23 captured repliesDiscussion pagination complete · Source accounts, not a confirmed diagnosis
THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHPlease help with Clutch bleeding
Leading reported evidence
Install circlip back
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
Reported fixes
0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
Discussions
Read evidence and context
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Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
1
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
I suspect slave cylinder damage, as at some point, the piston came all the way out, I manually repacked it and fitted the circlip back.
Leading evidence: 'Install circlip back' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'good deal' (1 discussions; 0 report identifying it and 1 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Fill " hole' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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1
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
I use my compressor to put 25-30 pounds of pressure into the reserviour and then open a bleed screw.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
I've bled many clutches in my life and always used two person, pump pump hold, release method.
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Discussions that suspect a cause
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Suspected cause
"Time is money"...Judging by the time and aggravation you've already spent, that $150 Motive bleeder was probably a good deal !
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Discussions that contain suggestions
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Suggestion
Did your "pumper" know to pull the pedal back all of the way up to expose the master cyl "fill" hole?
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Suggestion
I recently bled mine using the manual method basically with pedal fully up, open bleed valve ,get assistant to depress pedal to floor then close bleed valve and repeat say five times.
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Suggestion · Original poster
Tried reverse pressure bleeding , using my weed sprayer but connected directly to bleeder valve, got some fluid going, but in the end, there was pretty much no flow.
Counts describe captured discussions, not unique people or a diagnosis. Author identities are not reliably stored. Exact duplicate evidence is counted once across matching discussions; one discussion counts at most once per action/state. Multiple repairs reported together remain a combination. Suggestions and failed attempts do not establish a fix. Matches cover whole discussions and can include related faults, model variants and incomplete threads.
23 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
0 evidence records excluded for query context · 2 excluded by outcome qualification · 0 adjusted by outcome qualification.
2 acknowledgements have no verified action link; they do not establish a repair result.
Outcome without a verified action link
So far, NOZs method worked for me, car is driveable but I suspect some tiny bit of air is still in the system.
So I've just put the engine back in the car, and was buttoning everything up hoping to drive it in a few days but seem to hit a real roadblock with clutch bleeding. I just can't seem to bleed it.
First thing fist, is it absolutely necessary to pressure bleed it? I've bled many clutches in my life and always used two person, pump pump hold, release method.
I do not have a pressure bleeder handy, so I built one myself, it sort of worked but not for long as the seal between reservoir and my pressure fed cap started to leak turning everything into a dissaster. Although , was able to push some pressure through it for 30 something seconds with no visible air coming from the bleeder screw. Which gave my some pedal pressure back. Then tried to finish it off with conventional two people method and only made pedal worse.
So now i'm guessing - damage to master cylinder? Order new one? Or get myself a better pressure bleeder, but I'd have to order online?
Any thoughts? I'm desperate
I thought the fill hole was when the pedal is all the way to the bottom, as porsche states to have pedal "depressed" when pressure bleeding. I held the pedal with a 2x4 wedged against the seat.
For the "pumper" (my wife), when manually bleeding , once we pull the pedal up, it jumps in it's place, so I'guess it's a no brainer?!
I suspect slave cylinder damage, as at some point, the piston came all the way out, I manually repacked it and fitted the circlip back.
All this because I was simply unable to reach the slave cylinder to the tranny with hydraulic line attached.
Several years ago I bought a simple pressure bleeder for my Porsche. It consists of a reserviour cap drilled to accept a standard male air hose fitting, which is screwed into the cap and sealed. It works like a charm. I use my compressor to put 25-30 pounds of pressure into the reserviour and then open a bleed screw. Brakes, clutch, it does not matter. It make bleeding either a one man job.
Sorry I don't remember where I bought it. I think it was a member on here that was making them.
You mean like this?
It worked for me but fluid was sipping past the cap to eventually burst and do a big mess. I'm gonna trying something else get a good seal.
I know, but I would have to purchase it online and wait about two weeks. I've already built mine, problem is I can't get it sealed agaist the reservoir properly.
I recently bled mine using the manual method basically with pedal fully up, open bleed valve ,get assistant to depress pedal to floor then close bleed valve and repeat say five times.
I did find at first the pedal was low and sticking down a bit on the return Spring but I did some pumping of the clutch pedal up and down with the valve closed ensuring I pulled the pedal all the way up if it stuck and after twenty or so pumps it started to come up, I then did another bleed session,then pumped again then bleed until I got a decent pedal, it worked for me, give it a try !!!
Ok, so I went out to the garage and got my cap to look at it. I actually bought it from a guy back in 2007. Here are some pictures. The guy I bought it from said at first he was using the OEM plastic caps but ended up having caps machined out of metal. The one I have is actually metal with a rubber seal in it. I can put 25lbs+ of pressure in the reserviour and it will hold for hours, no leaks. Unfortunately I don't think he makes them any more as he said this was one of the last ones.
Thanks guys, Noz, Dharn, fpb...
Tried reverse bleeding with an oil pump - garbage, pump was sucking some air and reintroducing it to system.
Tried reverse pressure bleeding , using my weed sprayer but connected directly to bleeder valve, got some fluid going, but in the end, there was pretty much no flow. Somehow, I got about 2 inches of pedal travel back.
Today I'll be rigging something from pumbing supplies to attach to the reservoir that does not leak, Dharn, I will sell my soul for that cap you have.
Motive will end up 150$ canuck bucks at my door, nayyy
Noz, I may try your pumping method, it seems different then what I used. You pump with bleeder open, which actually moves the fluid - might be the solution.
Youri, obviously you've got more time (and patience) than money, but remember... "Time is money"...Judging by the time and aggravation you've already spent, that $150 Motive bleeder was probably a good deal ! Just sayin'
That will never work, believe me I've tried. The statndard brake reservoir cap is vented and will not hold pressure. If you don't want to buy a real pressure brake bleeder, then try this. Buy an irrigation syringe, the huge one, at a pharmacy and use it to reverse bleed the slave. Attach a section of hose to the syringe, suck up brake fluid into it. attach the hose to the open bleeder and inject brake fluid.
This is actually the back up method for bleeding that always works when all else has failed because you are pushing air up, in the direction it wants to go.
Thanks San, I've actually thought about exacty the same thing, huge syringe, just did not know where to get one.
So far, NOZs method worked for me, car is driveable but I suspect some tiny bit of air is still in the system. So I might try that irrigation syringe method
Great glad it worked for you!! If you think it's still a bit spongey try just sitting in the car and pump the clutch pedal up and down about twenty times don't open any bleed valves or anything just pump , it may just give you that last bit of travel you need if it's only a little bit, I know people have said the last bit of the pedal can just come with driving also!!
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