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YOUR RESEARCH$30 Fuel Pump!
Reported or suspected cause
worthless
Reported cause
No successful repair reported for this finding.
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Reported cause
I have fallen victim to buying cheap Chinese parts that turned out to be worthless.
Leading evidence: 'worthless' (1 discussions report identifying this cause; no attributable repair resolution). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'worthless' (1 discussions; 1 report identifying it and 0 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Disconnect fuel line' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
Reason I replaced the OEM Valeo one was that some sort of check valve inside the old one was not doing it's job properly draining fuel back into tank once the pump was not turning causing loooonng hot restarts.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
Those on the old pump are Torx, the new used Phillips style.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
I know with one of my 993's the shop used a Porsche fuel pump that was over $400 and of course online I found comparable units for under $100.
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Suggestion
You can measure the flow rate by disconnecting the fuel line and running it into a buck for a specified time period.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
Reason I replaced the OEM Valeo one was that some sort of check valve inside the old one was not doing it's job properly draining fuel back into tank once the pump was not turning causing loooonng hot restarts.
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Outcome without a verified action link
I have also bought non-OEM/OE parts that were a fraction of the cost that worked just as good as the expensive stuff.
After a period of intermittent hard starting, a few CELs, etc., the fuel pump finally gave up.
$250 to $500+ for a fuel pump?!
Went to rt, and found that the Audi/VW fuel pump was pretty much the came, with the core exactly the same.
I did have to remove the adapter plate that the flexible plastic hoses attached to, but that was a minor issue that took around 5 minutes to remove the new plate and attach the hoses to the original connectors. Spark plug wire boot pliers made the removal easier on the new hoses: the old hoses had to be cut, since they had age hardened.Note the safety wire on the hose clamps: prevents loosening, etc. Belt and suspenders kind of thing.
You'll also have to transfer the power/ground wires from the old to the new pump.
Finally, the new pump installed, normal startup with one gallon of gas in the tank, and off to the gas station for a fillup!
Sorry about the upside down pics and poor formatting, but you get the point.
BTW, the fuel pump is this one:
PRIME CHOICE PREMIUM NEW FUEL PUMP MODULE ASSEMBLY
Ebay Item Id: 191451434249
Know anyone who might need an Audi/VW fuel level sensor and adapter plate?
I pulled the old pump apart before installing the new one, and as much as I could tell, the pump motor was exactly the same. The only external difference was the retaining screws. Those on the old pump are Torx, the new used Phillips style. Visually (and by weight, if that matters) even the housing has the same manufacturers marks on the external mount adapter (used to attach the pump itself the to mount in the fuel tank).
BTW, there wasn't a single Porsche part number to be seen on the old pump, so hopefully, the car won't go into part rejection....
Great info. Thanks.
The snobbery, elitism, and arrogance of manufacturers is very bothersome.
You will find that over 50% of owners will blindly and staunchly defend using OEM and factory-only replacements, and they will have abundant stories to support the claims.
However, most DIYers eventually arrive at the conclusion that "OEM-only" is vastly overrated.
(The same applies to using dealers-only, versus using a Porsche indie.)
^This^ Let's face it, the underlying parts are essentially the same. Obviously, fitment becomes an issue, even between model years of the same vehicle - so there are cases where OE or OEM is helpful or even mandatory. In cases where it isn't, I say go with the least expensive option.
Nice find! They should sticky this. I know with one of my 993's the shop used a Porsche fuel pump that was over $400 and of course online I found comparable units for under $100. It is really sad that the mark up is so high.
X2
I would at least want to know that some manufacturing numbers match up.
If it is, great discovery. Kinda like the $12 Napa ignition switch. I also get a kick out of the Porsche specific o2 sensors. Lol.
KBoll
Thanks for sharing this Interchange info. When a little intelligent modification is required , there is often someone who will dismiss the idea as a "hack". Your mod seems to work fine ? Full throttle=full power ?
I agree this should be a Stickey. Anything that helps reduce the cost of rapairing and maintaining the M96 engine is most welcome to me. Thank you.
Many - yup - but there are some here who are going to freak out at your comment.
Trust me - I made the same comment some time ago and watched the world burn...
I prefer OE parts since most are critical. Some exceptions I can think of are:
- Bosch sensors - O2, MAF, cam, crank
- Bosch alternator, starter, SAI pump
- Bosch spark plugs
- Ignition coils (Beru)
- intake air filter. Microfilter
- cats
- brake pads
- flywheel and clutch when the time comes
Btw, I checked the ebay listing of the pump amd found its model number - FPKM292
It fits multiple vw and the largest displacement is 2.8L. Not a lot of reviews on the internet. Only saw a few negative on amazon. I hope it works out fine for you.
AGreed.
But it is important to distinguish between:
Porsche branded but actual manufacturer concealed - no different from buying a "Porsche" pen or watch?
Porsche approved OEM
Others.
An interesting example of 'others' is - instead of Bosch O2 sensors -use a well respected alternative like NTK or Denso ?
And then there are the generic/Made in China EBay items !
But best of all is a drop-in Interchange item marketed for less image-conscious makes like VW - the infamous Ignition switch is a good example.
A 'hack' fuel pump replacement that has insufficient flow may not be a good example?
The Pelican Catalog gives many examples with huge variations in price for the same(?) part.
Good points all, but I think the bottom line is whether it works in this specific case. I have fallen victim to buying cheap Chinese parts that turned out to be worthless. I have also bought non-OEM/OE parts that were a fraction of the cost that worked just as good as the expensive stuff. Sometimes the cheap option works and sometimes it doesn't, and the pricey parts are worth the extra money.
So, let us know how well your project works. Certainly is great info if it does work well, but no shame in trying and failing if it turns out not to work so well. That's what these forums are for - share the knowledge.
Well, this one's a little more than $30, but it's also billed as a direct replacement
http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo....357185&jsn=343
Sure beats $458 at Pellican...
I went out today for a fairly spirited drive on the interstate, with high rpms and heavy throttle (all well within limits: no reason to abuse the machine just to try to prove something) for a period of time just to see if I could create a fuel starvation at high flow issue. Happy to report all is well so far. Fuel flow was a concern of mine, but is not an issue-yet. Much shorter crank times to get it started too.
Ahsai in #13 has the PN.
The limiting factor may be the specification of the injectors not the flow rate of the 'hack' fuel pump ??
If the flow rate is good enough for a 996 ,it should be O.K. for the 986 also.
Good find and even better test results.Thanks for sharing.
After only a superficial look at your pics My only concern is the use of gear type hose clamps. I know you can buy the proper crimp on style clamps from an Evinrude dealer . They can be crimped with end cutting pliers.
I'm not necessarily sure thats the best way to do this.
Lots of cars run the best right before they lunch a piston due to a lean a/f condition.
You can measure the flow rate by disconnecting the fuel line and running it into a buck for a specified time period. Use whatever calculations to get to your lbs/hr or Lph, and compare to stock.
This could be a good idea.
However one could argue that for a primarily street daily driven vehicle, the injectors aren't going to be anywhere near their max duty cycle most of the time so it's rarely going to utilize the full flow. Otoh, if the fuel delivery rates vary enough where you do end up racing or getting on the throttle to redline, you may not be producing full power.
Now all this could be negligible in a real situation but this is RL so there's gonna always be the obsessive over analysis cautious doom and gloom thought process here.
good suggestion, and I'll do that. As for the concern re the worm gear clamps, I safety wired them in place such that they can't back off, or if they do fail somehow, they'll remain in place, rather than rattling around in the fuel tank, like the gas can filler shutoff valve that I found in there.
It is exactly the one I put in last week. Fired right up and the fit was OEMish enough to me at fraction of cost.
Reason I replaced the OEM Valeo one was that some sort of check valve inside the old one was not doing it's job properly draining fuel back into tank once the pump was not turning causing loooonng hot restarts.
Oh, and this will should help you with your flow rate test (per Porsche manual); 850cm3 per 30 seconds
Good to know. Love this site because it's such a wealth of shared knowledge. I learn something new everyday it seems. The Porsche tax is very apparently a thing, based on this.
This is a source reference. Confirm exact model applicability in the original material.