What is this noise at idle? Vid inside

01/98 C2 I've cleaned the ICV, MAF, TB, inspected oil fill tube for cracks, TB boot for cracks... I have not tried changing the spark plugs or the coils, and I know my post-cat o2 sensors are close to dead, but that's about it. The car has thrown a 1539 code in the past but has come and gone. No loss in performance and the car doesn't miss or do anything weird through the powerband. Vid attached below - hit the link to download. To me, it doesn't sound like it's missing, rather something loose etc. It is intermittent and sometimes doesn't happen at all. Car does not burn oil.

Could be chains or IMSB, but you can also remove the serpentine belt to determine if it�s one of the accessories or pulleys going bad. Could also be something loose, like exhaust. Might want to check the oil filter for debris.

Quotes source post: 18306758

Changed oil yesterday - filter was spotless and no signs of small shavings or brown/reddish chain pads - I cut the filter open too. I dropped the sump a month or two ago and the pickup screen was clear as well.

Found this thread: https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...at-idle-2.html May be my torque converter...? I don't know if anyone remembers, but I made a thread after my car was improperly front-towed with the rear wheels on the ground. It was not in gear but the park brake was on. After it was towed I posted about oil leaking where the trans case meets the block. That oil seepage has since went away and I chalked it up to trans fluid leaking out (?) since the car was at that angle with the butt down/front up. This noise developed a week or two after the towing incident too... Am I making sense or no? Edit: this guy's car was a tiptronic so I guess I don't have a torque converter?

Ahh, I didn�t realize it was an auto. Good point, you may be into something.

Another thought - There was another member that commented on Variocam (bank 2). Found this video: You Tube (would skip to 11:35) I've gotten misfire codes in the past, specifically for bank 2... but my car doesn't miss except for idle... This guy's car misses below 3K, so maybe it's only a matter of time until it gets worse for me? His fix is pretty insane - basically to just drive it hard. You can either clean the solenoids, buy new ones, or try and get them moving with hard driving (assuming they are stuck). But this would explain my problem. I've also experienced that metallic tick he talks about. Code 1539 has come and gone (variocam bank 2) as mentioned in the OP, so maybe there is something to be said to the driving aspect. I am admittedly in a period where I haven't been driving the car as hard as I should, so guess beating on it to see if it improves wouldn't hurt? I've read my cam deviations and they are static at 6 for bank 1 and 10 for bank 2, indicative of the car not getting a proper reading, or can't get one, either because something's wrong or because it's a really early 01/98 3.4L (I don't know) -

Cam deviation numbers that are off by that much indicates a problem. That�s a value of 4 between them, and 6 between the crank, so both are troublesome. Have the tensioner pads been inspected or replaced on this car?

Quotes source post: 18308134

Negative - not sure the history of them. I've also read that if cam deviations are static when read, like mine are, it's indicative of a bad reading (or no reading at all?). I'm also unsure because of my car being very, very early (vin ending in 0083) so don't know if that has something to do with it. I've also read (lol) that bank 1 is the only side that reports an actual cam reading. All in all am a bit lost - most annoying part is there isn't really a "clear" next step other than to start throwing some money at the car.

Quotes source post: 18308297

Is the car US/Canada or RoW? If US/CAN, could it possibly have a RoW DME flash? Does starting the car require you to press the clutch pedal? Does the SAI pump operate? If no to either/both of these questions then you have a RoW DME (or flash) and a RoW DME only gives cam deviation for bank 1.

The early engines have a known weak point with those pads wearing out, but it�s usually pretty obvious in that you see brown or black bits in the oil filter. The tensioner pads are brown, but turn black over time due to coloration from the oil. There�s a good chance your pads are worn. I had to do pads on my 99, both sides, top and bottom. The new pad design is better and lasts longer, but I don�t remember when Porsche fixed that issue.

Quotes source post: 18306789

Seems to be some confusion in this thread whether your car has manual or automatic transmission. You might want to add that info to the spec you've given. If MT then indeed no torque convertor. Same goes for mileage. Use the 'actual values' option in durametric to track the cam deviations on both banks and see if they change when they switch (can't remember at which rpm that happens but it does so twice between idle and redline).

VarioCam activation: 1 - Engine oil temperature between -3�C and 133�C 2 - Engine speed > 1,300 rpm 3 - Throttle opening > 5% or 1 - Engine oil temperature > 133�C 2 - Engine speed > 1,480 rpm 3 - Throttle opening > 3.9% The ground potential is deactivated by the DME control unit (VarioCam deactivated) if: Engine speed > 5,120 rpm"

Quotes source post: 18310072

True, my car is a MT. I have an Autel Maxidas and read deviations through that. Bank 1 always at 6, bank 2 always at 10 (I've seen it hit 12, but again it's mostly static and is not dependent on how I drive). I think I'm going to drive it hard after replacing the solenoid's seal - bank 2's leaks pretty significantly - bank 1's not a drop. If it has a leak at the seal, would I be wrong in thinking that by keeping the oil more contained with a new seal, it will somehow unclog it and get it moving again? I have fresh oil in the car too. If that doesn't work I guess just try and actuate the solenoid w/ a battery. If that works, test power coming from female port for a wiring issue? Nonetheless it seems like this is a variocam bank 2 problem, despite having bought new coil packs, plugs, and o2 sensors that I'll be putting on this weekend. All in all best thing about this is that I think I've finally figured out why I get that intermittent metallic tick at idle too (going off that video I pasted here) so hopefully can hit two birds with one stone. Edit: quick question but is 10 as a cam deviation reading considered aggressive, or just "off" ? Would that point to the actuator being stuck in the activated position at idle?

I don't know anymore man - drove the thing hard last night and this morning and the rumble has gone away. It's also idling smoother - virtually no shake under my butt or when I touch the passenger seat. I honestly just don't think I've been driving it correctly. I usually shift around 2.5-3.5K but have been winding it out just a bit more to ~4-5K from 1-3 gear. It's certainly more aggressive but even the powerband feels smoother and the car seems to like it. I think I will just drive it and see what happens. The solenoid is definitely either leaking oil or has a bad seal, so will replace the seal first. While I'm there I may try activating the variocam with a battery and/or testing the amperage on the female connector just to see if it's all good. I think it is though, just based on driving it and the power - it certainly doesn't feel like anything is wrong with it. I'm a now ~8 month owner of the car so still getting used to it too. The PO was a blood relative on my Father's side who owned it for 7 years - in those 7 years he drove it a total of 10K miles. His advice to me when buying it was to drive it - he had similar issues with 1539 popping up when the car was babied and/or sat and said it went away whenever he consistently drove it. It may just be sensitive / on its way out but I guess only time will tell.

Why not read the cam deviation numbers again to get some objective data behind your experience? That's what I would do.

The noise is coming from the trans (clutch area), so forget everything I�ve said� I took a video and will post tomorrow. starting to think it�s from the time the car was front towed. I noticed some oil dripping from where the trans case meets the block but it stopped and never came back I guess that was actually trans fluid or what? can anyone chime in on the noise now that we know it�s coming from the trans/clutch area? It goes away when I press in the clutch pedal, so the chatter occurs only when the clutch and flywheel are married.

I don't know if you are prepared to hear the news or not, but it's all fixable... The noise is a classic sign of a bad DMF ( Dual Mass Flywheel) , the noise is the transmision gears backlash being exploited due to the DMF not doing it's job. Same thing happens when people install Single Mass Flywheels, they end up with the clatter from the trans gear backlash at idle... While the Tech has the trans out, it would be a good time to replace the complete clutch assembly along with a new RMS ( probably where your leak from the trans/eng joint is coming from) and a " LN IMS Solution" if there isn't already one in there......oh and a UAOS.. I hate to tell you also but the leak from the vario-cam is hardly ever the "seal" it is usually the solenoid its self leaking from where the wires come out.. and requires the cam cover be removed, and if that isn't bad enough just the solenoid cost about $500... Code P1539...check the vario-cam "actual values" for smooth movement/advancement up and down as RPM are increased and reduced..If one is not moving or is slow to return back to low, check the oil sump and filter for "green O-ring bits" a clear sign the "actuator" has failed..yes it also requires the cam cover removed at is expensive,, cost $1k just for the actuator.. Good luck and like I said, it's all fixable...

Quotes source post: 18314039

Edit - thanks, I attached the video I mentioned just in case you think of something else. I don't know what a bad flywheel sounds like, but would imagine it'd be constant? The rattle disappears with clutch pedal depressed... Only thing moving with clutch pedal depressed is pressure plate and flywheel - noise goes away everytime it's depressed so just wondering if that proves not flywheel. Trans input shaft thoughts? See my comments about being front-towed a month or two ago by my city's parking authority (long story) and having rear wheels on the ground / oil seepage from what (I thought) was the main seal or IMSB. I don't think it was either and was in fact the input shaft seal to the trans. It hasn't leaked in that spot since. I have not yet checked/filled the trans fluid either, assuming the leak was at the input shaft's seal. Car was in neutral when towed though... Edit - what im realizing is no matter what it is, the trans needs to come out so will prob update this thread in future https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/por...4aAkJrEALw_wcB