Resonance Tube Vacuum Leak

Looking at my ST and LT fuel trims I figured I had a small vacuum leak somewhere. I smoked my engine and found that the resonance tube was leaking from where the resonance flap mounts inside the tube. See picture, it looks like a bolt but it's the other side of the flap. Has anyone changed the resonance tube? If so, were you able to change it without removing either the left or right intake manifold? I can remove the throttle body tube by tilting it out, wanted to see if that was possible for the resonance tube as well. Also, as a heads up, while smoking my engine I found that the manifold adapter (part number: 996-110-151-52) was leaking pretty badly as well. I duct taped it for now until I could get a new one in. There's a plastic washer inside the elbow that shrinks with age so you have to replace the full adapter and not a gasket. Cheap part, under $30. Thanks in advance! Smoke was coming out of round bolt looking area. (Other side of the resonance flapper)

You can remove the resonance tube without removing/loosening the intake distributors. Just remove the same as the front tube. Good info on the leaks, these leaks are from wear/high mileage which we will probably see more of..

I smoke tested a 986 not too long ago and found a leak in the same place. That might not be a rare place to find a leak. At least on the Boxster it was a MUCH easier fix than a 996.

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I received my new resonance tube but am having trouble getting the old one out. Any tips on getting the old one out and new one in? On the throttle body intake tube the left gasket can be moved over to make room to tilt it out. Neither gasket moves on the resonance tube to make room to tilt it out. I'd really like to avoid loosening up the intake distributors if I don't have to. Thanks!

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Tighten all 4 clamps on the resonance tube, then loosen the outer clamps only and rotate the tube to break the seal on the rubber boots, then tighten the outer clamps and loosen the inner clamps and rotate the tube. This will loosen the seal on the boots so you can slide them over far enough to wiggle the tube out.

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I was able to break the rubber boots free on the tube and the intake distributor. The tube moves over a bit but not enough to clear the other side. The rubber boots have that thick band in the middle and it prevents the tube from moving side to side much. I really appreciate the input. I'll keep working at it, hopefully I can eventually slide then tilt it out, worst case I'll loosen the intake distributors a bit. Thanks for the help!

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I had a big problem removing the rear plenum also. I got it to break free from the rubber boots but couldn�t move the boots over that much. loosen the hose clamps until they are nearly open. Then PULL HARD on the left side. It will come out. When you reinstall clean the intake, plenum, and boots with soapy water. Will make life a lot easier.

I finished changing out the resonance tube today. I ended up removing the screws from the right intake distributor. I tried for a bit to get it out without removing the screws and just couldn't get it to clear either end. Ultimately, I think it was easier to loosen the distributor screws, lean it back then remove and install the new tube. I didn't have to lower the engine to remove the screws. The back screw on the right side can be reached from under the car. Thanks for all the input!

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I just got finished smoking mine and found this same manifold adaptor leaking. It seems the pipe just slips into the adaptor (elbow part), with a little sleeve held up by a grey collar. I don’t see how it could possibly seal tight? What am I missing? I wrapped the pipe in teflon tape and reinserted it to fix the leak about 80%, and will order the new part, but is there supposed to be an o-ring or seal around the pipe? (I know there is an o-ring where the manifold adaptor mounts to the intake, I”m referring to the connection to the pipe) This is the collar Fit’s into the “bowl” part (as it sits it looks like my father’s old pipe )of the adaptor. Looks sort of gold or yellow colour in this picture.

Honestly, I thought the same thing as you. That I was missing a seal or something else because I didn't think the hard plastic would make a tight enough seal. But the new part seals perfectly fine and there are no additional seals or o-rings on that end of the elbow. I smoke tested my engine after and there was 0 smoke coming from the elbow after replacing the elbow and o-ring. Definitely replace the o-ring on the other side at the same time. I tried to reuse the o-ring and it leaked with the new elbow, it shrunk over the years and didn't make a tight fit against the new elbow.

Thanks Taverty