7 captured repliesDiscussion pagination complete · Source accounts, not a confirmed diagnosis
THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHHardtop demister
Leading reported evidence
Run wire
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
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0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
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Read evidence and context
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
I ran a wire from the connector on the car to the hardtop whilst it was off and it didn't blow the fuse.
Leading evidence: 'Run wire' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Replace multimeter' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Suggestion
If you change your multimeter to show resistance, you should see resistance across the two leads.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
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7 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
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Hi all. Ok.
So this is my issue. The hardtop is off and I have put a fuse in the panel. I press the demister button and it lights up. I put the hardtop on and when I press the button PZZZT the fuse blows.
So I now have the hardtop of again. I have put a multimeter across the fitting on the car and have 16 volts when I press the demister button.
I then put the multimeter onto a circuit beep mode and measure across the two elements of the hardtops connector to the demister. It beeps indicating there is a circuit.
Now my question is.
Is that right? Should it be making a full circuit as I thought it was based on a positive negative basis.
If so, how do I possible investigate fixing it and has anyone had that problem before.
THANKS.
Ok update. I ran a wire from the connector on the car to the hardtop whilst it was off and it didn't blow the fuse. As soon as I put the roof on the car POP. THE FUSE GOES.
I Looked at the hardtop earlier and I have a circuit between both the connection points and the locating pin. Is this right? Why would it pop a fuse on the car but not off!?
Are you using the right fuse? S/B a 30A fuse.
The fuse is also for the door mirrors. However, I assume the fuse doesn't blow when you attempt to move or heat these?
If the fuse only blows with the hard top installed and the rear window defogger connected then there is to state the obvious an electrical short in the rear window defogger circuit.
Admittedly not much to go on but it's all I got.
The plastic connector on the car gets shorted under pressure from the top? Look for cracks, wear/burn marks on the connector. Is it worn off center somehow? Do the wires get pinched when you put the top on? Will it blow if the top is on but not tightened?
Hi. No it doesn't blow until I tighten it down. Then bang! So it must be the connector.
Oh and to top it off. Went to the pc today and you can't buy the plastic connector. It comes with the hard top mounting kit and at over �200 I thought I would try find another solution.
I'm going to get a quick release cable connector and resolder that on see if it works.
If you're asking if you should have continuity between the two leads for the defogging element, yes. The defroster is like a light bulb - the impedance of the wire in the middle causes heat, which causes the glass to defrost. If you change your multimeter to show resistance, you should see resistance across the two leads.
You could (at least temporarily) remove/cut the leads to the connector so at least you don't blow the fuse if you inadvertently hit the switch...
Ok. So I have now fixed the issue. I took the plastic defogger discs off the hard top and the car itself and purchased a waterproof car connector which i had to solder on. I then clipped the roof on connected the new connector and Wolah!
It appears the 2 defogger discs that connect together we're faulty when it came under pressure. It also appears you can't purchase the connector discs as these come part of the hard top receiver kit.
All in all its a �2 fix that looks oem as I could get it. The connector also sits under the covers perfectly so aren't seen.
Thank god that's sorted!
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