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YOUR RESEARCHBuying a 2002 996 Turbo with 195k on the clock
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Use car
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Read evidence and context
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The Turbo is just a used car so you have to subject the car to a thorough used car check out.
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Suggestion
While you walk around the car checking body panel fits/finish keep your ears tuned to the engine for any odd/scary sounds.
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Suggestion
Put the tranny in each gear in turn and give it some throttle then back out to check for a gear pop out.
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Suggestion
He should check the turbos for any external oil leaks and for any internal (seal) leaks.
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First off. 100K not 195K
Is anyone driving one with a 100k miles on it?
Couple of questions.
1. Price?
2. What to look for as far as failure points?
3. Thanks!
My 03 Turbo has 125K miles on it.
Can't help with price, that is I have not kept abreast of market prices.
What I usually recommend is visiting the sites that offer up used car values and plugging the car's numbers and seeing what the wholesale/trade in, private party, and retail prices are and using that as some sort of starting point.
The car is worth what someone will pay for it and about all we know for sure is someone will pay wholesale (or a bit below). I like to add how much over this is between the buyer and the seller.
Failure points? Everything. The Turbo is just a used car so you have to subject the car to a thorough used car check out. This involves visiting the car cold and verifying the CEL comes on before the engine starts but goes off when the engine fires/begins to run.
While you walk around the car checking body panel fits/finish keep your ears tuned to the engine for any odd/scary sounds. Now these engines can sound a bit gruff at cold start but as they warm up the engine smoothes out and RPMs drop.
Have the seller take you on a 15 mile test ride that gives him a chance to demo the car as you intend to use it: around town, blvd. cruising, and some hard acceleration/hard braking runs when safe. Pay attention to everything. How the engine sounds, pulls, behaves after a hard run. How the shifting works, manual or Tip, and so on.
Back at the starting point then you take the car out as the driver and over the same route drive the car the same way.
Note how the engine idles, pulls. A healthy stock Turbo engine should idle and then pull like a freight train engine on meth when the gas pedal is shoved to the floor and afterwards return to a nice smooth idle with no signs of any thing that went on before. Hot oil pressure should be in the 1 to 2 bar range with the hot oil pressure at 3K around 4 bar. Boost should reach 0.7 bar -- if you have some place you can utilize full engine acceleration to let it develop max boost. If you see higher boost this can be normal as the DME can boost to 0.8 even 0.8 bar (at least a higher elevations based on my experience). However, in some cases boost might only reach 0.6 bar. The DME only dials in as much boost as is needed to satisfy the torque demands of the driver.
Check for any pulsing in the clutch pedal. This can be a sign the clutch accumulator is out.
Put the tranny in each gear in turn and give it some throttle then back out to check for a gear pop out. 2nd gear is the most common but check at least 1st through 4th.
But sure the Tip upshifts smoothly under real light acceleration and under hard acceleration.
If after the above you still like the car give it a thorough used car check out. Assume nothing works until you verify it does. From lights to spoiler. From sun roof to turn signals. Everything.
Miss a dark headlight and it could be a $140 bulb, but it could be a nearly $1K igniter/ballast or whatever it is called. Miss leak sign at the spoiler and you could be faced with becoming an expert on spoiler hydraulics or be faced with a $2K bill to have the spoiler hydraulics replaced.
Miss a 2nd (or any gear) pop out for a manual equipped car and budget $6K (or more) for a tranny overhaul. You don't want to know what it costs to put a sick Tip right.
Miss a noisy front diff and face roughly $3K to replace. If you miss this and then decide to just remove the diff and go RWD you end up paying AWD money for a RWD car. Not good.
Remember, these cars are expensive cars new and they are expensive to repair/fix should something go wrong. So you don't want to miss anything.
After your used car check out and if you believe you can buy the car for an agreeable sum of money, get it PPI'd by someone who knows these cars inside and out.
Among other things he'll put the car on the lift and check for coolant, power steering, brake, clutch, engine oil, transmission/diff fluid leaks and any signs of underbody damage or repairs.
He should check the turbos for any external oil leaks and for any internal (seal) leaks.
He'll read the DME overrev counters and engine run time and go over these with you.
He'll put an experienced eye on all the body and spot any signs of accident damage repair you might have missed.
And so on.
You can of course, and I recommend it, ask him what he does during this PPI so you can know how thorough he will be.
If you find a deal killer don't be afraid to walk away. There is always another car.
Thanks for the one insightful opinion. I am taking it to beat the crap out of it for a couple of days. They want 32k. Will see what happens from here.
By the way former Granada High Grad!
I note you are in Chicago. Be careful that Turbo on summer tires doesn't beat the crap out of you. These cars are very powerful and can really bite if one is not respectful of their power.
Yeah sorta puzzling that someone has been a member since 2006 and hasn't realized there's a separate turbo forum? Dunno really what's going on these days with all these turbo threads in the NA forum...
Is a 'turbo' a kind of status symbol I wonder?
I thought the 911 was enough of a status symbol. It just doesn't make sense to me to buy a turbo with 100K on the clock when the same money would buy a 997 model. UNLESS the buyer intends to use the turbo on the race tracks.
I would hunt for a sub $30k price with that mileage.
seriously?
Aside from a GT3.2, I would take a turbo 996 over any n/a 997. Power, stout driveline, response to aftermarket modifications, ability to convert to 2wd, etc. Makes it a better overall car compared to the n/a in every conceivable way.
Actually for the track most people tend to not like the turbo.
It happens to be a heavier and more well equipped car. Plus it has AWD which takes away some of the traditional 911 steering feel. So I think the turbo is positioned more as the ultimate street 911 GT and the GT3 is the track tool.
Of course you can use them on the track but that's not Porsche's intent for the car.
Plus most turbo's can only survive a few laps at most before "things" start happening. It's not an issue in DE and track events but in full road racing events and such, it can have it's challenges.
I guess you see you have upset some by asking about a TT in this forum. In the words of reviewers, the engine and trans of the TT are "bulletproof". Don't worry about 95K.
And this:
Not a status. I really like the look of the body and the air inlets on the side. I have had several 911's but I just have to say I like the look a whole lot better than a C2 or C4. The performance is just an added +. I have a 2000sq ft garage and a lift. I also do about 85% of my own repairs and have 2 cars with over 250k miles on them and they run fantastic. So if the engine on the turbo's are way more bullet proof than a standard engine. I cant see how its a bad move. Price at this point was my only concern. Thanks for the good input, bad input and sarcasm. I missed it.....
