Another one bites the dust.

Well, while having a great time at Watkins Glen the motor went boom. I was at the end of my 3rd session rounding a carasel turn at about 5k, hit the gas and the motor went from running to a complete stop in about a second. Then the passenger side tail pipe started smoking/steaming for about 10 minutes. What pisses me off the most is that it happened on friday and i was just getting into this track. So my guess is i cracked the head, filled a cylinder and a rod might be broke. I have no coolant in the resi, oil pan is still full of oil and has no sign of intermix. They did have to clean up about a 150' of something off the track. The motor stopped so fast it threw the belt. I also have oil on the engine coming from the top drivers side front. The cam plugs r still in tight so my guess is the rod cracked the block or the head is leaking because its not pouring out. No gauge lights or alarms preceeded the event and the uaos resi is empty. Im guessing track service was too much for the 200k mile motor. Hopefully in the next couple of weeks ill have time to drop it and see what really happened. So any other guesses from the peanut gallery. Only pic that shows anything wrong, oil down the side of thw motor.

Sorry to hear that.

Complete, utter bummer!

Sorry! Oil starvation?

Man, that sucks !! My guess is a big end of a rod turned blue.....

At the end of a session... Oil temp got it. What oil were you running? How long before the even did you change it?

Interesting.

Dang. At least it went out singing...

Sorry to hear that. 4.0 in future!

Bummer, so sorry. I think engine failure is always in the back of our mind for all of us that track our 996.

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Exactly this.. sorry dude. You are certainly not the first to have the motor let go on a RH turn... many have posted, oil pressure drops in certain RH turns is a characteristic of the ****ty oiling system of the M96. Oil pressure instability is the number 1 reason people with a lot of experience driving / racing / setting up these cars tell me to move on from the M96, stock, built...whatever for track work - not IMS or bore score or anything else. If I were to place bets... 1. Skip is right 2. Rod bolt Hope your path back to the track is not too painful Jason

Bummer! Seems like you�re not overly surprised seeing as you were running a 200k mi. motor at the track. 😉 Good Luck with replacement/rebuild/roller sale whichever you decide to do.

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I was running dt40 and it had about 600 miles and 3 de days on it. Watkins is a fast track so 7k was hit a few times going around but i never went past. The motor was a high milage y2k 3.4 that i brought back from the dead. I never really expected that it would survive forever. Im sure oil temps and/or the weak head caused a catastrphic issue. The motor has always ate oil buy it was running pretty strong until it wasnt. So i bought the car as a $4500 roller, fixed it for $150 and drove the **** out of it for 3 years. Im really not upset, but thx for the condulances. This just opens up a bunch of oppertunities. The search for a solution is just starting. Maybe i can intercept that motor going to Hawaii .

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Oh im keeping the car, i just spent a boat load on Ohlins.... i guess i could used that money for a motor but im not.

So sorry to hear. Look forward to see what path you take. Every time I drive my 996.2, I think, it could go at any minute, but it runs and handles so good. What fun it has been!

200K on the clock and 7k rpm at the track? Bravo, my hat's off to you! $4500 roller you drove for three years AND tracked, that car owes you not a thing. Here's hoping its repairable, or at least re-engined, and you're back at the track doing 7K rpm again.

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Good to see you take it in stride... this **** happens. Any video of the laps ? I'd be curious if in review there were any small signs...maybe if you could see what the factory OP gauge was doing... Were you on sticky tires ? I'm assuming, but maybe you can confirm water temps were normal. Looks like it was about 70 at the Glen yesterday so ambient were certainly favorable for relatively cool running. Looking forward to you getting the car back up and seeing the direction you go...

Damn - sorry to hear about this but like you said, you definitely got your moneys worth out of the car and glad to see you're keeping it. If you need a set of extra hands for any work let me know as I'm not super far away so happy to swing by, time permitting.

Ill probably keep this thread going for updates and analysis so keep checking it. Yea the car owes me nothing but man i really like diving it. Yea weather was about 70* and i was in street tires. No in car video but i had just checked my gauges on the back straight and water was at the middle if the 0. I do have cfs rads and the car usually reads at that spot. The guy behind me has video of the failure and he is gonna send it later tonight when he can edit the video down. Heading home from ny in a few and my curiosity will probably have me pulling the motor tonight and torn apart tomor, maybe. And then build an engine mount. So many new things to get my hands into, i cant wait

Sorry to hear it. But 200k and multiple years of track use, it was wrung pretty good for 20 year old engine. Just curious when you installed the engine did you put a X51 style oil baffle in? Tarret offers them for stock sump. No affiliation, just what I used. Were you on street tires or track tires? As others have said, long RH turns can play havoc, and the carousel, a dropping 180 degree righthander will test it. It seems when there a lot of Gs (track tires & Experienced driver) even with preventative action, things can go bad, with the exception of complete dry sump system. Good luck with rebuilding and hope to see you sometime at WGI. Ever have time, we are right off exit 66 I-86 (about an hour before you arrive at the track) Stop and say hello, always great meeting RL folks.

Deep sumps and baffles may help people sleep at night and work for people putting around... they do not resolve the problem for anyone that is driving the car on track to its capabilities. This is not opinion, it�s fact based in data. If you drive an M96 on track, You will have pressure instability... I have not seen any data that anyone�s parts or rebuilt engines change that with the single exception of the CTS dry sump which is not commercially available. My money on best resolution is oil cooling... which I wonder... would an effective cooling kit make deep sumps and there clearance issues obsolete... You live with it and hope for the best or you change platforms / engine.

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Hey man.. sorry to hear about the engine death. Seems like it's that time of year again! Anyway, I hope you'll upload pictures of the post mortem on this engine. Maybe it can be saved!

Bummer. Keep us updated please....

OP is a player Go bang 7k on track with a 200k mi 996 probably stock IMSB This guy is on my all time hit list I love it Sorry for the loss but it was no doubt already factored in

+1

Oh, man, that's lousy!!! I was hoping to meet you at one of the trackdays that were coming up this year... I think you will be able to handle this, I've seen your work on other threads here. PS, my money's on oil starvation too.

Sorry the motor does have a 6 yr old LN imsb. So im not that big of a rebel. Also there is a full 2qt LN sump kit installed. And i was on street tires. So another data point. I have been having issues with my coolant hose in the back of the motor pulling off and the resi tank purging during de days. Anyone think its possible the head has been cracked for a while and even with no intermix extream cyljnder pressure from high rpm downshifts may have been presurizing the coolant jacket? I highly doubt i i am good enough to pull the g's needed to starve the motor. Im pretty sure zbomb is correct kn the hot hot oil and it didnt help. I was planning on doing the 3rd rad and the 997 oil cooler this winter and still will for the new motor. So im back home and its in the lift. Here is our first clue. I found where the oil is leaving the motor. Aos bollow is blown out. Hope to have the motor out and heads off tomor.

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Im still betting in a cracked head and coolant hydrolocked the cyl. Remember There is no coolant left in the car and with no oil in the uaos i doubt it locked up from oil hydrolock.

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That could be it, too. I had a VR6 blow the head gasket in a spectacular fashion and hydrolock the motor while driving. The front wheels just locked up like jamming on the brakes. Bent the rod, too. That VR6 was probably salvagable, but since they are $300 at any junkyard I just replaced it. So if you don't find any holes in the block I could be convinced about hydrolocking. Did you pull the spark plugs & see if the engine turns yet?

Clue #2 this acually almost all water that i drained from the oil sump before it turned to oil. Probably 1.5 gal.

D chunk with a piece out of the cylinder wall perhaps? Snapped timing chain that smashed something internal?

Clue #3. Interesting magnetic sump plug sculpture. Once i got to the oil it looked decent. Also luckily 4 me i drained the rest of the coolant from the drain plug and it was clear. Looks like i wont have to flush the coolant system

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I guess having the engine seize instantly has it's benefits.

Ok detectives, this was the magnetic sculpture. Name that bolt?

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Not yet. im stopping dinner and beer. Ill be picking this up tomor after brunch with mom .

Camshaft sprocket bolt? Yes a connecting rod bolt.

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Is that...

Looks like the Head off a Connecting rod bolt

Makes sense to me. We r gonna call it a rod bolt. Maybe ill find the rest of it tomor.

Here is a quick vid of the motor going from the car behind. You Tube Low res and longer https://youtu.be/Qj5sZCH7rg4

Pretty dramatic....for both of you...

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Instantaneous. Back end when out on my car when it blew so i clutched and staightened out. I knew the motor was gone imeadiately so with no power breaks or steering i fought it to about 20mph and got into the grass. I kept thinking at $20 a bag for oil dry it might be more in clean up then for a motor

Ha, the oil dry charge is a kick in the dick after grenading a motor to the moon. Really though, could have been so much worse - Ton of oil spurting on the tires or exhaust makes a bad day into who knows what... good save and it looks like you got her off track as fast as you reasonably could.

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so its kind of funny i got a ton of compliments from the guys in my group and the instructors on how well i handled the incedent and got off line and off track. I guess because they think u r a beginner that u cant make the correct decision. I have been driving off road and compeditive rock crawing for more then 20 yrs but i dont have the talent yet on the track. I knew i lost the motor in less then a second and reacted instinctually. i try to explain to the instructors that i know exactly what the car is doing but i just dont know the track. Of course they dont really believe u because im sure they hear the same thing from everyone student. By the 3rd session they r silent as im dictating my actions around the track.

Good luck Man - although it sucks you have to go through it - I’m excited to follow along. Look forward to ripping it up on track with you when you get it situated.

I'm always curious to see what I am capable of in my 996 on a track then I see threads like this. Maybe a Miata is more my speed and expense

Sorry about your engine. Here's my armchair guess to what happened: I see plenty of people talking about oil pressure as the only thing important, but seldom oil flow. The oil pump will keep pushing more and more oil flow until it hits a certain pressure where it will level off and the excess flow will go back thru the by-pass. This is to protect the engine from over-pressure. When running too thick oils(excessive pressure) you level off the oil flow at a too low flow for efficient cooling during hard driving, the oil cooler will not be able to work efficiently if the flow is too low. The correct oil pressure is stated in the manual as "3.5bar at 5k rpm". If you have significantly more than that you will run in to issues, sooner or later. My guess is that(your oil flow was too low) the oil heated up too much causing the piston or rod/main bearings heat up too much and ....bang.

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^^^This exactly^^^ unfortunately folks (unknowing folks) are going to come here and read this thread (or just the thread title) and say �oh the M96 is a pos engine�...

DJ’s motor died on the track... in the same way a lot of other M96’s have died... long sweeping high G right turn... This story... regardless of miles - is one that has been told many times and is indicative of a well known, persistent problem for which I know of 1, non-commercially available resolution. Maybe, it’s coincidence I guess. The fact remains, if you talk to people who use these engines under serious track conditions or competitively, well, a lot of them will tell you exactly what they think about these engines.

Not a coincidence at all... As you said, it�s a known problem - yet some folks will continue to track them (yourself included) and then complain that the engine is a pos when it blows up (or even before it blows up as they�re flogging it around the track)...What is it they say about repeating the same behavior and expecting a different result? Yes, there are better platforms to start with when building a race engine, but they all blow up (clearly some more than others).

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D... I don't see anyone complaining ? Or expecting a different result, I think most of us who use this engine in this way are fully aware of the possibilities. This issue is an inherent flaw to the engine - its not a complaint to recognize its existence, and its not a complaint to say that its existence, coupled with some of its other flaws, my main target being lack of power, may lead some to think that the engine is, to use your words, a "POS". For me - I love the chassis and I will continue to try to milk every inch I can out of it, despite the fact I think the amazing chassis is completely let down by an engine that does not do it justice. - Also, not a complaint, opinion. If the motor let goes or funds allow, maybe I can see what I can do about that. I can't wait to see what DJ does, he's a good wrench, good mechanical aptitude and seems like he is excited to get cracking. I'm excited to watch.

We might see this when DeJeeper's engine is cracked open... You Tube

I am already looking at rnd replacement block/case but not sure if they have a 3.4l. There is also a race company a baltimore called ssi that i may go visit next week. They nickosil plate and can can do nickies if needed. They were at the track and got a good vibe from the guy. I may cheat on this one and have the motor built to a track performer spec or i still may build my own. To be honest im not sure i want to build the bottom end if one of these motor without some experience looking over my shoulder. i can afford one of Jakes motors but i just dont think i want my car to sit for 3 yrs. If i went that direction i would have to put a used motor in and not track until i got it. Again not ideal for me. I bought the car to have fun not sit in a garage. And to be clear i am not in the least bit complaining that this motor went boom. I have been expecting this to happen since i brought it back from the dead. I made sure it was in as good of shape as it could be in for track duty but it was old and loose. The only thing that im pissed at is it happened on a friday and not sunday. fyi, if this starts to turn into an arguement about tracking or the quality of a m96 motor i will ask the moterators to step in. If others have some build idea and options i would love to hear your thoughts.

200k on the track: That's awesome and fearless. Sorry you will be down for a short bit. But from your attitude and drive, I expect it will be only a very short bit. Sorry, no advice. Anything I could add would be things you already know. I can only add encouragement. Good luck! I'm looking forward to the results.

" and its not a complaint to say that its existence, coupled with some of its other flaws, my main target being lack of power, may lead some to think that the engine is, to use your words, a "POS"." Those aren't my words at all - in fact I believe I remember a thread that you either started or contributed heavily to, in which you use/used that exact phrase... Personally, I don't care what you think of the engine - I just find it ironic and a bit disingenuous that you come here bashing the engine then build your car out as if it's a race car (which you've done a pretty nice job of BTW) track it and then when the engine blows up you'll probably say "see, I told you the M96 was a sh*tty engine that didn't belong on the track!" "And to be clear i am not in the least bit complaining that this motor went boom. I have been expecting this to happen since i brought it back from the dead. I made sure it was in as good of shape as it could be in for track duty but it was old and loose. The only thing that im pissed at is it happened on a friday and not sunday. fyi, if this starts to turn into an arguement about tracking or the quality of a m96 motor i will ask the moterators to step in." ^^^ as I said in my original post, you're clearly not complaining and weren't particularly surprised as you stated that the engine had 200k miles on it...I'm a little surprised you were tracking it with DT40 though, as both Jake and Charles have stated several times that DT40 is NOT track oil...this is from the LNE webpage " Street oils typically protect only to 240F, even full synthetics. Anytime you do a high performance driving event, even if it�s your first time taking your car on track, you should use a true race oil. These oils typically have added anti-wear additives, reduced detergency, and improved anti-foaming additives, coupled with better base stocks that resist thinning at high temperatures. These oils are designed to protect your engine best under the stress of going on track. Remember, most race oils are good only for about 500 miles, so we recommend changing your oil immediately after a track day so you store your race car with clean oil. You should not store any engine with race oil as true race oils do not have the corrosion inhibitor, dispersant, and detergent additives street oils have. For street cars, that becomes a bit more complicated, requiring you to run change to a street oil between events and run the race oil only for track use. Remember, oil is cheap, engines are expensive! Driven Racing Oils offers their XP line of conventional, semi-synthetic, and full synthetic race oils in several viscosity grades for all applications." Once again, bummer but it seems like your head's in the right place. Good luck with whichever direction you go

It sounds to me like you've got it all together brother. Take some time and think through your options, then go baby go!

More oil pan pics. Im guessing the plastic tubes r squirters? The rest if the material is ferrrous. Bottom of motor looks good.

Out of curiosity.... does the motor turn over by hand ? EDIT... Just saw pictures... that's a lot of metal, maybe one hole is missing a piston... is that a piece of ring in the sump ? Upper left. what did plugs look like ? The plastic pieces look like baffle spacers for the deep sump kit. If I remember correctly, I thought mine were metal - but the instructions seem to show plastic ones as well.

De Jeeper, Very sorry about the engine. At the same time I am happy as he'll for you in being able to rebuild. Also happy on what you are going to learn and share with us. I got an 02 C2. 56k miles, approx 80 track days over 19 years. Never had a fear of bore scoring. Maybe I should. Never had a fear of the Ims, because I put in the LN retro kit. Never worried about AOS after putting in motorsport AOS, because it solved the smoking issue on the track. But I continue to fear oil starvation. Got a 2 qt deep sump. Change the oil after every track day. If I do 8 in a summer, that's 8 oil changes. Do the same thing for my brake fluid. But all of the enhancements and upgrades listed above still doesn't solve the oil starvation issue. So as I read thru this thread I ask a couple of questions out loud as I think thru your predicament. 1. What actually caused your engine failure? 2. Is oil starvation more than pulling heavy continuous "G's" around the track. In particular, why could I run so many DEs in the black run group with Hoosiers, and not experience any failure? 3. Or is oil starvation more than pulling "Gs" . Is it a failure of an oil pump or a clog or a lack of sufficient oil or water cooling. But if that's the case, why didn't mine blow running at Road America in Hoosiers in the middle of the summer (many, many times) without enhanced oil cooling or an extra radiator? 4. What did the Porsche 996 race teams do to the car to be able to run our engine in the Grand Am race series? 5. What further can I do to my car to prevent oil starvation? 6. When my engine eventually goes, what do I have to make sure is done to the engine to ensure that I do not have oil starvation in the future with the new engine? Just a few rhetorical questions for all of us to think about. Unfortunately, I don't have the answers as of yet. Zbomb is aggressively looking for them. De Jeeper, I suspect you are looking for them. So are many of you. If you have the answers, please share! I for one am all ears. ​​​​​

Sorry but im gonna have to come back to your questions but i was in a sjb 50mph right hander on street tires. I was not pulling the g's needed ti drain a 2qt extra ln pan. Z - thanks u r right. More pics. Its out and my bets are still a cracked head. Oh and metal made its way up to the intake. All the oil in top is from a blown aos bellow.

Are all the valves there ? Maybe it was a timing event that shattered the piston... Metal making its way into the intake looks to me to be a destroyed piston.

Internals in the head and plugs look fine. I can also see the all 3 pistons through the holes so they r still there . Got to eat and feed the dog. Ill have the head off after dinner so keep checking the thread.

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Bank1 heads don't look bad considered the consequences. What do the bank2 heads look like?... did the chain survive? Wonder what the main IMS drive chain looks like? Anyway, thank you for the post mortem pictures... please keep'm coming. I guess we'll know the truth when this engine is on the half-shell.

The party came out of bank 1 exhaust. Very surprised the plugs don't tell more of a tale. I'm with b3freak - super interesting to watch along with you as you tear it down. Thank you for taking the tine to document it.

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To keep things clean I won't weigh in technically, either with observations. You can buy my video and build it yourself.

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I can�t agree with you more. As a retired tribologist, oil formulator, used oil analyst, lubrication engineer, he�ll put 60 weight oil there if you want pressure, what you want is flow, thick oils also run hotter and due to excessive friction reduce horsepower. In addition to all of that 70 percent of wear happens at startup you are wearing that engine more by running that oil. Jeeper you May want to look at this. The seller sent me this email today lowering the price to $4,000 is a 99, with 69,000 miles. You are getting 5 quarts with the rebate for about $20 taxes included. Then you go to advance and do the $33.99 with oil filter. You got your oil change for less than $60. Knowing what I know and having taking care of fleets with 500 million dollars worth of engines I�m running Mobil one, if that was not available I�ll run Valvoline European. Remember Porsche themselves went to the 50 weight oil in 2019, I reached out to them and also driven no response. Anyway look at the price of the oils. Look how cheap and easy you can get Mobil one. So far 5,000 miles on my car no oil consumption to talk about, I don�t track the car. There is a $4,000 used 99 engine available I�ll post it.

I'm really digging this thread much much more than I thought I would. Failure analysis has always been one of my forte's and this moment by moment account of the discovery of the failure since Friday evening is very interesting to me . Even more interesting than doing it myself ( since I have gotten old and get tired easily).DeJeeper is doing it so much faster than I would be able to nowadays. I can't wait to see the next broken part. ( that's kinda weird though in a way).. I'm still looking for a "dark blue color:" on the rod that the rod bolt came from......

Thanks for saying it skip... It's like, I shouldn't be as invested in what comes next or enjoying the process as much as I am, or at least I shouldn't admit it openly... but I do. DJ is a boss for slinging through all that work at this pace and thank god cause I'm on the edge of my seat.

I know Z, if we were over there we would be having the Ingersal Rands singing while DJ was eating his dinner, feeding the dog, then hand back off to him...lol

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it is an option and im sure i can, just not sure i want to. ​i suspect u already know what is broke and why and its better if u dont tell. If i need advice ill open a ticket as your experience is invalueable. also all this oil talk is hindsite and moot. The motor is gone. I started with an old and loose motor with no service records, the math was clear. It had no bore scoring in 200k miles and i was using good oil but not track oil. Im an engineer that is also a pretty good mechanic. I played in the high power desiel world long before brodozers and have been into the anaysis of new oils and changes for the last 25 yrs. No need to rehash or continue what u guys have mentioned and wrote about in debth in previous threads. Thx for your input so far.

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i have to keep u guys in suspence, think of it as s commercial break.

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Haha - I’d be feeding him adult beverages to keep him away... don’t worry DJ... I got it I ****ing hate commercials !

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Talking about dinner, I ate for the whole day. The compressor school was 5 days. I�ll be interested to see if it�s rebuildable isn�t it easier to start with a lower wear engine.

So chicken ot the egg guys??? Rear cylinder and piston is well beyond d-chunk. The head looks perfectly fine except for some debris in the exhaust valve. Im gonna break down bank w but dont think there is an issue in that side so probably no pics coming from that side. I probably wont get to splitting the halves till tomor.

An RND engine would be the best quick solution IMHO. Rebuilding it, or a replacement, yourself would make a great thread, and you could build it larger. A FSI engine that�s purpose built for the track would be the best solution in my opinion. Jake has ways to allow the engine to survive on the track, but that�s part of his secret sauce.

That block might be salvageable by LN Engineering. Looking forward to seeing the crank and carrier! No holes in the side of the block?

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ln is on my list of people to call after i get it split. No holes so far but i cant see inside yet. I agree jakes track motor would be best but....time-money-quality. I may have to choose 2.

Throw that core away. It has seen too much trauma. Leave it for someone else to learn a lesson from. Even if you can save it- you shouldn't. I can see enough from what you've posted to make this statement. LN has the videos, its best if you get it from them when they do block work for you. 3.4 cores are easy to find, and cheap. I turn them down every week or so when people try to sell them to us. We don't live off of cores like mass producers do, since we build the customer's engine, and I haven't been taking on any catastrophic losses for the past couple of years. Have fun with it, failure= opportunity. You just have to change the way that you look at it.

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Jake what�s your definition of a cheap 3.4 core, I�m just curious.

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Under 1K. I bought two for 500 bucks each a few weeks back. I didn't need them, but I bought them just to have them.

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Looks like i may need one . I would agree with u on the core. That half of the block has the welded oil pan anyways and i would not get credit for it anyways finishing up for the night. As expected bank 2 looks fine. Hopedully i will pull the accessories and split the case tomor. I have gear swap for a jeep that might get in the way considering thats how i will be paying for the new motor.

GC996, to partly answer your #5 question. Read post #127: https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...corners-9.html

I think you'll find the rod bearing was the cause of that. The rod bearing failed, the piston came out of the cylinder too far on the down stroke, the ring caught the outside of the bore. JB weld anyone?

Great thread. Thx for taking so many pix!

Here is what what send to me. Look at TBn levels, higher than liquid moly lower than Mobil 1. Also no mention about other anti wear other than 600 ppm moly. Amsoil and Mobil one TBn at 12 and above. From what I gathered this is a small company, honestly I would like to see their Porsche A40 letter of approval, keep drinking the kool aid, I�m not running this stuff in my car even if it was given free to me as a sponsorship. To give you a clue Hendricks Motorsport was sponsored by Quaker state, part of pennzoil big dollar sponsorship but they continued to run Valvoline, it�s all about the money, not the best product to protect your engine, I also don�t like the viscosity at 100.

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Im just hoping the crank is ok. I can deal with a case half but the cranks get real pricey.

I’ve got my fingers crossed with you dj...

[Image-only post; no author-written text. Original image references:] https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/popcorn.gif

Hmm, address is Democrat Rd, Chamberlain address.

Someone always has to turn it into an oil thread.

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the issue is that most people don�t know about oil specs, in the us you get api, ilsac, aama, mandated specs, you formulate a oil you send it to an approved lab you run all the test, you missed one or or two, due to interchange guidelines you reformulate, re Tun the test or test and you get an approved oil, in Europe you send your fully formulated oil to the OEM Porsche, BMWs, Mercedes, VW, you pay a fee and they test It for you, you fail you got to repeat the procedure, it�s a hell of a difference animal, FYI so that you k ow.

Sorry to keep u all in suspense but i got a late start tonight. Im happy its all apart. I guess i was in denial as it was a seized crank bearing on number 1. None of the other bearings show signs of blueing.i guess it only takes 1. The damage internally isnt that bad. I think the crank carrier can be saved. Bank 1 case half is pretty fubar but maybe someone can sleeve it and ill still get a core credit. Bank 2 is good but number 4 may need a sleeve because of debris. The plasic tray above the ims is broken. The bigest issue is i think the crank is fubar. Im a little out of my league on what u can do to a crank. Let me know if u think it can be saved. Here r some pics of the damage. Let me know if u want some more specific pics. I can take them tomor after work.

Also jic u wanted to see what it took to strip the motor, check oit my mess. I have a half dozen totes to store, seal and label the parts into. All the hardware is seperated and labeled in zip locks. Im sure some r looking in horror of this mess.

So now that it's apart, what left is usable for the replacement project?

Big difference between Performance engines and Race engine..M96= performance

Kinda looks like what it seemed it would - fair amount of carnage. Too bad. That crank journal looks like it was taking an absolute beat down before it decided it had enough. I know you said no signs of heat on the other bearings - I'd like to see what 200K mile bearings look like, can you post pics and maybe mic them, top and bottom at 3 points - mains and rods... The mains look pretty good from what I can see from your picture. Broken rod will make a nice (expensive ) desk trophy

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zbomb jeeper you guys seem extremely knowledgeable, this is a 01 3.4 with this apparent damage. Squirrel told me the engine has to come apart, how expensive you guys think guess this is going to be . The engine has 39,000 miles, maybe Porsche tech 3 can jump on this one too. Thanks good luck jeeper.

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Reads like sales guy speak for... it has ****ing rod knock. Needs rebuild and maybe a new crank depending...or a GT3 engine or a Turbo transplant or an LS or ... It's a roller.

As far as i can tell this is gonna cost me between $15-20k. The exact costs r a little muddy. It depends on if the crank, case and halves r good. The core charges r significant. I suspect i am on the hunt for a good bank 1 half and a crank to core out. Lmk if any if you guys see something. Full disclosure... this is the farthest i have dove into a motor. I usually have thr rotating assemblies built then i put the rest together. I dont really have an experience setting up cramk bearings amd pistons. That being said i took this thing apart...im sure i can put it back together. I would like to build this motor as a reliable track performer. The issue is that i dont really know what that means. From my reasearch part of that is to open up the mains a little. Again not really sure how that is acheived. So far the 2 options i have found are a localish shop un baltimore called SSI. I have got several positive personal reviews and i met the guy at Watkins and got a solid vibe from him. The rough price was in my range but im not sure how that will change with all the damage. Also i dont know his schedule. Ill probably start with a phone call and then a visit to see his operation. Second option is to just buy Jakes video, rnd nickie cases and their rebuild kit. I think it will cost about the same as the SSI motor but i will be doing the work (which is fine). Im sure i can have it done much sooner too. Any other thoughts from the brain trust here?

Also for reconditioning the heads is Hoffman the only choice? They do not appear to be cracked but i would want the full checked and new parts installed. Z- i assume u r reffering to the rod bearings. I can measure the sides and middle of each half. Ill also clean them up and take a few more pics tonight. I just didnt have the energy last night after seeing the crank. Edit. Just reread your post. Ill do rods and mains. Again first time i have been in it this far. Ill figure it out.

Aaron, If it were me: I would not rebuild it myself, knowing that a stock (with upgraded parts) is not good enough for my needs and worth the investment. That’s all I would be able to do without the experience building these engines for track use. If I went that route, I would expect an issue, like the one that looks to have caused the failure to be likely to reoccur as a rebuild in and of itself does not do anything to address that issue. I would contact folks that have built engines for extensive track use and get an understanding if I were to have them rebuild the engine, what I would get for my money and how much money that would be. How an issue like inconsistent oil pressure is addressed in their build and try to be as comfortable as possible before moving forward that I would not end up going down the same road again $20K poorer than the first time. If you would like any of the contact info of people I would reach out to if it were me, shoot me a PM.

You’d never know you hadn’t done it before dude... impressed you’ve made it as far as you have in the time you have would be an understatement.

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This is Ryan�s Friedman from NY car. I have photos and videos. I walked away from it because he told he wanted around $25, I told him about my car and he couldn�t believe what I paid for it. Then he asked me why I wanted another one and I told him I wanted to diversify my investments too much in the market. Anyway, my guy that works at a PCA shops also works in his house, so I�ll be consulting with him. Any idea on fair value? Originally I taught $11 at most. Thanks.

The engine cases are a matched set so you cannot just replace one side. that one side it beyond repair. I have a matched set with scored bore on cylinder #3. Also that crankshaft carrier is really beyond repair. I have the crankshaft carrier from the cases noted above. No crankshaft though. If you want these for rebuilds let me know and we can work out a deal..

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Couldn't agree more with Jason. You can hear the crickets as many of us have asked about oil starvation/pressure solutions. The reason is that a few folks/shops have figured it out but don't want to give away their "secret sauce" in how they rebuild the engine for track performance and durability without swapping in a Chevy engine. IMHO, I would go with the guys that have a proven track record with addressing the issues that ultimately destroy the engine. None of us want to be a 15-20k test case for those that say they can but in actuality can't. No criticism or agenda here on my part. Love your thread and what you are doing and thinking. These are things that I have been thinking about in regards to my 996 which I have owned and tracked for 19 years. Love the car and want to keep it and drive it on the street and track for 19 more years with a solid engine rebuild someday soon.

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Not trying to be snarky here, but 19 years and your engine hasn't blown up!!?? That's seems to speak well for at least your 996 engine. Do you think you have been lucky or got a really good engine? Just curious.

Is there an expectation that the engine should blow up after an X amount of time and particular time of use? I mean sure it could but clearly it doesn't always. @GC996 - that's mighty impressive! Out of respect to Aaron I want to keep this thread about his experience and journey but it would be cool to have a track focused 996 conversation (separate thread) covering what people have done to their cars over time that have made them live for so long despite the abuse. Include all stuff no matter how insignificant it may seem. Sometimes it's the little things. Clearly there are no guarantees and things can go south quickly but it would be cool to have a referenceable data points to look at.

Glenn is super **** (compliment) about his motors upkeep, has developed a good routine with good support... and he’s lucky. I hope his luck continues in perpetuity.

After seeing the disassembly photos, I strongly recommend sourcing another core engine. Give me some time and I can help you find one at a good price, and hook you up with the seller directly.

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I ask myself that question every day. It's an 02 with 56k miles. Been tracking it since 2004 but have been spotty with track days over the past 5 years due to kids/family events. Have done everything you can do to it from a preventative standpoint early on in its life including: motorsports aos, Ims retrofit, deep sump oil pan. Have a great Porsche Indy (Midwest Eurosport) that is exceptional in taking care of it. Smart guys that are preventative when going over the car. Have run Mobil 1 0-40 the whole time. After every track session I take it in immediately to the shop to change the oil and brake fluid. If I do 8 DE events in a year, that's 8 oil changes. While we haven't tested it for bore scoring, there are no signs of it. ​​​​​​Not afraid of high revs on the track with the engine, but learned early on that you don't have to beat the he'll out of your car to go fast around the track. So I learned "smoother was better" and how to carry more momentum. So in answer to your question, I have been very lucky with my engine. But very early on preventative medicine with motorsport AOS, deep sump, Ims retro, plus obsessive oil changes, coupled with an exception Porsche shop probably helped.

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Yeah, I'll but out. I get a little excited over anything 996!

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Hah no worries! Was mean in the upmost positive way Just want to keep the thread clean and thanks a lot for sharing the info you did!

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Thx. I may need the parts. I am agresively trying to find all the answers to my questions so i can get started. I will let u know. Very nice of u. After going through the core costs i basically came to the same conclusions. I will be in touch but ill do my research first so u can be a more educated student No problem. Happy to have preventitive measures in this thread. I had basically done what u did but the oil changes. Probably my downfall but i have to imagine with how common the failure on #1 is that there is an accumlative degrading effect on that rod and pressure drops and oil shear just magnify an underlying issue.

I think you're in need of a crankshaft mon ami. No regrinds are possible on these cranks. I note in the parts catalog that a 3.2 from a Boxster shares the same crank - perhaps that could be a route for a core engine. There are lots of 3.2's and a few 3.4's on ebay and in the rennlist classifieds if all else falls through, to use as cores for a rebuild.

Joining the consensus on having a known race engine builder do the work. There's no question you have the skills to rebuild it, but the devil is in details that aren't published. How many builds does it take to learn those details? If you want to become a builder, this is a 'trial by fire' number one...

Yes, unfortunately oversized bearings aren't available for the M9x so you have to replace the crankshaft.

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Yea i have read that. If i rebuild it will be with a new core. im still waiting to talk with 2 different race shops. Whats tempting is a brand new corvette lt2 in ebay. Just not sure u want to go through making it work. Not a lot of support for the mid engine stuff yet.

I’ve got an LS guy DJ... if you’re into doing it yourself, YOU could and probably be less than M96 rebuild with a used LS3. Let me know if you want their contact.

I have always felt that tracking any car is going to be an expensive endeavor. And that an engine at 100% throttle and redline on every straight will only last for 30,000-50,000 miles. The more power, the less miles. No, they won�t always blow up, that�s for sure. But if they do, I�m kind of expecting it. Especially a stock motor that hasn�t had cooling and oil improvements made already.

Stock Chevy motors actually have similar fates as the M96, unless oil and cooling mods have been made.

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Yes... but the HUGE difference is those modifications: 1. Have been developed and known to work 2. THE BIG ONE - Are commercially available, not only are they commercially available but there is generally multiple different MFG competing for the best product and your business. For instance, a number of different dry sump options can be bought, today, on the internet for an LS and are by and large bolt-on.

That lt2 is a factory dry sump. the ls or lt platform still a posibilty but not really the motor i want if im gonna to track it, but It would be a riot on the street. I would be doing all the work myself and i already have some of the parts. I was really looking for an easier solution but not having a core to start with really impacts the budget.

At one point Porsche was selling "remanned" 3.4 short blocks that were actually new engines, which required a core that did not have to be rebuildable. I seem to recall they were something like $7k.

As a question, these track days, does it matter what you run as long as it meets track safety requirements? In other words they don't care what you have for a motor? That is unless you are running some sort of event that requires something "stock"?

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If factory dry sump, LS7 without the direct injection probably worth a look for simplicity sake. For me, I would go with the less expensive LS3, cam it and put maybe a Daley dry sump on that is a true dry sump unlike the GM factory setup. I see tons of LS’s on track... some of them are very, very fast. Regardless, I’ll keep an eye out for core motors for you man.

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For DE, PCA doesn't care what engine you are running as long as it doesn't leak and it's inside a Porsche body. Safety equipment will be taken into consideration for your run group. Club racing does care.

Yeah, I run a Ford for my track days with PCA!

Sorry no crank and rod bearing measurements tonight. Just too wiped out. I did get most of it boxed up but need a few more bins. still researching and talking with race shops. I may try to call LN tomor and see what they have to offer if i want to build it myself. after talking with one shop they think that the rod may have broke first and the damaged followed based on only having one hot bearing. He told me that they dont do a lot internally to keep them running as a track performer. He ssid just keeping the inside wet with oil and keeping the oil temp down goes a long way. He seems to think that since i was doing all the right things and the the rods in our motors a average at best, at 200k miles the #1 rod just let go. I dont ever think ill know for sure.

So, on the next build, stock rods or aftermarket? Originals seemed to live a long life.

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Your durability is due to changing the oil as you do. Now, have you ever analyze your used oil after a race?? New oil is cheap insurance, but it could be overkill changing it after every race. If you ever do the sample of Mobil one, after a race look at fuel dilution, viscosity at 100c, AW package and TBn, also si (dirt). Top fuel dragsters change theirs after only a quarter mile, huge fuel dilution. Awesome thread

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A long life on the street but not on the track. Most deffinately aftermarket for the next motor. It will be more $ but they will give me peace if mind. Is there anyone that has a nice rebuild kit like LN? I keep staring at their site and i want to pull the trigger on a bunch of stuff. Its hard to be patient and non-impulsive.

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Somewhere on Rennlist is a thread discussing various rebuild options and costs in a spreadsheet. Very helpful. If I can find it I'll attach the link. look under "2019 Rebuild Options" .

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Skip put together some great info in this thread: https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...under-10k.html He lists prices from Pelican mostly, but there are better deals if you shop around.

Thx guys. I remember that thread. Good info in there. After talking to a second engine builder they think that upgrading the rods may be overkill for our hp level and its really the bolts that have the issue. Its hard to figure out what ia really needed. This guy has good pricing with nickasil plating(not sleeves), vertex imsb (need to reasearch that one), opens up the rod bearings a smig for better oiling. Im sure he has a few other tricks as he has a couple hundred 3.4l rebuilds out and about. Also he also only 1.5hrs so im gonna go visit his shop. Its a pretty basic build that he says will survive a track and street duty for years. My issue is i always want to best but dont think i can afford it in this one. Edit: so the vertex bearing is the eps one. No body start a debate over this or ill get the mods involved. I can change it to the Solution if i want for the reman.

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This, I have over 3k track miles on my Track Performer II. 90 percent of the miles at Brainerd and Road America. Both have long sweepers. I run R7's. Yes the pressure droops, but never goes to 0.

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Looking at their site it looks like they basically use the EPS IMS bearing. That's what came out of my car when I did the IMS job (I thought it was the stock one in there due to lack of records). The shop I used usually does LN ones but they were impressed with how good it looked after about 50k some miles. Smooth with no play. Here are some photos I snapped:

Don't even mess with roller or ball IMS bearings. install a pinned shaft and a IMS Solution.

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Again not turning this thread into a debate over imsb. Im a very well educated customer on this and i can choose the bearing i want with this builder.

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To not drive this thread OT - could you provide input on your oil pressure observations on your built motor in the thread I started on what I see on my stock motor ? https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...stability.html

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This is where it turns into a juggling act. Opening up the bearings a tiny bit, something like a half-thou or less, promotes greater oil flow which promotes greater bearing cooling. Plain bearings are oil-cooled by the escaping oil flow. Open plain bearings out too much and the hydrodynamic wedge effect is lost. Plain bearings rely on a hydrodynamic wedge effect to support the bearing loads - the oil pressure from the pump doesn't support the bearing loads which run into thousands of PSI. The oil pressure just keeps the flow of oil to the bearings. Of course if opening up the bearings a touch results in better bearing cooling, the heat must go somewhere and that's into the oil. Also the oil pump must flow more oil because the leakage effect through the bearing has been increased. The need for more flow can cause lower oil pressure which can starve bearings towards the end of the flow circuit.

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I 100% agree and is one of the things i dont want to do the math on. I have a feeling the only way u get it right is through experience.

It's like soup. No one ingredient makes it have the taste you are looking for. Right oil Right place Right time Right temperature Right quantity These are lubrication 101. You can't just open up a clearance and save the world.. You can't just apply a coating. You can't just put in a bigger oil pump. You can't just use a special oil. You can't just install an oil cooler... This is all a recipe, and at the end of the day the ONLY way you get it right is by blowing things up one at a time. This is why people don't buy one engine from me, they buy pieces of around 1,000 others, some of which were only assembled to be killed on purpose. Using different clearances in the same engine with different oils, and temperatures, then tearing it down (if it lives) is a key. Each one of those tests eats a month or so of your life, while you are expending the life, and money that the other go isn't willing to, all to hone the craft. He is busy bolting things together, calling himself an engine builder, and playing the part of a role he won't ever memorize the words to. I've blown up a lot of stuff.. A lot. I have an (Aircooled) engine on my bench now that failed on my engine dyno when I turned the volume rpm as high as I intended the engine to withstand. I get to do it all over again, but that's what happens when you triple the power of an engine that's over 50 years old, and you push the envelope. I learned something today that I didn't know yesterday, and that's why I'll never be an "Expert". People think there's one answer to solving problems with these engines. That never has, and never will be the case. People say this is just like any other engine, and nothing we do is special. Funny thing is, those guys can't seem to make one work themselves, or they don't even have the ***** to try it.

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Jake you are correct most Of the time but regarding oil sometimes you missed the boat. You build the engine you know what your tolerances are so you specify viscosity. Viscosity is a range so pass car 40 w oil can be 13 at 100c, if you use a deo (Diesel engine oil) most formulate around 15, that 2 centistokes difference is huge, number two, due to residence time in the sump, oil pressure, oil flow heat dissipation, you want to have as much oil as possible in the sump without overfill. Anyway if you ever get a chance to get an oil approved by a European oem and see how they conduct testing you see there is a huge difference in procedure between us and Europe. Anyway a piece of paper will take anything you can write fit on it, an approval process, license from a oem that is a different proposition and yes that�s not cheap. Ask chevron with their newest delo 400, or shell with their newest r�tela how much they spent in testing formulating before final end product was put out , I�ll guarantee you over a 1,000,000 dollars. You know engines I know oils. Oh by the way, on one if your videos you said that one of your customers saved oil samples for years, the longest an oil sits the more it will degrade and it will not show the condition of the mechanical equipment at the time. Also another insight, most companies oil companies buy an additive package that is compatible with a particular base oil (lubrizol, ethyl, paramins, etc), the best formula is put together component by component, that cost an arm and a leg.

I sure am glad that we have an oil expert here. Maybe people can ask you all the questions that I refuse to answer. I'm out of here before the OP gets his topic diverted to another planet. See y'all.

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If you do try dealing with the French. History lesson, you know why the French invented some of the best fragrances, colognes?? Sometimes no showers in a week, perfectly normal for French females to have more arm pit hair than us guys and that was sexy for them. Finally when Napoleon was out there with his short stature trying to conquer the world he would send a messager to Marie Antonieta not to take a shower in a few days because he was coming home, laugh 😹 people laugh 😂. I�m not making this crap up Is real. Back to the thread.

Renault, Peugeot worsts OEMS i have dealt with in My life.

It�s not hard to figure out if you just follow JR�s advice and trust/know you�ll get good info. Too many positive reviews and examples of happy customers is a good benchmark.

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Are you trying to get the teacher sticker? Maybe the smiley face on your paper? Have you tried putting an apple on their desks? That used to work. How many Porsche engines have you personally built?

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Nutty, where have you been??? lol

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Hiding. Every time I show up here there is some kind of fight going on. If it's not an IMS debate or how to make the M96 accept a dry sump oil system, there is someone attacking the very few knowledgeable contributors to this forum. I still read a lot of information on Rennlist including the progress on your AOS invention. Congratulations. Can I now see images of all your certificates, degrees, etc.? I see that's the new Rennlist standard?

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i haven�t built a single one sir. I�ll say I have gone over more than 50,000 oil analysis in my life. I had fleets with over 1,000 engines under my care. The builder who sets the tolerances and should know about viscometrics, specifies the oil film required to achieved full film lubrication no metal to metal contact, but what finish happening with most if not all engine builders is that the engines start developing failures. The way new oil specs categories are developed is addressing the issues with the engines, so if you know about specs that is why you have an engine test for wear, you have another test for oil evaporation consumption, you have another test for engine cleanliness deposits, another one for fuel economy, etc, etc. , every single of them has an Achilles hill and that�s How they petition for a new spec, addressing all the issues that they have going on in the field, under real driving conditions. The committee that drafts the specs is comprised of auto manufacturers, oil companies, additive companies, every body involved in the game, pretty interesting dynamics. Who are you going to thrust more, Porsche who built a gazillion engines or somebody that has built what 5,000.

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Thanks man! Yes, but show yours first .. ..I'm still waiting on my Honorary Doctorate Degree from Rennlist. I need to hang it on the wall with the others. I wonder what's taking so long?? signed:: Dr. h. c. Porschetech3

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you have the knowledge and a bunch of experience, you got my admiration, anyway a 2001 3.4 has developed a vibration above 3,500 rpm. Has been said that it is a rear crankshaft bearing issue, is there is a chance that this could be a crankshaft position sensor??? Your input knowledge is appreciated. This is a low mileage engine less than 40,000 miles,

Not really sure I would like to use anything from this particular core for a build in the 15 to 20k range.,

3/98 please give it a rest. I know u r trying to make a point but please do it in another thread. If u come across anything that would help in the rebuild please speak up. Jake i understand your point. I have not bothered to open up a ticket because although i feel your product is worth every penny the logistics of having u build me a motor does not fit with my plan. Honestly if u had a 3.4-3.6l tp motor on the shelf i would drive down this weekend for it. I do know this is not how u run your buisness/shop and u understand why. I still may inquire about a core hook up but im not there yet and i dont want to waste anyones time. I also think that there r others that can give me a suitable product based in their experience level. Maybe its compromise that will bite me in the a$$ but if i am comfortable with the secret sauce from another builder i will use them. Just as u would expect me to trust what u r doing there r others that can be trusted too (hopefully). Im sure u know i am not going out and buying a steel lined block and building a motor as cheaply as possible. As always u r welcome to join in with your input even if others pull it off topic. Getting back to why my car is getting a new motor. This showed up today. Ohlin gt3 set up. Used a shop called 3DM Suspensions out of virginia. Very knowledgable and we figured out tge difference and the extra parts needed to make a gt3 kit work on a c2. Mainly because the only ohlin kits available for any 996 variant is the gt3 kit. At the time i didnt want to wait to sept. Know i could use the money

All the more motivation to get her back up. Barry is a good guy. I believe the GT3 rates are more aggressive than the C2, you’re going to dig it.

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yup stiffer and a bump up in valving too. Not quite to their new dedicated track shock rates so hopefully street drving wont be too bad.

It's all good. I think that people that can do this job themselves, should do the job themselves. I'm confident that you can do a better job that pretty much anything that you could buy. The problem that you are going to have now is getting parts. We made huge orders as the onset of Covid and have maintained really well because of it, and have stayed on top of ordering 1 year in advance. Every piston company is 12-16 weeks out, there's no timing chains, no rear main seals, and other parts are running out daily. Most are not getting replenished since the containers are sitting offshore and the ports can't handle the discharges. I see a lot of engines being built mostly from used parts really soon, since those that were not prepared cannot get new parts. Be very careful as a purchaser to ensure the build is photo documented, else you may end up with used parts that were supposed to be new. What we do isn't for everyone, it isn't even for the majority. If I see a deal on a core I will let you know.

Thanks for the vote of confidence and the heads up on parts. I figured it wasnt restriced to the construction industry.

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Absolutely!

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Material costs and availability is getting real old in that realm for me.

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The delayed response from 2020 has really hit. I knew it would, so we have been ok for now, and should be till the end of the year. I reallocated one of my employees to the role of only sourcing components because of this. She works 10 hour days making sure that we stay 6+ months ahead when it comes to having all the parts for every build.

As promised the rod and main bearing thicknesses. Im not really sure what they r suppose to be but there r mine at 200k. Can u find the bad main?

Now clean and torque up the crank carrier, and measure the housing bore diameters with a bore gauge in 3 different axes. Do this first without the main bearings fitted, then do the exact same thing with the bearings fitted to the positions they were removed from. This exercise will be enlightening. Record and share your values.

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Nope, across many sectors. I moonlight in the bike industry and critical drivetrain and brakes from major manufacturers are practically unavailable in the aftermarket. Bike Manufacturers get first shipments of the parts when and if they become available so they can ship product, but the downstream effect is that the shops are suffering due to lack of inventory to complete repairs. Customers are in a tough place as certain replacement parts have been like finding hens teeth, so they are sometimes off the bike or have to make due with lower quality stuff if they want to stay on the bike. Ford just announced temporary closing of 8 plants (!!!) due to chip shortages. This includes some F-150 production, so that's a HUGE tell in how the global supply chain has been affected. I've seen forecasts that Q2/Q3 22 is the earliest that things will be 'back to normal'.

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Sorry im not sure i have the patients. I have a feeling the crank carrier us out if wack at 200k miles and contributed to both the issue with the main and the rod bolt stretching. Also i didnt label the bearings. The block, crank and pistons will become an end table/wine bottle holder for the man cave.

Well if anyone cares this is what it looks like if u want to "put away" a m96. Now that i have cleared out room in the shop on to jeep repair so u can buy porsche stuff .

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It has been a double edged sword for the automotive/ motorcycle/ power sports industries. Since during the worst of Covid people had time to work on projects, drive cars, and recreate and could not do much else. This drove the business lime mad! The increased demand was equally met with a lack of workforce to create and ship parts. Now we have a global shipping crisis where ships can't be offloaded and turned around quickly enough. Due to this all the shipping containers are on the water, and there's a line to just be able to acquire a container for shipping. As an example I have 3 vehicles sitting at the port in Amsterdam, 4 tractors at the port in Livorno Italy, and 15 vintage Honda ATCs in Japan. I am in line for containers for all of these, and there are none. We have not been hurting for parts yet, and still haven't been a single day behind YET. We are killing it trying to source every part we need so it will arrive a minimum of 6 months before we need it. This is where the long backlog helps, as we have time and know exactly what we will need, and exactly when we need it for every engine. One benefit I have used is the relationship that we've built with wholesalers and importers by developing parts for them, and helping them when they have issues with production runs of parts that have issues. Last month we were having. timing chain shortage, and needed chains for the next 18 months of builds that were already allocated, and proposed as jobs. A distributor let us know that they had a pallet of them that had just landed, so I bought the whole thing. This will not get us to the finish line on chains though.. Every few days the supplies of another part run low, so the forecasting of what we need for the next 18 months is critical, so we stay on- time. Shipping costs are also insane. Since there's no containers, we are having to pay 4-5X more to have items shipped via air freight. June 1 I will make the decision to keep taking new orders, or to cease until the component issues are better, with more known pricing for Q3 of 2022, which is how far we are booked now. As it is now there's some engines that we will lose a significant amount of money on if we have to have parts shipped by air, and/ or pay the higher prices they are commanding. I will likely cease sales for 3-4 months to see what things look like. People need to be extremely concerned with purchasing these engines, getting a FULL LIST of exactly what components, and what brand of components will be used in the engines. We are already seeing corners getting cut with more used parts being put back into service, and cheap parts being used, because the good parts are not available. Engine programs that are haphazard are being consumed by their own lack of foresight, forethought, preparation, resources, common sense. This will continue. Put simply, **** poor preparation is leading to **** poor performance, and excuses. I knew all of this would happen, and I knew that we'd see a delayed Covid response that would lead to the virus being solved before our component and resource supplies would be. The day I saw them fogging the streets of Wuhan in February 2020 we started buy ing parts, and thinking about these issues then. That was not a day too early. I will say that even in chaos, opportunity still exists, and in many ways we have been able to capitalize on these issues. Time will tell if that is going to continue. I am not taking a single break from these battles, and I actually love the challenges.

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As others have posted here it is across all sectors. Not only hard goods but soft goods as well. My wife and I sell boots, our mfg told me last week, in September it was about $7000.00 US for a container from Southeast Asia to Boston. By December it was over $9000 US, February hit $11,000 US. There are ports around the world with product that has significant distribution problems. The Suez Canal only lasted a short time, but it put a huge ripple affect on import/export around the globe. The forecast in retail for soft goods is going to be very bumpy. Jake is pretty impressive with putting a person on sourcing products 6 months ahead. I wish we saw this coming, lowest availability for product in nearly 3 decades for our industry.

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I put Rebecca on this task 21 February of 2020. At that point I pulled her from managing the things associated with classes and support materials, since I knew we'd not be having any more hands on classes for at least a year. She had been my retail manager from 2004-2012 when I shut down parts sales, and she had always maintained a role of sourcing components as a collateral duty. Today all she does all day long is scrounge for parts.. I actually had anticipated that we were going to have component delivery issues like this in October of last year, but it didn't happen.It really kicked in around February of this year, and is looking grim for the foreseeable future. Pistons that used to be completed in 3 weeks are now 16 weeks IF you pay an expedite fee. Due to that every piston we need until August of 2022 is already on order, and has been. At some point it is definitely going to bite us on some job(s) but thinking ahead, and getting things before we need them will remain the key to mitigating these instances as much as possible. Yes, shipping containers are through the roof.. I used to ship a container from Amsterdam to Jacksonville for 1700.00 with my bulk discounts. That is now 4,700.00

I'm hoping the supply chain thing comes to an end soon and that the costs of materials returns to at least semi normality so that it doesn't become so expensive that the demand for goods and services dwindles due to inflation.

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This is exactly what I expect to occur, and we are prepared for. At some point the bubble will burst.

I don't depend upon new homes or buildings, though renovations are part of the business and that'll take a hit for sure. Plenty of service work, which I prefer anyway, should keep things going. Hopefully it just amounts to a slowdown or correction and not a nose dive.

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Things are booming too hard.. I'm no economist, but I am prepared for a big hit that lasts for a long time. This is why we are trying so hard to secure components for the long term. My company doubled revenue in the period of the last recession, and I plan to capitalize on what's coming this time as well.. Lots of time is spent praying, preparing, and thinking.

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Lumber is already backing back a bit, natural gas is going up. I�ll take a while but stuff will stabilize. Anyway yesterday autonation Ford offered me $35k for my 2019 F150 that I Paid $28,500 19 months ago mileage is 17,000, the problem is what I am going to drive in the meantime. We have seen these issues in the oil industry when force majeure is declared. Nothing new but it can definitely wreck a market.

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Domestic supplies will bounce back fairly soon I think.. The internationally sourced components will take longer, which is why we are focusing on them. A ton of our stuff is manufactured in USA, so that helps. Staple items like timing chains, gaskets, water pumps, and heat exchangers are an issue.

Well getting back to our origionally scheduled program. i have made a decision on the direction im going and placed a deposit on the fix.

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Oh? did you buy that GT3 on Pcarmarket?

It's going to be tough to sell my pride and joy...happy its going to such a good home. He's going to run way faster lap times with it than I did. Was I not supposed to tell ?

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I dont think so never been on pcarmarket u got a link? Maybe i can sell a kidney or 2 to get it.

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the auction finished today and you said you arranged a fix today, so I figured you must've bought this. https://www.pcarmarket.com/auction/2...che-996-gt3-2/

Plain sheet of 1/2" CDX plywood,, $79.95 2x6x8' Studs $19.76 EACH!!! Freeking OSP if 70 bucks a sheet. And this is all withing 50 miles of the plant that makes it.. All the shipping companies in Portland are either in what they call "embargo",, IE they are not allowed to accept a freight order till they empty a certain percentage of their warehouse, or they are not in trouble but a crate that would have cost 500 to get across country even a couple months ago is now $2100. Its UGLY out there.. One local dock manager told me 50% of his space is full of stuff they cant deliver because the businesses are either closed temporarily or permanently.. He said they figure they have about 25 Million in backed up storage fees that they will never collect.. For 1 company.. Its mind boggling.

So, what's the solution?

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holy cow i would need at least 4 kidneys to even get close to that one Im thinking ill call it project "The good, the bad a$$ and the ugly". Meh maybe not as that doesnt really roll off the tonge.

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Seems like we have a bit of economic bifurcation and a whole lotta supply chain disruption.

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https://www.thedrive.com/news/40379/...x-speed-manual Kia Stinger GT swap?

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I wish i would have seen this earlier. I would have added it to the possibilities list. something about korean power in a german car just doesnt seem right. And that comimg from a guy that thinks its ok to stuff amerucan mussle into anything.

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So a Chevy engine is your next step?

Do tell!! Happy you found the solution this quickly! Or will there be a grand reveal once all done? I'd chip in a kidney for that GT3 but I think even then we'd be short. The guy that bought it was super motivated.

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Its kinda like that stupid show The Masked Singer, some things are clues some r not. I deffinately will not make the reveil at the end, but im enjoyjng keeping u guys in the the commercial break for now.

All this talk about parts shortages could make the decision on what I am going to do easier to make. I have been going back and forth between a complete overhaul of the engine in my Coupe or replacing it with the engine out of my Cabriolet. The Coupe is showing signs of either a cracked cylinder or head so needs to be replaced. The Cab has a tainted title due to it being a theft recover and that along with the Tip make it almost worthless to sell. If I wont be able to get parts for a while maybe I will put the Cab engine in, part out the Cab, and start rebuilding the Coupe engine to put in later. I was thinking about a 3.8 built using Jakes videos would be nice.

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i think the parts thing is a short term issue but i like your though process. i also think anything from a 3.4-3.8 home built reman with good parts would be an excelant choice for a street car.... maybe not for a car that sees the track, even if thats only a few times a year. (like my car)

Please make another 13b swapped 911.

Aaron will blow up the rotary just by looking at it. Like instantaneous combustion.

Always liked the shape of the Delorean, but the engine is anemic. That Kia swap was an interesting read. Buick swap was another idea for those I hadn�t thought of.

Well i think its time to spill the beans, but first my path to the decision. It started with a lot if research on not only who could build a motor but also how to fix the deficiencies. My goal was to find a motor that would survive a dozen de days and 5k miles of normal driving a year. So lets start with who could build a motor. After doing my research i contacted a few shops close with in driving range. First was SSI Motorsports in MD, then Autometrics in SC and Musante Motorsports in CT. These shops were recommended by trusted sources. I also considered Chris from CTS but his shop was to far away so i did not was to waste his time and Jake but his time frame doesnt work so he was not contacted either. Pricing ranged from $17-25k for a replacement motor and core. Some shops had more upgrades then others but the labor was about the same. It was basically a, u get what u pay for build with these shops. I could also build the motor myself with some healthy upgrades for $12-15k with parts from LN Engineering. Now on to the deficiencies. First there is the cylinder coatings, this is easily fixed with full nickies or nickasil coatings. I learned a lot about who does this and the process. I would recommend that anyone that has a motor built understand how this is done. Second issue is the big one... the reason why my motor failed, all be it at 200k but there r many that have failed sooner due to poor oil pressure in high g turns. Granted this is mostly an issue with cars that go on the track, but thats what these cars were built for.....right? If u r following zbombs thread or this poor guys thread https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...il-filter.html , its not if but when the track will kill our motors. There is a fair amount of research out there some vendors r happy to share, some not and even the "best" built m96s have reported pressure drops. All the builders i talked with say they can make a m96 last on the track, but for how long? Probably as long as their warrentee and then what? U r back where u started buying another $17-25k motor. The reality that has hit many before me is its just not wise to track a m96 motor, therefore spending money to rebuild seems like a bad idea. Now what to do? I guess its time for a motor swap. I actually bought this car cheap with an inop motor to put an ls into it. The issue i have now is that after driving the car for 3 years and a bunch of track days is 450-500hp with no nanny controls would probably scare the schites creek out of me on the track. Remember i want the car to do what its great at both on the street and the track. There is aways the 3.8l sc chevy motor. I did drive out to MI to help ttt123 wire his up, but nah... not enough rpm. There were a few other exotic suggestions but support was lacking. What to do, what to, what to do. Maybe ill just put the motor in the car that all c2s should have had from the beginning and as luck would have it the Good, the Bad A$$ and the Ugly happened. It took some work and i spent a little more then i wanted but in this market i expected to. Its also the fastest way i can get the car going again and not forfeit track fees. Ill be picking it all up in about 10 days. the Good the Bad A$$ and the Ugly

As Andy Warhol used to say, and he never said much, "Wow."

50 years from now..... gee should have put a front tub in that car....

So project "Read headed step child" is born, well because my car is red and im gonna beat on it like a ... well u know. Yea its a little redneck for a porsche build but it just seemed right. The plan is to swap in what i need to get the powertrsin going and maybe the brakes and wheel carriers. Then sell off the rest. If my math is correct i should be in it for less then a good m96 reman. Ill try to keep good records but im a much better mechanic then i am an accountant.

Congrats! Perfect solution. Let me know what parts you are looking to get rid of when you are ready. I am always looking for things.

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its all about the cost differential between a savage tile and the cost of a repaired gt3 compaired a to a well swaped meztker motor into a clean titled c2. Also the ability to sell off the remainder. U r welcome to buy the chassis and make something of it. Other then the color, seal grey, its a fairy low optioned run if the mill car with 70k on the clock. The insurance company totaled it so u know it aint gonna be cheap to fix.

FUN project! Good luck!

THIS - This right here, is how you take blown motor lemons - and turn them into sweet, sweet, GT3 lemonade. Well played Brother.

So this will bolt up for the most part? Turbo motor without the turbo? What's the difference in power between this and the M96?

Now, it really gets interesting!

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I believe the engine to be rated at 380 HP with a redline of 8K.... I just had a wave of jealousy overcome me as I was typing the above....

So as I understand this, different motor without IMSB issue, more power out of the box, fits, and also less oil pressure issues? Sounds like a well thought out plan.

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The motor does not share many, if any of the design flaws in the M96. It is NOT a "bolt in" affair - DJ will figure out what he needs to do, getting it physically in the car should be of little issue for him. As he acquired the full donor chassis - he will have everything required to make it run (it ran in the car he's getting), and I think he has a pretty good idea of what it will take to get there. Hopefully, he will provide some detail of the path as he works through it so maybe more people could consider engine swaps a viable possibility and not be required to move forward with a donor chassis, but a good idea of what components beyond the engine / gearbox solution are required.

Sweeeet find ,fun project.Thanks for bringing us along for the ride.

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So one of the reasons people dont try this swap is avalabilty, the other is that u need an expensive gear box too (stronger and has a cooler). Also since my car is a mk1 i need to swap the entire chassis harness, cluster and hvac controls. To physically bolt the motor in i need to swap or modify the motor mount structure on the tub. The gt3 shares the turbo and c4s sheet metal in the engine bay. Its slightly different then the c2/c4 accross the rear support. There is also a bump in the firewall for the gt3 oil cooler. Both these items can be fabricated, taken from the donor or purchased from a dismantler for a low cost. I will have to get all the pieces to make a decision. i will need to swap some hoses for ac, coolant and ps (but i may go cup car electric). The fuel sender may not read correct as the donor has a c4s style tank but thats no big deal. This is why i really wanted the donor so i didnt get nickle and dimed into the poor house. All in all it wil be one of the simplest motor swaps i have attempted..... hopefully. Its been done before but there isnt a ton of pics or info on the process but i hope to document it for the next guy.

I can assure you that you WILL NOT have oil pressure issues with this engine. I can assure you that you WILL find it's great on the track. I'm rather jealous of your new G50 gearbox.

This is awesome and not what I was expecting but probably the best and smartest move you could have made! Looking forward to seeing the process unfold.

Sweet. I did some work on a converted 996 with a Gt3 engine a few years ago (money shifted it) . Pay attention to the pinouts on the X59 1/2 cannon plugs in the engine bay. If my memory serves me right there's a couple of pins in a different location than the base Carrera. Have fun!

200k on a tracked car ..who says these engines don't last ... an engine / car well deserving of a 4.0 rebuild .

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Im gonna cheat. Im swapping the entire harness, motor and chassis to the dash. The mk1 stuff has too many missing wires. Pop in once in a while. I shoud have a fair amount of pics. I hope to make it look factory. Well i dint think the car was tracked for 200k miles. I got the car at 198k and blew it up at 203k with 8 track days. Im pretty sure the original owner put some love into it to make it last. I got the car with no records so i only have assumptions.

Not long ago I said you were "most improved wrench on RL", well, you have just moved to head of the class !!!

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Thx, im shooting for a 30 day turn around. If i get ut done ill except the front row chair.

30 day turn around is very ambitious. Especially if you only work on it in the evenings and weekends. I'd take a week vacation...or two. Good luck! Looking forward to seeing the progress. I'd definitely be interested in some GT3 interior parts. Like the carpeted area behind the front seats.

Last time I challenged dj to something he smoked me in a lug nut vs. lug bolt challenge... and the whole world could see it... Learned my lesson and this time, I’m going with - total confidence in him to get it done as fast as he says he wants to 🙂

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Ha, I'm definitely not challenging him to an engine swap contest!!

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the rear seat delete kit is the hottest part of this part out. Im not going to commit anything to anyone until i get the car. Fyi, I think the interior color is grey. 30 day is ambitious but im motivated .

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Put it on Bring a Trailer or eBay...just let me know where to bid. Waiting for the pictures to show up...

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Funny how a GT3 motor under your *** can provide you with just the right motivation to wrench on a car for every possible minute for as long as it takes to fire it up and go WOT to 8K 🤙

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Did you ever get rid of your GT3 Cup car engine?

I haven�t chimed in on this thread but two thumbs up on the GT3 swap- it is such a cool idea. I don�t know what a salvage GT costs but considering the costs of a rebuilt M96; I have to imagine it�s somewhat cost competitive. Keep us in the loop on how it goes!

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soon, one of the reasons i held onto the secret so long was i wanted to have the car first but i couldnt wait any longer i plan on putting the numbers out there when i get a little further into it. I hope to be into it for less then a quality rebuild of the m96.

I'd be tempted to swap the roof and headliner too.

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weirdly enough i really enjoy my sunroof. My goals r not to lighten my car to cup car weights (like zbomb), but to enjoy it on the street and track. the headliner will be 4 sale too.

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Interested in the headliner. Sunroof delete was on my list of "more ridiculous" ideas, but...

I have dibs on the headliner already so everyone back off. I'll only be subsidizing half his donor car to get the headliner...

Arm wrestling for headliners?

I may have an inside line what Ryan is willing to do for the headliner... This is worse than 2 ladies going for the last item on the shelf. Much. Much. Worse. I will kindly suggest to all - smile and step slowly away from the headliner unless you want to see the very worst of Ryan come out ...

Welcome to the Thunderdome.....2 men enter, 1 man leaves.

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Nah. We're iguana wrestling for it. You Tube

So after a 16hr trip south to Tampa i got this secured on the toter. I probably paid too much for it but its gonna make my car a kick *** clone. Ill be home on sunday and then the swap will be on like donkey kong.

good to have possession...

I get dibs on the wheels. The earlier picture didn't have GT3 wheels. What happened?

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It was part of the sale to get the factory wheels. I havent looked at them closely but they look in decent shape. They will be 4 sale as i think i like my sport technos better. Shoot me a pm, not sure about pricing in anything at this point.

Probably should put the gt3 car back together with its original VIN. The value of the original car salvage or not will easily outweigh the value of the clone. doesn�t really look that bad, but not lots of pictures. I have plenty of Bastard cars, good looking and performing cars, but hard to sell.

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looking at that if it is a true gt3 car, I would definitely put that one back with the gt3 vin. Not a gt3 car part it out

Meh its getting parted out. I have run thr numbers and they dont work for keep the car in tact. There is a lot of small body damage that would really add up if u wanted it to be a good gt3 car. The chassis will go to a race car team to pull it out and have in hand for a spare. A well done c2 with a gt3 motor, trans, brakes and uprights would still be worth more then i would have into both cars after the part out.

Back from tampa and already on the lift. Should have most of it stripped out tomor evening.

1 million likes... Get after it brother !

Not wasting any time - love it!

Is the rear wing damaged?

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nope in perfect shape. I had to remove it because of how we loaded it on the truck backward. There is a tire rack on headache rack of the rollback that it didnt fit under. I have to decide if im gonna modify my areo wing or repaint the gt3 wing. It just depends on how much money i can get for each and how much i need to recoup.

Great. So put me down for the headliner and wing now. Too many bad influences on here.

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This forum sure can cost you lots of cash.

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we can talk about the wing, but the headliner may be spoken for. i plan to be fair about selling stuff (ill be researching the used part market) but i will need to make as much as i can off the remnants......let the bidding begin .

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De Jeeper Under The Thunderdome!

Rock n roll!! Is there a line on how long it will take to have it running? I'm in for $5 by the 27th.

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can you tell us what the cost of the wreck car gt3 was???

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Im hoping for this. I am going to the beach that week for the 4th and it will drive me nuts all week if its not done. Yea, im not shy about the costs. It was $50k for the whole car. He was offering the motor/trans for $32k. It really should have been $40-45k but this market is crazy. I should be able to get $20k back out of it and still keep the uprights and brakes. I just didnt want to be nickled and dimed by small parts. There is not really a way to do the swap with out the whole thing. Oh and i should be able to get $5-10k out from selling other parts off my car. My dream would be to keep all the parts i want off the car and net $20-25k not sure that will happen.

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Thanks for the details. You are an awesome guy. I can definitely understand the issue of having it done prior to vacation. I�m in south Padre Island with my family and no one is going to screw my fun. Honestly if i wanted I could have a shop store and prepare my car every time I want to have a tantrum in the car but that�s not me,I�m trying to live my life like any day is the last one of my life, my sister passed away at 47 in McKinney Texas. So I feel like I�m in borrowed time and I�m going to live it up cheers. Barbecue rib and chicken for dinner. 4 beers to washed it down. So happy hour $0.75 oyster, $2.50 bottle domestics, fried alligator, boudin, stuffed jalape�os with seafood and bacon, if you go , go there early happy hour 4 to 6. Don�t know about these crap of $6 for a Miller lite in the pool area. I�ll go up the private beach and get drunk on my coolers. Have two cases of miller lite and a case of IPAS. The hotel is full of Asians, I can handle Spanish,Portuguese, Italian And French even a bit of Mandarin Chinese. But these is out of my league.!

Well humid as hell in the mid-atlantic today but i got the motor out and trans split after work tonight. No real big surprises. I have to go over to the gt3 forum and see and see whats worth doing while its out. I was told the clutch has less then 15k in it so im gonna leave it alone. The coolant pipes are welded already with what looks like the shark works kit. Saves me some money and time.

So, the mounting differences discussed earlier, is it the transmission end or the other end?

Its the motor mount location. I think the trans location is the same but the mount is different. Wont know for sure till i put it in. Standard c2 motor mount Gt3 mounts

Awesome progress dude !

Any chance the sheet metal part that the motor bolts to is just different to mate up with the mounts in the body? Wishful thinking?

No im pretty sure the motor is longer and thats why that cross piece is more narrow. The motor mounts actually hang off that crossmember sheet metal. Im pretty sure ill order the section from la dismantler and weld it in. It will guarentee the motor goes in the correct spot and look factory.

I have a couple of 996 Turbos. Same engine. You might want to change all the small coolant hoses on the engine. There are quite a few that can't be reached with the engine in the car. I would change all the O-rings on the oil cooler - 4 on the oil cooler and 4 on the bracket. These also require engine removal to access. With the pipes welded you should otherwise be all set. Nothing in the engine is going to wear out; my 180k mile engine is perfect inside, even the chain guides look new. Changing the water pump you could consider. They do last a long time. No need to mess with the thermostat, no low temp thermostat is needed or even available.

Dare I ask what the price difference is between a crate motor (gt3 non turbo) and a M96?

Sure! GT3 crate motor: 996-100-979-01 $63,899.54 M96.03: 996-100-996-29 $27,989.91

Ouch.

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Hey, you can get it on sale from Sunset for $54K 🙂 https://www.sunsetporscheparts.com/o...ne-99610097901

Hah you just beat me to it! M96 was seen for about $25k. Question is whether they are actually in stock.

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So many subtle differences in these cars. The GT3 and the GT2 use the same part here, the Turbo a different part and I can't understand why. The engine assembly is the same.

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this is a real interesting thing. The turbo, gt2 and gt3 all have the same motor mount plate but u r right the turbo uses a different mount on the body side. All 3 and the c2 share the body panel behind the chassis motor mount. The actual motor mounts r also different numbers between the gt and turbos but they look the same. The gts look like thet hold the mount higher on the body side with a spacer. im betting it can all go together if the right parts r used

GT3 mount being higher than the turbo possibly related to the solid bushing subframe?

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i can measure tomor but the gt3 frame looks to have that space casted into it. I may need a pic from someone with a turbo to see if they use a spacer under the mount. It may be that the gt2 and 3 r based off the c4 chassis and not the widebody.....eventhough the gt2 is a wb. i really dont want to remove the mounts from the gt3 chassis but i may have to if cant find a reasonably priced cut out off a junk car. Or ill put my fabrication hat on

The turbo and gt2 use the same motor mount and both have a spacer under the motor mount. I'll take some pictures later. I think the difference is because the gt3 is a narrowbody and the turbo/gt2 are widebody.

Thx, Yea but the gt2 uses the same chassis sheat metal mount as the gt3. Just seams weird it share the turbo mount.

@3/98 911 coupe can you keep your travel blog entries out of the technical discussions? Make your own build thread and you can post all your random musings to your heart's content there.

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I don't know what they were thinking. Maybe because the GT2 is actually a rear wheel drive Turbo chassis with no provision for the front wheel drive hardware, so they used the GT3 panel? With the heavier Turbo engine so they used the Turbo motor mounts? Anyway the rennline motor mounts are supposed to work on GT2 and GT3 and Turbo so they must be compatible. I am sure you can source that panel from a Turbo wreck and make it work properly.

I actually found a new turbo panel for less in ebay then the yard will cut it out for. I may just remove my c2 mounts and alter/weld them into the correct position. Need to do more research and measuring.

Looking at the GT3 sheetmetal, I'm guessing the mount goes into the rounded corner area, secured by two bolts? I was confused as to how this worked, looking for a pocket or recess like the standard car has.

Yea there is no "cup". There is an aluminum adaptor that goes in top of the sheet metal that has 3 holes. The middle hole secures the adaptor, the 2 outside holes allow the motor mount bolts to fo through them. The mount kind of floats. Ill get a pic.

Conceptually that makes more sense and ultimately the location of the transmission side cv joints is what needs to be replicated.

@De Jeeper are you keeping track of hours on this? Be nice to know what this bad *** project is gonna "cost" you not in $$$.

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Not really but ill try to approximate. Not really good keeping a time sheet. Im guessing ill have around 150hrs into it. At $100/hr that would be on par of a renegade ls swap or even a standard mk2 motor into a mk1.

I don't have a decent picture handy, the picture above is identical to the Turbo motor mount setup. Regarding positioning the CV joints. The front trans mount on all 996.2 Tiptronic cars with the Mercedes 722.6 transmission is identical. This includes C2/C4/C4S/Turbos. The 722.6 Tiptronic transmission mount is the same as the G50 manual transmission mount (GT2/GT3/Turbo). The C2 body sheetmetal in the floorpan area is the same for 996.1 and 996.2. So, we can say that the attach point for the front trans mount is in the same place. I'm talking about the two threaded studs sticking out of the floorpan. The Tiptronic/G50 trans mount uses a curved metal bar that bolts to the floorpan, then the trans mount bolts to the curved metal bar. I believe that if you swap the curved metal bar over you will force the CV joints to be in the correct location. Then the engine mounts can end up wherever they may want to be and everything will be in alignment.

Oh, obviously you'll need to swap all the coolant hard lines from the center rubber hose back. I believe the front hard and soft lines are the same for all 2-radiator setup cars.

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i agree with both your posts entirely. The above statement is most important to me. Is there any way possible you can get me a pic if the mount area? All the pet drawings show that part as being different both in numbers and pictures. I have found that section at a wrecking yard and may want to get it but im unsure if it will work nevermind, i found this and it clearly shows the mounts to be the same. I wonder why the gt3 and turbo have different part #s? https://www.rmeuropean.com/porsche-996-turbo-engine-mount-replacement.aspx

I have been dreaming and waiting for someone to do and accomplish this transition. GT3 drivetrain into a MK1996. Awesome. Following. Best wishes.

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Here's what I think: The Turbo uses a hydraulic motor mount, filled with fluid to minimize NVH. The GT2 and GT3 use a stiffer motor mount, as NVH is less of a concern. I am absolutely certain the Turbo uses a hydraulic motor mount as I have changed them on both of mine. Not sure about the GT2 and GT3 though.

man, this is cool stuff!!! awesome

Everything up front, in back and underneath is gutted. Hopefully ill have enouh time tomor to stip the interior. There is a ton of stuff in these cars. Where i ended up tonight

Huge work. Huge payoff. Pay to play.

Did a swich-er-roo and now they r stacked. Gonna start pulling the interior on the gt3 and dropping the fuel tank in the c2. I need to see what needs to be done for the sender/pump and 2 of the supply lines need to be swapped. Also the metal tubes that go to the heater core need to be swapped. Only way to pull them is to remove the tank. Looks like the abs is different too. The gt3 has 2 lines that go to the back and my car only has one. I wasnt really sure if the gt3 computers would play with my c2 abs anyways so i think i will just swap it out. The power steering, clutch and ac lines will just bolt on at the connection points under the car. This will save a lot if time.

The GT3 ABS is light years better than the ABS on any other 996 except perhaps the GT2 or the 996 Cup cars. You will not be disappointed at swapping it. If you're using the GT3 instrument cluster you should swap the fuel tank, if you can, or else the gas gauge will not read correctly. I'm sure you know that already. Unless it has been replaced the GT3 rear window is thinner, lighter glass. I believe the other windows are the same as any 996.

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I am using the gt3 cluster, but im not sure the tank will fit my car. Its based off the c4 chassis and the frunk is very different. Im hoping i can modify the sending unit so it fits my tank. It will read the level correctly but if the computer does a "distance to empty" that will be off because of the smalller capacity. Fyi the sender on the gt3 is 10-300 ohms. 10ohms is full. Still need to check my c2. Good to know on the glass but dont know if a swap out is in the budget. Dint think i want diy the glass.

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True on both counts. I keep forgetting the RWD GT3 is based on the AWD chassis. Mostly I wanted to make sure you knew, in case you decide to cut out and sell the glass separately. I bet the GT3 guys would like to have it.

Entire harness is out. A few more hours and the car will be a shell.

Got a ton of little stuff done but it doesnt translate well into pictures. I order all new coolant and vacuum lines for the motor but some of its has to come from germany. I may have to drop the motor this winter to finish because im not gonna wait for it. Im also still waiting on LA dismantlers to confirm they can get me the motor mounts and firewall bump out. Today i got my suspension out, fuel, ac, clutch, ps and brake lines converted over. The good news is the gt2-3 use a c2 tank even though they r in a c4 chassis. Im gonna use the gt3 tank because the fuel pump is different and im.not sure if it will mount into my c2 tank. Hopefully ill have the interior stripped and some if the harness swapped tomor. Same tanks Gt3 uprights r much bigger then the c2 stuff How tonight ended

Awesome progress dude !

Nice job! I am surprised at the hoses etc. needing to come from Germany. If you are in a bind and need a hose I have a couple used sets off of Turbo motors, most of which should be same as the GT3. Oh, one thing to watch is if any hoses are superseded to 997 part numbers. Some of the 997 part# hoses are longer than the 996 part# hoses and will need to be trimmed to fit. So don't toss your old hoses yet. This one caused me real problems. It's one of the undercar hoses next to the trans. The 997 part was so long it was kinked when I installed it and totally blocked the flow to the rads.

Thanks. All of the coolant hoses r available except 2. One was discoed with no update and 1 is zero in the entire system. The other parts r vacuum and emmisions stuff. I placed a 135 item order that included clamps and fittings so i dont think the number of unavailable parts is bad. Im trying to get those 2 hoses through autoatlanta.... not sure if a different region can get them.

Got part numbers for the 2 hoses? Maybe someone here can help you find them.

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99710614690 DISCONTINUED 996-110-654-91 NO STOCK ANYWHERE Autoatlanta should send me an availability alert in monday but if someone has a nos or a connection i would be interested.

996-110-654-91 NO STOCK ANYWHERE -> This one is the vacuum hose for the brake booster, I would not worry about reusing it. If it's no good some 5/8 emissions hose should do the trick. Or 1/2" whatever it is. 997-106-146-90 DISCO -> I can't find this one in my parts catalog, it just states "vent hose tunnel". I wanted to look up the parts diagram to see what it is. I have seen that is the end of the part number is -90 through -99 it's typically a GT2/GT3 only part and will be harder to find.

Yea im not overly concermed by not getting those hoses. It was a good sunday. Got the interior stripped in my car. Yes the car was repainted hence the silver inside.ill have the dash and harness out tonight.

DJ you are a hero, this is an amazing thread. Thanks for taking us through your journey. It’s funny but this post reminds me of this other crazy build thread in the 997 forum — https://rennlist.com/forums/997-foru...ger-turbo.html . Except your build is actually being done right 😂

Well last night for my birthday i got the rest of the dash out. Today i found out LA Dismantlers has the sheet metal i need but they want to sell me the back half if the car and its about $500 more then i want to pay. I am trying to negotiate (convince) them to just take a sawsall or grinder to the sections i need. Since they said most if the item cost is labor to cut the car in half i figure it would only take an hour to cut out the parts i need. Tonight ill be seperating my original harness to add the sunroof, frunk amp and maybe the memory seat function back into the gt3 harness. At first look the option wiring is "bundled" and added to the main harness and wrapped. Im hoping to cut the wrap open, pull the needed wires and maybe have to de-pin a few wires from the ralay and fuse box. Fingers crosses.

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First of all, Happy Birthday. Secondly, can't get over the progress you are making...

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thanks and thanks. I gots no kids and a forgiving wife so i can spend my evenings in the garage. So tonight i finished removing the 3 wiring "systems" from my c2 harness that i wanted to swap to the gt3. I wanted to add back in the memory seats, stereo and sunroof wiring. The gt3 had manual seats but i didnt get the factory seats. It came with power recarros, the stereo was very base level and of course no gt3 had a sunroof. I was able ro open up the harness, seperate and de-pin all 3 with the help of the bentley book. Im gonna wrap them and piggy back them onto the gt3 harness. I will have to re-pin a few things in the door connections for the memory mirrors. Im also gonna keep my cable frunk and trunk release. All i have to do is ignore the switches and keep my y2k latches with the micro switches hooked up and the alarm will be happy. It looks like a mess but its sorted and labled. Also after dealing with LA Dismantlers for 2+ weeks trying to get them to price and remove the motor mounts and firewall bump from a t-boned turbo they decided the only way they would do it was to cut the car on half and send it to me. As u can imagine the cost was high but not really that bad for half a car but the shipping cross county would kill me. RyanH offered to cut the parts out and send them as he is close but its a pita and i was still gonna pay too much. Not trying to slam LAD but i was bumbed they would just spend an hour and cut the parts out for a fair price. So on a hope and a prayer i called DC Auto in NC. 2 weeks ago the salesman said they didnt have a car they would cut up but this time i confused the him enough that he sent me to the yard boss. This guy Randy kicks a$$. He understood exactly what i wanted and within 2 hrs and 4 emails i had purchaced the parts for 65% of the price. Goal is to have the dash, wiring and suspension back in this weekend. It wont be all finished as im still waiting on some parts but hopefully it will roll. The current mess.

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Do you ever sleep? Respect!

DJ you are scaring the F**K out of most 996 owners with those pics...lol But I know you can handle it , Roll On !!

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Ill sleep when im dead . Its funny, i dont find this kind of thing difficult. First its a german car, its assembled logically and second someone put it together the first time so there is no reason it cant be done a second time. With the electrical wiring i just study the diagrams, making notes, go out and verify everything and then with a lot of patients i identify and tag all the locations. It takes a lot of patients and concentration. I dont even turn on the radio for this part. Im excited to start putting it back together.

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My OCD tendencies just stopped my heart momentarily.

It�s true. My buddy�s 1980 Polish Fiat needed the alternator removed, so we had to take the exhaust, cooling fan shroud, front sway bar, exhaust manifold - all off just to remove the alternator. And no, it�s not a small, tight engine compartment. Looked like there was plenty of room, but it wasn�t designed well.

Well another busy week and weekend. Got the front harness in except the headlight area. Needs some repinning, all the wires r the same but they roughted them differently in the c4 chassis. Plus the litronic module is in the frunk now and not behind the pass side airbag as it was in my y2k. Dash is ready for the pad but not gonna do it until im done cuttung and welding in the fire wall panel. It should be in by end if this week. Also the cowl area and abs, mc, booster are back together. Its nice putting parts back into the car. I can confirm that the gt3 tank is the same dimensionally as the c2 tank. Its installed along with the filler and emisions hoses. Does anyone know were this ground goes. Im sure ill have to take some stuff apart to get to it but 2 steps foward one step back.

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That's some progress, you're motivated that's for sure. What needs cutting up front? I didn't see any differences in the parts catalog. I have no idea, I don't have a wiring diagram for a GT3. It's a hefty brown wire though. The only thing I can think of that would need that size, in that location, is the radiator fan. Possibly the headlight, it looks heavier than needed for a headlight though.

Its deffinately a ground and im.pretty sure its for the fuel door or some sensor by the fuel door. The issue with the schematic is its hard to find the end of the wire if u dont know what system its for

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I think that is the ground wire for the filler tank neck. I did not realize the filler tank neck has a ground, but there it is listed in the ground schematics.

I think it should have one of these on the end of it, so maybe grounds behind the fuel door somewhere?

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I only know the answer to this as I recently replace the vent valve on my TT. See pic. The ground attaches to the bracket bolt. Chances are the vent valve that attaches to the filler neck was replaced at some point.

Thx guys, this all makes sense. The gt3 did not have the valve because if the accident damage and mine was not in good shape and broke apart upon removal. This is why i never saw the connection. Ill probably just solder on a ring terminal or make a jumper. That pic is of my new fuel valve so it should be easy to attach.

We can go on for 20 pages of speculation and analysis, and still miss the point. If this happened in the outer loop of Watkins Glen, the air-oil separator failed. Hydrolock broke the engine. If you're tracking a 996, you need the well documented IMS upgrade, and an upgrade to the Motorsports AOS.

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Or u can actually read the thread and look at the pics of the dissasambled motor. It had a uaos, with no oil in the resi, and a dual row LNE retrofit ims bearing. It was confirmed with them that it was within its lifespan and waa perfect. it was not the aos or the ims. It was the classic poor oiling of the rods over the lifespan of a 200mile motor. The #1 rod seized, it snapped, piston dropped below the cyl.wall, it got pushed back up by the broken rod and destroyed the cyl wall. This is not assumption or speculation.

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Lot of ways to kill an engine. Old age coupled with poor oiling is certainly one of them.

Sorry for the lack of updates last week. Even i have to take a vacation now and then. I did get my parts from DC Auto, those guys kick but for used parts. They sent exactly what i needed at a resonable price and packaged read well. Motor mounts and firewall plate. Vacation spot, the gooldish one is my street jeep.

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that's what it's like on my 944 turbo engine. take everything off... cool swap project. Did I misunderstand or do you think the value of the stripped GT3 chassis is worth $20K?

Nice YJ Jeeper!

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I doubt its worth $20k but it has a lot of value fixed. Ill do the body work on it later this year amd put it up for sale with a salvage title. There is a bare chassis for sale now for $15k with no glass or doors and it looks like there is interest in it. Its a lot cheaper to swap your race car stuff into a new chassis then rebuild a car thats been put into the wall.

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Assateague Island?

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close... cape henlopen. Stayed at the rv sites inside the park for a week.

Stripped the c2 motor mounts and moched up the new ones last night.

Dude - your workmanship and the whole approach to this project is seriously impressive! Look forward to this thing being back on the road

When I commented a few days ago, I didn't mean to make light of the situation, or doubt your conclusion. I was trying to offer more data points for all readers to benefit from. When I mentioned the IMS, it was just to reiterate how important it is to do on an M96, not that the IMS failure in and of itself is the catastrophe, but all the upstream damage it does to the valves/piston etc. Its the collateral damage that it does. Its the same thing with the AOS. When I first read your post,I saw the photo of the ruptured AOS, and without specific reference to the upgraded Porsche Motorsports version. All of the 996's will experience failures of the stock AOS in right hand high-G load corners, whether on street tires or not. The outer loop at The Glen, given its banking, qualifies as a high G load corner. But here's what happens. When the AOS fails, it creates an immediate vacuum that sucks a quart, two, or maybe more of oil from the sump up into the intake manifold. It's the double whammy on the engine; the hydraulic pressures in the cylinder pushing down on the piston/rod, at the same time lots of oil is no longer in the sump, which is already G loaded, created oil starvation. The Motorsports AOS is roughly $1000, where the stock part is around $250. A big difference, but again, if one is taking a 996 to the track, its a must. Every since I put one in my car, roughly 10 years ago, I've had no AOS issues, and I've covered over 25,000 race miles. I feel bad for anyone who suffers engine failure, including the OP. There's a lot of things on track we can't control. But for the things we can; if the oil pressure sending unit is old and/or suspect, replace it. Its cheap and easy, and where it may not solve a more complex oiling issue, the problem more often than not is just the sending unit; upgrade to the LN IMS; upgrade to the Motorsports AOS. Hope this helps.

Your points on the aos and imsb r well documented on this board and in my case had no bearing on the failure. U r correct that these 2 things need to be addressed for track cars. U seem to push the motorsports aos because it has served u well but i encourage u to learn about the uaos system at about half the price of the motorsports unit and it has better protections. The blown out aos bellow in the early pics was most likely caused by the combustion pressure escaping cly 1 as it dropped the piston. Its a well sealed motor and its the weakest containment piece if u pressurise the crank case.

Bearings... they need oil, like all the time.

Looking forward to seeing those new mounts welded in.

Well only had about an hour to work on it tonight. Its half price margeritas at the local mexican joint and its stinkin hot/humid. I did get the other side motor mount seperated from the DC Auto cut and i got the firewall bump removed too. A little trimming and the left over piece will make for a good template for the cut on my c2. I hope to have it fitted, cut and welded tomor.

Fire wall is welded up, just need to get to the motor mounts. I used a small air powered recirpicating saw to make the cut. Had the local Napa paint mix me up some single stage in a areosol can to match the interior and trunk Artic silver. Once painted it will look factory-ish. Mock up using the cut out from DC Auto Sharpie lined and ready dor cutting Hole is cut Test fit Welded in View from the trunk. This side will get seam sealed.

Also started chemical stripping the cage. The paint on it was not done well. It will get painted black.

Amazing work!

Thx. Motor mount done. Just need paint.

looks good. you can buy 2K epoxy primer from Eastwood before applying the paint

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U make a good point, most people forget this step. i did pick up some self etching primer from the paint store. Its gonna get a real good cleaning and coated tonight.

Best 996 build thread ever ! The fab work is so cool - boss work Aaron.

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The trIck to good fab work is slighty blurry pics . Actually im real happy with the fit and finish. Hopefully it will look like a sleeper mk1, gt3 when im done.

Just to give you a little more motivation ( not like you really need it ) but your commitment and speed on this are impressive !!!

So what part of the Metzger motor or components require the change in the firewall. What kind of welder set up do you have?

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The oil tank as its a dry sump motor I have a millermatic 35 mig from the mid 80"s. Old school 220v transformer power supply welder. I also have a miller 215 autoset that i use for stainless tig or mig and aluminum via a spoll gun. I should have used the 215 for the light guage material but i was tio lazy to convert it over to mild steel.

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+1. I love involved project threads like this.

Finished up the front wiring and started putting the front end together. Found out this car has super fancy RS front uprights. The CO's are Ohlins gt3 ser up, terett tops and sway bar mounts. I swapped in my coffins but used the elephant monoballs that came with the car. The ball joints in my arms only had a few k mile on them. The new forks meyles frim fcp. I still have to torque things down but it is nice to get things back on the car. I did fugure out that the gt3 rack is damaged, bent arm due to accedent and my c2 rack has a slight leak so i think im just gonna get a reman. For the $250 it didnt seem worth getting a low milage one from a yard. New cfs third rad is also in. It matches the other 2. Its kinda a pita install. U have to drop the other 2 rads out to get the hoses on and then the center rad mount assembly orientation doesnt make sense until u fit it to the car. Anyways sepent too long on it but it looks good. Just need to cut the hole in the front bumber.

Great read, keep up the good work!

Sunday was productive. Lots if little things done. Front suspension, msi studs and brakes are in and torqued down. I have to use my stock sport sway bars for now and still need the new rack. A little ronald mcdonld on the colors but oh well. Went with pagid yellows and since they dont make slottled rotters specifically for the the gt3 they do make the rotor in the same size dor a new cayman. I had to drill the hole for the retainer screws because that different bit the rest is the same. Bumper cut is dine and fits nicely.

Plugging away... finished assembly of the rear suspension, new e-brake shoes, msi rear studs and shocks installed. Turns out that i have the wrong rear callipers in the box when i bought the car. He should have the correct ones shipped out in a day or so. Next step is to finish up the rear plumbing and wiring. I also got the rest of the rubber and plasic from porsche to refresh the engine hoses.

Got all the coolant hoses and almost all of the vac lines swapped out. I need another 2 meters of the rigid vac tube and then i can put the intake back on. I also got the trans bolted on with an upgraded clutch fork pivot from Rauch and Spiegel. This trans is very different then the old c2 unit. Also the rest of the plumbing, wiring and little things r done under the car. A few more small parts from the dealer and the drive train will be installed.

Super tidy Aaron. Getting close !

Very nice! There are a lot of vacuum hoses on these things for sure. Can you measure the clutch slave hose? I need to get or make one for my car. I've swapped out the Turbo power clutch for the GT3 regular clutch and I need to finalize the hydraulic line. The Turbo line is too short.

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Np, ill get it tonight. Ill also get u a pic of the hard line. The gt3 didnt really have a lot of vac lines. The turbo must have a lot more because i returned a bunch of parts that showed on the drawings but were not on my car.

Thank you. Yes the Turbo's probably got twice as many vacuum lines. BTW, your post about popping a coolant hose at NJMP reminded me. If you have changed the "omega" clips that hold the coolant flex lines to the engine and the car's hard lines be careful, there's a error in the parts catalog that causes a lot of grief. The two omega clips for the engine need to be the same size, the two for the car's hard lines need to be the same size. Two of each size. The parts catalog shows 3 and 1. Doing what the parts catalog shows will get you a line popping off at the worst time.

I did read that and i do need to order that second clip. Right now i have a small issue with the coolant resi touching the drivers side hard pipe so i have to mod something to make some room.

About 14.5" for the hose

Thanks for the hose length. You've installed the GT3 hard lines? It should fit with those.

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Yes i the hard line was the same to the connection point under the drivers seat area, then i swapped jn the gt3 hard line. Should fit like a glove. Do the turbo guys use urethane trans mount inserts. My factory ones r shot and wondering it ita worth the extra $ for aftermarket?

Most of the Turbo guys are running the 997 trans mount with the holes in the rubber filled in with window-weld urethane. That's what I'm running. Cheap and effective. You still need the two rubber "ears" that go on both sides of the mount or it will klunk in turns. I wonder if some of your rear pipe clips are not pushed in all the way. Which way does the pipe need to go to get the clearance you need? I will try to look in there on my car later. It's really tight on the Turbo, there is a huge intake duct between the engine and the coolant tank. Here's what it looks like, it is hard to see much.

The coolant is wedged on top of the pipe. U can not slide the clip in. It may be a minor difference in how the tank mounts. As mine was a mk1 c2. It seems to be a 1/4" too low. Ill get a pic after dinner. i may just get the factory rubber side pieces for now and get new mounts this winter. I have long past my budget .

Did you use the black mount from the C2? The Turbo & C4S use a different mount. Perhaps it's shorter. You could skim 1/4 off the mount where it's bolted to the car, might be the easiest way. Oh, that omega clip has to go in the way I have it. There is no way it will fit in the other direction. If you fill the old trans mount with window-weld I'm sure it will be better than new.

I did use the old mount. The one from the gt3 was cracked. I did measure it and it did seem to be the same but i guess it isnt. Im just gonna order a new tank.and mount

So i played hooky from work this morning because this coolant resi tank thing bothers me. I did confirm that the old bracket and the newer one r the same dimensionally. So i took the old broken bracket and cut it down, i also had to trim the webbing because it hits the sheet metal. I cut about 1/2" off. Then i discovered i had to raise the slot on the metal retaining bracket to match. I also slotted the retainer tab on the tank and for one more piece of protection i will make the rubber insert from a power steering retainer bracket into a bushing. I probably could have used the mk1 tank but mine is very old and a new one is $600. Now ill have a new genuine porsche mk2 tank for $120 and a modified bracket. I did verfiy that there is no issue with the engine lid too. Not sure why this problem exists, but u can see that the coolant pipe was rubbing on the old car too. Too close and rubbing on the tank Modification to the bracket. Now that i know it works i will modify the nonbroken bracket Modified matal mk2 metal bracket Slotted hole on the tank retainer tab Rubber spacer bushing Finally enough clearence sonit doesnt rub and the clip can be inserted notice the discoloration above the clip tab where it was rubbing in the old car

What the cool kids with turbos do with the trans mounts.

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Nice! The new style tank is bigger too, which I don't know if it matters or not. See that allen head cap screw in the foreground? That holds the shift detent spring. A lot of guys running the G50 transmission will take that cap off and add an 8mm ball to make the shift detents feel crisper, and it may help avoid popping out of gear. There is an official Porsche part# for the 8mm ball: 900 108 064 00 and it goes inside the detent roller under the spring. Use some sealant on the cap screw after.

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thx ill check it out. Ordered some delvac 75/90 full synth to fill up the trans. Apperently the po drained it, assume nothing and verify everything . porsche wanted $54 a liter and the delvac was $57 for the gallon. Sometimes their pricing is so messed up. I got coolant for a 3rd of what the parts store wanted???

Well its ready to stab into the car tonight as long as the new coolant resi makes it today. I did get the detent ball installed into the trans. Interior is done as far as i can go until i get the shift cables adjusted. Im also waiting on seat brackets for the new to me pole position buckets and the roll cage to get back from paint.

It's looking very nice!

So many differences between the M96 and the GT3 powertrain- I'm surprised especially with all of the extra stuff on the transmission and things like the starter location.

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The gt3 is based off the Mezger air cooled engines, where the m96 was a new ptatform. The thing on the trans is just a cooler similar to the tip trans. Basically the set up is deigned for the track.

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I suspect you are drawing many compare and contrast conclusions on your project. Looking forward to your thoughts once the project is finished.

Not to pump his tires up too much but DJ is a good wrench, plans and researches well and apparently is efficient as F. Love the project, I think he should take on something a little harder next time

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Thx but what do u want me to try? An ls in a 996? I mean i have alread built these:

I’m thinking a big sick roll cage in a hobbyist 996…

Yeah the Mezger internals are at least somewhat familiar through looking at the factory manuals etc (true dry sump/oil tank, way different cylinders/heads/crazy different TO bearing/oil extractors/intake etc), but I was surprised to see all of the other external stuff that I hadn't before. Cool. Black Bear Pass? I want to see a ramp score on the 996/GT3...

Everyone reading this thread should STRONGLY ENCOURAGE (apply MAX peer pressure) to Mr. Dejeeper to attend the track day at Lime Rock early September with his soon to be newly assembled supercar. He has so far been non-committal to the invitation. There will be a gang of bad *** 996's in attendance terrorizing the track and I think most would agree - Mr. Dejeeper should make sure he is included... I will even take all sorts of video of his sick machine so everyone can really take in the fruit of his labors Let the encouragement begin !

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good eye, yes Black Bear pass prependemic I think the porsche would have a negatuve rti number . Oh andnthis happened tonight. Ill be turning the key tomor...hopefully it runs.

Nice work getting that puppy in there. Get a good night's rest for a clear head tomorrow. We're pulling for you, man!

Amazing what you have done in a relatively short amount of time. Great project! I am with Zbomb, would love to see you at Limerock in September.

Man you have done an incredible job. Other than minor stuff I'm past my wrenching days, but I got an awesome 33 year old guy as my mechanic. Anyway, I appreciate all you have done. I understand a bunch more about the engine, the systems, what s its involved. Take your time make sure all systems are good etc, and go racing when you are good and ready. It would be a shame if things are rushed and there is another incident. You have definitely spent a huge amount of time and pretty good amount of money on this. I almost got a one owner 2004 GT3 yesterday silver with 68,000 miles. The car was on Pcar My number was $65, the car went for $69 and change with fees $73K. You are going to have a hell of a ride.

Hopefully, on track days, look like a deer but kill like a lion!

Im still waiting in the rear deck and cage to get back from the paint shop and the reman steering rack has been painfully slow in shipping so there still is a bunch more work to be done but this happened today. You Tube

You are the man!

Fantastic! It's gotta be a great feeling.

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you�re filling the gaps with 3M 08609 Window Weld? Would be interested to know how it feels & holds up. Amazon Amazon

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the po did this to the mount on my car with the old engine and i changed the mount and put a poly instert in. I can say the yellow poly was about 10% more nvh and they felt about the same. I think the turbo/gt3 mount is stiffer and there r 2 spred apart so they dont need as much help. i did it this way from advice from turbo owners tnat said its all thats needed.​​​​​​

6 weeks?? OMG , your a Monster Wrench !! Nice going....

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Well really only 5 weeks as i was away at the beach for a week. Not bragging.... Now i have figure out how to defeat the seat belt tensioner airbag code in the modual. The doner didnt have the belts in it and i assume its an mk2 thing? only other real code in gettjng is a can bus connectiin code to the jnstrument cluster.

So whats the peanut gallery think... keep the mk1 rear bumper and deal with the long tips or fix, paint the mk2 bumper. Eventually u will be doing a different exhaust but im not sure if short mk1 tips r interchangable with an mezger exhaust?

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if you are going to track it make it as mean as possible, hell just go straight pipes, no mufflers, no cats. Make it spit 🔥 fire.

MK2 bumper gets my vote.

go full 996.1 gt3!

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Saw quite a few of your videos. The last one was vs the callaway corvette. Anyway great stuff, I would be interested in seeing your shifting points (rpms). Any Idea what your car weights now?? wish you the best at your next track day and keep on Making Videos. Maybe we got off in the wrong way, but we definitely have a common interest in our cars and how they perform, regards Luis.

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Yeah 5 weeks is pretty impressive, with all the parts shortages and 3 weeks ship time from Germany stuff. I'm using Todd at Protomotive to handle recoding may tip to manual swap. He says he can recode the instrument clusters, or he said he knows someone who can do it. The seat belt tensioners came in in 2002.

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I answered you question over in my thread to keep this one about DJ�s bad *** exploits. https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...l#post17570845 Tell him to go to the track with us ! 🙂

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THAT_IS_AWESOME! You Tube

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Well its not gonna be a full race car. I still need it to be nice to drive around town. Eventually ig will get long tube headers and some 200 cel cats. Muffler may go at that point or at least a lighter muffler will be got. I dont think it needs to be recoded. I am using the gt3 harness, cluster and dme. It should all be playing together. I do have one plug in the cluster with a broken lock? I will probably pull the cluster and double check eveything. Ill see how the tensioner delete modules work and then keep an eye out for the correct belts. Of course the po cut the wires so ill need to splice in the harness too.

I have one extra lock MA Aaron gave me if you need it - if I remember correctly it’s the green one. FWIW - those things not being locked caused me some heartache after thinking pushed in was good enough haha.

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Im pretty sure the entire belt assembly is different. Its not a big deal i just dont like trouble lights illuminated.

OMG! I'm buried at work for a week and the world changes. Great freakin' job!!! There are very few people that could pull this off. Many hats off to you. I heard you were going to Lime Rock. I'm happy to crunch any data you generate when you go with the 996 gang.

Ready; steady.........go. I guess its time for an update i had another week of of vaca camping up in Lake George, NY. Nice area of the country to hang out if u ever get the chance. All week long i was chomping at the bit to get the car on the ground and driving. So i still need to finish the interior, seats, cage, belts and center consul. In the exterior i still needed to install the new steering rack, bleed brakes, add the front brake shields and a bunch of little things that came in from germany while i was away. Well it took the rest of last week but its now driveable. I had to pull it back in and adjust the alignment. It was squirlly as hell for the first drive. Now its tolerable. Its now on the pete and i drop it off tomor for corner balance and race alighnment. Here of some pics as i finished it up and a couple of vids of me driving. Rsr uprigjts amd the fancy ducting brake shields Interior. I really thought it was gonna be worse. The red belts on the red seats blend nice and it breaks up the sea of black. Gonna need a removable steerung wheel eventually. I forget how good they look from the back First drive outside the neighborhood, super scetchy. Also phone was on mirror image so i get that figured out for the next vid. You Tube Drive after the realignment. i pulled 2nd to about 7800rpm.and 78mph. I kind ran out of safe road. Dont know if its the hp, poor camber in the back or the ls but its super easy to rip the back end out. You Tube

FIRST to say you are a BAD *** ETA...come to Lime Rock ! Double ETA... Pics of giant brakes please Triple ETA... I was hooting and hollering when you kicked her sideways... GET AFTER IT MY GUY - your professional composure is admirable.

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Working toward limerock. Have to see how she does at pocano on the 16th

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I would seriously consider driving down to hang out if I wasn't on track that day.... but I am and VIR is prob too far... I'll be with you in spirit brother. So jacked for you, looks sick, sounds sick and there is only 1. Garage Built man, there's something to be said for it.

Sounds sweet !!! Good job !!!

Sometime in the future someone will ask, and now we can tell them, “Yes, it can be done!”

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Yes. Go with the MK2 bumper....

Dude you are a bad ***. Congratulations. It probably take you a bit to adjust to that power. What�s the redline on that engine???

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I might have to come check it out in person. What group are you driving with?

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Thx everyone. The 25mi i have put on it so far have been a blast. The dash says 8k. There is a chance that the tune has that raised but i hope not. There u no range 2 over revs on the motor and i dont want to put any on it. Ill be in the green group. I have never been on that track so i figure i could learn it and the car at a slower pace. The event is here. https://www.motorsportreg.com/events...raceway-946963

Sounds like a good plan. That�s my least favorite configuration. This has 3.5 garbage corners, and most of it seems off camber for the direction it is normally run. North and South East are so much more fluid.

Fantastic job. I love those front uprights and brake cooling shields.

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I wont know any better . Im really only using it as a shake down and warm up day. I have vir with patomic pca at the end of the month. 3 days in the heat and i want to be ready for it.

Congratulations! Tremendous accomplishment.

Well back at it again. Back on 7/16 i stopped into a local porsche indy that was recommended to me for a corner balance, alignment and inspecion. Dropped it off monday 8/9, by wed he said that he wasnt gonna be able to do the alignment. I guess in the previous 3 weeks he neglected to schedule rack time off site becuase he doesnt have a rack in house. Kinda pissed me off and mean while he had not spent any time on the car yet. So he does finish the corner balance and inspection late fri, barely in time for me to pick up. He managed to butt rape me for 12 hrs and he still couldnt finish the job in 5 days. The good thing is he did find a few things wrong and fixed them but his time management sucks. So here I am fri evening with a crap alignment and a track day on monday at pocano, what do u do? Well u get on youtube and learn how to do a string alignment. Fcpeuro has a nice vid explaining it so off to Lowes i go and buy $75 worth of stuff. I spent about 9hrs today getting it right but it drives straight and should be right at home in the track. I would hate to do this on the ground. The 4 post really helps as i could get under it to add shims and make the adjustments. Ultimately i should have just bought a set if scales with what i spent and did the whole job myself. The final measurements. All in mm. My messy *** garage packed to the gills. At least u can see how is set it up. Agressive camber How to lock down the steering wheel

good work. I've been intrigued by seeing string alignment . One of those things and maybe I'll have to give it a go...

Nice work! Have a good time on Monday at Pocono!

Impressive does not even come close to cutting it - you are a man among men my dude.

Nicely done.

I've done string alignments many times. You can do as good a job as an alignment shop, it just takes a really long time. 9 hours sounds about right. I have a SmartCamber gauge, one of these: https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pr...asp?RecID=1206 And a triple laser alignment system, one of these: https://www.chassistools.com/shop/tr...ignment-system If I spend an entire day using them I can get my alignment about spot on. I wish I had a set of scales, perhaps some day. I can't wait to see how your car goes on the track. One thing I am sure of, you'll never worry about oil pressure drops again.

Well a $2100 laser is probably not in the budget for now. I may pick up the camber gauge. I was able to put the gauge on the rotor through the wheel so that gave me a good surface for repeatable results. Im out of small shims for now so i couldnt really change the results at this point even if i wanted to. Wanted to thank the rest if u for the compliments and encourgement.

Yes, I wasn't suggesting you should go out and buy one, I didn't pay anything like 2100 for it. It's still a major pain in the *** to set up and use. I would not trust myself to set up a 996 anyway, there's too many adjustments. I use it on my VW which eats front wheel bearings for breakfast. I can't wait to see how your new car runs on the track. It looks really good.

Man is it hot at vir. So far motor dont give an f . Still fighting precat o2 signal issues on both banks but the cars default "failsafe" maps are doing there job... i think? In prep for this weekend i went through the suspension 100% and everything i did was fine. Scaled the car to check the shops corner balance and they suck. He is getting it back to get right. So swapped the front tires out to another set to because i was getting so off throtle darting. Newer tires feel much better.

Hell yeah brother !

This is what a dash should look like after 30 min of flogging at 99*.

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Water temp looks pretty good.

I'd say 30min sessions in 99 degree temps on your 2nd time out on track with your concoction a pretty good test my amigo. Have an adult beverage or 6 to celebrate.

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The car looks awesome, I imagine it goes like hell too. I�ll be celebrating too. Jason im rewatching some of your stuff right now.

Thx guys. So the car is deff faster but its still has similar powerband characteristics. If u drop below 4k rpm its dogish. I just need to get 500rmp faster in a couple curves. Its nice that i dont get walked away from un the straights. The other thing u need to look at is the car as a whole. Porsche did a very good job at matching components to make the car better then the sum of its parts. Although u can swap in almost any gt3 part the car really shines as a package Good morning from VIR

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Awesome have a blast today and please report back. I�m test driving today a 08 c4s that has been mod, apparently 450 hp.

Way cool! It's awesome to not have to worry about pressure and temperature. Car looks great!

Day 2 in the can. Jusf as hot and still no issues...not sure if this is fast for your second day at vir but its what i can do for now. Still have ine more day.

Glad to see the Hot Rod treated you right again today - I can't wait to see this thing in person. You better be having a blast ! ETA... And thanks for watching the vids Luis - make sure you let Aaron know he needs to get us some footage of his beast.... he's not listening to me.

Oh im listening, i just dont have the time to figure it out. I may turn on the camera for a session but its gonna use most of the memory in my phone.... i think.

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great. Glad to know no problems. If you need a phone buy an IPhone 12 Pro Max , I�ll appreciate your business, my son and wife have them and where you can get 5G coverage fast as heck. Also the camera on those phones is amazing theater quality or better.

Sorry, im a samsung/andoid kinda guy. My phone has plenty of memory. The issue is since the cameras r really good they use a ton of memory. We r running 30 min sessions and i cant just reach up and turn it on and off while zooming around the track.

My best lap at VIR is 2.08.520 in my 97 M3. Granted it is a BMW CCA club race car - Prepared class on either Hoosiers or Hankook, both DOT rated. I have loved watching your thread on the swap. Keep it up at VIR - times will only get better.

Go for it. You will only get better. I�m extremely glad the car is holding well, you are a helluva of a mechanic.

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I hear you. I have a Go-Pro that I put in the car on the harness bar and barely have used it on the track. When I think about turning it on, I am already buckled in and can't reach it. One of these days.

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I use Track Addict on my Galaxy S10 and it's fine on 30 minute sessions. I put in a 64GB micro SD card and set Track Addict to record to that. No problems at all, even with 4 or 5 sessions. I download the sessions off my phone to my laptop when I get home and erase the sessions from the phone. I just got a 256G micro SD card so I can keep some sessions on the phone. I also use a standalone 10Hz GPS receiver which is more accurate that the phone's GPS. Mine is called a Qstarz 818XT. I also use a bluetooth OBD2 reader to get engine data into Track Addict. Mine's called an OBDlink LX. It can't read oil temp, because oil temp isn't an OBD2 value it's a Porsche custom value. Other than oil temp this is a great setup, it's cheap and effective. I would like to find a sturdier windshield mount. The one I have is a good Panavise mount, and it still vibrates all over the place. That's a great session at VIR, I want to get there some day. Maybe next year. The big three I want to run are NJMP, VIR, and Watkins Glen.

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Njmp is basically my home track and im deff doing watkins again. If i do vir it will be late sept/oct. So if we can sync schedules and maybe get the zbomb to travel we will have a good group. Good info in the camera set up. I figure ill get all that suff in order over the winter. I had to get the newest phone so no sd card. Maybe ill get the one one fixed and just use that? I have a seasucker suction mount. Very rigid but a little pricey. i may turn in the camera for the next session.

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Thats fast. A guy in the group got promoted and he was running 2.13 in a newish M3. they gots *****. the other faster guys in my group r running around 2.23 so im not that far off the pace for my first trip here. Many of those guys have faster cars and many more days here but im pretty sure i am slow because of the driver. thx, the goal today is to run consistant, even if its at 2.29. But i would like to get down to 2.25.

She held together just fine. Finished the day with a smooth session. Not my fastest but did 6 of 8 laps within 1 sec. i was really working on being consistant. So this is my fastest lap. I was getting pushed by an older bmw m3 v8. Had to really push the turns so he didnt catch me in the straight. Eventually i made a mistake and i let him by. At one point the dash said 103* so i feel like a burt tatertot but i have to load a go 7hrs for home.

I think its been said that Watkins and VIR are similar lap times, how did it compare for you? I'm doing thunderbolt on 10/14-15, will be first time there.

Good to see you out there giving it Hell and having fun!! To me, your car is better than a "real GT3 "...

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Car looks great Sounds like you did a great job

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Who r u running with at njmp? They r both fun tracks but i think i like thunderbolt better. I never timed a lap at watkins and it would have been slow anyways as i blew the motor my first day there. Ill deff be back next year with something to prove. Deff better to me because i built it. Oh i gave it hell the third day, in what felt like hell. It was a trial in fire not by fire. I ran the ac all day even with the windows down on the track. I dont think i saw a single standard 996 mk1 or 2 and im guessing that was for the best. Also after talking with the newer cayman owners they r dealing with high oil temps too even with remote coolers. Its just an on going issue throughout the last 20 some years.

Man that looks like one hell of a weekend. I�m really enjoying following this thread, and I�m glad to see lots of you guys are in the NE. I�m going to NJMP (Lightning) this Friday 9/3 for my first event ever, it�s a full day of class/instruction and (4) 20 min sessions of progressive paced laps. Then I�ll be there again 11/6-7 with PCA with an in-car instructor. I felt the paced laps are a good start, because I am still trying to assess my risk tolerance of how hard I want to push the car. Great thread and keep it up. Car is shaping up to be great!

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Schattenbaum PCA Have not done an event with them but one of my previous instructors is going. It's also right in between doing Palmer the end of September and Summit the first of November. Summit is with Metro PCA and it is usually lightly attended with 6 25 minute sessions a day.

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Best advice u ever got was to just drive the car as hard as u want not as had as it can be driven. Spending the day learning the track will pay dividens for the next event. All good events from what i have heard. I want to do the Delaware pca in oct at njmp but i think i may be out of money this year.

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Yes that�s my mentality. Learn more about the car, learn the track, learn some basics. This is a long journey and I know where I want to be eventually, and I am in no rush. I almost want to pick up another, cheaper car when budget allows, to dedicate to this sport. I�m not willing to write off my dream car, or pay for a rebuild just yet.

Solid plan...i was just able to make my dream car more dreamy .

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you built this thing, I wish I was half as good as you as a wrench. Anyway my mechanic does most for my p car. All the way back to 2013 my biggest mechanical achievement was being able to adjust valves on 80s BMW 3.5 straight sixes. Also tunning my shark 🦈 M635CSI individual throttles that until 15). Glad 😀 you are back on the track and had a hell of a time.

So after 3 brutal days at vir the car did very well. On my post track check out i noticed some fluid in the drivers front well. I thought it was brake fluid but it turns out ps fluid. My brand new, reman, steering rack was pouring fluid out the boot. So not only did it take 14 days to deliver an "in stock" item which was 3 days late it sucks. I already contacted them for a return label and a full refund. So i swapped in my 200k mile rack and out came the strings for the 3rd time im a couple weeks. Now off to enjoy my labor day. Always do a full inspection when tracking a car Some of what was in the boot Strings.... again. But it is getting easier to get it dialed in

Well done sir, well done. I am heading to the Glen in just a few days! One of my early-retirement gigs is with TSL (Timing Solutions Limited) and we do the timing and scoring and telemetry systems for the SROMA World Challenge series. They have an event there Sept 17-19. I raced a Swift DB2 for 13 years before the girls went to college, and at some point, I will get back on the track to have some fun. Work to do before I would feel good doing this to my C4S. Heading to Sebring for an event, a track I have never been to so will be fun to see that historic venue. However, I get to do laps at all the courses we have events in because every morning, at least an hour before cars on track, I am doing laps to test all our systems and make sure we are ready for the day. Next year at Sonoma, I am going to drive from Boise to the track, and my C4S will be the "test car". Right now, my Lexus 450h has been on several tracks and is just not the kind of thing you can flog around.

Nice. My wife did the fuel spill plans for Sunoco and visited a ton of tracks but she had no inerest in racing. Its funny i tell her where im going and she lets me know where to go to diner. Sebring is a fun track. We r in turn 5 every year for the imsa race. One day ill get in that track with my car.

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Is that 3462 weight with you in the car? also maybe I missed it, did you swap to throttle by wire?

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Yes thats weighted corner balance. Basically +200lbs. My car was a 2000 so it was already throttle by wire. The y2k gas pedel assembly and plug were the same as the gt3 but i swapped the gt3 assembly in just in case there was something different about it. Part numbers were off on the last 2 digits but they be just revisions.

I finally got the car on an alignment rack. I was deff off on the strings but it wasnt that bad. First pic is the first attempt but the eccentric bolt slipped during the test drive. Second pic is the final numbers. Very race car.

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Had mine checked the other day and have similar numbers except not as much rear camber. Front 3.1 and -.15 toe rear 2.7 and .35 toe The f&r toe was the biggest issue you seemed to have. Will you get a chance to get it on the track this season? I�m headed to summit in a week.

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Yea im hoping for some more speed on the straights. I have one more day on Thunderbolt at njmp on 11/8. The weather looks good so far and MoE still has spots available. I also bought some gmg gt3 sways and hope to get them installed before i go. Should really help with the tail whip i get exiting the octopus.

I'm envious of you guys, track season is closed for me. This is the busy part of the year at work and it's cold outside. Now the maintenance season starts.

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Eibach sways made a nice difference in feel to me for just casual use, so I could imagine you�ll be really happy with upgraded GMG sways on the track.

A quick update in sime winter mods. I tried to jnstall the gmg sways last season but the rear did not fit so i just got around to figuring it out. I purchased new rennline motor mounts and gt3 bar to make sure i didnt have an install issue with my drivetrain swap and what i found was even the stock gt3 bar did not fit properly. So i loosened all the trans mount and motor bolts and leveraged the motor rearward. The trans mounts are slotted so it was relatively easy to shift the motor back. After that was done the gts bar fit easily but the gmg bar still rubbed the engine case. The factory bar is a tick over 20mm and the gmg is 25mm. So my 2 options were to dent the bar or sand the engjne case. I chose to sand the case as there is plenty of material and it wont compromise strength in that area. I now have about 1.5mm of clearence and im hoping that will be enough with the stiffer rennline motor mounts. Blue sport inserts. Only takes 30min to swap out if i dont like the feel. Slotted trans mount Close but it fits

Got the new Girodisc rears on with a fresh set of Pagid yellows. The old pads where in the car when i bought so i got about 15 track days and 3k miles + the po usage. The new pads should last all next season. The zimmerman rotors i removed wore down about 50% in one season.

Nice! Can the hats be separated from the steel rotor or will you need to replace the entire unit when the time comes? I don't think rears take as much of a beating so should probably last you for much longer either way. I need to see this thing in person one of these days when I'm passing by your area!

The rotors r 2 piece so u just replace the ring. They r a little pricey at $400/pair but the rotational weight savings and the extra cooling benifits should offset the costs. Fast=$$$ I bought a season pass at njmp with Motorsport Enthusist. Their events r on the Motorsportreg site. I should be able tiake most of their events. lmk if u can make it to the track.

I might go Girodiscs in the front since going to the "big Brake Kit" rotors did add some additional weight. I assume they make rotors for the 997 turbo rear.

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That's my goal for this year so will definitely be in touch. Just waiting for the UIDS to come out to give me some extra confidence in the car, despite being a total noob at track driving. I think Summit Point will have a PCA event in early March for newbes like me so I'm looking to sign up for that.

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U want the same rotors i am using on the back. A-031 and 32. They will have the provision for the e-brake drum but it doesnt interfere with anything up front. I will be at summit this year too but a little later in the season.

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U want the same rotors i am using on the back. A2-032 for 350mm. They will have the provision for the e-brake drum but it doesnt interfere with anything up front. I will be at summit this year too but a little later in the season.

With the four straights over 100 Summit is a killer on the brakes. There in November for the metro season finale. Had open track at 3 o�clock Saturday until no one was left.

Oh my I could probably get the Turbo to 150 on that front straight. I can touch 135 at Lime Rock and Palmer.

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U need to hit Watkins Glen and Vir if u want high speed. I should be in WG in june but think i may skip vir this year. I want to goto Pitt Race at least once this year too.

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You will save ~4 lbs a wheel in weight with the 2 piece floating hat rotor, maybe more. I had no idea about girodisc until DJ mentioned them. I run a Brembo big brake kit (355F and 345R) with the 2 piece rotors. Costs me 3k for front and back combined for Brembo replacement rotor rings. Girodisc is under 1.2k front and back combined. Savings of 1.8k and made in the USA! They have all the major sizes plus cost and weight savings.

Since i put in some rennline motor mounts the tips were all jacked up. I really didnt like the fabspeed tip that i had on there maxflows. Mostly because the drivers side got knocked around and i couldnt adjust it straight. I also perfered the factory oval tip because it fits the bumper shape better. The issue i have is i got mk2 tips that r longer but im gonna live with it because it took a rediculous amount of time to get them looking this good. Here is a pic, if anyone sees a set of mk1 oval tips out there send me the link. They do stick out kinda far.

Respect for staying in the game, and sharing your journey.

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I would search eBay for “Porsche 996 used engine 3.6” Also check LA Dismantler & DC Automotive websites.

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Thanks - sorry to be derailing some ones thread it was an intended reply to Mr Raby stating he had so many offers of unwanted 3.4 cases. Which I would value.

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If you are still in the same position I have ticket #9408 an elective 3.4 to 3.8 at LN engineering, and being in Australia would love to have a core to send to them. and buy every video you list as remote countries appreciate information. I'm ex Australian Army may be you've met some of us as an ex-Marine.

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he most likely wont be checking this thread as he is a busy man and there is no more motor talk here. The ticket us the best way to reach him, good luck,.

Well kinda a removable steering wheel fail tonight. I went with a mismatch of parts that didnt work out so well. I have an OMP 1954 steering wheel, NRG srk250 disco and a Momo L704 hub. I also had to buy the horn adapror piece from porsche to make it work. it all fits together but the wheel is way, way, way too far out. So ill have a Momo hub and horn adaptor 4 sale soon at 50% off if anyone wants one. The hub will work great without the disco and maybe a little less dish on the wheel. I am buying the NRG srk189h short hub. Apperently it allows the use of the factory clock spring and they supply the air bag resistor. I will update with part deux next week when it arrives.

Seems like that quick release is what makes the steering wheel way to close. I have that hub with a Momo Mod07 wheel and it's perfect for me. I think the shorter hub is the way to go. I purchased the NRG resistor to defeat the air bag light too and although it worked for a few weeks the light came back on. The resistor seems fine so I don't know if there is another fuse I need to check. Curious to see how it goes for you.

I have a MOMO hub, the 10mm extension, and a MOMO Prototipo and I think it fits me perfectly. My MOMO hub from Gert came with the resistor. I've never had an airbag light. My MOMO Prototipo, my FunctionFirst shift ****, and 997 GT3 shifter are my favorite mods. If I get another 996, or a Boxster, I'll do those mods at a minimum. I already have another 997 shifter on my shelf waiting for another car.

I agree its a decent piece but just not right for me. Ill put it up 4 sale when i get the nrg hub and someome will get a good deal on it.

Got the Joe Toth dive planes on and pulled the bumper for repair/paint and rad cleaning. Pics r too close cause i cant get far enough back while its in the lift but u get the idea.

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Notwithstanding my sympathies for the misfortune, that quote is hilarious...

I got the car back into the heated shop bay after regearing a Jeep Gladiator. I wanted to fix the steering wheel hub issue so i got to work swapping in the nrg hub. Its a much nicer piece then the momo and im sure that even though its shorter then the momo u can use it without a disco coupler because of the telescoping column. It retains the factory clock spring so install is a lot faster then the momo and u dont need to rig extra parts up to get the horn to work. It also comes with the airbag resistor. I still may swap the wheel as i have monkey arms and it still feels a little close. Only issue i had was the retainsion clip. My clock spring was kinda beat up so the issue might be unique to me. When assembled the clip rubbed on the body of the clock spring so i removed it.

Now for my rant about ecs. The mezger motor used a plastic oil filter lid so i bought ecs aluminun lid fir $85. What they fail to tell u is the over pressure valve has to be swapped over or give any direction to do so. This is not easy and may not be possible without destoying the origional lid. So of course i broke it and had buy another plastic $75 lid from porsche. i wasnt gonna cut up a brand new lid so i just installed it and now im looking for a broken or cheap lid to cut up, uhg.

Back to it. Got the 27mm 997 brake mc installed and bled the calipers and clutch. Probably pushed $150 in rf650 brake fluid but this stuff is worth the price. Im sure i could have used less but i wanted to make sure i got the air out. Pic if the mc which is physically the same except the bore is 27mm, 996 is 24mm. The pedal is much firmer. Also my car does not have psm.

I just ordered one of those for my car. It's really needed with the 997 GT3 brakes I have for it.

By the way Aaron I'm envious of your front wheel carriers. Those aren't regular GT3 parts - those are RSR parts and VERY EXPENSIVE.

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yes they came with the donor. They r nice but came with there own challanges. The rotor brake ducts cost 3x the amount, my nice gmg heim steering tie rods dont work and u have to remove the strut to get the nut off the lower control arm "ball joint".

I finally got some time to work on the precat o2 sensors not reporting. I dropped to car off at fabspeed around new years to wipe out the tune and put a factory tune back on. This was a wise decision because i was able to make some progress. The tech said that there really wasnt a performance tune on the car and it looked like it was monkeying with the o2 system. He could not fully read what it was doing but he knew it wasnt right. With the funky ​tune i was getting the proper output voltage from the signal wire, .46v, but when i plugged in the o2 sensor the voltage would move but the dme would not even reccognise the sensor was even attached. With the factory tune back on i rechecked continuety and every thing looked good but on bank 2 i was not getting the signal voltage back to the sensor so i checked the ground wire and found although it had continueity from the dme to the sensor the sensor side was not going to ground. I was able to add a wire and solder it in at the dme and the sensor plug to bypass the issue. The good news is now the bank 2 precat seems to be reading and reporting properly. Bank 1 is still not outputing voltage from the dme but the computer is now reading the sensor. The ob2 readout shows it stuck at .46v. Its kind of weird because now im not getting any obd2 codes but i know its not right. I think if i was driving the car it would eventually through a "lazy" o2 code. Im pretty sure the car had harness issues that may have caused a dme issue. i have pulled the dme and immobilizer and its gonna be on its way to Ecudoctors for a check up and hopefully not a costly repair. i have also found a cup wing and uprights used with help from my friends, thx Zbomb. So now i have to get a decklid. After 2 weeks and a few attempts Getty finally called me back so i have that all ordered. They said it would only take a week or so to ship. The nice thing is they want me to send the uprights to them so they can make sure the mounts line up to the anchors correctly. So now they r boxed up and ready to go. Hopefully in a couple weeks ill have some assembled pics.

The 996 arms race in the northeast continues to heat up.

Im 99.9% sure zbomb wins this year .

Yes. Trying to keep up with him is a big task.

A few updates..... i finally got the precat o2 sensors to read. After bypassing both ground wires i still had no voltage on bank 1 signal wire. So i sent the computer down to ecudoctors. They ran a diagnostic and to my surpise it tested good. Now i dug deaper into the harness, it turns out the pin in the plug was not connecting to the dme pin. I was able to remove a pin from my old harness from cluster plugs which r not the same but they r closer enough to work. After swaping the pin both sides now work. The signal still drops out somerimes but if i wiggle the wires it comes back. I think a previous tech probed the pins too aggressively and they now dont make solid contact. I will eventually repin all 4 of these o2 wires. Thats leeds me to ask if anyone out there has a old harness with a dme "B" plug, its 24pin and grey. My bumper and headlights r also getting refreshed. A layer of expel will hopefully keep the headlights form turning yellow again.

Havent been able to do mouch as im battling gout in my big toe, it sucks. I was able to spend a little time making the final repair to my dme plug. I was able to get replacent plug pins with help from Captain Obvious over on the turbo 6 forum. https://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/pr...oducts_id/2114 The pic looks confusing put is a pretty easy operation to replace the pins.

For some reason that picture makes those tools look very threatening. Poised to attack maybe.

So the bumper was repaired and painted, new demon speed cup splitter installed, engine deck lid painted and 55" wing installed. I also completed the rsr conversion to the center rad. The rsr conversion is rotating the rad so that u can duct it up over the hood. I bought the chimney part because it was only $150 but the rest of the kit would have been another $1500. I figured since the kit wasnt anything special i could modify my existing set up. I started by flipping the rad over so the ports were on the bottom, it still blead air out fine in the refill. Next i installed the chimney to see what kind of hardware i needed. A quick trip to lowes for some bolts and spacers, the rad was remounted. The passenger side hose needed to be lengthened about 3/4" with a 3/4" brass barbed union from the plumbing supply house. After fitting the bumper cover i realized the chimney need to be extended about 3"s. So another trip to lowes to get some lawn edging, a quick trim and some pop rivits and the chimney was close. Some weather strippjng from pepboys finished it off. I tested it out with a 100mile drive on sat. Turns out the lawn edging got a little soft and folded in some. So i pulled the bumper again and added 2 spacers and i taped the weather stripping down with flex seal.tape. i also sealed the edging to the chimney with the flex seal tape. All in all the conversion just took some time amd aboit $150. Chimney Rough fit Rad rotated Boot flipped Boot motified by cutting the sides back, it folds back nicely. Front fitted, had to mod rhe rad boots some so they dont quite sit correctly behind the openings but its just a visual issue Redo and final design Looks good after a quick bath. Ready for the track this friday. Just need the nt01s and seats back in.

Nice!

De jeeper i don�t know what you do for a living but you really know how to do a bunch of neat and unique stuff. Was your car recently repainted?? Anyway you should put up a shop and do one off cars. Good luck at the races.

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Im educated as a Mech E but have been owened a family construction business for the last 20yrs. We do custom and unique every day and i carry that into almost everything i do. I did look at opening a shop before i partnered with my brother, but i didnt want to burn out on something i loved to do. So now i just do it for my own enjoyment. My car was origionally silver but was painted guards red at some point. The front bumper and tailbase were just redone a week ago. Im lucky it still shines up nice

This came together beautifully! That front bumper is primo. Well done bud!

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I�ve got a 3.4 core from a 2001. Has bore scoring on bank 2. Asking $4500.

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yeah i kind of knew you had to know your mechanical stuff. I am the dangerous engineer, since I have a bs and a ms in industrial i know a bit about the other disciplines but also since I have an mba went towards the management side of things. Anyway all I manage these days is where or what to eat and drink, cheers 🥂.

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Looking good! I see you went with the medium sized wing. Supply chain issues making it difficult to get the large one?

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Well i didnt want to fo full race with the 65" wing....that would have just been showing off .

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How wide is that one, 55"?

Nice work! You will love that GT3 engine. I assume you transplanted the gearbox, too?

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I already do love the motor and yes trans and 3/4 of the donor car. If u get a spare 30min read the entire thread. Lots of details. yes its the getty 55" cup wing and decklid with demon speed uprights

There are a couple cars I am really fired up to see shredding this year, yours and @theprf at the top of the list. I can't wait to see you at Thompson, there's no way my car will be done but I'll give you some tips to make sure you don't go faster than me Maybe I'll throw a BBQ in the truck and make myself useful. The paint work and aero stuff looks killer and the Aim is going to open up a new world of geeking on cars that most guys round these parts don't even know exists. Let me know if you want any of my thompson logs and I'll go over the details with you of them from behind the wheel, with the video, may help get you up to speed a little faster.

The whole Aim thing is still a little over my head, the good thing is i will have 2 if not 3 track days done by the time i get to thompson. Ill deff take some tips on both the track and the aim.

This has been great to read, love the build, though I must say its giving me bad ideas involving a crate M96/76 for my 1999 if my M96/01 ever decides to eat its cylinder wall linings...

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I did read s much as I could. Fascinating story. Did you go with a lightweight flywheel? If so, you should also replace the pulley on the engine. There is more information on this in the 996 GT3 forum.

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the donor car had a fresh clutch so no. In the future it will get the lwfw and pulley. I do read the gt3 forum but dont participate much.

Sorry I don't know if it was answered yet but what lift cart are you using. I'd like to pull the engine in my VW as well as the 996 some time soon and that thing looks perfect for the job

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Harbor Freight 1000lb unit. Its alwaya on backorder so u need to keep checking inventory.

I probably missed it, but whats the airbox situation? I know the intake point switches sides between OEM GT3 and Carrera airboxes, so did you swap the whole deck lid for a GT3 lid, or were you able to rig up something else? Im trying to figure out if you can fit a Mezger under an OEM deck lid with the retractable spoiler right now, mostly wondering what the interference looks like with the cooling fan and intake path. Thanks! Edit: just realized you said cup deck lid. Did you ever have the original Carrera aerokit decklid on the car by chance?

I swapped over the gt3 deck lid from the donor. My car had an Aero mk2 lid but i sold it off. You could modify an aero lid for the opposite air cleaner and fan but i highly doubt a stock style tailbase would work with a factory gt3 airbox. Switch to a cone filter and any of the lids will work. The curremt decklid is the getty cup decklid with the gt3 underside panel.

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My understanding (which could very well be wrong and is based on some reading concerning the M9A1 motor) is that Porsche views the plastic housing as disposable due to the internal spring potentially weakening over time. Yea? Nay? 🤷

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I would consider that as an excuse for a crap part and a way to make money. Its $85 for garbage when they could just sell u a spring for $2 to change as every 50k miles Also i think the pressure spring is a lot less important with the dry sump but i have not researched that.

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No argument from me on that. But I did recently buy a new one for my 2011 Spyder just in case.

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i could paid the price, but I have always been conservative with my money. I have a great mechanic that is reasonable to me as I�m constantly getting him new customers. I admire the knowledge that Jake Raby and Skip have but come on there are other more cost effective options. Jake is probably the most expensive engine rebuilder and definitely some people will never buy from him. Skip has developed two great products, solutions, but if i saw it correctly $3,000 for a sump??? Actually I was in a conversation with another 996 owner yesterday and we were talking about the sump. Both of us don�t track out cars but like them as fast as possible. When he was asking me about the sump i said looks like an awesome product but i wouldn�t buy it because the way I handle money. He said well you can afford it , can you explain. Then I said, for less than the $3k cost of the sump, i got soul headers, fabspeed x pipe with the cheaters, new water pump, new serpentine belt, new low temp thermostat, new coils, new plugs, a carrera s 3.8 air box, and a APR tune. I took care of the lower oil pressure, tensioners rattle by using 5 qts Mobil 1 5W50, with the rest 0W40. I think zbomb said it best in one of his posts, he wants to go as fast as possible cheap.

Everything Porsche is over priced Not sure i agree. Certainly their rsr and low production parts r through the roof but there r many things that i have bought that r very resonable. A lot of small hardware and replacement 3.4l and mezger motor parts have been very resonable. The economics r what they r. Everyone has their own thresholds and if the parts r beyond then u sell or do without. Not sure grouping skip and jake with porsche is appropriate. They both offer a high end part and service at a premium price point. This is how i run my construction buisness and its not for everyone and eventhough my price point is high my profits r generally lower. Like u i balance cost and value.

So i had my first track day of the season 3/25. The track was soaked for the morning sessions and i was a little gun shy in the afternoon. It dried up in the last session and i got back to almost where i was at the end of last year. Im still 5-6 sec off the group pace and about 10 sec from fast. I have lots of room to grow this seaaon. This vid is of me learning new lines from a miata driver. I think his momentum lines give me much more room to improve then the high hp lines i was tought on. These laps are around 1.27 but felt real smooth. Second vid lap 4 was my fastest at around 1.25. Turn down the volume, lots of wind noise. I need to figure out youtube a little more to overlay music or figure out how to add a mic near the exhaust. You Tube You Tube

I drove it ! I actually drove GT3ish. It was a short drive and I really just putted it around some back roads but my immediate impression was, You would never, ever, think it did not leave the factory in it's current state. I told Aaron - the motor has a character to it that reminded me on the Ferrari NA V8's - it will tolerate and do a good job pretending to be a "normal" engine, but it is ready at any moment to show you it's special side. From the passenger seat on track - it made a lot more power down low than I thought it would, I was prepared for it to really need to be rung out and to me, it didn't feel like that at all. It pulled harder than my car, most noticeably over 100MPH. Here's my face after driving it, should tell you all you need to know. Thank you Aaron for the opportunity to enjoy your creation from both seats, it was more than awesome.

The look after you drive a GT3ish=priceless

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any videos!!!!!

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Not of z driving but i have some of me on the track. Ill upload soon if u can get some wifi where i am. i probably put it in the track video thread too.

So that’s what bliss looks like

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I honestly wish I was closer to You guys, thanks I�m pretty we would have a blast. Now my calendar is getting full fast my mom is coming to Tampa to see my brother Mother�s Day get together, so I�ll be there for maybe 3 weeks, hint get to drive 2015 Gt3, go to Clearwater beach, eat plenty of good Puerto Rican food, grouper, and yes definitely a trip to the original hooters. Then since we changed my birthday to San Antonio, I got to take my family for a week to the beach Port Aransas Texas after my mom goes back. Already got invite for 4th of July meat smoking extravaganza. I wish I have more time. Hopefully you guys had an awesome time.

You Tube My best session. i did manage to get the telemetry set up on my smartycam but i still have not figured out how to get the track map to overlay. Its way more of a pita then it should be.

Yes, the low end grunt is very good on the GT3 engine. It pulls nicely and is surprisingly easy in street traffic around town. Like you said, once you unwind the string it becomes a different beast. Much fun.

Well another monday on the track (sorry zbomb i know it depresses u). Unfortunately i dont have any video of my new pb of a 1.38.4 at njmp thunderbolt. Almost a 4s improvement. I bought a 256gig card for the aim smarty camera and it failed to format the card properly. U would think that when it was inserted the first time it would promp u but it took 3 more times of me trying to figure out why there was no video before it said it needed a format. [rant on] im sure once this system gets set up ill like it but for now it pretty much sucks. For something so powerful its probably has the worst set up features and instructions. There r no pop ups, tutorials, infomation windows or faq sections to go off of. U pretty much just keep f'ing up until u get it right. There is no way to verify the settings u change or import are actually working until u r on the track. By that point u r so busy during the day so its not easy to download eveything to verify. So far i have tried to get it correct over 4 track days and its fustrating as hell. Im pretty sure i made a mistake and i should have spent half the money and just bought a Garmin Catalyst. [Rant off]

Just finished up a weekend at Watkins Glen. Its such a good track and cool old Dirty Dancing era town. Was waiting on the ghost of Patric Swazy to stroll accoss the steet. This time i was able to almost get 2 full race days in. I toasted the rear drivers wheel bearing. A much easier fix then the last time i was there i already have 4 bearings and 4 axle nuts in the way from Fcpeuro. I figure i can swap them out every 2 years for the price of shipping. I was running with PCA Potomac. They r a real nice group of people and if u really want to learn how drive at a hdpe they r the premier group. They r big on fundementals and put no stock into being fast. This can get a little fustrating at my level of experience but if u r a novice they will get u up to speed without overwhelming u. A big shout out to my instructor Colleen Reiche who was patient and taught me "how to fish" instead of just feeding me. So here is my best session. I still need to work on my transitions from throttle to brake as i coast a little. Also i have some issues turning my head and picking up the next que. I have never raced anything fast like motorcycles so sheading 30yrs of steet driving habbits is tough. You Tube So its better to be lucky then good because i am not that good. Please take track maintenence seriously and dont ignore things that may feel odd in your car. In the video above u can actually hear the clunk, moment it went. Its coming out of the last turn on the checker lap as i was in line turning off the track. Super lucky it wasnt at speed as porsche hubs can seperate and a wheel can go flying off. You Tube

Holy crap that's a lot of moment. Vids were great to watch

I'm familiar with dead wheel bearings. The fronts on my VW last 6 hours, rears 3 hours. That's the worst I have ever seen though. Good thing you could put it on the toterhome and didn't need to drive back!

Honestly i was worried about pulling it on and off the pete. The new parts arrived today so ill expect to have lots of ball bearings boincing around my garage in the next day or 2. First i have to fix the wifes grooming van and the washing machine. When it rains it pours.

So Watkins bites me in the a$$ again. Turns out i snapped an axle shaft and thats why the bearing came apart. Not sure how or why but its a common issue in the gt3 cars. Although not as expensive as a motor the new upgraded Driveshaft Shop shafts from Demonspeed at $3300 r significantly more then the $90 bearing i was planning to spend. Also the race on the spindle had spun but thet r the same as my old c2 stuff so i was able to "borrow" parts. Its amazing that a 200k mile part can br that much better then an 80k part.

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Oh man, that's insane. I imagine you're doing the upgrade?

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Yeh, its funny when life knows u have a couple extra dollars in your pocket it seems to take it back. Coming from an offroad race world there is no i would go back with the same level of part after a failure. It just cost more down the road. Worst part is i was sponsored by Driveshaft Shop back in the day but being out of racing for15yrs wont help me get a discount. Its also good to support these specialty race guys as their products advance the sport.

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Figured that much and the guys at Demon seem to be helpful.

Well i guess we will see whats going back in the car. Demon sold their last set last weekend and is checking with dss for availability. I can get a porsche turbo "black" shaft by fri for $850. They r stronger then standard but im pretty sure its what i had in the car as the gt3 pet show it has the same part number as the turbo

DeJeeper, sorry to see man. Good luck with the final solution. I was surprised when I found out that I had to have my Guard LSD rebuilt last month. But as my indy told me, eventually even metal fails. It will be good to see your next steps.

I'd change the hub too. Can you get an outer CV & rebuild the half shaft? Pwdrhound has broken quite a few driveshafts. I don't know what he's using now. Probably a Porsche Motorsport part.

I think im just gonna get a stock shaft for now. Maybe upgrade in the winter. Looking at how the shaft is made there is a huge stress consentration at that point. At 350ft/lbs of tension when the bearing went bad (obviously has been bad for a long time). It must side load the shaft because of misalignment and then a crack forms. At least thats my theory for making myself feel better for not spending money i dont have .

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Do you have an approximate mileage on that failed component?

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The donor had 85k on it all else is unknown other then it was a VA car that was wrecked 3-4yrs before i bought it. I did have about 20 track days in it too. The pass side bearing was replaced at some point because the retainer plate was oriented wrong but it still looked dryish. At least the spindle was fine. Pass side:

Good god man.

Well passenger side is back together. This is how u torque a 340ft-lb axle shaft nut by yourself. U cut the center out if an old rotor, weld on a tube. I made mine a slip fit so it will work on the ground or the lift. Attach with lug bolts or nuts and crank away with a large torqe wrench.

I tightened it as much as I could on the lift, put the wheel back on minus center cap, and put the car on the ground. Set the parking brake and torqued away.

That is the other way. I could not do it that way because the drivers side is not put back together. Plus ill need the tool for the front. The front will have to wait until to next week as i ordered the wrong bearings

This is how I do it. 3/4" drive socket and extension. Jack stand for support. 3/4" drive torque cube set for 460nm. 3/4" T slide with a 5 foot black iron pipe. Easy.

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I concur ..lol I think you are right, the bearing failed first, then caused the axle stub to break due to over-stress.. You will be fine with new same parts ( no boost added..lol)

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I'm about to pull the trigger on the parts, may be calling for some help - on a couple fronts for this job

Thx Skip. Z, u r lucky to have a Mass Aaron to help u.

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You aint kidding !

need an update @De Jeeper

Saw that your mezgar sump doesn’t work on its side (90 degrees). Are you worried that when you’re driving, on the door, that you’ll blow the GT3 engine ?

Thx for asking...no i better not ever be 90* over in the car. I have one of these 4 that. I also have a full list of upgarde and maintenence that ill spell out soon.

I'm gonna have to frame that pic... And...what a tease on the upgrades.

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Mostly the lwfw and lw underdrive pulley along with some trick demonspeed pinch clamp adjustabe tierod links for the front and back. Got a fresh set of NT-01s to wear out too. Maintenence includes brake pads, brake fluid, front wheel bearings, full aim dash (but u know that) with oil temp and pressure along with steering angle and brake pressure, tpms sensors with temp and pressure capability...im sure im missing something?

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I'll bet that one has been 90* and probably 180* a few times....

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More then a dozen but its slow so there is usually very little damage .

So its that time again for maintenance and upgrades. Got a decent list of parts this year with the good friday sales. The major upgrade is a lwfw and evoms underdrive pulley. The gt3 drivetrain benifits well from this upgrade and its stock porsche parts frim the 997 rsr. I also have Zbombs old Aim dash to install along with steering angle, brake pressure, oil pressure and temp sensors. For the suspension i bought Demon Speed rear tow and front tre arms. For maintanence i have engine and trans oil to replace, front wheel bearings and full brake flush. New pads and caliper studs for all 4 corners. It will also get a full nut and bolt check. the parts pile Back of a mezger and the new clutch So the tape holds the release bearing fork as it has to go behind the bearing. A pivot pin has to be installed after the trans is mated. Its a huge pita with the engine out....i cant wait to try it with it in the car.

I'm still amazed you've completed this whole swap on your own in your garage space. Feels good to knock out some maintenance and upgrades at the same time. I'm doing my HPDC March 5th at Summit Point so I should be cleared for HPDE in future and hope to join for one!

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I'm always amazed at the number of people involved in the Potomac region. 82 newbies signed up for their clinic, good for them. If you don't go to their Watkins event in May consider Metro at Summit the same weekend. I think Aaron was considering joining me there. All of my metro instructors were very good. Hope the weather is good for your first clinic.

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Thx.. and very cool. Another 996 in the pits. I will be doing the Potomac event at Pittrace this year and im on the fence for the metro summit event. I have to figure out how many more events i can afford. If anyone sees a discount for nitto nt-01 tires pop up please lmk. I think i may need 3 sets this year .

@hbdunn - I've heard a lot of good things about the Potomac region so very much looking forward to it. I was definitely surprised by the number of attendees and had my worries about being accepted but made the cut.

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Good grief! I have some life in last years set after 20-odd hours and I just got a spare set in 245/45 & 305/35... to the tune of $1450 (ouch).

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I was getting 15 or so days out of a set but i corded the last ones in 10 days. I might be getting faster?

Need more camber!

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Rear wheel tread is dead flat and corded the inside at 3.2*. Front is still wearing the outside toi much at 3.2* so thats going up to 3.8* when i put the demon tie rod arms in. Njmp asphalt is very rough and can eat some tires.

You know you're supposed to pull the engine also when doing a clutch job on the Mezger engines ,, right ??..lol It's so satisfying when you can "finesse" the pivot shaft back into the fork without knocking the needle bearings out of position !!! The look on peoples faces when I would do a clutch job on GT3 or Turbo 996 in 2-2.5 hours at the shop was priceless !!!

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Well im kind of cheating too... last year i upgraded the pin and bearings to sintered bronze bushing set up. So i dont have to deal with the needle bearings leaving the cups.

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Oh yes, that IS cheating !!!!........ But a very "smart" cheat .......

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Yeah my home tracks are pretty smooth. I'm running 3.8 front and 3.6 rear with very even wear.

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I'm glad you got the flywheel put together ok. Looks good. At least with the Turbo trans converted to GT2 clutch setup I have another access hole to hold the clutch fork while putting that bloody pin in. I have not had the pleasure of assembling it in the car though.

Well i have a new to me fvd "cup" exhaust being shipped to me from CA so i played hooky from work today to see how bad the exhaust manifold bolt removal was gonna be. To my extream surpise i got all 18 out.... not im sure the clutch fork is gonna take me all night to get right. Cause u cant have 2 things on a build go easy. The exhaust im getting is a 997 center output but i should be able to just use my 996 fab speed cans with factory tips. If not ill get an aftermarker cup bumper.

That exhaust looks nice. I remember installing the clutch fork pin as a tricky operation when I did the GT2 clutch conversion on my Turbo. Good luck with it. Mark

Well the porsche gods have smiled in me twice today. Only took 30min for me to get the pin lined up and in. It probably would have taken 5 if i had another set up hands. I could get my fingers on the fork through the stater cutout on the pass side but i had to slide the pin in from the drivers side. Luckily i have monkey arms and finally figured it out. If anyone buys a turbo or gt car the pivot bar upgrade is worth every penny. Ill have the rest of car back in and torqued before bed. Solid progress as this was the most involved part of the upgrade this year.

Well i knew it couldnt be that easy. The trans is held in by 4 studs and when i was torquing 1 of them stripped out of the block. I get to pull the trans back oit to heilcoil the hole. Yea me.

That sounds like one of my days. Try to save the threaded rod. They were super hard to find when I needed them for my manual swap. I think I have one short rod left over if you need it.

The stud was fine. It only took me a few minutes to take it back apart and fix it but then i went out for national margerita day. Not really worth posting a pic of diner as its never as crazy as Louis meals . Ill be home soon to put it all back together again.

Just finished the whole thread! Awesome!!! Thank you so much for sharing your story and progress.

Thx its been a fun ride so far. So im a little dissapointed in myself for not getting the entire undercarage back together but i did have to drop the trans a 3rd time for another stud the ripped out. At least the drivetrain is secure.

De Jeeper, impressive next round of upgrades. Imho, everyone should be following this thread if they want a real world road map to build a 996 Clubsport. Interested to see if/how the new exhaust system improves performance.

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Me too but im 99% sure i will need to get a tune for this motor. Its well documented their is a dead spot between 3-5k rpm. Ill probably get a fvd tuner because its their exhaust and they will upgrade the program for free if i decide to get their plenum and tb.

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Makes sense. I will eventually go to their m&m headers and replace my software with theirs. Their software program is very well thought out.

Well its been a couple of days of 2 steps foward and 1 step back. The trans and all associated parts r back in the car, rear caliper studs r in with new pagid yellows, rear tow arms replaced, rear bumper off and exhaust is basically out. Just waiting on the crate from CA to make it east. This weekend ill get the front wheel bearings, brake fluid flush, front brake pads and caliper studs done and the front tow arms. Il also add some shims to the front gt3 arms to push out to 3.8* of camber. So the one step back is the pass side axle boot is split. May have just done it while it was on the lift because there is no grease anywhere and its open 360*. I have already ordered the parts from FCPeuro. I have to break that corner back down this weekend too. One bit of good news is i found out i have an underdrive crank pulley already on my car. It is steel and i am not sure the manufacturer so im still gonna swap it for the light weight aluminum Evomms unit. I will have a set of good adjustable rear toe arms and an underdrive pulley for sale if someone needs them. Girodisc caliper studs r very high quality and designed for the spacers. Rsr trunion style conection for the rear tow arm. No more tre ends. Split boot Same size to my surprise.

You might want rear toe lockout plates now that you have the adjustable arms. The crank pulley will only fit Mezger engines, I think. And the rear CV boots are 928 parts which I found amusing when I bought them. I do like the caliper studs; prevents stripping out the expensive RSR uprights you have! I put those in last year and they worked really well.

I guess ill let the turbo guys know about the pulley . I do have the eccentric lock outs already. They r a must when moving to adjustable tow arms. Fcp had the boot kit for under $11 each so a cheap but pita fix. The other side axle was new last year because it broke when the wheel bearing failed at Watkins.

This thread covers so much ground. Continued excellent work and descriptions. What would be really cool is if Rennlist had an index feature for each thread. The thread starter could action it's use and add items as the thread moves from topic to topic. Then, when a newby comes across it, or an oldie trying to remember, they can go to the index and find things more easily.

Hey Dejeeper I think I would leave the steel underdrive pulley on the car, it is probably a "Cup" item. I remember I big issue back then with people removing the stock Dual-Mass flywheels and installing the LWFW and sometimes the crank pulley would vibrate off the crank and damage the crank.. Porsche issued a TSB advising dealers NOT to install Cup LWFW on standard GT3's as it was not approved and would void Warranty..( and could damage crankshaft).. The scuttlebutt from owners was that they didn't see why the LWFW has this effect on Gt3 and not Cup Engines since they have the exact same internal parts.............There was never an Official answer/explanation from Porsche, but they stood fast on the Policy, so it was " it's all on you if you do this" ..... My theory as to why the Gt3 is more effected than the Cup Engines by doing away with the dual-mass flywheel is that I believe that even though the CUP and Gt3 have all the same internal parts, I think the Cup engines are balanced to a higher degree......( although a have no "official evidence" of this ) ....but I know the Carrera engines pistons and rods are weight matched to 3 grams, which is not great at all when most shops balance down to 1 gram or even .5 grams......My theory is that "Cup Engines" are balanced down to less than 1 gram where standard GT3 engines are not...just MHO.. I believe the engine you have is a Cup engine and I would leave the steel underdrive pulley on and not put the aluminum one on, "steel is stronger than aluminum".......and they have a different frequency at which harmonic vibration influences/excites them..

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This is correct as far as I have been able to trace it. Also the turbo engines are not balanced even as well as a GT3 engine; was not needed with the 6500 RPM redline. Better balancing and getting rid of the dual stage intake lifters lets it rev to 8000+. I installed the 11 pound 964RS flywheel - same unit as De Jeeper - and took it out after 300 miles because it was so horrid to drive. I liked the zingyness when rev matching, the NOISE from the transmission I could not stand. I also think the extra vibrations were partially responsible for breaking the question-mark shaped oil vent hose and spewing oil all over. Supposedly there is a damper front pulley that mitigates the vibrations. Anyway until I rebuild the engine and blueprint/balance it I'm staying with the DMF.

I have also read the issues with the pulley and a lwfw. The motor is a gt3 block but i was told it had head work done. Dont think the bottom end was ever touched. I rechecked the underdrive pulley issue. It turns out the turbo engine has a larger pulley but the gt3 comes factory with a steel underdrive (like mine does). The cup car comes with an aluminum light weight underdrive pulley. In 2010 the 3.8l gt3 also got the aluminum pulley. As far as i can find all of the pulley faliures were in turbo motors when a lwfw was installed. Its also recommended that the 6-cup lw crank pully should be used even on the gt3 but it is now NLA. The Evoms unit is even lighter and according to their fea anaysis its stronger at the mating surface to eliminate the loosening issue. So now that i have removed the dmf and installed the rs style lwfw the Evoms pulley seems to be the best solution. i daily drive a dual disk clutch in a dodge with a cummins and a 10speed peterbuilt....i guessing the clutch rattle will not bother me.

Ok, just wanted to make sure you was aware and had your big boy pants on...Btw, I thought your engine was a "Cup" engine, no?

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Nope the entire car was a factory vin 2004 gt3. I dont think i would want a cup. They burn the candle so bright the refresh is 100-150hr....that would toooooo much for my wallet.

Morning report... 20min of breaking down the pass rear to pull the shaft and 15 min more to disassemble the boots. Its a pretty easy job and would encourage a diy guy to handle this kind of repair in the garage instaed of a mechanic. Fcp is shipping the boot kits for $25 so its infinately less then buying a new shaft. Also pulled and weighed the crank pulleys. There is a pretty big difference. Not sure if its a usually thing but the locator pin in my pulley was broken but i just needed a magnet ti pull the piece from the crank. I did mean to do this before i pulled the shaft because now i cant set the e-brake and lock the drivetrain down to torque the bolt. It will have to wait till the axle parts arrive. Required tools Lock pin was broke Original New

Getting nervous about staying ahead of you.

Broken pin? Uht oh...did that engine have a dual-mass flywheel on it or did it already have the LWFW..

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I wouldnt worry there r no upgrades to the driver. All the part numbers show it as a stock gt3 dmf and clutch. I doubt the pulley had spun at the bolt was super tight and there were no rotational score marks. Maybe i was lucky?

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Well a pin doesn't just break from sitting in a hole, if hasn't spun and damaged the snout then yes I would say you were lucky..

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But maybe a season that nothing breaks?

I see a little oil seepage from the FMS on the inside of the steel pulley. That may be why the pin broke . Oil got between the snout and the pulley and lowered the "friction" of the mating surface with the pin and clamp load the only thing resisting movement.. It should remain dry.......and probably a reason the OEM pulley is made of steel...Steel against steel has a higher friction ( even with oil ) than aluminum against steel ( aluminum against steel with oil is a bearing surface).. This would be a good place to use one of these "diamond friction washers" https://multimedia.3m.com/mws/media/...tion-shims.pdf ...like is being used on many crankshaft/pulley connections or on the Vario-cam plus actuator to cam connection.....if you could find one the proper size it would increase holding friction 5X.... Even the mighty Mezger can have issues that need updating ....

Intresting stuff. This motor sat for at least 3 yrs before i got it. There was oil residue from the front crank seal. It was dry and im 100% sure its not an active leak. Im sure its like a rms that weeps when u dont drive a mezger. The new pulley does require it to be heated up because its a slight press fit. Im sure this helps raise the friction #s. I guess we will see how it does soon enough. Got the drivers side font done last night, heading out to get the pass front done. Not much to take pics if since wheel bearing replacement is the same as a c2 and its well documented. I was suppose to get my axle boots today but instead i got a box of random porsche parts i did not order. Guessing the shipping guy switched the lables? Im sure fcp will take care of it tomor.

Short update as i got the pass front all done and stared on the new aim sensors. The brake pressure was easy. Used an adaptor hose from www.neroescape.com and all the aim sensors came from www.trailbrake.com . The engine oil and temp sensors were a chore. I took the tb, plenum and a bunch of other stuff off trying to get to the factory temp sensor spot only for me to figure out that the adaptor i bought would not work. A huge waste of time. I wound up tapping a hole unto the oil filter housing for the temp. There is a perfect port for the turbo motor guys on top of the housing but the gt3 intake blocks it (thats why the gt3 sensor is burried un the middle of the motor). The pressure sensor just got put inine with the factor sensor. Brake hose Port that doesnt work Pressure sender Tapped into housing behind the alt Oh and yea me... i was hunting down an evap code and the vent nipple broke off the sender. Im pretty sure it was cracked already and its what was giving me the code? On my car i can just order the top of the sender which saves money, might be the same for a standard c2?

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I maybe able to buy a gt3 996 cup engine that has recently been rebuilt. It comes with the ecu that has been tuned for better performance. My car currently runs fine with no issues but I want more power. Will appreciate your coments about buying this 05 Mezger gt3 cup engine and fitting it in my early 996 coupe. Would definitely be an awesome one off car sitting next to my 03 Mezger twin turbo. Hey if you are up to it pm me I�ll pay cash to do the job. I would drive my car there and have the engine ship to you. Let me know your thoughts. Saturday I�m going to our biggest concourse in Kemah texas, over 300 cars. Squirrel is going with his broken in 4.0 FSI. Going to be a bunch of fun.

Physically putting the motor in is the easy part. I had at least 150hrs of labor and i had the entire donor car to grab parts from. I would imagine anothe 50-100hrs if i had to source a bunch of stuff. Also a cup car motor has a 150-200 hr life cycle. U would also need a trans and that may run up to $25k. It would probably be cheaper to just buy a higher milage gt3, sell your car and have the motor in reserve. Whats your budget, as anything is possible.

So i splurged a little and jumped on a good deal on a fvd (m&m) cup exhaust set up. The system is off a 997 gt3 so its a center output. I still have to decide if im gonna try to fit side tail pipes or a muffler delete pipe. I do have the rear bumper off the donor car that i could cut and make it work. Just dont know if i have enough time for any of the solutions. I decided on titanium.manifold studs. Got them from accross the pond as they were half the cost of the brand sold in the states. Also, I was happy that even with the mufflers this system was 2lbs lighter then the factory sytem with fabspeed cans. https://www.stringtheorygarage.com/p...it-911-991-gt3 Titanium Centered out Sexy

Looks absolutely sick! Nice performance exhausts look so good on a 911 makes you want to drive with no bumper so others can admire the engineering Look forward to hearing it!

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thanks for all the info, my engine is fine. I�m better off putting a 3.6 or 3.8 when the time comes, a lot more cost effective. I�m taking the turbo to 625 hp and that�s going to be fun.

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Me too. Ill have to wait on the fuel sender. It had to be shipped from germany but my dealer can rush for a fee. Hopefully its here next week. Usually the veiw of most when the big picture is presented. Thats where the turbo should have been from the factory . Good luck.

Who needs a bumber !! Looks nice !!!

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Dont think i havent thought about it

So im just waiting in some orings in the trans cooler and the fuel sending unit to arrive from germany and ill be ready to go with an alignment. I was able to tap a hole for the trans oil temp into the cooler mounting block. Its a little close to the fill plug but the cooler blocks it anyways I am also trying my hand at some body work. I really hate it but im trying to save some money. I have the old rear bumper from the donor and its not worth much so im trying to fill the side exhaust cut outs and make it into a cup bumper. I cut the shapes cut into rigid foam and glassed them up. I guess we will see how it turns out... i have low expectations in myself but i have friends that can make it look decent after i do the bulk work. Plan is to panel bond them in and bondo the gaps.

Well the bumper is off to my body shop buddy. The fiberglass work is ok but i think im gonna cut the exhaust port filler pieces out and cut the rear of the bumper higher like a real cup bumper. I did get the orings for the trans cooler and thats all together but i am disappointed af because the upper section of the fuel sender i ordered for half of the entire assemble was identicle but is missing the supply and return ports. I should have the full assembly early next week.

Assuming you pulled the pic from FVD. Not sure why they show a 997 for the 996 cup bumper listing.

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Its clearly in the 996 cup page. It is a 997.1 cup exhaust so it would still be "correct" . It does say 996 gt3 cup tribute so thats why it looks like a 997.1 cup cumper. https://www.fvd.net/de-en/9965054119...78-kg-grp.html

Good progress dejeeper im one step closer to getting your old exhaust yeah me 😃

Pretty sure I told you to just cut the bumper. Not saying I told ya so, just saying... I told ya so. Either way, I'm going to give you an A for effort and you can fiberglass for me any day

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Hay Aaron if you are not going to use that connector-less cover I could probably use it. I'm converting to AN lines so I can stuff a lot of E85 through it. Need a blank cover to add bulkhead fittings.

Had to take a few days off to go to Denver for a family function. I doooooo miss the rockies. This weekend i got the fuel sender installed and worked in getting the new aim unit installed. Its really designed tl sit in front of the cluster but with all my trim pieces in place it really didnt fit. So i designed an aluminum mount that comes through the left side of the horseshoe. I didnt have anything in those 3 buttons anything. The mount works but u thunkn ts a little too bulky. When i get some time in the future ill cut the bracket back flush to the horseshoe and mount a Ram ball and use a long arm. I also have the modified rear bumper mocked up. Still needs some work for the cup tow hook and the old exhaust ports. I still may make a knoch in the center. It will most likely be primer grey for the first couple weeks of the season until i have time to get back into the body shop. First fit Stuffened it up with the aluminum glue gum Pass side view From the drivers seat Modified bumper

I also have my Aim Solo 2 dl for sale with the mount and cables. Asking $700 and will ship 4 free if one of u 996 guys want it. Send a pm if interested.

So the aligment is done. Increased the camber some. Front is 3.8* and 1mm tow out, rear is 3.5* and 1mm tow in. No idea what the front caster is. I have tarret adjustable caster pucks and i was just trying to center the wheel in well but no matter what i do i hit the plastic liners front and back. Ill need to mod the radiator fan mount for more cleance in the future. Also paInted up the bumper with some single stage paint that my napa paint store mixes up and can put in cans. Its race car body work and paint. At least it doesnt look like a honda civic with primer panels. Ill let the body shop clean it up when i get a few weeks between events. On thr 4 post for the alighnment Paint does dry darker. Its not a bad match 4 now.

The paint actually looks pretty good coming from a can......it's actually better than some "factory orange peal" jobs I have seen out of Detroit...lol

Out in the wild and ready for the track in friday...a whole day early . Just need to set up the Aim tonight.

Looks ready to slay.

Well first day on the track for 2023 in the books. I was on Thunderbolt at NJMP. The weather was miserable. 1 session was wet from heavy rains the night before. Next 3 sessions it rained and the last 2 dried out some. I was 25.sec off my pace. I did go off track and spun when i came back on track in the 2nd session. Luckily i was only doing 40mph and only damage.wss cracked under tray pan. I probably wont have my vids ready for a few days but here is a pic.

My very short 2nd session.....didnt even make it a lap. You Tube

Yikes, that looked like fun (not). I almost spun my VW at Palmer in the rain, not a place you want to go off at. I really don't like rainy track days and I don't care what anyone else says.

Not a bad recovery. I think I'd have puckered pretty hard thinking about that overpass coming at me though!

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U would think but i had some traction in the grass, mud rut? I actually thought i was gonna drive right up onto the asphalt but it hooked. If u look i wasnt on the gas or brake because i was only going 40mph.....it seemed like slow motion.

love seeing the videos sir! Keep it up

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Unfair. From here I'd say you were reasonably polite and didn't deserve it one bit. Rude.

Got some downloadable fvd power to take care of the flat spot in the torque curve about 5k rpm caused by the exhaust. Also some laps from last sat. I was chasing an e-30 that was driven well. Im still a few sec off my pace but it was only 55*.. You Tube

A couple more track days under my belt and im basically at the speeds i was at, the end of last year. I did have a rear bumper melt down. I dont have the heat shields in there so the lisence plate holder screw plugs failed but the lower screws held. The weight of the plate pushed the soft bumper toward the exhaust and the whole assembly started to fall off. Luckily i was black flaged before i lost the plate. Time to fab up simething and graft it into that bumper. Ill also get some more track vids and oil pressure data out soon.

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Yeah some good Samaritan reported you before it went through his center radiator. Also that's a pretty nice looking Touareg there.

Yeah that's a sweet Touareg Diesel. I envy you guys, I've only had time for one TNIA crashfest this year. I got a total of 11 laps in three sessions because of all the black flags.

[Image-only post; no author-written text. Original image references:] https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlist.com-vbulletin/1125x576/vlcsnap_2023_05_15_13h41m19s108_2__f394c6cd05e635f67183e20323cfca465c2e270a.png

Quotes source post: 18803625

I'm melting, I'm melting... I really like the way that bumper looks so I'm sure you'll get it straightened out. Wish I could get rid of my bumperettes. Is that camera faking me out or do you have a lot of camber on the rear wheels?

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I really like the cup look too. No camera tricks...i think. The back is 3.5* but i need to dial it back to 3.1ish. The insides r wearing toi much.

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great

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FWIW if you don't know about : Helicoil is old and crappy. A Helicoil is just a wound spring that fills grooves, is not strong in a linear sense. There are German (I think, dunno for sure) things called "Time-Certs They are and actual solid zig-zag metal part (steel I think). part. One drills out the "hole" with correct size drill that also cuts a small "ledge" for the Time-Cert. Then you "tap" the hole with a Roll Tap that bottoms out. The insert is put in the threaded hole and the roll tap releases the Time-Cert at the bottom, comes out and hooray. it is almost as good as new and waaay better than a Helicoil. I have a box kit, say 4"H x 16"W x 12"L that has sizes from 4mm to 14mm diameter studs. It has been really handy to have at times exactly like what your trans bolts so graciously offered for you to fix. JMO and thought. No offense if you already know about it, blh, blah, blah. I have used these Time-Certs for years fixing pulled studs and whatever on Porsche aluminum parts. YMMV PS Exhaust looks great, but.... you can't put a trailer hitch on now!

It's Time-sert... https://www.timesert.com/

Well the timeserts were not available at the time and since i have done over 40 track days since that repair im 100% certain the heiciols r adiquate. It the motor even needs a rebuild the machinist can fix it properly In other news i have done some upgrades this off season. Upgraded the rear lca with tarret uniball units and the front got Rennline arms due to a screaming deal on a barely used set. Also working on cleaning up the bumpers, i really hate bodywork. The other 2 upgrades are a new rs style cage that bolts to the floor and a Sabelt halo seat. Both used but in like new condition.

Oh and this tonight. Front bumper is next. Sprayed my track car bumper under my truck that i just got running after a motor rebuild. Kinda getto but i used a base and clear from a can. Its real automotive paint from napa that they put in aresol cans.

That looks pretty good from a rattle can !!

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Huh, Helicoil old and crappy ? You Tube You Tube Nothing wrong with Time-Serts, but they're not superior to good old-fashioned Helicoils, and they cost a lot more.

Alignment time again. Went 3.1* camber and -1.5mm toe for the rear and 4.0* camber with +1.5mm toe in front. I wanted a little more camber in front but even with the tarett high camber uppers i maxed out the adjustment on the rss arms. There r some things i can do if i need more camber in the future. I was around 4.0* last year and the tire wear looked decent. I also spent some time and got the wheel base squared up. Porsche literature says wheelbase is 92.6" and since i pushed the fan assemblies foward 3/4" i streched the wheelbase to 93". Im hoping to keep the larger track wheel/tires out of the fender liners this year.

It's looking good, Aaron!

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Wizard. Once again.

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Not really but thx. I bought that string kit used for $400 and had a local small shop machinist make the hub stands about $600. At $250 per alignment it doesnt take much to recoop your money expecially if u r adjusting for tire wear and upgrading components for the track. It still takes me.5-6hrs but its better then leaving it at a shop to pay good.money for what i can do just as well at home.

And, do it the way you want not to mention riding herd on The overall suspension and car in a way that only you, as owner, has the capacity for. Who knows what the alignment guy sees or does during the process. And, By the time you take the car, drop it off, come back to retrieve it, and head home it's likely about a wash time wise. I'd say it's Smart money in your case for sure.

More prep today. I got the new rss roll bar in. Its made like the rs cage and it bolts through the floor. Its real nice for tall people like me too because the b-pillar sits tight to the step up for the back seat and not the seat belt bolt.i also got the new Sabelt halo sest installed but misordered the extension for the ohlin **** to the pass seat stays out for now. The seat is pretty tight and maybe a holo wasnt the right choice but man this seat is comfy and nice.

Well since i spent a ton of time and some decent $ on fixing and respraying the front and rear bumper i am doing something i thought i would never spend money on.....ppf. it goes in wed for Expel-ing the front bumper, i just dont feel like doing the body work every year. In other news i just passed my PCA national instructor class. Not sure how much instructing i will do but i figured i would give it a try. It may also allow me to do a few morw events because u get a significant discount as a reward for the work.

Congrats on becoming a PCA instructor !!!

Welcome to the club, it can be really rewarding, and sometimes a little terrifying 💩 On the PPF, I�ve been told you need to let the respray cure for a few months before applying it. Worst case is it peels off the paint if you remove it.

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Thx. Well my respray was out of a can so maybe it will be better . If the ppf ever comes off im sure it will be because i did something bad to the bumper and it would needs painted again anyways.

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Congrats Aaron! One of the few instructors I'd let drive my car.

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Thx, never driven a turbo 996 .

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Congrats and welcome to the instructor corps! It's very rewarding and I find it helps improve my own driving as I am constantly emphasizing and reinforcing proper driving techniques with my students which forces me to apply those techniques in my own driving.

Thx, ill probably start out with just a day or 2 at njmp. I know the tracks well and i can instruct for single day events. I guess we will see how it goes?

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So, do I like specially request you as my instructor...

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i guess.....i have seen u drive, u need the help Ill see u at lrp.

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Drives just like your gt3ish, shift at 5800-6000 because the small turbos I have give up above that, but you have at least 400 ft/lb from 3000 up so it doesn't matter. Maybe I can hit NJMP sometime this year, really want to.

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Well im your huckleberry if u make it down this way.

Well im bumping my thread because i have been lazy. Ordered a bunch of new stuff like 997 underpans and 6-gt3rs rear uprights to match my front upgraded parts. Probably install everything toward mid feb.

Tims for another update... the rear uprite upgrade has been great and i got in about 20 track days until the inevitable happened. I exited t7 at vir stage right. As far as i can tell the lower coolant hose on the drivers side radiator burst and washed the left side of the car as i hit the gas to go up the hill it went into a flat spin. I loosened my grip and palmed the steering wheel (didnt want broken fingers), clutched in, light brake, closed my eyes and waited for the wall. Hit the front pretty square into the tires a couple hundred feet away. All the safety gear worked well.... firesuit (not needed), gloves, helmet, hans, 6 point belts and a halo seat. I feel fine today sands a small bruise under my naval from the buckle i consider my self lucky the car slowed enough. I really have to pull the damaged fenders to inspect more but a found a 3" split in the hose that i dont think was caused from the hit and i got a report of "smoke" from under the car from another driver the turn before. So now is where here the bs begins......i was sitting against the wall aftter giving the flager i was facing a thumbs up for 10, 20,.30, 40 sec +. No yellow flag and no black flag. I watch a dozen cars go up the esses at full speed. Then i hear the unmatakable sound of a car breaking traction. At the moment (couldnt see that direction because i follow the rules) and i was in my seat strapped in, waiting for safety to arrive i knew i was about to get hit. I got small in the drivers seat (drivers door was exposed to the track side), the s2000 hit the tire wall behind me and rotated into the back of the car. Lucky again. I open my eyes see him in the side mirror giving the thumbs up and i start screaming at the top of my lungs at the flagger station (i know he cant hear me but it makes me feel better to also give him the finger repetedly). I was so hot because that guy just totaled his car and hit me for no reason. 15 sec later the black flag finally comes out. Chin and other got an earfull but i never found the race control peraon. I really need to pull my data for the time stamp and they get the data from my friends garmin to put together a solid timeline but it was a pethetic response from a "pro" track. Bottom line.... im fine, car is repairable, other driver was fine, both of us had track insurance and invested in decent safety. Now some pics.

WOW !! So glad Y'all are ok and had Track Insurance so that GT3ish will be back out there soon !!!!

oh no! glad you're ok

Really sorry to see this but super happy all the prep kept you safe. Thanks for the description of all yours actions through the event. It always amazes me how fast our brains can work in fast stressful situations. Looking forward to watching the repairs.

Wow! Super glad you’re ok, Aaron! Not a proud moment for Chin. They literally left your *** hanging. Flag 101 - Car off, flag up and waving, get on the radio. Small comfort Is it’s near end of the season. Wonder why the hose let go.

Thx guys i appreciate the support. Only thing i can figure is they thought i was sooooo far off track there would be no way another car would collect me? The clean up crew never found fluid on the track so i dumped just enough to wet my tires and effect the unlucky s2000. Claim has been made and ill wait for the adjuster before i start tearing inro it. From the outside i need: 2 of the following......fenders, headlights, headlight mounts, condencers, rads, air guides, hoses, hardware, misc plasic under bumper, fan assemblies, fender liners, gts ducts 1 of Center rad and hardware, parts to duct up, gt3 front bumper cover, crash bar, tow hook, rear bumper, rear crash bar (maybe) 2 rear tail lights, fvd exhaust pipe(s) Its gonna add up because im sure ill have to pull some metal in the front and back but ill get it done over the winter.

I know nothing about track insurance. Is it a possibility the insurance might total the car? Is that an option open to them or is it covered no matter the cost? Glad you're OK.

Oh crap! Really sorry to hear about this and really glad you're ok. Somewhat ironically the sticker on your door says Safety Third but very glad you had all the necessary safety equipment in place and that it did it's job. Will some of that equipment, like harness, helmet, seat, will need to also be replaced after being in an accident?

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Track insurance you have a declared value with a deductible that is a percentage of the DV. You pay the whole deductible no matter the amount of the claim. I believe Aaron told me if they total it he cannot purchase it back from them directly, it goes to auction.

Any chance the flagman was previously employed by the NFL or MLB

Well, that ppf stuff sure didn't work to keep bumper in tidy shape! Kidding, I joke. I am very glad you are OK and came out of the incident in 1 piece. However, it is gonna take a lot of putty and paint to make the car look like what it ain't. Perhaps you could replace the engine with a different one, save some bits and pieces? Don't know. My ex-wife totaled a 911S, no panel left straight, glass gone, 2 Fuch wheels cracked etc. The car was totaled, but I learned that "friends" replaced the engine with a different one before it finally went to the crusher/or-wherever. Glad you are still with us, terrific person. YMMV

So the insurance is a agreed value. $40k minus 10% deductable in my case i tried to value my car much higher but they wouldnt because its a 25 yr/old c2. If they force me into a total they will get a 25 yr/old c2 to auction off. Since they dont (wont) value the upgrades they wont get them. The company rep is a p-car club racer and im sure it wont get to that point. U guys really just get the benifit of more content over the winter

Happy to hear you're ok... On the gas exiting turn 7 @ VIR,,, iirr speed of 80-90mph..? Yup, all things considered, you & your car handled that 'exit very well....

Sorry to see the car, but mostly glad you are ok and unhurt. Will be following the winter rebuild closely. -KJ

I’m glad you’re ok. Cars can be repaired or replaced.

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Usually 105-110 but maybe a tick slower?. I hope to pull the vid tonight if i can get it back off the truck and in the garage.

Scary, glad you are okay. I suppose there will be lessons learnt for everyone involved but its another project to keep you busy! I hope the damage is mostly aesthetic

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Dang Jeeper, that's a bummer. I concur with Tex. Glad you're ok but it's gotta just hurt in so many ways. What a shame the other driver got shunted as well, that would have been hella frustrating for sure. Here's to a speedy recovery for you and your ride.

Whoa Aaron that totally sux. Cross fingers you don't feel any after effects and the only harm is to your checkbook.

I have been supplied video from a car behind and frankly its kinda hard to watch. I wont be posting it as its not from my equipment.. It turns out i was under throddle in turn t8b and wound up by s9. Still have to get my video downloaded.

Great thread. Love the extra pics. It will be interesting to see what motor goes in. 4.0?

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Keep reading i wont spoil it for u but i have be driving the new set up for 3 yrs now.

Glad to see you are ok Arron! Bummer about the damage, but at least you were able to walk away.

Dude you must like biting dust. Crazy story, especially the stuff about corner workers. It's a thankless job, granted, but if you are gonna do it then do it right. Glad you are essentially unhurt. That's the big thing.

Got the car off the truck and its not too bad. In the rear under the bumper the crash bar is bent and the tail light pocket needs work. It also pushed in the corner of the trunk a little. The fiberglass on the getty lid is also spit. in the front it ls also the crash bar, all the plastic, rads, condensors, fans and brackets, fender liners and head light washers. Looks like the frunk lip is bent in some. The biggest issue is the frunt tub as a tire must have crushed it in pretty good. It just soft sheet metal but not sure if it will have to be cut out to be fixed. Looks like the strut towers r fine but it will get put on an alignnmet rack after the adjuster sees it.

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I have the washers from my car. You are welcome to them.

ill need them . go it blown apart for the adjuster and the offending hose.

What upgrades can you remove if the adjuster doesn't give you value for them in a case like this?

My interpretation is its agreed valie based on the vin and they wont let me over value the car for upgrades. So if the car had to go to auction it probably will be a stockish car again.

So glad you are ok and you had insurance. You are right, whoever was in Race Control really let you down. On a track day, the trigger should be very light, no reason to "leave them till the end of session". VIR does eat cars, that is for sure. I work in tech for SRO, and we are not going there next year. Facilities are getting a bit ragged and cost is super high. Hope you get back next year. Also, for the driver gear, if the helmet did not hit any padding, then it is fine. Strongly recommend replacing belts and the Hans strap. In SRO, we cut the belts out if we see structural damage. Glad it did the work.

Thx. Waiting on some hoses to loop the rad lines. Then ill hook the batery back up and fire the motor. Ill download the data and i should be able to see the g forces of the hit. I hit the tire wall heading up hill in a clockwise spin but my trajectory was uphill so it was not a hard hit. The adjuster is scheduled for 10ish tomor. I guess we will see how he prices it out.

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Man I'm sorry, that bit about race control was hard to read. Even more so because you were trying to get the corner worker to do the right thing for the other participants and they were just asleep. Hope it is just time and money in the end. If the damage to the rear causes the car to go over the totalling threshold, you might have a case against the org. It sounds like Jeeper's policy doesn't cover mods, so you can/would have to remove and deal with all of them separately. On the plus side if you get to keep your mods + $40k, that's not a bad place to start for a next project.

No recourse as u basically sign your life and property away when u enter the track. Adjuster viewed the car today so there is some progess. I should have some numbers early next week.

So sorry to hear about this. I know how much work you put into the car. I sure did admire it when we did the Dragon Run. Hope it works out with the insurance company. If I can help you in any way please let me know. Mark

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??

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The bot has struck again!!

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Yeah, that drive train and chassis are mods worth keeping for sure. Going to be interesting, hoping for good outcome.

Made an arrangement with the insurance company so they would not total the car. I still need to get the car on an alignment rack next week to verify its straight (99% sure it is) and ill finalize the paper work. Anyone in the mid-atlantic area have front end parts before i start buying off ebay and dcauto? I think im gonna just get a get an aftermarket rear bumper because of the center exhaust. I would like a factory front aero but that may be an aftermarker cup bumper?.i guess ill have to see whats floating around.

Awesome.

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Yeah, it sucks that you gotta go thru it, but the good news is you have the chance to rebuild and enhance it any way you want. Good luck with the project.

Just my opinion from looking at all your pics... That tub needs to be changed to be right. Big job that needs a lot of expertise & a rack to be done 100% correctly. I've done front end body repair on the 996 cars. Even used eBay Parts/salvage yard parts/etc, they are expensive and always are in worse condition then their pics show... And you need a lot of parts. For the price of a nice never crashed roller now a days, that might be something to consider, maybe even a better option. If you look hard enough,,, Seen blown engine nice rollers go for $5k. Transfer the Mezger /wiring/good suspension parts/ etc, all over to the straight roller. Use all the left over parts you need, and have enough parts left over to pay for the roller. Like I said, parts are incredibly expensive for 996, you could clean up on used part sales at your leisure. Don't think any body parts go for under $500 if in good condition... Then you got interior parts also... And m96 parts that are still good. Good m96 Heads are a hot commodity lately... Just a thoughtt and different way to go about this repair thats kind of unique to the blown engine roller world of the 996... JMHO

I have debated this and may have to go this way if the chassis is bent. The problem is its about 100hrs of labor to move the drivetrain. Ill know more next week after i check to see if its staight.

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I understand, valid point. Especially for a seasoned professional on the clock body shop. But for me, and I've done a lot of auto body work, lots,,, It would probably take me almost if not more time(100hr..?) to put that wreck back together again with used parts. Thats including all the panel alignments to get the perfect gaps. That hood to fender to door to bumper gap on the 996 can be a PIA to get right after a front end crash... Especially with bent inner structure. Then the paint prep and paint work on used parts is time consuming and tedious. On another note, this would be your second time doing the swap. Probably be faster and you might even have a few things you'd like to do different/better this time around..? Either way, sure you'll get it back together better than ever. With a little luck, you might even find used fenders/bumpers/hood already painted the right color...

Gezz, I am sorry to see this. It sucks even more when it is due to factors outside of your own control... Glad you are not harm at least. I hope you get back on track soon. Given your track record, I don't think it will be too long.

And so the rebuild begins, kinda. I accepted an amount.from the insurance company and signed off on a no suppliment to keep the car. Now that i have some $ i bought some repro bumper covers from GT Racing. Gonna be about 6 weeks for delivery and i hope they r decent. I have also located a dismantler about 1.5hrs away that has all the other parts i need. Ill probably get them the week after next. Im gonna get the rads from fcp as the center was ought from them originally and that one will be free. Ill get the other 2 from the credits i have with them. I have a friend that used to work at a body shop and it looks like ill be able to bring the car down on a weekend and pull the rear. Hope that will be done before c-mas

De jeeper good luck with your endeavor im confident you have the knowledge and desire to be back better

I was sorry to see about your off track excursion. I'm glad that you are OK. I spotted this car a while back in my area (Boise) and considered it. I bought another car instead. Over the winter I'm building a car, so I can get back into doing open track events. I don't know how many engine parts are shared between the turbo and the GT3. This is a low mile 996tt, with what the seller is calling a microcrack in the cylinder head. It is currently at $45k, and maybe you could get it for what your insurance payed out. I am in no way affiliated with the seller. Just trying to help. Good luck. It appears to have more than the asking price in modifications. https://www.facebook.com/marketplace...1-f59c809a9ae7

Thx but the 2 motors have the same case but the internals r all different and fortunately the drivetrain was fine. I really only need body work and most of the turbo parts r different.

Dang, just getting caught up on all the action... Bummer it happened but it seems to be heading in the right direction. How old were the hoses? Are there better hoses to upgrade to? (Samco still a thing/ upgrade?)

The hoses are all about 3 years old. I bought a mix of factory and aftermarket hoses. Its impossible for me to know which that hose was. It must have had a defect as the coolant system just doesnt make that much pressure. The replacement hoses will all be factory porsche.

Wow, this sucks, **** luck. Sorry dude.

Thx..... Porsche plastic sure is expensive, luckily i live 20min from de porsche and can buy from their discount site amd pick it up. Heading to the dismantler on wed to grab all the used parts. Liners, cowl, gt2 plenum, hoses and various bits.

More parts. I drove up ro R&D Exotic about 1.5hrs from me and grabed most of the used stuff i needed. They said they had both headlights and tails but they only had 1 headlight. It needs @TheChunkNorris to work his magic on it but im gonna try to restore it myself with his suggested methods and products. I did get the other head light off ebay but i srill need some tail lights. The rad came in from fcp and the side rads will be here tomor. If anyone has any they replaced with a few small cracks i would be interested if the price is right. It seems ebay has really good ones and trash. I would hate to buy perfect ones for this car but i still want it to look decent.

When I needed tail lights for my black Turbo I found the dealer price for new ones was a lot less than ebay for used ones! That was in 2020 and might have changed.

The turbo stuff is cheaper for what ever reason.... DePorsche is about $600 ea.and one side is unavailable. Specialize German has nice ones for $400 (not sure if they have both sides). The rest of them on ebay range from $100-350 and most look like trash. The aftermarket lights look even worse.i dont facebook so im not sure if anything is on market place.

I think you'd be surprised by the gems you can find on FB Marketplace, you just also have to deal with the room-temperature IQ of most buyers and sellers there. Happy to sell you my used stock taillights if you still need them - I have @TheChunkNorris 's Spyders to put on.

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ill shoot u a pm with my number....if they r clears (not amber) iay be interested.

Bummer to hear things went south. Especially one to love over that mileage. Poetic much die while racing. What a way to go.

Fyi ti all....Dc Auto has a 25% off on all in stock parts. I was able to order a decent drivers side tail light for a decent price and a few other smalls. Still need a pass side tail.

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They�d be a good track set up.

Spent some time today (4hr) working on that headlight. With the missing clear coat and the deep yellowing i had to hand sand with 320 and 400. When i tried to use ths rotary tool it burned the clear. I was able to smooth it and get the yellow out and then hand sand with 800 and 1000. Then i used 1500, 2000 and 3000 with the rotary tool. Im still gonna go back with the rotarty tool with the 3 grades to try and clean it up a little more. @TheChunkNorris tells me the 2k clear will make it look even better. The other headlight came in and i deff have to sand that one out too. It also needs some wiring repair so i depined a few connectors and ordered some heat shrink. Ill need some gaskets too. I thought @Adrian Taillights had them but i did not see them on the web site so left them a message. Maybe @playswithcars can chime in? Bad clear pass side Sanded out New drivers is in better shape but has a scratch that may not come out.

So what do u do on a snow day....the other headlight of course. I was able to sand out a scratch but its a hint more yellow then the other one. I think its actually in the inside. I think the donor saw a lot of direct sun?

Yeah, not bad though. Probably wouldn't really notice unless you are looking for it. Plus, race car!

Kinda a slow night. I salvaged the harness out of my blown up lights and pulled the headlight hieght motor harness out of them and the new to me lights because they were all falling apart. The rest of the wiring was good except tor the external turn signal section. I depinned and used some 1/4" heat shrink to protect. I would get the 3-1 shrink because the 2-1 is a little loose but does the job. I could have bought new motor harness from Adriens but im cheap and already spent too much on these lights.

Well they r clear coated. Not near as good as @TheChunkNorris would have done but its fine for a trackish car. There just seems to be deap swirls in the one light and i dont understand how. I could not see them bedore the clear. They will get 3m film in them anyway to help protect from track damage.

Holiday gift to me. Im upping my alignment game with some parts i got for a good price. Drive up platform, scales, digital rotation pads, hub stands and some smart string parts. I already have smart strings so those parts will be 4 sale. It looks lile i have 2 sets of the universal brackets that hook into the frunk and motor compartments. Its missing the x-bars. I need to clean them up some and verify everything but if anyone wants a set let me know.

Hah did you grab this from facebook marketplace? I believe I might have seen it on there. Nice pick up and should make alignment even more precise now.

you know, crashing a car on track is pretty scary, and expensive, but somehow I think you are enjoying this process to get it going again. DeJeeper the Builder. Continued Great work!

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It was on fb but its a small community. I met the guy picking up a tail light of ebay and he mentioned that he had the alignment tools so we made the deal (much less then the fb price). It all came from Magnus Racing. I do enjoy the building and buying new stuff but its much easier to not wreck it and just drive.

Pulled some sheet metal and got it pretty good. Probably better then it was when u bought the car.

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Looking good my man!

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I know its a long thread but its a "build" thread so go back to the begining and enjoy.

can't wait to see it back together!

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Thx, me too. im kind of in a holding pattern for a few weeks until the bumpers get here. Need to make sure all pieces fit together.

Nice to see her get all straightened out! It is an art to pull a chassis correctly, did some back in the day and it was quite an experience to learn from a master.

Still waiting on the bumpers but i invested in a 6-cup trans. It was pulled from the cup car because of a bad 2nd gear or ability to shift into 2nd. The 4:1 final drive appears to be in good shape so between that and the cup ls i got a decent deal even if i have to put some coin into the rebuild. I figure it will cost another $6-8k in parts for the rebuild. Its pricey but i can do it on my own time and still drive the car on the gt3 trans. I have a friend locally that builds mezgers and turbo trans so he is going to inspect the parts and help me with the assembly. Only issue is some moisture got into the shipping container a few parts may need to be polished or replaced. The seller said he would make good on any parts that were ruined. Also helping out a mustang friend. its an '05 with a '13 coyote motor. Its suprising good on the track. He was at vir the day i got the tires and he also went into the tires at turn 3 but at a much slower speed. We had to remove the rad core support and r waiting for a new one. Its only $150...so cheap.

Now I understand that text you sent me. I have some used G50 trans parts if you get in a pinch.

Looks like the 2 pitted shift rods r about $100ea so thats not bad. Im a little woried about the seal surface on the outer flange and thats about $500 so hopefully it can be polished. A few of the pinion teeth also have some pitting but i dont think that will be an issue as i expect this gear set will make some noise. Its an 8:32 tooth count so the pinion teeth hit the same ring teeth on every revolution. Since the trans is apart there is no way to get it on the original pattern. A shop would replace with new but since it s a $3k gear set and mine looks good, ill run it.

I don't have shift rods. I have some shift forks, input shaft & 1/2/3 gearsets & syncros, I might have a 5th or 6th gear set. Some worn out bearings . The gears are Turbo ratios, obviously, as I changed to the 997 GT2RS gears.

Stacked all the gears. At least one set is a GT replacement set. Gonna line up the shift forks tonight and count all the teeth to verify ratios. I have a long list of bearings, bushings, snap rings and other stuff but im affraid to look it all up to see how much the parts will be . Gear stack without bearings

^^^^ Probably start with a 3 and add three zeros.

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I would be happy with that but 4 steel syncros at $420ea and $1200 for the ls clutches (the 2 parts i did look up).....i would be happy if that 1st number was less then a 6.

I just counted the teeth on the cup trans and its been optimised for sebring. Im probably going to do something awesome (or dumb) im going to make my car faster by slowing it down. The gears r set as a close ratio and they moved the factory cup 5th to 6th and added new 2-5th gears. Now the trans has no overdrive. The top speed will be 151.5 at 8200 rpm. Highway driving will be at 4k rpm at 75mph. The car has very limited hw driving so u can live with it. If i keep these gears i slow the top speed and ill have to shift a lot more but it really keeps the motor in the power thus making me faster. Here is the graphs. 1st is what i have, 2nd is stock mk2 cup, 3rd is if i slide the 6th back to 5th and add back in the factory 6th. I dont like rhe 4th to 5th so i would probably have to change 4th too. Maybe swap the 6th to a .95 if available to get more top speed?

I would keep 1-5 the same and just change 6th. Most of the time your 6th gear is only engaged when you're already near vmax on a long straight, so the acceleration isn't as important as gears 1-5, and if you're gonna be going over 155mph, you would rather avoid sitting on redline. The slightly lost acceleration in 6th is a small price to pay for reduced engine risk.

Issue is vmax of 5th is near max speed of a lot of different straight aways so ill probably have to short shift into 6th so i dont hit redline or i dont shift too late and not be able to time the braking. If i go with a lower # gear that short shift will be even lower in the power.. i think ill just keep it and see how it is.

Lucky you, starting with body work after a shunt and ending up with a custom transmission. I would like to gear down a bit and now I'm getting ratio envy since losing a few mph off the top would be a good trade for better grunt.

Got a little bit done now that i have the new front bumper. Its pretty good for a fiberglass repo race part. I would rate it a 7 out of 10. The snow day allowed me to get some things alligned but the yard gave me a mk2 drivers fender so that has to be swapped this week. I also got the frunk banged out and the center rad/gt2 plenum test mounted. It all fit without issue so the mounts all went back close enough.

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If you don't mind what did you pay for this bumper?

Nice work! What model the center radiator is from, since it has the air exit shroud pointing up?

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Its a GT Racing bumper. The front was $1500 amd rear center tail pipe exit, cup style was $800. Plus $265 for shipping. So u basically got bitg bumpers for the cost if a mk1 front aero bumper i will eventually get a factory cover but this is perfect for tracking The rad is a regular cfs center for a 996. The plentum is a factory :03-05 gt2 plenum (about $300). Its ungodly expensive if u buy all the gt2 parts but with some creativity u can get it to work with the standard bracket and hoses. Im prerty sure u posted pics in this thread when i installed it the 1st time.

Thanks I just removed one from my car along with the side skirts and Aero kit wing all of the parts are Fiberglass I'm trying to figure out a fair price to sell them for used they need some body work but the fitment was great. The side skirts have a few cracks probably from improper jacking. And the front bumper has spider crack in the paint where someone bumped it. And the rear deck lid had hood pins at some point that where filled but show. I removed them because they needed body work and I got a good deal on the Stock parts in the correct Paint Code. I'm planning on selling them locally in SW Florida

My rule of thumb is 50% of new if in good shape. For those parts u would have to try to figure out who really made them because the prices vary some

it's looking great I feel like you could take the whole car apart and put it back together in a weekend!

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That might be optimistic, but i could deff do it in 3 weekends .

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8 weeks til Thunderbolt

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Ill be on track.....may look like a '96 vw gulf but ill be there in april.

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Factory built Harlequins are big money these days. I'd love to have one.

Got some more done but i still have a few hours of fitting before it can be broken down for paint. Its amazing how long ot takes to get it right. U forget about the hours u spent on fitment over time. When u have to do it all at once it takes forever. Hopefully ill have the rear bumper this week. Unfortunately the exhaust took a bigger hit then i thought and its gonna take some work. Its not gonna look pretty but it willl be functional. The M&M stuff is just gonna be too much $ to replace right now.

It looks really cool for now in all different colors. I dig it, great work dude.

The homade Exhaust Expander 2000 Kit did pretty good. I should have taken a before pic but u can get the idea of the damage. It was crushed in and ovaled. I still have 1 more section to fix. Its not gonna be perfect because FVD (M&M) wanted $2500 for just the tail pipe section! I was affraid to ask what the catted x-pipe i just repaired cost. They want more for the tail pipe then i paid for the entire exhaust.

Got half the tail pipe done. Not sure how to get the last dent out. Probably gonna require some cuttung and welding. Also found my Rennline semisolid mount bushings were blown out. Didnt realize the bushings were wear items. Ill probably swap out the mounts for simething different in the future but for now i spent $60 for replacement poly.

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Nice job on the exhaust. I’ve done this with oil lines on air-cooled 911’s and expect it will work on your exhaust to. ”To repair a crushed metal oil line, remove it, clean it with solvent, and plug one end. Attach a regulated compressed air line (10-15 PSI, up to 100 PSI max) to the other end, then heat the damaged area with a torch until hot (not red-hot) to allow the pressure to pop the dent out” Good luck 👍

Heat and air as mentioned in the post above, or hear and various pry bars. Another thing I have seen, is to find a steel ball the same size (or very close), heat the pipe, drive the steel ball thru the pipe. -Tom

Yea i like those ideas but the metal is pretty thick and stainless. Im not sure if i can close the ends and add enough preasure. If i was a better machinist the ball idea might work but because of the bends it would be hard to hit it through. I may weld some nuts to the outside and slide hammer out the dent. The part looks like stock bends and i may remake the section next winter if the dents bug me

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De Jeeper has a GT3 M96/76 3.6 engine, not an M96.0x 3.4.

Me thinks that post is in the wrong thread? Either way i did as much as im gonna do with the exhaust. I feel its acceptable. With an infinite amount of time i could have done better but its just gonna have to be a reflextion of me....a little flawed I welded a nut to the last spot, heated and used a slide hammer. Worked pretty good. It did tear in a few spots but i can mig stainless and grind it back. Next is modifiing the front crash bar so i can use a cup style tow hook and still have protection. I did the same thing in the back and im glad o did, the damage would have been much worse. Have to tie it in since the tow hook occupies the space where the inpact shock goes.

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This was going to be my suggestion -- ish. I was going to suggest drilling a hole and inserting a screw. The welded nut sounds like a better idea.

I was hoping to pitch in and help, but the random extra taillight I have leftover is a driverside, not passenger side.

If its in good shape i still might like to have it . I have to check the ones i have as i only have 1 that is nice, the others r acceptable for the track. I have to look and see which side my good one is.

Made a Breaking Bad paint booth and my friend Don shot the primer on the parts last weekend. Tonight i wet sanding with 600 and hopefully the color will be on it soon.

Hey, it’s science, yo!

And just like that its Guards red. Actually it took about $1k of supplies, primer, paint and clear coat. Big thx to my friend Don for laying it down nicely. I hope the color match is close?

Well while my parts r waiting to be installed im enjoying a margerita at sebring watching carrera cup practice at the 12hr imsa race.

Got one wing done.

^^^ Awesome 👏

Good candidate for an Audi 2.7t swap. Renn27

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You must have missed the part where he GT3 swapped it.

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Imagine not knowing about GT3ish, shame on them! This is one of the coolest if not the coolest 996 on these forums.

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Thx...... Working on the other fender. They r kicking my butt. I think because i rolled the lips the arch shrank some. Lots of pushing and pulling. The line against the door isnt all that great but its fine for this car. Working on the hood line now.

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Oh, I know. Aaron gave me a ride in it.

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I would have let u drive it....maybe not on track but u can drive it And just like that she is back together and looking like a proper mk1....only took a 14 hr of work on a saturday. I have done a bunch of little things like move the rads foward 3/4 for wheel space and 2 front end incedents will do to the time line. All these small things r a time suck when trying to get it back together.

LOL that toolbox must nailed to the wall, with so many drawers open, I am surprised it hasn't tipped over Car looks great.

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Its a bad habit i guess but it only gets closed at the end of a job.....most because i seem to need everyrhing in for every job .

Fluids r done so now its set up time. Corner weights r out of wack from the accident so ill be doing ride height, corner balance and alignmnet. 1st step was measuring center line in the wheel hub for front and back with my track tires. Then ill do some math with the gt3 ride height numbers and set up the hub stands for the front to back height differences. i am basing myeasurements off a 250/650, 300/650 yokahama slick. The 650 is the height of the tire in mm. So after measuring the rear is 320mm and the front is 324mm. The difference is because of weight and different % of tire to rim width between the front and back. Its late so im done 4 tonight.

Spent about 7hrs last night taking the preload om the shocks to zero and trying to set the ride height and balance. My quest for perfection will not happen as i will hit some physical limits on the ohlins. I need to crank the rear driver and its as far as the spring asjuster will go and the front driver shock ride hight will be too high. Need to back some things off and find a compromise. Dont forget to weight the car for the driver. Best i could do but left front was 1" too high

I used shims between the rear upper mounts and the tub to get my height dialed in without too much preload on the springs. Worked great. I have 996 cup shocks and needed a bit more ride height.

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Unfortunately i need to go down not up. When i preload the spring the corner goes up but the shock can only go so far down into the upright before the adjuster **** gets blocked. I think its just a limit of the road and track shock. I could probably use a slightly stronger and shorter spring on that corner but i dont feel like doing the trial and error. The set up will be better then it was.

Well here is where the car landed. The green postit note has the ride heights. I used the published gt3 numbers. Its pretty much in the range +- a mm.it tooke 2 long evenings and many iterarions to get here. The race shops earn their money when they set up cars. Sorry the weights r in kg. The toggle on the scares is broken. Crods pecent is 49.5, not too bad as it was at 45% when i checked it last july.

Another couple of hours work. I put the tires back on the car and dropped it on the scales and measures it up. I wanted to make sure all my math was good and it was. The measurements r spot on and it weighs in at 3300lbs weighted. I also got the sway bars hooked up. It was nice to do on the scales to verify no preload. U just have to make sure the numbers r the same before and after hooking up the links. Here r the final numbers as it wull be tracked. Tomor will be for torquing everyrhing i adjusted and the alignment.

Another 12+ hours and i have the car dialed in. I started the alignment yeaterday after work. As i dialed it in it changed the ride height in the front so i had to do some resetting and align it again. Its just a long process, all 3 processes effect the others so u have to go in circles dialing it in until u get to the center. Im pretty happy with the set up. I hit my ride height goal, x-balance and the alignment specs i wanted. I hope the car responds. I should be test driving in tonight.

Very nice! With the attention to detail on setting this for the track, the car must handle real well. Could you share the alignment figures you're dialing in?

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He has it on the sheet Front 3mm total toe out and 4.2 degrees Rear 6mm toe in and 3.2 degrees Similar to mine, i think I have 4mm in the back. Also 350 lbs less.

Yea im gonna try a little.more toe in the back. I have seen a couple set ups for gt3 cars that r around this spec. Its an easy thing to dial back out. Here it how it looks. Not a good pic but the 1" taller nt01s really fill up the rear. Needs a good cleaning and new door stickers but she should.be good for the track. I did take it for a test drive last late last night. Either i really nailed the set up or i forgot how good this car really is......may be a little of both.

great job - looks great!

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The car looks... ...prepared. A lot of work and a worthy outcome. Congratulations! I hear that! I didn't drive my car much last year after the run-in with the signpost, and now that I'm back to regular time with it I realized I forgot so much about the its inherent goodness.

Great news and so good to see her back! Will you do the PCA Potomac event at NJMP in May?

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On the fence. Potomac wont let me run in black....maybe they would advance me now? I may sign up as an instructor but not sure if they need or would let me instruct for them? I also have Lime Rock for 2 days at the end of may. I may reach out to the co and see what they say.

So glad to see this back!

Got it in the track last night at njmp lightning for a 2hr open track. The car did will but i was slow. I was unwilling to push too hard so i was a good 1.5s of. The car had a bit of understear so im gonna dial out sime of the rear toe. Here is a paddock pic with a friends zo6.

Very nice! I�ll be at NJMP Lightning on April 25 as part of HPDE. Trying to get myself ready for N�rburgring this summer.

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Better get on the sim , i dont think lightning is gonna help much . I ahould be over at t-bolt with Mo-E on the 26th if the weather is good. Make a 2 day track weekend.

Hah, yea I�m on the sim too. Not looking to set a lap record or anything. Just gonna have some fun and follow the rules!

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I got robbed out my ring visit by covid in 2020 but ill get there one if these years. Have fun and let us know how it goes.

Wwlp back in my rack to dial out some rear toe. Glad i decided to do this as all 4 corners needed adjustment. Not sure how it got so out of wack..... maybe it really needed to get driven after the reset to loosen up? It has all solid heims everywhere so it shouldnt move but it did. It wasnt much, just a few tenths on the camber but that will mess up the toe. The ride height didnt move so that was good.

I have got a few track days so far this year and the car is now pretty good. I still want to get it on my rack and go through the corner balance and ride height one more time. I got all the pieces to change my shifter swapped out. I have been dealing with a Numeric shifter and cables because its what i was using on the c2 powertrain snd i didnt want to spend the money to change it. The issue is the gt3 trans has different internals and the shift is about 20% shorter then the c2 box. With the Numeric its extra short. The new set up will be a stock 996 shifter with the stock replacement Function First parts and a set of cup cables. Once i get it installeed and verified its what i like/want and if its good ill sell off the Numeric stuff.

Interesting. I have 996Cup shift levers (really short) and a Numeric which I have set for the longest throw. I think it's about perfect.

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To be honest i never tried the longest throw on the numeric.... my trans has a real tight 2nd gear and the last time i was at t-bolt u couldnt shift out of 2nd into any gear. Had to take it in 3rd all day. Everyone says its the mounts or the shift but i really think the issue internal to the trans. Gonna swap out the shifter set up to see if it gets me through the season as i need to still buy $5k of parts for the cup box. Also since i am going to the cup box and ill be using 2nd-6th gear (instead of just 3-4 in this trans) i wanted a longer throw to reduce the chance of a money shift.

Got the shifter in tonight but it got late so tomor will be the test drive. Notice the positive locking on the trans bracket and retained ball sockets. Along with the very rigid cable makes these sought after expecially since they r nla.

Test drive complete and u have to say im not impressed with the Function First stock shift upgrade. Maybe i was spoiled by the Numeric but it feels slopy. I also feel the throw is too long even with the shorter gt3 raiis in the trans. The good news is the 2nd gear engaugement is much better so im gonna try it on the track and see if it solves my shifting issue. I may go back to the Numeric and put it in the long setting as @theprf suggested while keeping the cup cables and see if i like that better.

Aaron - is that lever a stock Carrera one? Not sure what difference it would make, but I have a 997 SSK lever that could potentially help with shortening the throws. The lever has blue plastic instead of white and looks a bit shorter than yours. You're welcome to have it if you want to give that a go.

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Yea the 997 shifter is 16% shorter then a stock 996 according to FF. . I may take u up in that offer as it will give me another option to test. Ill leet u know after tomors track day.

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What are you doing to measure your camber? It would be to know how accurate it is. GL

I am using both a digital angle finder from lowes and an older version from smart strings. The lowes version just calibrates on a known flat surface. The other one uses 4 measurements on any surface. U can also spin the vamber gauge on the hub stand and average the measurement. I would say its 1-2 tenths accurate but sometimes the readings dont make sences and i triple check.

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yes a digital angle finder works well. Even if it�s off by a tenth you can still make sure the sides are equal.

I assume you set your camber first and then do toe. How much does your camber change after you adjust your toe?

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It can move a few tenths....i start with the toe, then camber, then toe, then....... U get the point. Basically u have to dial it in until the change is so small the other doesnt move. Also as u change camber u have to adjust the strings because it moves the center of the hub.

Did a track day over at njmp t-bolt on thursday. Weather was decent in the 80s and the track felt good but the rain blew in from 11-12. Second session i went too hot threw turn 2 and decided to bail into the grass and mow the lawn. Although there is plenty of run off it has a few dips and i went rally car. Front splitter took most of the damage and f'ed the bumper some. Shouldnt be hard to fix the fiberglass but ill wait to do that over the winter. It will just get some speed tape for now. I also ripped off a fender liner and lost the 2 rear brake ducts. This sucks cause those brake ducts r $. Pulled the splitter and i was back on track after lunch. The good news it shifted pretty good all day. I still dont like the longish throw so ill take up @plpete84 on his offer for a 997 shifter base before i go back to the numeric.

Oof! You're having a run of crappy luck. Glad it was just bodywork, the car's not yours.

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Kinda but im pushing the car harder and this stuff happens. This is one reason why i bought the aftermarket bumper. Its easier to fix and it was cheaper. Maybe i should have bought the really cheap Duraflex bumper .

Many years ago, my windsurfing instructor told us, after we had mastered the easy boards and sails and weren't falling in anymore, that if we weren't falling in, we weren't learning. Absolutely right. If you don't push it, you don't learn. There are many analogies to this but please be careful. Or, fall in, but not too hard.

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or a RubberMaid one....

Finally addressing the corner balance after my not so great first attempt. Now its acceptable and the ride height is back to gt3 spec. Just need to adjust camber and toe tonight. I did figure out that i dialed out too much rear toe the last time as it measured zero on both sides. The car had a lot of overstear and did not want to turn. Im gong back to 2mm on on both sides.

Final settings. Front toe out 1.5mm per side, camber 4.2* per side Rear toe in 2mm per side, camber 3.25* per side Weights and balance....this is with hub stands (3318lbs), with the wheels it raises about 100lbs. All measurements r with 200lbs in the drivers seat.

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Is that with a full tank? Those numbers put it 400# + more than my car. What was the weight last summer when we weighed it?

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Ok just looked it was about 375. I've taken out about 50# since then.

Its about 3/4 tank and its the same weight as it was last year. U r a racing weight, mine is still at street driving weight.

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Nah, the Duraflex would have broken too - and they fit terribly! More work than they're worth...

Another bust of a weekend ar watkins. This time it was my fault..... i sheared all 5 wheel studs and spun on turn 8. Luckily the wheel stayed under the well and supporred the car so the was very little damage. I was able to remove the remainder and install replacents but the car just didnt feel right. Its sitting low in that corner and i think the toe is out. Ill get it off the toe rug and kn the garage this week. Im 99% sure i had 1 or 2 fail on the 2nd session as i picked up a vibration but just thought it was clack in the wheels. I ment to jack up each corner but i had a studnt so i was real busy. Also the student made me a little green so i ate lunch and look a nap, skipping my 3rd session. Went out with the student and felt fine for my final session but completely forgot to check the car......that was.the kiss of death. Kind of a fustrating season.

Sorry to hear. Glad there is no big damage. For sure, there is never enough down time as an instructor to look at the little things.

that sucks - but glad ur ok and it wasn't worse

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Echo ^^^^ I have never heard of shearing off wheel studs. I have seen totally destroyed forged alloy P-rims (Laguna Seca), the car came out worse for wear after a sudden stop against a wall. Other maladies, but never wheel studs - especially ALL 5! Are wheel studs crap these days? Comment? YMMV

Tough season indeed! Glad it wasn't worse.

I was in the garage and saw Aaron's car being towed in on the front wheels. Could not understand how it was missing a wheel and no obvious damage. On an extremely positive note we received an email today from Aaron's student saying how great he was. Just one of the things he said. " Aaron also reached out to former instructors to confirm how I drive, and then worked with me to increase my lines and speed throughout the weekend."

Thx for the props . I really do like instructing as its very rewarding when a student gets an "ah ha" moment. I just have to figure out how to relieve my mild to moderate motion sickness. Most of the natural stuff doenst do anything and i wont take the actual meds because they make me less accute. My hope is that ill treat like a mild alergy and with enough exposure ill cure myself. Maybe ill try one of those electronic bracelet?

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I had mild motion sickness issues when I started flying. I did ginger chews when I started. Between ginger and cockpit time I developed enough tolerance to do a full two hours of hard turbulence at night with zero outside visual reference in a storm as an instrument rated pilot. if ginger doesn�t help you fast enough, there are exercises that will develop tolerance. Acrobatic flying requires doing them for most pilots. The downside is you feel sick afterwards until tolerance is achieved. Years later I still have the tolerance and did ocean fishing which was previously a stomach contents extraction event for weight loss.

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Maybe I missed the explanation..? don't understand how did you shear off those studs..? I've got some ti studs, you got me worried, were yours also titanium...? Sorry that happened to you, glad it wasn't worse as you know it could have been when losing a wheel at speed. For the queasiness, I've given out these elastic wrist band with a pressure point under the wrist. They amazingly seem to work on my Yacht in heavy seas. I don't need them myself, but many on board have used them successfully. Not sure how they can possibly work but they do. Not sure if they would work on track for you, but at $10 worth a try maybe.? Sea-Band Anti-Nausea Motion Sickness Bracelets https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001F731N0/?

I have tried the elastic braclets and the sticky dots, they dont work but the chews do help. The studs r not Ti. Not a fan of the melalergy of Ti in this application as its too brittle. How it happens... dont fully know but its always drivers rear and its happened twice at wg. Maybe its just the severe g forces at that track? I just didnt check my car properly mid-day and missed that some were probably missing then got lucky when the others failed. Theere is also a theory that the 96ft-lbs is too light for tracked cars and heat from the breaks can loosen the nuts causing play. I have recently increased to 110ft-lbs but the damage may have been done? Studs wIll sometimes break due to the stresses of track use and slick tires. As a wear item they need to be checked and replaced just like lug bolts if u track your car. Street driving will never bring u to the limits of a high quality stud or bolt.

You seemed ok when you went with me. Have you tried ordinary dramamine? I take one before track days, I get vertigo very easily.

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Its very driver dependant (u drive smooth). I can also hide it pretty good from the student. Its kinda my own personal hell . Dramamine makes me tired, all the motion sickness meds have the same active ingredient and the side affects all mess wuth my alertness. I did put the car on my alignment rack and intial measurements say there is nothing wrong. I have to dive into it a little more but maybe it was all in my head?

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I have been running 96-ft lbs forever. But I do have to torque them down before each session because they will loosen. I ran into a situation with the drivers side rear wheel in the early days of running studs where my LR wheel would loosen faster than the others which was a big suprise. Didn't know if it was the LSD in combo with hoosiers running clockwise tracks creating more stress and heat on the left rear or what it was. So I started torquing them down after they cooled before each session and haven't had any problems. Just like you, I do change out the studs from time to time as a just in case.

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Try Transderm Scop. Its a behind the ear patch. In my off shore saling days I refuse to eat out of can in a storm. With this I had no prob down below whipping up something in my wok

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Well, classic case. Looks like you drove the wheels off of it. Glad it wasn't too bad.

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The meds in the patch r know to cause drowsyness...i would have to try it before an event to see how it effects me.

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The only problem I had was accidently rubbing one my eyes after application and that caused supper dilation of the fisheye variety.

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Cool. Looks like i can get a amazon video doc to write the perscription.....it would be 9 months before my doc would see me.