Complete Bose Stereo Overhaul Underway

I recently started a major project to completely overhaul my '03 Bose sound system. New HU, Amp, Speakers and Sub. It's something that I'm working on mostly during the weekends and will take a few more weeks to complete. I'll post progress pic's as I go along... Passenger Seat Out: Head Unit, A/C Controls and Horseshoe Out: Replacement JL Front Speakers Mounted (I had to grind out the OEM Bracket to fit): Replacement JL Rear Speaker TR525 CXi (will be a tight fit but looks like I can just make it): Bose Sub Box Out - Replacement Alpine Type R Sub. I will build a "fake" Bose Sub Box and mount the Alpine to it: Head Unit (JVC Single Din 5.4" Touch Screen) (Discontinued but luckily I found one on Craigslist): JL 500/5 Amp (Not the latest JL model but I always liked the look) T-Spec v12 4 AWG AMP Ground and Power: JL Crossovers Mounted (needs clean-up): Amp Rack (needs major clean-up):

If anyone is interested in acquiring the stock Bose components please PM me.

Wow looks like a very complete job. Question about your instrument cluster. Did you do those gauge red faces yourself ? I'm looking for a shop to do just the center tach red.

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Yes, I did the gauges myself a few years ago. About a 6/10 on the difficulty scale as I recall. I think there's a DIY on here or renntech. One thing I recall doing was taking pictures of the needle placements prior to pulling the needles off....was helpful to insure they went back in the same places.

I've thought about that too. I've considered a yellow tach because I feel like it might be easier to read than a red one.

Love this stuff... Keep us posted on the progress and include lots of pics. JL speakers are something else!

RCA cables into the cabin.... Knukonceptzs Krystal Kable - Triple Shielded RCA Cables. Hopefully this will shield any noise/interference from the Amp power cable which will be close by. Firewall grommet behind the battery...you can see a little of the blue HU to Amp remote turn on wire. I also have my laser jammer cable run into the cabin from here. (3) sets of RCA's thru (taped to the white Pro.Fit Wire Worm from Crutchfield which is indispensable for this job) I had to completely remove the upper center console to get this done:

Installed JL TR525 CXi Rear speakers I loosen the rear interior side panel to provide room for the rear speaker and wiring installation (removed the B Pillar clip and the one B Pillar screw that secures the panel). Pushed back foam insulation and cleaned area with denatured alcohol. Then applied 3M 4959 Very High Bond Double Sided tape around the opening (once cured, this stuff has amazing bonding ability): 1/2" MDF cut for the mounting ring with (4) screw wholes drilled Mounting ring connected to Double Sided Tape (I used small C clamps for 24 hours to provide pressure): I could not figure out wiring to the rears (or Subwoofer) using the Autoleads wiring adapter so I installed my own wiring to the Rears and Sub (KnuKonceptz Karma Kable 16 Gauge for the rears and 12 gauge for the Sub) Speaker wired and installed to mounting ring: OEM Speaker Grill re-installed and rear panel reattached (I had to cut down the length of the two mounting screws due the the increased width of the new speaker install:

I'm installing the JL C5-653 3-way system (Mid Range and Tweeter in the dash and Mid Base in the door). In order to connect the JL Mid Range I need to pull a wiring run to each dash location. I'll use the the existing dash wiring to connect the JL tweeter. That existing wire is connected to the Bose wiring harness. I'll use the Autoleads wiring harness adapter to gain access to the tweeter wiring therefore I will not have to splice the Bose harness wiring. KnuKonceptz Karma Cable 16 Gauge cable pulled to the dash location using the Wire Worm JL Mid Range and Tweeter installed in the OEM speaker Housing. I used 3m double sided foam tape, poly fil and the OEM speaker housing to hold the Mid Range in place.You see the OEM wire connector now attached to the JL Tweeter. Mid Range and Tweeter wires connected Speakers installed (looks OEM) Bose Wiring Harness Bose Wiring Harness with Autoleads connected. I used the following wires on the Autoleads to connect the tweeters: White - Front Left + White/Black - Front Left - Grey - Front Right + Grey/Black Front Right - Crossover Connections Connections to AMP

Looks very well thought out. If I may make one suggestion: before cutting and trimming the auto leads cable, consider locating the chunky Bose connector with the Autoleads counterpart in the corner on the right hand side ("right side" based on your last pic of your frunk) between the break cylinder and the frunk wall. That is what I did and it removes the unsightly connector from view.

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Thanks for the tip. I'll keep that in mind as I organize wiring in the frunk.

Yowsa...that frunk looks like the main umbilical on the space shuttle. Nice work.

Be sure to reconnect the passenger seat before you power up for testing...otherwise you'll get an airbag failure code.

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Unfortunately I already had the Airbag code which stemmed from the initial seat installation...need to get that reset when all said and done. I've been doing testing as each component goes in....so far, so good...

wow, very nice Fly...should sound AWESOME.

I installed the Alpine subwoofer but did not like the way it looked (too bulky) so I went back to my initial plan which was (2) JL 6W3v3-4 6.5" subwoofers. Now I needed to build a box which created a lot of extra effort. I built a 31"x 6 1/2" x 5 1/2" (LxWxH) box out of 1/2" MDF which fits with the rear seatbacks in the upright position and provides enough volume to support the subs. Building Box I sourced a 996 upper rear deck carpet from LA Dismantlers and cut it to size Double sided tape to secure the carpet Subs wired in parallel (+ to +, - to -) Trim pieces added (I used 3/8" aluminum angle trim...could have went a little larger to better cover up the edges) Bling added Custom (Home Depot) mounting brackets attached to the Bose mounting points In the car, wired up and sounding very good!

What a huge amount of work! I hope it sounds sweet when you are done. 2003 Carrera 4S Speed Yellow / 1955 356 Continental 1500 Rust Red

Fly as usual very cool I recently upgraded my system as well and by the way don't forget fixup that battery tray!. little surprised LOL! ,okay good luck.

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Yes, it�s a tremendous amount of work (more than anticipated) but I cannot believe the quality of sound difference versus stock components � What did you do with your system and good point on the battery tray�.

JL 6.5" Door Woofer installation. I used the Door Panel removal procedure detail by Rob in WA in order to remove the panel (see here for Rob's panel removal instructions) https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...-two-pics.html Door Panel off: Bose Woofer enclosure close-up and removed: After removing (6) screws that hold the black retaining bracket, there are (4) screws that hold the enclosure in. (2) in the front, (1) in the middle and (1) toward the end. You have to cut the foam insulation in order to get to the screws and remove the enclosure. OEM Speaker Removed from Housing: Retaining bracket used to trace a pattern needed for the 6.5" mounting ring which was made from 1/2" MDF. (4) screw holes drilled in the ring matching the pattern on the retaining bracket and a hole for the speaker wire: Housing Cut down....just needed the frame of the Housing in order to mount the ring: Stinger Roadkill Expert Sound Dampening installed on the internal door panel: Housing Frame and Ring installed: Roadkill installed on interior door panel: Speaker installed and wired using the following wires off the Autoleads connector: Left Door Green + Green/Black - Right Door Purple + Purple/Black - Door Panel re-installed: New LED Bulbs installed which do make a big difference:

Installed JVC KD-AVX77 El Kameleon DVD/CD/USB Receiver. This has a 5.4" Touch Screen which is nice because there are no buttons to clutter the interior. It has a cool proximity feature which illuminates the screen when your hand approaches it. The other things I like about it are the 5.0 volt pre-outs which give a nice clean signal and USB connectivity. It has Bluetooth but I'm not setting that up. USB and Remote Bass Control installed in the rear center console:

Nice work. I may have to go back in and upgrade to the 6 inch door speakers using your mounting method.

Now would be a good time to upgrade the battery and add reserve capacity. New Battery - Bosch Platinum Series AGM Battery Group Size 49 (good deal from Pep Boys online) Separate wiring into 3 sets (Subwoofer, Rear and Front) 3/4" Split Loom to cover wiring Battery in place Angle battery backward and push wiring down into lower part of the firewall Other side of the firewall where the wiring comes into the frunk...audio wiring to the right...power to the left Positive battery terminal connection and Front Strut Brace re-installed

Organizing wiring in the frunk Small Carbon Fiber Rods used to hold spare tire bolt in place. High strength epoxy used to reinforce spare tire mounting point Installed AMP and Crossover Racks to a Triple LCD Monitor Desk Mount Stand. Stand was trimmed to fit and mounted to the spare tire mounting point. Crossovers and Amp (need to replace a few if the plastic carpet plugs that broke/missing) Test drive completed...no alternator whine detected. Real pleased with JVC/JL system! More Pic's...finally out of the garage... Will need to fixup trim on the Sub box someday...

Very nice looking setup. It looks like it was a tremendous amount of work. Roughly how long did it take to complete? When the car is parked in a parking lot, do you cover the subs - I realize that may be a silly question since the car itself is worth so much, but i'm still curious. Congratulations!

i got a lot of respect for someone who digs into their car like that - nice job!

I remember when I used to be that into car audio! Put a full JL Audio setup in my old Mercedes myself, won't be doing it in the 996 but you've done an awesome job. Tipping my hat to you for using JL Audio.

Where did you ground the amp?