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YOUR RESEARCHTicking time bomb or needs oil change?
Reported or suspected cause
dual mass flywheel
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No successful repair reported for this finding.
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Reported cause
You may get lucky and all your noise is caused by the dual mass flywheel which is definitely failing..
Leading evidence: 'dual mass flywheel' (1 discussions report identifying this cause; no attributable repair resolution). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'dual mass flywheel' (1 discussions; 1 report identifying it and 0 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Check filter pleats' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Suggestion
The oil "pan" is very easy to remove so once the oil has drained out remove the "pan" also to clean & inspect there.
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Suggestion
When you change the oil be sure to capture the oil filter housing oil and filter element in a *clean* drain pan for carefull examination of any metal/plastic debris in the oil caught in the filter element folds.
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Suggestion
When you change the oil be sure to capture the oil filter housing oil and filter element in a *clean* drain pan for carefull examination of any metal/plastic debris in the oil caught in the filter element folds.
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First diagnosis needed. I've searched forums and YouTube and found similar noises. One pointed to a loose clamp on the coolant hose, but mine is secure. There was a loose AC line clamp in the deck lid. Removed that, and started it up. No noise. Went in side to get ready to go for a ride, left car running. Came back out and it's ticking away.
I picked up the car yesterday, so I don't know that much about it yet
Current Mileage: 162,600
Last oil known oil change: 149,930
Valve cover gaskets and camshaft solenoid gasket replaced at 162,459 during pre purchase service.
Car was running for about 10 mins. Water temp just a tick above 180. Oil pressure between 1-2 I think, 4-5 when cold.
You Tube
When was the last oil change? Months and/or miles?
How long was car running while preparing for ride? Water temp? Oil pressure?
Mine makes similar noise at times usually when hot in hotter weather, then quite as a mouse other times. It is quieter with fresh oil. I was thinking scored liner but no longer sure.
There are more knowledgeable people who should respond.
Good luck.
Based on what you posted the oil's got around 13K miles on it. Even after 5K miles I hear more noises from my Porsche engines but still nothing like that ticking.
You can do an oil and filter service. Use an approved oil. Really the engine should be quiet with 0w-40 so no need to overthink this oil business right now.
However, my guess is the noise will still be present after the oil/filter service. Still at 13K miles the oil's due to be changed.
You or better a tech will have to pinpont the source of the noise and from this the tech then will have a pretty good idea of what's going on and what it will take to address the noise.
When you change the oil be sure to capture the oil filter housing oil and filter element in a *clean* drain pan for carefull examination of any metal/plastic debris in the oil caught in the filter element folds.
Consider getting an oil analysis sample bottle and capturing a proper sample of oil for analysis too.
As the owner of one with 168,000 miles on the original engine, obviously higher miles are possible. I'd be really concerned with that 13,000 oil change interval. What were the mileage/time periods before that? You've bought it, so there's no going back. Did you change the oil yet? Cut open the filter? I'd consider switching to DT40. Good luck!!! Need pics!
Do an oil/filter change now. 13,000 on the engine oil is almost 3 times recommended interval for an oil/filter change. Change it out with a quality oil such as Mobil 1 0W-40 and new filter. Check the filter pleats for any debris. Also recommend going to a full flow oil filter adapter and magnetic drain plug. It might be just a gummed up lifter from crappy old oil. Would recommend doing it again in under 2,000 miles.
I would suggest that you google "Blackstone Labratories" out of Ft Wayne IN they can do an oil analysis for you. I have 2002 Turbo and a 912E and use then every third of fourth oil change. They can pick up engine ware issues and provide in site into you're engine's condition. Good luck!
I plan to get the oil changed ASAP. Just not possible today. to get the right parts. I have a blackstone kit in my possession.
Took the wheels off and got under the car to get a better listen. The major noise now sounds like it coming from the front of the transmission. At the very least forward of the rear wheels.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u0WFLDtLJZI
tried that after reading another post on trans noises. hard to test with just myself here, but I think it does go away when I press the clutch in.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lHprcDEFnuc
I agree with Ahsai, the first video sounded like scored cylinder/ piston clearance, the others sound like a bad dual mass flywheel. Change oil and filter, looks for metallic debris in oil filter and canister, if all clear. R&R transmission and check dual mass flywheel, I have seen the dual mass flywheel make noises similar to piston or rod knocking. There is a test procedure that you can find online to test the dual mass flywheel for proper operation.
Sorry about that what I was going to say is that a stethoscope is handy in identifying strange engine noises. If there is an issue with your lifters or example the noise difference will stand out
Whenever I buy a car that is not brand new I change the oil & filter A.S.A.P! The oil "pan" is very easy to remove so once the oil has drained out remove the "pan" also to clean & inspect there. Search this forum for pic's of typical debris found in the pan. I would not start your 996 until you are ready to change the oil & fully warm the engine by idiling til temp gauge is at 180.
Just saw your post announcing the delivery of your "new" Porsche which you bought from a dealer. A moot point now but curious if any kind of PREpurchase inspection was done before you bought the car?
NTL, I hope you get this sorted out soon and it turns out to be a "NO BIGGIE" so you can go back to enjoying your new P-car
Some more investigation reveals that the engine tick goes away with throttle and the rattle goes away with the clutch in.
have to take it to dealer for inspection so will likely have them diagnose and go from there.
Re PPI, I picked up the car for a good enough price that I didn't worry about a PPI. Worst case scenario it gets parted out and I make some money.
hopefully it doesn't come to that.
thanks all for taking the time to listen and make suggestions.
What is the prognosis for scored cylinders, keep driving and adding oil if needed or rebuild pronto. Does that change if the plans are to track the car?
You can keep adding oil, however your engine will be creating small particles of debris, some of which will travel through the stock oil filter esp during startup spreading them through the oil paths, if they score your crank journals then your crank may end up being scrap, which just adds to the cost of a rebuild later. Same with cam bearings etc.
Also remember that the cylinder walls have microscopic particles of silica which is extremely hard, these will be dislodged too as well as aluminum debris.
You may get lucky and all your noise is caused by the dual mass flywheel which is definitely failing.. Also take the stethoscope and listen carefully to the cats, I have seen them make the same sound as a the cylinder score/piston noise !!! The catalyst element can come loose and tick with the pulse of the engine, and of course noise goes away with constant pressure from increased RPM.
I drained the oil today, cut open the filter and collected a sample for blackstone. While I was down there and the oil was out I dropped the oil pan For good measure.
filter did not look too bad to my eye, only found a few small particles on the outside and inside
You Tube
You Tube
Oil pan sump definitely had some sediment but it was not magnetic
right now mystery meat, but they are not magnetic, I know that much. The gasket material looks a little sloppily applied so perhaps it's some extra. Will be investigating today.
Based on another
thread
and comments from Mr. Raby, I believe the materials have been identified.
circle is from the sump, rectangle is from the area outside
Aluminum shavings from manufacturing
Mystery gunk?
Timing chain guide
I tried finding the thread where Jake explains how to get to it with a scope from underneath....no luck.
I split the cases so I haven't actually scoped from the sump
Huzzah!!!!
Oil change has greatly reduced, or eliminated the tap. Also I have not heard the "flywheel" rattle yet. Car feels awesome!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mr6wsM_HNhA
https://youtu.be/u0WFLDtLJZI
Your flywheel could have gone from "flailing around" to "locked up". If its in the locked up mode, to verify drive in 4th gear at about 1500 rpm and see if you get any "gear noise" when lugging. (will sound like an old worn out dump truck trans). Trust that the noise didn't just go away.
I'm betting the noise didn't go away either, unless it was something else entirely. Right now all signs are looking up.
Now to put some miles on the new Michelin PSS
