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YOUR RESEARCHThoughts on this C4S
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Check can be made
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Read evidence and context
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Suggestion
Follow this with a PPI which among other things gets the car in the air so a careful check can be made for any leak sign.
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Suggestion
If so, and assuming a clean PPI, that is a good deal for that mileage.
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Suggestion
It looks like a great car and all the advice given should be considered cumulatively and become part of your punch list when you inspect the car.
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Suggestion
post up the VIN, a lot of RL'rs have Carmax accts and will run the history
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Took a look at this 04 C4S MT
today. Very clean, 41k miles. Did need rear rotors as I could feel the lip with my finger. Fronts we're ok. No signs of leaks under the car. Asking $28,995. Is that about right? Oh, and had a short shifter installed. Throws were only a couple inches long. Big difference.
New mounts after only 41k miles? Is that normal? Black parts are rock guards. Didn't ask about history. It was on a dealer lot so doubt they would know much.
post up the VIN, a lot of RL'rs have Carmax accts and will run the history
you might even find the PO
rotors, there's a lip. i.e.; a ridge on the very edge of my rotors @ 34,000
motor mounts, it
may
need them, it
will
eventually, they are 12+ years old
you're in Cal, shouldn't be to hard to get a good PPI
41k is not a lot of mileage on these cars, for a lot of owners they are
2nd cars and don't get driven enough
Yeah, there's a well respected Porsche Indy shop just down the road. I went over there the other day and have a great 30min conversation with the shop owner who's been in business 40 years. Got some good info and will take the car I eventually want to buy to him for a PPI. VIN:
WP0AA29994S621892
. it's a Chevy dealer so I figured the PO traded it in for a Vette maybe.
Priced about right, or even a little on the low side IMO. A PPI is highly recommended.
I changed my engine mounts about 3 years ago at 25K miles - so it's the age more than the miles.
Yea time for mount change! Sagging/uneven level tips is the give away. Not a big job nor costly. The engine hangs from the mount; does not sit on it. My 2005 C4S is hanging higher and I'm going to change mine this winter.
Does it have PSE? IMSB, RMS done? If so, and assuming a clean PPI, that is a good deal for that mileage. Post up the option sticker under the hood if available. And those wheels are not OEM, at least not for the C4S. Look like sport design wheels but hard to tell for sure from the pics.
you can look on one of these sites for origional vin history
http://carinfo.kiev.ua/cars/vin/merc...ck?su=_o_kh9kd
get car inspected, look at a car fax, find the selling or servicing history and call that dealer and get them to look up any porsche warrantee history. If the car has any bad problems it could cost you thousands, so dont buy it on luck
I'm in the middle of buying an 02 C4S in the same colour. It's $3k more but with 10k less miles.
The one you're looking at appears to be in the right ballpark.
pfuu that is a pretty damn good price at a dealership, I thought the C4S had a higher premium than the C2, I remember when I bought my car the C4S was going for a good 20% above the C2. So much car for the money !
GT3 rims and rotors worn at 41k miles, the car must have been tracked. nothing wrong with that but that's my feeling.
They all look good on the lot. That's the dealer's job. Make the cars look good.
You have to give the car a thorough check out. Test ride, then test drive. You have to experience the car in its natural state: On the road being driven, or driving it, as you intend to drive the car should you buy it.
Then afterwards a check out of all the car's subsystems. Follow this with a PPI which among other things gets the car in the air so a careful check can be made for any leak sign.
For price help I recommend you use NADA or KBB prices, whole sale/trade in prices as this is almost certainly all the seller has in the car. This then sets the low limit for the price. How much over this you end up paying depends upon various things.
It looks like a great car and all the advice given should be considered cumulatively and become part of your punch list when you inspect the car.
All cars are mechanical probabilities, and finding a great one is partly the outcome of these probabilities, car history and gut instinct.
Have fun, hope you find a great one!
The VIN decoder lists the car as RWD. Is that a red flag or can the decoder be off sometimes? Just re-read the dealer's ad and it also lists it as RWD.
probably just a default or some system, somewhere not properly accounting for the wide body, AWD setup of the C4S. Looking at the car it's hard to fathom how or why one would make a NB/C2 look that close to a true C4S.
Check this thread: "RWD or AWD" in this forum. Pay particular attention to the pics of the frunk and the comments following. As I understand it the AWD cars have a saddle fuel tank because of the front wheel drive box, therefore, the smaller frunk with the with the dome cover in front of the battery area. Might be easier than looking under the front of the car for axels!
I would NOT trade my C4S for a C2 just based on looks! IMHO the wide body looks more aggressive and sporty. That's just me I'm sure there are conflicting opinions. They are a heavier car so if looking for a couple of tenths faster to sixty the C2 would be better. I'm happy with what I got!
A couple of tenths quicker up the pacific coast hwy doesn't matter to me. Is there a noticeable difference in handling am deathly how the car feels? I guess I just need to drive both to find out.
Since 2009 owning a 2003 996 Turbo equipped with the same AWD system I'd have to offer the biggest negative of the C4S compared to the C2 is the AWD system.
The fuel tank is split into 2 basins -- to clear the front diff -- and siphon jets are used to pull the fuel out of the basins. ( This works the fuel pump pretty hard and this heats the fuel. The Turbo has a fuel system cooler that when the A/C is on helps cool the fuel.)
Anyhow, one of these siphon jets (a hose) can fail and the car runs out of gas around the 1/2 tank point. The in tank fuel level system only works down to about half a tank. After that the OBC takes over and calculates the remaining fuel level. While this seems to work ok it is just more complexity.
Because of the way the AWD system works: Viscous fluid coupling that relies upon the rear wheels/tires making just a few more revs per mile than the front wheels/tires it is critical one pick the right sized tires to ensure this AWD system, mainly the viscous coupling, is not subjected to too large a rear vs. front speed difference and that the speed difference has the rear wheels/tires making a few more revs/mile than the fronts.
The C4S (and Turbo) AWD system is just an expensive system that does really nothing in the real world for better traction in the bad stuff.
As usual, Macster gives perfect advice.See POST #14
Until you have a PPI from a competent M96 expert - it is all just speculation. The difference between a Good report and a Fail could be $2-20k in repairs.
Swung by the dealer and took the car for a test drive today. Pretty docile below 4K but really wakes up above that. I found myself rolling down the driver side window so I could hear the exhaust as it was just too quiet otherwise. Got me wondering if I'd enjoy a cab more. I drove a boxster a long time ago and the noise and the wind gives you more of a sense of speed. Never thought I'd consider a cab again (had a modified mustang vert years ago) but now not so sure....
I've owned a cab and a coupe and definitely prefer the coupe. Mainly because I can open/close the sunroof and windows at any speed I want. I don't use the sunroof in any other vehicle but with my 996 it has to be below 50 before I don't use it.
Speaking of which, it keeps freaking me out to have the engine idle so high because I've never had the heat/air on this whole time. But now that winter is setting in I better get used to it.
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