Another Key Thread

I've searched and found a ton of threads about keys, but figure I'll start another thread and see if anyone has anything new to add. Here is my situation: I got 2 keys with my car, the remote on one of them never worked. I didn't really care since I had 1 that did work used as the primary key, and the other was just a spare. Now the remote on my primary key stopped working. So, I have 2 keys, neither remote works. On one of them the red light turns on when you press a button, the other one does not. Dealer is telling me it is much more difficult (expensive) to program a key if I don't have any key that currently works. Car is at the dealer now, but for some reason they can't look at it until tomorrow to determine my options. Unfortunately, I didn't read about the reversing polarity trick until today. I assume this is something the dealer would try? My primary key had been acting a little goofy, so I'm thinking that one is shot. My spare though still lights up, and maybe the trick would work for that one? Probably unrelated, but I have noticed 2 other quirks recently. 1. When driving, the car sometimes likes to lock/unlock itself randomly. I'll notice the red lock light on the dash switch turn itself on/off randomly. 2. My passenger window sometimes does not like to be in the right position to open/close the door. I'm assuming this is the microswitch, but since i don't have passengers often, I haven't fixed this yet. Any thoughts? Thanks.

1) If the doors are locking/unlocking while driving, that sounds to me a like a short - hopefully at the switch, rather than deep in the harness. You can pop the side of the horseshoe off fairly easily to inspect the lock/unlock switch and plug. 2) Could be a switch or it could be the window regulator - if you can hear the motor trying to drop the window when you lift the handle but nothing happens, it's likely the regulator; if it doesn't even try, it's likely a switch.

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While I want to say, well, BS to the claim by the dealer it is much more difficult (and "expensive") to " program a key if I don't have any key that currently works" I have no real facts to go on other than I have had a few "dead" keys (keys in which the remote door lock/unlock or lid unlock buttons *did not* work) replaced and my dealer service department didn't indicate this presented any real difficulty. All that is required is I give the tech all 3 keys: the two smart keys and the one valet key; and presto chango in a while the bad key has been removed from the car's security system -- to free up room for the new key -- and the new key introduced to the car's security system and all is well again. The doors locking on their own along with the passenger window's strange behavior is -- based on my experience with my Boxster -- likely due to a malfunctioning passenger door lock controller. This is a rather large alum/plastic housing that contains electro/mechanical hardware and along with "electro" some "intelligence". It is this intelligence that is probably at fault. My local dealer tech queried the car's security system for errors and then removed the door card and tested the other switches in the hopes the problem would be with a switch but the problem unfortunately was with the door lock controller which is rather expensive compared to the door switches. Just a caution: Anytime the car starts manifesting electrical gremlins you should check that the body water drains are not blocked and no water or signs of water (dampness) is present in the cabin. The security module is under the passenger seat and is especially at risk of damage if any water gets in the cabin. Also, check that both door bottoms are dry. There is a membrane in each door that is glued to the inner door sheet metal. If this membrane detaches or is torn/ripped by someone inside the door not knowing what he's doing water can collect in the door and possibly to the point it can leak into the cabin.

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Oh, I forgot to mention sometimes a "dead" key can be resurrected by carefully prying the head apart and removing the battery and inserting it backwards. This I guess bleeds residual electrical power from the circuit in the head and effects a total reset. Another problem I have noted over the years is occasionally a key will end up with its LED stuck on. Not sure what causes this but it occurs much less frequently, as in hardly ever now, after I stopped keeping my Porsche key (and any keys and stuff) in my pants pockets. Nowadays at home I empty my pockets into a handy bowl near the front door and at work I have a bowl on my desk I empty my pockets into so I don't walk around at either the home or office with my pockets full of Porsche and house keys and a money clip and a small bundle of credit cards, and one or two USB stick drives. If this stuck on LED condition isn't noticed in time this can run down the key battery. So all a dead key could require is a new battery though to be safe (?) perhaps installing the old battery (or new battery) in upside down for a moment just in case the electrical circuit and electronics are in some goofy state would be advisable?

I just picked up 996 it only came with one key. I called both porsche dealers in the Pittsburgh area looking for a second key. One came in at $335 and the other one was $400. My question to both dealers was, does it cost more to have a key made if I lose the only key I had. Both replied that the only additional cost would be the tow. So I would say that from my research, there is no additional cost if you do not have a working key. Unless of course the problem isn't with the key. Add for myself I think I am going to look into a GPS chip so I can find my keys if I lose them.

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Interesting, so you are saying it should not make any difference if I have zero working keys. Good thinking checking for moisture. I have a cab, and haven't checked my drains for a few years.

Just being ****, be careful how you use the term "non-working key." By example, does the key still manually lock/unlock the doors, and start the car in the ignition? In that case, I'd say a "non-working remote." I had a similar experience to both of your issues. Firstly, I only had ONE manual key (key blade and "flashlight" head) when I purchased my car. As in no remote functionality at all. I just went to the dealer and they ordered a new key blade and remote head. Once the parts came in, I took the car to the dealer and they programmed the car to recognize the new key/remote combo. It was somewhere around $350-ish total for parts and labor. Secondly, are you *sure* your car is locking/unlocking while driving? As in, do you *hear* the locks operating? My car does the same thing, but it's only the red light on the dash that comes on/off occasionally. No lock activation. If the light comes on and I press the unlock side of the panel switch, the locks click and I get the double-beep indicating a problem. My Durametric returned fault codes 47, 60, & 61, all of which dealt with microswitch issues. I'm in DFW. The lock lite issue didn't occur until we got close to 100 deg temps a few weeks ago. This past week, temps dropped back into the 80's and the issue disappeared. On a side note, the Durametric explanation also said that the codes were just informational and "...it is not an indication that repair is needed." Good luck with the dealer!

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Yes, you are correct, it is the remote that does not work. The key still works in the door & ignition. You are also correct, that it is just the light that comes on the dash switch, w/o actually locking/unlocking the doors.

Have you actually tried replacing the battery in each remote? I got two remotes with my car - 1 was "dead"...changed the battery - all good! Start with the simple stuff. The "Stealerships" love for you to think that there's some black art involved with fixing these cars - that's how they make $... Good luck

I agree with Macster, I think the service rep misspoke. From my experience, if you have two dead keyfobs and the car was left unarmed, then you're okay. However, if you have two dead keyfobs and the car was parked and armed for a period of time... the 996 will go into shut down mode (i.e. immobilized), then you have serious problems... It means you'll have to purchase new keyfobs and an immobilizer module. But your case is totally different. You were able to drive the car to the dealership using the old school method of unlocking the car with the laser cut key. They should be able to easily order you two new fobs pre-programmed for your car... and even transfer the laser cut portion to save you money.

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Yep, I had the same issue. Thought it was a dead keyfob, when and purchased a simple CR2032 battery and BINGO... it worked again. Yay! Some keyfob get corrosion on the internal contacts... OP, if this is the case, 5CHN3LL can explain how to clean. I can't remember. ha!

To finish this off, I did get a new key from a different dealer for about $280. The first dealer wanted $900!!! then lowered the price twice when I said no thanks. To fix the window, I ordered a microswitch, and lock assembly from Sonnen. Weird that the passenger side is more expensive than driver?

That's a good price. I would like a additional remote key. I just have the one remote key and valet key.

Rather than start a new thread, thought i would add to this one. I have gone through the key issues, one being stolen from the house during burglary(fortunately didn't find the car). Then Girl friend decided the take the car and go running in the middle of no where and lost new key. ordered another replacement and that has now seem to of lost sync with the car. I have change the key batt, and reversed polarity, it lights up, but no unlocking of the car. Will i need to replace the key that has lost sync? reading this it seems i will. secondly i still have the access codes from Porsche to add the last key(DME etc). is this of any use for either re-syncing or for the new key i will order.

Best advice - take the non-functioning key, access codes, and lots of money to your local Porsche service center and request they make it all work. Hopefully, you'll get out of there under a $1000. I presume you still can access the car via the ol'school key in the door method, right?

yes, can still access and drive car old school methods. good fun these keys.

I'm going to piggyback off this thread. I have a new key, it starts the car, locks/unlocks etc. The problem is it keeps moving the seat to a position I don't like. I can't make it forget the position. The manual says to hold the button with the key logo, and number to clear setting. Then hold M and key logo to set. It's not working. I tried disconnecting the 12V, and removing 3V from key. It still is finding a position with this key that I don't like. Any thoughts? Anyone ever have a key where everything works except the seat memory?

Did you have the ignition on? Clearing the stored seat position 1. Switch the ignition on with the desired vehicle key. 2. Simultaneously press and hold the "key" button and person button 2 for at least 5 seconds.

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Yep, I tried multiple times. Some with the key in the accessory position, some with the engine running. I can get the passenger side mirror to tilt when put in reverse, but can't get the seat to forget it's position.

In essence, aren't you trying to get the seat to "remember" a new position? Have you gone through the steps to program in new seat settings, perhaps even programming all three buttons with new settings?

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Lots of threads on "seat memory" but not many verifiable solutions...and when you search you can see this is a prevalent problem. Here's one thread with some more info - see posts #10, #11 and #20. Post up your solution once you get it resolved. Good luck. https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...at-memory.html

what's the approx. price for a valet key? It's probably something I should get.

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Keep in mind that a valet key still needs a programmed pill in order to start the car. One cannot simply get a laser cut key. It won't work.

^+1 Joe is right, our cars have to pop pills in order to giddy up! ha!

Macster and DK570 (and original idea poster): Thanks so much for the suggestion to insert the battery with reversed polarity. You just saved me hundreds of dollars! It saved what I thought was a broken transmitter. Now I have 2 good keys. Blessings upon you all! Jeff in AZ

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Good to hear that Jeff. I've read many horror stories from people with dead key fobs and the Porsche 996. No working keys = lots of $$$ to fix

Follow up. After I replaced the passenger door microswitches, the window worked again. Also, the red light on the dash lock switch stopped turning on randomly. Apparently those 2 problems were related. Also, I had the dealer look at the seat memory again today. I think it's fixed. I'll be convinced if the seat stays in the same place when lock/unlock again tomorrow. They said the gage cluster had to be reprogrammed also to match the key. Doesn't make 100% sense to me, I don't think it made 100% sense to them, but it seems to have worked. Why would everything work but the seat memory? How is that related to the gage cluster?