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THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHDYI Clutch-Trouble removing transmission
Leading reported evidence
Replace own clutch & ims
Suggestion or failed attempt
No successful repair reported for this finding.
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0
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1
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Suggestion · Original poster
I decided to replace my own clutch & IMS, which I understood through extensive research, could be done without dropping the engine.
Leading evidence: 'Replace own clutch & ims' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Replace own clutch & ims' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Suggestion · Original poster
I also wonder how on earth I will be tightening the same bolt to the specified torque settings, as neither of my torque wrenches will fit in the available space.
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Suggestion
I used a 16mm box end wrench that I could get up in there.
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Suggestion · Original poster
I also wonder how on earth I will be tightening the same bolt to the specified torque settings, as neither of my torque wrenches will fit in the available space.
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Rennlist: 1 discussions
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Outcome without a verified action link
Yes, dropping the engine a couple of inches gave me the clearance I needed, it worked out well!
I decided to replace my own clutch & IMS, which I understood through extensive research, could be done without dropping the engine.
I struggled for a couple of hours today to try to remove the upper 16mm bolt where the transmission connects to the engine. Could someone please let me know how to remove this bolt???
I also wonder how on earth I will be tightening the same bolt to the specified torque settings, as neither of my torque wrenches will fit in the available space.
I appreciate any suggestions anyone might be able to offer.
Thank you!
The first time I got it was with 3 ft of extensions with universal. The times after I lowered the whole assembly down and I could reach around it like giving the transmission a hug.
Also make sure to put the right lengths back in the right spot. If you put a longer one in a shallow hole you can break the bell housing or worse push SWARF into the chain case.
Instead of a universal, you may find a "wobble" adapter easier to use. The trick is to keep the various extensions as straight as possible .This prevents the adapter 'binding' .Once you have the bolt broken loose ,it is easy to remove.
While you might be able to do it without dropping the engine, it makes life so much easier to drop the engine 1-2" to give you the clearance to reach up there.
When you guys say drop the engine 1-2 inches, do you mean you loosen the motor mounts right up until the nut is close to the end or remove it completely?
No need to loosen the motor mounts. As the instructions stated, it's important to support the engine and transmission when removing the transmission (so once the transmission mount is loosened). This is because the engine will drop about 2 to 3 inches and hit the bottom frame of the car.
By temporarily "dropping" or lowering the engine and transmission together until the engine touched the frame, I was able to gain access to the upper bolt. I didn't have to loosen any other mounts but the mount at the front of the transmission.
Tranny, pressure plate, and clutch are now off the car! On to the IMS and RMS....
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