6 captured repliesDiscussion pagination complete · Source accounts, not a confirmed diagnosis
THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHQuickJack Pointers...
Leading reported evidence
Use 5000# system
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
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1
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Read evidence and context
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Leading evidence: 'Use 5000# system' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Repair prices there are stupid' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Suggestion
Not to mention the repair prices there are stupid.
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Suggestion
I’ve thought about this approach instead of using the SUV adaptors.
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6 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
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Generation: 20261027T033922Z · outcome-qualification-6. Deterministic extraction; no AI model inference. How we use sources
First, spring the extra bucks for the 7000 - it doesn't have any wobble, and you can lift up to 7,000 lbs.
Second, when lifting a rear engine car, reverse the jacks so the sticker is at the rear wheel, since that's where the most weight is.
Third, build your own blocks out of 2 X 6's. I made two per corner and glued/screwed them together.
Fourth, make your own pucks out of 2 X 6's. Get a 2 1/2" hole cutter and make four pucks. Get a 3/4" dowel and cut the little tops. Glue, screw them together. I'm going to shave off about 3/8" of the puck height.
Here's some pics, note that the original large hard rubber blocks that came with the jack "bent" at the rear, and did not provide what I thought was a secure platform.
Blocks that came with it, crap.
Front - 2 ea 2 X 6's cut to fit, and the home made puck.
another view of the front.
Rear, I had to use the thinner puck I bought, until I cut my home made ones down a little thinner.
I just finished mine yesterday. I had to grind the male inserts to size from a piece of steel
about the size of a half dollar but it went smooth. I primed them with zinc oxide and then applied several coats of caliper paint. I haven�t had time to test them out. I drilled out a hole on the underside on center so they should be balanced. I�m open for suggestions on protecting the paint from the jack stands when they get set up. Right now I am considering some diamond plate aluminum cut to size then pop riveted on. I�m open to suggestions though. We. Did it for the fun of it. Keeps me busy and out of trouble.
I won�t get back to these until I get my 02 sensors squared away. I think I got the right stuff today. We have a European car parts store that has been owned and operated by the same man for 30
years. He knows the tricks as well
as the pitfalls. I spent some time talking with him. He knows his stuff. No more pep boys for mechanical tips. Not to mention the repair prices there are stupid.
Nice job sasilverbullet! I’ve thought about this approach instead of using the SUV adaptors. They have to be more stable and secure. I’ve not had any issues with the rubber blocks as long as they are relatively centred, but for greater lifts heights, this looks very promising.
I use the skinny blocks up front and the larger blocks in the rear.
They barely fit sliding under my skirts...!
Never an issue other than my damn car is LOW!
I use the 5000# system.
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