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YOUR RESEARCHBrake time
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which rotors do i get
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Emergency brake shoes adjusted so rotor not rotate, then backed off 3 clicks, which is 2 clicks tighter than factory recommendation.
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When I did brakes last year I also used Sebro for the same reason.
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All,
Time for brakes.
The car is a 2000 C2, most probably not going to see any track time, although I would not rule it out completely.
I have all but settled on Akebono pads based on feedback from here.
The problem is which rotors do I get.
As the OEM rotors have last almost 70k miles, I would be happy with something that is a direct replacement.
On Pelican, the prices range from $69 Pagid to $130 Brembo, both items are for cross drilled front rotors.
There is a similar difference for the rears.
What say you?
next, the front calipers need to be rebuilt ( car has a pull to the left).
Any idea who does this?
I haven't checked with my local indy or dealer as of yet.
Thanx All.
Hmmm...I replaced my front rotors at about 110K miles, and I know they were never replaced before. Thus when it came time, I paid the Porsche tax and got OE Porsche rotors from Auto Atlanta. I figured I may never have to replace them again. And anyway, my wife says "buy the Porsche parts and let's move on". So I do. Works for me. Happy wife happy life.
I just did the rear brakes on my 00 C2 and picked up Brembo rotors and Pagid sensors off Rock Auto for about $160 all in, they have front rotors as well for just under $100 each.
I prefer the Sebro German made rotors. I've been less impressed with the quality of the inexpensive ones made in Asian countries. I figure brakes aren't the best place to cut corners on a sports car.
When I did brakes last year I also used Sebro for the same reason. I pretty much will only use Sebro, Balo and Zimmerman on my cars.
OP, check your brakes hoses at each wheel too. My car only had 38,000 miles but from age, my hoses were hard as rock.
Rock Auto for Pagid Rotors were my choice last year. Very low cost, and so far have held up for a year and about 7 track events. Plan to get through the rest of this track season and switch out if needed or not.
I'm happy with Meyle rotors and Textar OE pads on my car. Super cheap, and they perform fine on the track, which means they're better than fine on the street. No need to spend any more dollars!
Will probably go with Pagids from Rock Auto. All I need now is to see if my Indy will rebuild my calipers. Local dealer won’t.
if anyone knows someone in Indian River County, Florida, I would appreciate a heads up.
Sebro rotors get all four at once on ebay for 380 shipped
Hawk pads on amazon for 100-130 a pair
Stainless lines are super cheap for these cars too and the rubber lines on these cars are getting old
That was the best value to me. No brake dust. Quality parts
Very easy diy.
+1
I also installed Meyle rotors and Textar pads. My driving coach told me they would work well on the track and I didn't need to spend the extra money. After running these for a while, they will be trash and I will install a new set. I have two track days on them so far, and they have worked well. I did replace the fluid with Castrol SRF. My driving instructor took me in a couple of hot laps and he was driving the car at ten tenths. The brakes were hot and you could smell them after the laps, but they did not fade.
Ended up with Pagid rotors from Rockauto, Akenobo pads from advance auto, seals from Girodisc and lemon brake lines with some sort of spiral wrap, might be an upgrade, and Motul 5 brake fluid. Hopefully after a re-bleed I will good to go on my 2500 mi road trip.
I absolutely hate my Textar pads. They squeal like a pig in heat and it’s miserable to drive in normal traffic. I just did Lime Rock a few weeks ago, and while they were fine under track pressure and heat, every corner that required braking, a deafening squeal happened. I put them on both my C4S and X5 (weird coincidence that the brake wear light came on within a few weeks of each other) and am swapping them out after 400-500 miles for Porsche pads. Yes, I realize Brembo, Pagid, and Textar have all been OE suppliers, but the “off the shelf” Textars are absolute crap.
I called Pelican to see what their genuine Porsche pads they sell are, and they said Brembo. We’ll see what happens. Some Pagids’ back plates are stamped Textar, but from different things I’ve read online (so take it with a grain of salt), the stuff Textar makes for other companies are made with a different compound.
All I know is that they are embarrassingly loud and I can’t drive with the windows down and the roof opened. Braking power is good, but the noise is effing miserable.
Have you tried using a pressure washer to clean brake dust off? I've found that often eliminates whatever rare squeal I get.
I would be shocked if the Porsche boxed Textars are any different, but then again, I've been wrong more than I like to admit.
I don't think Brembo made the oem pads. At least for the 996 generation.
I just got out from under the car and have decided to replace most of the front suspension bits and Brakes all around....
im a bit OCD, but plan to look for zinc coated rotors (far less likely to rust quickly at the hub) and a Kevlar based pad (or low dust equivalent). I�d share what I find in my search this weekend but my application is a C4s so it�s not likely to help you much.
Just something to to think about as you shop.
I feel like I’ve tried everything, and while I haven’t tried that, I’m at the point where I don’t give a [beep] about these pads. I purchased the sets at the same time, but since the X5 is the daily, I put those on first. Squeal Central. Sent them back and got another set. Beveled the edges a bit, same thing. Obviously I can’t exchange them since I did that, but I had the C4S pads and decided to try them anyway. Same thing, except there was a track day thrown in there. I’m not even going to bother trying to exchange them. I’m going to take them to the gun range and blast the tar out of them. I just have to figure out which caliber I want to use and at what distance.
As I said before, take it with a grain of salt with respect to the difference in Textar supplied Porsche brakes versus off-the-shelf Textar pads. I will say there’s a rather large contingency of people that have had the same problems I’ve experienced, but there’s an equal amount of people that have had positive experiences. I know I will never purchase anything with a Textar stamp again.
EDIT - to clarify, the squealing with the C4S started before the track day.
Zimmerman coated rotors and Akebono Euro pads. Spray brake cleaner on new rotors, blue painter's tape over swept surface, high-temp metallic silver spray paint on hub and vanes (looks sharp and minimizes rust when coating is scratched/worn). Akebono Euros might groan a little when cold and just starting or stopping (haven't yet changed rear and whatever is back there definitely groans), and produce very little brake dust.
Ended up with Pagid rotors, Akebono pads, Stainless brake lines and had my wrench rebuild the front calipers and replace brake fluid with Motul. All good so far.
Well, looks like I'm putting something Textar on my car after all. I received my Porsche-boxed pads today. Fronts are Jurids, rears are Textar. Hopefully they use the Porsche factory compound. I like Pelican, but I'm really ticked at them. I called them specifically to see if they carried the Brembo or Jurid made Porsche pads, was told Brembo, and got Textars. I don't know, but if these squeal, I'm switching out the pads again, and this time I'll replace my new Zimmerman rotors (new rotors when initially put on the Textars) and try the Serbos.
On the pull, don't assume it's the brakes causing it. Could be tires, alignment, or tire air pressure. Suggest you do this in order before committing to rebuilding the calipers:
1. Make sure the tire pressure in the two front tires are exact.
2. Swap front tires, does the pull move? If so, one of the tires are bad.
2. Are the front tires worn that show alignment is off? If so, get it aligned.
If no change when you're done, then it *might* be the calipers binding, but I doubt it. That's not a common failure point for Porsche's.
2.
Rear brakes before and after. Zimmerman coated rotors and Akebono Euro pads. Sprayed high-temp metallic silver paint on rotor hub and vanes to further reduce rust and look sharp. On test drive ceramic pads were silent no groans, no dust, and not high friction seems have to push pedal a little harder.
Replaced brake sensors and got brake wear fault. Found sensor connector to vehicle wiring not fully pushed in, and retainer clip off posts it rotates on. Pushed in sensor wires and reseated retainer clip, brake wear fault extinguished.
Emergency brake shoes adjusted so rotor not rotate, then backed off 3 clicks, which is 2 clicks tighter than factory recommendation. Seemed really loose at 5 clicks.
Future project overhaul and paint calipers, and paint wheel well satin black.
Looks like I�m getting ready to order Zimmerman rotors and Akebono pads for all 4 corners. My current rotors are probably original. Only trying to figure out if I need to replace all 4 sensors (they were done 3 years ago).
Do I need the brake hardware kit and new caliper bolts? Rotor set screws?
I�m probably going to do the dampers as well as high temp fluid and hope for the occasional track day.
Porsche says the Caliper bolts are one time use....
The brake hardware kit is not a requirement but nice if you want to get rid of the rusty spring. It’s expensive though.
Rotor set screws can be reused in my experience as long as you don’t strip them getting them out. PB blaster your friend here.
Pad springs are expensive but I found this Ate part that fits certain pad variants (those where the stock pad spring doesn't):
ATE (13.0460-0280.2)
I'd replace the bolts for the calipers. Not so much for strength reasons but for the virgin anti-corrosion coating on new bolts.
Dang, $1203 just in parts, tax, shipping. Pelican. Probably could have skipped a couple items, such as dampers and some other hardware, but it still would have been $1000�
I've just fitted that kit where you put the 350mm disks on the front with the standard callipers , helps with heat dissipation plus looks ace with bigger disks! Just waiting for my callipers to come back from the refurbisher, will post pics !
I didn�t even check how much life these rotors had in them due to thickness. The rust is insane. These were really the only rusty parts of my car�
99 C2 front brake rotor
On a working car, I really really r e a l l y REALLY don't understand or comprehend how a rotor could be that rusty on a car. Please PLEASE tell me that the car sat in a corn field for the last five years.....
No clue. I always keep my car in a heated garage. I do DD it, winter included, and I did track the car a few times, but it�s crazy there�s this much rust. Rust was literally falling off in little pools. Scratching my head. There�s no other rust on my car anywhere. Maybe these are original rotors.
On my car if I leave it set for more than a week or two rust develops on the rotor surfaces, especially if it is damp weather. After driving for a few miles it is bascially gone.
The point I was trying to make was on a working DD car, the disc brake pad would be making contact with the rotor and scrubbing that rust off. I suspect that the inner brake pad is not making contact with the rotor, thus meaning the caliper pistons are not working or are stuck. Maybe time to rebuild the calipers, pistons and seals.
I'm with Joe on this... wonder if something up with that caliper.
Looking at the very edge of the rotor, looks like rust has been slightly rubbed off compared to the rest of the rotor...
Hows the other side look ? The rest of the discs ?
That line is where the end of the pad stops. I just finished the brakes and here�s what they look like:
Driver Front
Passenger Front
Passenger Rear
Driver Rear
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