16 captured repliesDiscussion pagination complete · Source accounts, not a confirmed diagnosis
THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHfound a good INDI
Leading reported evidence
Replace $248
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
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0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
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Leading evidence: 'Replace $248' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Recommend replacement 75,000 mi' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
He replaced 2 knock sensors a couple of month back and that convinced me to go the whole hog on the big job.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
Replaced coolant pipe which was crushed when the car bottomed out on a previous owner.
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Suggestion
The reason you'd replace your dual-row with another dual-row is the same reason you replaced your perfectly functional AOS during your last service - as preventive maintenance.
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I had a noisy whining gearbox fixed recently. I had work done by an INDI I recently found. While in there more work was done. New clutch kit $725. Oil air separator $134. Gearbox completely stripped and rebuilt with new bearings where needed. MT pinion bearing replaced $248. Differential pinion bearing replaced ($449). A broken alternator bracket replaced ($459). Replaced coolant pipe which was crushed when the car bottomed out on a previous owner. S T needle bearing $309. Cured oil pan slight leak. On his advice, coolant changed to pink not green. Now the cabin is really quiet in comparison. All told, A tad under $5000. Money well spent in my opinion. What dyawl think?
Hurdi,
I, too, recently had "the big one" done on my '99 cab /hardtop/83K miles at a cost of about $4600; i.e., IMSB, AOS, clutch & DMF, RMS, and ALL fluids changed (except coolant), timing-to-IMS chain tensioner, and main input shaft seal. All replacements were "planned", except the tensioner and input shaft seal which were noted as needing replacement when "we got in there".
I had the work done at Wright Motor Sports in Batavia, OH, a highly respected race shop that specializes in GT3 race prep and support.
I debated this project for a couple of years, and then firmly decided to pull the trigger as I intend to keep this ride pretty much forever. Now, I must admit, the car drives and feels like a new 911...the improvement is amazing.
I think you and I are on the same page.
Best Holiday Wishes,
relinuca
Porsches Forever
We most certainly ARE on the same page Relinuca. Same mileage, model and year. I didn't have the IMS done as I have the early 99 double race bearing. I think (but can't guarantee) it would have gone before 83000 if it was going to go at all. Now I know I got a great deal owing to the fact that I saw the gearbox in bits on his bench when he was adding worn bearings etc. Like yours, mine is like a new car after the work. I thought it was lively before the work but OMG. Redline is a breeze now. He replaced 2 knock sensors a couple of month back and that convinced me to go the whole hog on the big job.
"I thought it was lively before the work but OMG. Redline is a breeze now."
"Lively" as in quicker/faster/more powerful? I would think that ^this^ is due more to placebo effect and some sense of renewed confidence due to less cabin noise (from the transmission) than any real ability of the motor to now reach redline. Not to "burst your bubble", but all that tranny work while certainly worthwhile for the entirety of your experience, does nothing for the overall reliability/performance of the engine (unless the tranny was so bad as to bog the engine down?). In any case, I'm glad you feel like you got your money's worth and best of luck going forward - it sounds like you found a good shop! Now that you've got that much more $ into her, I'd recommend going for another $3 or $4k and having the solution installed - dual row bearing or not, they do fail - and wouldn't it suck if it failed after all this...
Every indy is the best indy until you have a falling out over that one job that goes sideways...and suddenly he's an incompetent thieving scumbag extortionist. Especially once the internet weighs in.
I'm not a mechanic - but if you're self-employed in any industry, this is applicable.
A good indy is like a good proctologist - extraordinarily competent, highly paid, and best avoided unless absolutely necessary.
My Corvette guy is the closest thing to a "great" indy I've ever found, because he's old, cantankerous, and has seen it all. I shared one plan I had for a bitchin' upgrade to my Corvette I found online a few years back...he looked at me and said, "Why in the f**k would you want to do that? You see that on the Internet or somethin'?"
At less than a 1% failure rate of the double row bearing I feel very safe. Even if a change was made, it recommends that the new bearing be changed again every 30 to 45000 miles. That statement does not make me rush into changing my perfectly good double row for a single row replacement. But thanks for your concern in this matter.
I said "having the solution installed"...It seems you're not familiar with this product and that it's a one time replacement ("designed for the life of the engine"). You posted a picture of the single row pro bearing...30 - 45,000 mi. replacement for the "single row pro"? No, actually the literature says "recommended replacement 75,000 mi. or 6 years" . In any case, it sounds like you're pretty confident in your original bearing - I hope it hold up for you
why would I have my double row replaced with another double row of theirs? Their double row is the upgrade for the single row which can handle the load capacity. I already have a double row so I will leave 'well alone'. Dammit this thread has turned into another IMS thread. That's the last thing I wanted. I will try and change the subject by wishing all our readers a "Very Merry Christmas"..
There are three LN IMS retrofit products:
* Single-row IMSB for single-row cars
* Single-row pro for single-row cars
*
Dual-row IMSB for dual-row cars
The reason you'd replace your dual-row with another dual-row is the same reason you replaced your perfectly functional AOS during your last service - as preventive maintenance. I understand you don't consider the dual-row bearing to be a risk factor, but at least minimize the amount of misinformation in your replies so people who might actually want to do a dual-row retrofit will not be confused into thinking that the single row pro has ANYTHING to do with dual-row IMSB-equipped cars.
Merry Christmas to you, too.
