Axle nut torque when halfshaft splines are lubricated?

Typically torque values given are for dry torque and when we are talking about axle nut that value is 340 ft-lb / 480nm. Now based on the Bentley manual you are supposed to put some lubrication on those splines on that halfshaft. When I removed my halfshaft there was some grease on it so I guess that how it is supposed to be Now the question is as generally when any lubrication is used you are supposed to reduce the amount of torque by - as a rule of thumb - 20% or so (depending on the torque coefficient factor of that lubricant). So if I put there some copper grease (HT anti-seize) should I use lower torque value? If so how much ? 80% of that 340 is around 270 ft-fb. If you have had some lubrication on those splines have you still used 340 ft-lb or some lower value? That axle nut is "somewhat" important part so naturally I don't want that to come loose but neither to over torque it and break the axle nut threads.

Quotes source post: 16906882

Don't grease the threads, use a new nut, torque to 340 foot pounds. IMO the nut should be good for over 1000 ft/lb before the threads strip so I'd never go less than the spec 340 ft/lb even if I chose to grease the threads.

Thanks - so the Bentley manual is wrong here ? Because it really says that those splines should be lubricated (using Optimoly HT or equiv.) And also I noticed some grease (don't know what exactly what that was but it looked some blackish thing although the car is 20y old - don't know if that grease was added there later on) on mine when I removed that. Just to clarify - I'm talking about those splines on the halfshaft and not the threaded area at the end of the shaft where the nut is attached. I was inclined to think as well that it should be torqued to 340 ft/lb regardless of if it's lubricated or not but I'm a bit new here so I'm trying to avoid obvious mistakes

Quotes source post: 16907039

Do grease the splines, that's to limit fretting corrosion. I use lithium based anti-seize paste. Don't grease the threads.

Quotes source post: 16907039

I very lightly brush a thin coat of anti-seize on the axle threads & the nut threads. My torque wrench only goes to 180 Ft/Lbs so I torque the nut to that & then do final torque with my breaker bar inside a cheater pipe.I broke 3 Craftsman 1/2" extentions this way. Finally bought a Snap-On & still have it 10 years later..Wayne Demsey of Pelican Parts shared the formula for figuring how to tourqe based on the length of your lever, but I can't find it now on the site.

I wonder if someone makes a torque multiplier for Porsche. I have one for my VW axle nuts which need 270 ftlbs. It multiplies by 9 so you only need to set a torque of 30 ftlbs to reach the needed 270 on the axle nut. Since my Manxter buggy uses a Ford bolt pattern, I recently modified it to work with the Ford 5 bolt pattern. It comes already set up for both the late VW 4 bolt pattern and the early VW wide 5 pattern. They work awesome. No need to have the wheel on the car and blocked or finding another way to keep the hub from turning. Just bolt it to the rotor and torque while sitting on a stool or chair. You Tube

Greasing the splines has nothing to do with the torque of the thread/nut.

Quotes source post: 16907339

Torque multiplier ought to work, it's not specific to any particular vehicle. It just needs to fit the bolt pattern. This is how I do it. 3/4" drive socket, 3/4" extension, and a 3/4" drive torque cube which shows the applied torque. Prop the extension up on a jack stand. Use a 3/4" slide bar, not a breaker bar, and a four-foot pipe. Torque until the cube thing beeps.

Quotes source post: 16907476

Yes, bolt pattern is what I was referring to. I welded on a piece of plate steel to my VW torque multiplier and added bolt holes to line up with the Ford bolt pattern on my Manxter. I could add the Porsche bolt pattern also as long as the holes don't overlap. So if the Porsche torque is 320ftlbs, you only need a 3/8 drive torque wrench set to 36 ftlbs to achieve the 320ftlbs. I try not to do much heavy lifting in my old age.

There are relatively low cost torque multupliers that u can use in anythjng. I have a 3-1 that i bought on amazon. I just used it to put down a crush sleave on a 14 bolt differential and ti remove a harmonic balancer bolt on a honda 3.5l motor. Neither would have been possible with out it. Also i agree with the comments above, antiseize the splines not the threads. The 14 bolt.

That last picture looks ... dangerous. For those of you who do want to tackle the axle nut, either 1) Buy a 600 lb-ft torque wrench , or 2) Use a 3 foot long pipe on 3/4 inch breaker bar, and an analog bathroom scale to torque to the right value. I bought a 600 lb-ft torque wrench. Amen.

Quotes source post: 16907930

Meh. Its up on a 10k, 2 post lift with an axle stand supporting the rear. I should have built a "locking" plate and welded a bar to it, but the pipe wrench worked for holding the yoke. I set the torque wrench to 250ft-lbs which means 750ft-lbs to the pinion nut. I do have a 750 ft-lb wrench but its hard to get the leverage u need to get it to that level. The nice thing about the multipler it it locks in place with a counter rotation so it doesnt try to flip what u r working on. Case in point in that pic, with the yoke locked down the torque multiplier rotates up into the leaf spring while i pull the torque wrench down. This counter rotation makes it so im not pulling the truck off the lift. I hope thst makes sense?

I drove my car to a local big truck repair shop and did the final torque with a borrowed torque wrench. I had previously tightened the nut with my 1/2" wrench and a pipe of the appropriate length with me standing on it, but the end result was not nearly enough torque when I later used the borrowed BIG wrench.