How bad did I screw up bleeding the brakes on my '02?

I think I screwed up bleeding the brakes on my '02 with PSM. I have a track day coming up on Tuesday, and since I'm not positive that the PO had the brakes flushed recently, I decided to tackle it tonight. I have a power vacuum brake bleeder--one of these: https://www.amazon.com/…/dp/B00OM75…/ref=asc_df_B00OM751EC/… https://www.amazon.com/…/dp/B00OM75…/ref=asc_df_B00OM751EC/… I sucked the reservoir mostly empty on the right rear to get out all of the old fluid, then filled it, then sucked it mostly dry again, then tightened the bleeder. I did the same for the left rear. I checked the brake pedal and it was nice and firm. I then started on the right front. Since it was taking more than 5 minutes for the tool to suck the reservoir dry, I went inside and began explaining to my son the science on why it's necessary to periodically flush brake fluid. Well, I must have opened the bleeder a lot farther because when I went back outside, the reservoir was empty. I cursed my carelessness and had my son help me--10 pumps on the brake pedal, hold it down, then open the bleeder with the tool sucking on it, then close. I did this about 10 times on the right front. I then flushed the left front. Then I did the 10-pumps and bleed trick on the three remaining corners. I fired up the car for a test drive, and could tell immediately that the brakes still had air in them. So I Googled to see if I needed to bleed the master cylinder and found the how-to at Pelican Parts, https://www.pelicanparts.com/…/48-BRAKES-Bleeding_Brakes.htm , which says that if your 911 has PSM, you need a special tool to open the valves! This is when I started cussing a lot. Am I boned? Do I need the whatever-it-is tool? Should I plan to not attend the track day? Or is there any possibility of me fixing this with the tools I already have? EDIT - Upon doing more reading, there are two bleeders on each caliper. I was just bleeding using the outer bleeder--the one that is easily accessible through the wheel spokes.

Did you try to re-do the entire procedure? Starting right rear, clutch, left rear, front right, front left? Ive never use a vaccum tool but I guess its powerful enough to suck air out? I always used a positive pressure bleeder that you install on top of the master cylinder. https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_In...11L&DID=165256 Bleed the clutch at the same time as the brake and clutch use the same oil reservoir. So you do passenger side rear using the bleeder inside first the outside after. You move on to the clutch (press the pedal to the maximum and hold it there while bleeding), move on to the driver side rear and use the inside bleeder first outside after, move onto the passenger side front and then driver side front. You should be able to push the air out through the bleeder valve using this tool if the vacuum tool cant do it. As for the bleeding the ABS Activation using Durametric or other should be the way to go but Ive read it doesnt really work... I didnt bother activating it while bleeding my car.

No, you are not boned. the good news is that you'll be sure you have all the old fluid out when you're done. Also, the experience you've gained with using this new tool isn't really detrimental to the car. Get more fluid and do the process again. This time stay close and keep it filled. Driving with very little brake fluid in the calipers or reservoir doesn't sound like a good thing. Keep that to a minimum. I just bled mine this summer. The work around for ABS is to use it and make the pump work. It pushes fluid through and keeps it fresh. It's such a small amount a fluid in the ABS pump and if you keep it flushed it will all be fine. It's like changing the oil or coolant. It's impossible to get all the fluid out unless you tear it apart. Just keep changing it.

Also dont forget there r 2 bleaders for every caliper. this is why its easier to pressure bleed then vacuum. I have both and the vac unit works well and will pull the fluid through the abs in a jeep so it should work on the porsche. U will have to bleed all 4 corners again.

Can't comment on what you did "right" or "wrong' BUT the brakes in my 996 got bleeded 3x's after a complete brake job was done -- 2x by the Indy and 1x by the dealer -- and they still feel WAY too "soft" to me, after replacing EVERYTHING, including the pads, rotors, brake lines and master brake cylinder.

Well, I got it lined out. I re-did all of the corners, in the correct order. I did five pumps on the brake pedal, then opened the inboard bleeder with the vacuum tool on it, then closed it, Then five more pumps, open the outboard bleeder with the vacuum tool on it, then close it. I did that at least five times per bleeder on each caliper. The test drive was good--pedal is nice and stiff, and car doesn't pull under hard braking. I haven't touched the clutch--apparently that side of the master cylinder didn't suck air. I do plan to flush it but will get to that in the next week or two. Whew! Thanks everyone for the suggestions!

Brakes performed flawlessly at yesterday's track day, so apparently I really did get it all bled properly. Thanks again!

Quotes source post: 16840143

Nice work. With a pressure bleeder like motiv you only need to refill the reservoir maybe 3 times if you use it �dry�, or not at all if you do �wet� ie fill the motive bottle with fluid. No brake pumping required. I prefer dry since it minimizes risk of something failing spraying fluid everywhere, or a bad seal on the reservoir cap leaking out. The latter happened to me once, was a hell of a mess to clean up. Best to do this all wheels off for ease of access and no extra time if you are likely changing pads/wheels anyway before tracking.