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Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHWhats in Your Oil Pan? + Stretched Bolts
Leading reported evidence
Clean but one snapped so will need
Suggestion or failed attempt
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Suggestion
All of mine came out clean but one snapped so will need to be drilled out and retapped.
Leading evidence: 'Clean but one snapped so will need' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Clean but one snapped so will need' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Suggestion · Original poster
Regardless, it was less that the number that was recommended by him.
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I dropped the oil pan cover & found very little. A couple of black rubbery chunks. I'm guessing from the 5900 sealant. There is a red half moon shaped piece of hard plastic. It's been in other threads, but I didn't see where it was identified. Any ideas?
Overall not a lot to see. Clean oil with very little metallic material. I'm pleased it wasn't full of junk.
A couple of the oil cover bolts look stretched. The pitch of the thread changes towards the head. Should these be replaced after each use?
Two specs on the bottom right. Both rubber
Hard red plastic piece, half moon, & chunk of rubber.
The pitch of the threads looks wider 3/4 of the way down.
I don't think they would stretch as there is very little torque needed when installing the sump cover. I've seen them over - torqued so I suppose it's possible. All of mine came out clean but one snapped so will need to be drilled out and retapped.
Reddish brown hard plastic is the vario cam pads from the 5 chain engines. I found 7 or 8 pieces the first time I dropped my sump. How are your camshaft deviation numbers?
What mine looked like at 30K
That bolt looks stretched to me, replace them. But if you really want to know, measure the diameter with a dial caliper or mic, the diameter will be smaller in the stretched area.( near the head)
I always order replacement sump, water pump, thermostat, valve cover, and header bolts when I remove them.
That way if they break upon removal, I don�t have to worry about waiting for replacements.
I always install new bolts.
It rarely increases the cost of the job significantly.
I keep a bunch of these Porsche M96 bolts on hand.
I also have a bunch of BMW N54 bolts.
Any other vehicles, I just order before the job.
I agree with you that the bolt would not stretch given the low torque spec. I was very surprised to find it on several bolts.
Are you doing this project now?
Best,
I'm in a 996.2 so I've got a 3 chain motor. I guess that half moon plastic piece is still part of the chain guide? I'm really happy I only found one piece!
I forget my exact cam deviation, but I checked it and it was a medium number. Does Jake recommend 6 degrees, or is it 11? Regardless, it was less that the number that was recommended by him.
Thx!
Agreed. I'm big on replacing hardware and that's what I will do here. I was just surprised to find a different pitch in the middle of the bolt. Wondered if this was part of the plan, normal for used ones, or something odd. Seems like it's an odd thing to occur especially with the low torque spec.
Best,
For me this has now turned into what is the correct bolt for the oil cover. A part number suggested in this thread calls for an M6 x 16 mm. The ones I took out are measuring 22 mm +. All are longer, by different degrees, than a stattndard 20 mm.
Incidentally an M6 nut only threads down to the stretch point. Then stops. N+o surprises there. The head shows an 8.8 tensile strength. Really odd.
I'm guessing the block is threaded & can accept a 20 + mm bolt hoping there are not other issues on this topic.
Someone strongarmed those bolts or put them in with an impact. The torque spec for the M6's on these engines is 10 Newton-Meters or 7.5 foot pounds. That's about a two-finger pull on a 1/4" ratchet.
People get inch pounds and foot pounds confused and over torque bolts all the time.
That, or they think an uggahduggah or two is what it needs.
never overtorque bolts in or on an engine!
Water pump, oil pan, valve cover, rod, main, head...these bolts all need to be properly torqued!
Brakes, suspension, seat, seatbelt bolts are also important bolts in my opinion.
Nah! The only important ones are the head bolts and the rotating assembly bolts/nuts. The rest are not that vital. If you wrench long enough, you get a feel for what is enough for these other non vital fasteners.
