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YOUR RESEARCHKey Fob Problem
Leading reported evidence
Install button switches i bought
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
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0
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1
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
I took my fob to a local computer store and for $50 they re-soldered all the connections and installed new button switches I bought on eBay for $10.
Leading evidence: 'Install button switches i bought' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Install button switches i bought' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
I�ve tried the �flip over battery� reset, replaced the battery, nothing.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
They ran a ground wire from the coil pack to the underside of the battery, where it was attached to a metal bracket.
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Suggestion
Most service centers I've dealt with won't try to repair malfunctioning transmitters aside from putting a new battery in them.
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Suggestion
Yea, come to think of it, it's my 99 Cabriolet that when it's locked and I just reach in and open the door from the inside instead of using the key that I have to tun on the ignition within 5 seconds to disable the alarm.
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42 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
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3 acknowledgements have no verified action link; they do not establish a repair result.
I bought my 2001 911 in Sept of 2017. It came with one key which would only start the car. The FOB did not work. I purchased a new fob and took both of them to the local dealer last spring and asked them to program both of them. They programmed the new one, but were not able to program the old one. The new one has worked fine till last week when it decided to quit. Any idea of what's going on? I think that I will visit the dealer in the next week or two.
Myron
I looked at it It seemed ok, but in reality I should have had a magnifying glass. However, the red light comes on, on the fob whenever either button is pushed. Does this confirm that the solder joints are good?
Been down this road many times. If it's not the battery, then it means a trip to the dealership for reprogramming. Always have a feyfob backup with these cars.
I stopped at the dealer today. He wants $169 for diagnostics. Then he will be able to tell me what the cost will be. I told him that I just want the key fob reprogrammed. "Sorry, we can't do that. Diagnostics first" Is he just screwing with me? Should I take it to my local Indy? By the way this FOB was new 1 1/2 yrs ago and was originally programmed by this dealer.
Befriend your local dealer and ask them to program you a key while getting a service done perhaps?
+996 on keeping a new keys swing tag/code.
There was someone on here claiming they could reprogram used keys without the tag, how much truth there was to that - i'm not sure...
I took my fob to a local computer store and for $50 they re-soldered all the connections and installed new button switches I bought on eBay for $10. Key fob works great now.
That sounds like a great plan!!!
My lock/unlock button never worked and the module actually doesnt like staying put in the key head for some reason. . I removed it and have gotten used to unlocking car from drivers door now.
Im actually waiting on one of the Lighted Key Heads from Sonnen Porsche to fit my existing key to. May order a second for a second key blank I have and just glue the pill behind the ignition trim as has been mentioned in a previous thread if I cant get the keyless entry to work easy enough.
I bought the fob from Suncoast Porsche about a yr ago. My local dealer programmed the key. I don't remember there being a 10 digit code. Will I need that code to get it reprogrammed? Is it imprinted on the body of the fob? Would Sunset have a record of it? Would my local dealer who did the programming last time? Or am up Schitts Creek?!
The fob would have had a paper swingtag on it with the code. Once it's used that's it you can't get it back unless you have the swingtag. It's not printed on the shell.
Looks like this:
Yes, you'll need the original bar code that came with your transmitter (i.e. keyfob). It should have been in the little ziplock bag with the fob. I always take a picture of the bar code just in case I lose mine for some reason. If I'm not mistaken, these transmitters use "non
-
volatile memory"which means it's supposed to retain the programming even if the battery goes dead, but I don't trust anything that doesn't have redundancy and even then I have another form of backup. Of course, something else could have gone wrong with the electronics. Has it ever gotten wet? Did you closely examine all the internal connections? Anyway, IMHO Porsche will want to sell you an new keyfob and move the laser-cut portion over to the new fob. Most service centers I've dealt with won't try to repair malfunctioning transmitters aside from putting a new battery in them.
I think I remember that a Porsche dealer can obtained the original key code from Stuttgart (factory), provided that it is an original VIN, key and immobilizer. And they need to have your car. They won't give it to you though but they can use it to program more keys for your car. And, my memory can be foggy sometimes.
I'm constantly learning new stuff about my 996. So this means that getting 2 fobs for your used Porsche is great as long as they don't need to be resynced to the car--at that point they become mostly junk (other than the key part) because who ever gets this little piece of paper with the keys?
And by the way, the "I'll charge you to tell you how much I will charge you" is not specific to Porsche. Infiniti tried to pull the same thing on me. I just wanted to pay 1 hour for them to flash updates on my 2007 G-35, but they wouldn't do it. They said they'd charge me $125 for one hour to "diagnose and advise". Needless to say, but I'll say it anyway, I haven't been back to the dealer.
It becomes a perpetuating circle: the dealers try to money grab if we ever go to them for service so we avoid going to them for service, thus causing the dealers to money grab when we actually do show up.
I got in the habit of stapling the key tag to the RO whenever I programmed a new remote. The RO is put into the dealership files and kept for a min of 5 years. I can't say that this dealer/tech did this as there is no set handling instructions for the key tag. He may have stapled it to the RO, may have placed in your owners manual, may have tossed it..who knows..
Not for remotes. The key code for the laser-cut high security metal key is in IPAS, also the learning code to teach the immobilizer is in IPAS and can be accessed by lead dealer tech or service manager.
There is also a code for the transponder (pill), and a code for the remote. The code for the transponder (pill) can be read and written to the immobilizer with the Piwis tester. The code for the remote must come from the paper key tag.
So, in theory, you could go to the dealer, have a laser key cut and have an RFID pill programmed in the key, and that will work. You can unlock the door with the key and the ignition will work. The only thing they cannot do is program the remote to lock/unlock the car without the paper key tag. Learn something new everyday.
Never thought about this on the Porsche 996. Are you saying that if you manually lock/unlock the car with the laser cut portion, the car will engage/disengage the security system as normal?
Yes. I bought a new key head. I swapped the key and RFID pill and it starts and locks/unlocks the car. To get the remote function to work I'd have to pay the dealer, which I don't plan on doing.
A VW dealer did that to me too. I had a CEL showing insufficient grounding to one of the cylinders on my VW New Beetle. I Googled it and found that it was a common fault and there was a VW service bulletin for the fix. I had just gotten the car (used) and didn't even think about attempting it, not being familiar with the car. I printed out the article and the service bulletin and brought them and the car to the dealer. They told me they had to charge me $125 to diagnose the problem. I argued that the diagnosis was already done and a fix identified. They didn't budge. The all-in cost was just under $1000. A year later the CEL came back. This time I decided to fix it myself. After removing the plastic cover on the engine, I saw what they did. They ran a ground wire from the coil pack to the underside of the battery, where it was attached to a metal bracket. The thin wire had corroded. The whole "fix" couldn't have taken them more than 5 minutes. Needless to say, they'll never get another dollar from me.
yep,try it !
BUT you must also turn on the ignition with the laser cut key and have the "pill" in close proximity( either in the hey head or glued to the surround) within 5 seconds to disable the alarm.
Yea, at my age I don't move fast either. When I manually unlock, I immediately put the key in ignition and turn on, THEN get in the car and get comphy.
On my Tip I just go ahead and crank it while still standing outside since I don't have to push a clutch pedal down to start.
Strange. On my 99 C2, I can manually unlock the door (which I have to do every time because my key fob gave up remote 10 years ago), put the key in my pocket and can go about my business, loading groceries in the frunk, unload stuff, walk away. The car does not re-lock or set off the alarm. I can unlock, put the key in my pocket, never open the door and come back later and it is still just sitting there. Door opens right up. No alarm, no nothing. Just get in, fire it up and drive away.
Yea, come to think of it, it's my 99 Cabriolet that when it's locked and I just reach in and open the door from the inside instead of using the key that I have to tun on the ignition within 5 seconds to disable the alarm.
Sucks getting old and having Sometimerze.
For my �02 Turbo, there�s no consistency, except that it will alarm if unlocked with the key. It has alarmed immediately upon unlock, or at 10 seconds after unlocking. I�m always prepared for the immediate-alarm case, so as soon as I unlock it, I stick the key in, and turn on the ignition (can�t fully start it because it�s got 3 pedals)... When it has immediately alarmed, just sticking in the key hasn�t silenced it; the key has to be turned to light the dash.
My fob just stopped working, just as I parked the car at the showcase at the
The High Altitude Porsche Tour
. Great! So here�s me trying to move the car while onlookers are there, hoping not to be the guy who sets off his alarm... Thankfully, she decided not to immediately alarm...
Current key is the original fob electronics, security pill, and cut metal key swapped into an aftermarket replacement head (I still have the original, but its �snap� points were so well worn they would no longer keep the key together). It had been eating batteries at a fast rate- one every month or so, for a car that is garaged most of the time. I�ve tried the �flip over battery� reset, replaced the battery, nothing. The LED does light now that it has a fresh battery.
Any other ideas? And, no, the keys did not get delivered with the tags, so it seems perhaps new ones are in order, unless I just want to unlock with the driver�s door lock.
I figured out my issue a few weeks ago. I don't think I posted my issue here because I could never get a consistent read on what was happening.
I finally figured out if I hold the remote in front of the windshield, it locks and unlocks 100% of the time. So my 996 is a victim of the bad reception issue. There is a service bulletin to address this issue, so when I'm bored, I'll do the work for that--I think there's a new antenna assembly and it gets relocated. Too many other higher priorities for it at the moment.
I just found Porschetech3’s post in #37 of this forum:
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...are-key-3.html
Will try this later today and report.
I’m assuming when s/he writes, “then press the unlock button” s/he’s referring to the dashboard button....
That reset trick didn’t help. It might for someone else, so if you try it, please post results. For me, I noticed that the red LED is lit when I unlock manually, which my indie tells me is the signal that something is wrong with the locking system. The last time, it was a passenger’s door lock mechanism that wouldn’t lock and also didn’t signal properly for the regulator to lower the window.
Cheers,
Uh, no, not really helpful. I�ve gotten 17 years out of both keys, and I have no concern about paying a dealer or an indie to reprogram some more for the years to come.
