12 captured repliesDiscussion pagination complete · Source accounts, not a confirmed diagnosis
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YOUR RESEARCHStranded no start
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Check fuses c1, c2 and c4 first
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No successful repair reported for this finding.
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Leading evidence: 'Check fuses c1, c2 and c4 first' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Check fuses c1, c2 and c4 first' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Suggestion · Original poster
I would like to herebfrom those that have changed the reference sensor.
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Suggestion · Original poster
Is it like my old 944 in that you have to set the depth to a specification or is there only one depth setting?
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12 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
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Ok. First issue with flawless history to date. Currently stranded car won't start. Cranks rapidly without firing. First thought is fuel. Then remember threads with moisture affecting coil packs. It is raining here in San Diego and made a food run that is now an adventure. Would moisture cause a complete no for issue or just rough running? I would think it would run poorly at least? No? Waiting for tow. What do you recommend for troubleshooting. Thanks all.
Check fuses c1, c2 and c4 first. Do you hear the fuel pump priming if you turn the key to the last position before crank? If it's coils, at least it should try to start. Does the tach needle bounce when you crank?
Glad to be faster than the tow truck haha
Sounds like injectors and coils didn't get power so your cylinders were not flooded with fuel and can start right up once power is restored. Just my hypothesis for now...
I would like to herebfrom those that have changed the reference sensor. Difficulty. Tips. Hints. Is it like my old 944 in that you have to set the depth to a specification or is there only one depth setting? Thx in advance.
Yes, no tach bounce means no crank signal, which could mean no power to the sensor, bad wiring, or the sensor itself. Afaik, there's no gap set needed and there are no shims.
Keep in mind there are may be other possibilities such as a bad relay, bad wiring. There are the fuel injectors/coils relay and the MFI relay.
Will need more involved diagnostic if it happens again. Would be quite difficult to pinpoint if it happens intermittently.
Thanks ahsai. Started fine this morning. I saw tach bounce. I could hear fuel pump prime. I wish there was something definitive. I hate driving and worrying about it dying at a light or leaving me stranded. Oh well. Till the next time as cars rarely "fix" themselves. Thx again
Yea, I know the feeling. I always pause at the last ignition position before cranking for a few seconds to hear the fuel pump and read the oil level reading before cranking. Any abnormality should then be obvious. If the fuel pump primes and yet the engine doesn't fire up, most likely the coils and injectors (they share the same power source and fuse C2) are not getting power and that could be the fuse(s), the two relays I mentioned, or the DME not firing (bad crank sensor signal).
+1, same reason my car had major misfiring issues until the main engine connector was cleaned up. A nonfunctional crank position sensor can do this also and it is fairly easy to replace if you can jack the car up. It's on the crankcase behind the rear driver's side wheel. I got to the point where I replaced it in 15 minutes start to finish while diagnosing my issues. They do go bad but rarely, and the part is a bit expensive (over $100).
Given that jiggling the C2 fuse apparently fixed your problem, it implies there are loose connections, a flaky fuse, or corrosion in your system. You might want to dig a little deeper. I very highly recommend this contact cleaner that is the only one I've ever found that actually works: DeoxIT DN5. It's pricy but worth 10 - 100x its price in saved mechanic labor (not exaggerating). Spray tiny bits into both sides of connectors after taking them apart first.
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