Ruptured fuel line -- which are the right replacement parts?

I did something dumb and caused a small hole in a fuel line close to where it connects to the tank, in the location of the arrow: I understand that replacing the entire fuel line is a big job, so it seems splicing in a new section, or adding a replacement for the section that connects to the tank, is the way to go. But I can't find any information on the usual parts sites, or in the factory manual, about this part number or its specs. Is it just some kind of generic fuel line? Do I just cut it apart (observing appropriate safety precautions like releasing pressure, catching leaking fluids, plugging any lines while the system is open, etc) and take the section to a random parts store? I would much rather have specific recommendations for which replacement pieces, including splice fittings and clamps, to buy. Anyone who knows?

I would not attempt to slice it myself, I would replace the entire line. These plastic lines don’t splice well. A failed splice could cause a fire. Replace the line. You can find the part number in the 996 PET.

Thanks. Yes, on reflection I agree it would be just to replace the whole line. But it seems like there is no info online on how to do it, so I would need to take it to my mechanic. Sounds like you feel even a temporary repair so I can drive there woudl carry risk?

U r not gonna fix that leak in place to make it driveable. U need to remove the fuel tank and replace the line or remove the line for a repair. There is not enough room to make the repair in place.

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Argh, the fuel tank needs to come out to replace the line? I wish that wasn't so. Seems surprising too, given that the fuel and return lines connect to the top of the tank. I guess I don't understand how they are routed from there to the underside of the car... Also, just to help me understand, I know it's not as good as replacing the whole line, but why couldn't something like this: ...fitted with appropriate clamps, work as a temporary fix? Is the pressure just too high? Or the existing hose material not flexible enough to go onto a connection piece like in the above pic? Not doubting what you are saying, just trying to learn as much as possible from this miserable experience. (:

Thats not how u repair that kind of fuel line. U cant use barbs and a clamp. They do make special fittlings for the repair but u generally need to put the line in boiling water to get it flexible enough to slide over the barbs. look up nylon fuel repair kits. The fuel line is roughted above and behind the tank so yes it needs to come out. Its not that hard to pull the tank but im sure a mechanic will be pricey.

Ok, I�ll look into what it takes to drop the tank and see if it looks like something I can attempt. BTW, I see lots of options offered for repairing nylon fuel lines, including these quick-disconnect couplings, but also barbs . Makes sense that anything with barbs only has a chance when heating up the nylon end in boiled water as has been mentioned. I�d still be interested in knowing the ID and OD of this fuel line on the 996, it�s tempting to try a temporary repair.

Wow, the FSM procedure for dropping the fuel tank is quite involved: Empty tank through the fuel level sensor opening, remove filler neck Remove "all coolant lines"!! I assume this means the lines going to the radiators and the heater core? Could be a good time to replace them, but that already sounds like a lot of work. Detach the steering universal joint and remove steering gear from the front crossmember ! Lower the crossmember by ~6" (supported by jack) Now the fuel tank can come out ... and presumably the fuel lines replaced. Might as well replace the fuel pump and the fuel filter too for all that work. Put eveything back together. Steering, many coolant hoses, the whole front fuel system. Most of that sounds messy, and I haven't done any of those steps before. :-(

Yea my perspective is skewed. It is a far amount of work but nothing complicated.

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I'm willing to put in the time. No special tools required other than hose clamp pliers and something to hold the steering wheel in place, it seems. Plus, the car isn't drivable right now, so I can't really make it worse! It does feel scary to tackle so many things at the same time. When I inevitably make a misstep somewhere, will I be able to figure out which of the 1000 steps I messed up? Is this doable without a lift or pit?

Yeh its easier then pulling a motor. If u can empty the tank its very light. U just need to get it up high enough in jack stands to slide the tank out. I think the only special tool u will need is a tie rod remover and it can be rented.

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This type of fuel line made of PA12 is offered in several dimensions denoted by external diameter and wall thickness. By the looks of it it's either 12x1 (all millimeter) or 10x1. For a temporary repair I myself would consider getting one size bigger than installed, cut a piece of tubing off, slice it along its length and glue it to the line with the puncture. Use an appropriate glue for PA12, ideally gasoline proof. Or, after emptying that hose (dont know whether it carries fuel under pressure as a feed line, or return line or vent line?) use a soldering iron and some extra PA12 to melt it shut. Do at your own risk, have a helper at hand with fire extinguisher, do the work outside, wear the appropriate personal protection, etc, etc.

Google dorman fuel line connector .They make a push on connectors in various sizes for nylon fuel line .Yes they work have been using them for 8 years.Not sure you have enough room to install but worth a shot .

This thread demonstrates the beauty of working on cars that are 20 years or more old - there are very few scenarios that haven�t been encountered and conquered in one way or another. Obviously, when dealing with fuel you�ve got to be extremely careful to be sure there�s no leakage. On the plus side, your leak isn�t in the engine bay, and it�s in a spot where once you repair it (if you decide to repair rather than replace) you can observe it under pressure over some period of time to determine whether it�s leaking or not (I wouldn�t put it back together and star driving it unless I�d determined that it hadn�t leaked under pressure for at least a week - with intermittent starts during that time). Good luck