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YOUR RESEARCHFlat Six Innovations How to change coils vid
Leading reported evidence
Install with every engine
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1
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Read evidence and context
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Then they’ll weigh in, and even though they have not driven hundreds of each car, fitted with every engine on the planet, they’ll argue..
Leading evidence: 'Install with every engine' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Install with every engine' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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I’ve always changed spark plugs around 50-60,000 miles.
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Suggestion
Like failing to reconnect the coil pack connectors till they “click”.
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Suggestion
I’m mystified why they keep going though a BMW tech told me long spark plug change intervals are hard on the coils.
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Suggestion
I've read where many people have gone through the trouble of removing the rear bumper and then attempted to remove the rear exhaust system only to run into serious problems trying to remove rusted, seized bolts.
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Suggestion
I've read where many people have gone through the trouble of removing the rear bumper and then attempted to remove the rear exhaust system only to run into serious problems trying to remove rusted, seized bolts.
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Rennlist: 1 discussions
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I'll see if I can get someone to put a bug in his ear. These are awesome videos. Stuff I would never do because well...my knuckles start bleeding when I open the engine hood! I know this was "reality TV" because I know the guy who owns the car.
Removing them does make it easier, but I wanted to show that you could leave them in place. Removing mufflers increases the chances of broken fasteners, so I try to avoid that.
A video on injector swap with the engine in the car would suck to shoot.. No way to really get access for a camera in there.
Our video focus now is on the step by step engine rebuild video, with the assembly portion being filmed in 10 days or so from now.
Access does look super tight unfortunately!
Factory manual calls for the coolant to be removed and lines off the tank as well as engine drop of 40mm would you recommend that Jake? Im not a super big guy haha. Was hoping to weave my way around and get it done? Bank 1 looks tough bank 2 looks achievable.
Might start a separate thread on it.
You don't need any of that, but it is not the most pleasant job to do without a lift. Even with a lift, the contortion of the arms is a real bitch. Totally doable, but not pleasant.
Contortionist is right! hahaha... But aren't most jobs on the Porsches contorting? I've read where many people have gone through the trouble of removing the rear bumper and then attempted to remove the rear exhaust system only to run into serious problems trying to remove rusted, seized bolts. Am I wrong here? In many cases, they break the bolts off and then it requires heat torches and/or boring them out. Therefore, I like Jake's enthusiasm showing how it can be done without removing everything. Jake makes everything look easy because he's a master engine builder and this is stuff that he could do blindfolded. I'm sure the average DIYer wouldn't have the fancy lift like Jake, but instead, put the car on stands. That means, it would be stupid to not remove the wheels. Removing the exhaust or dropping the engine? Eeekk, not my cup of tea!
I wish you'd do a video on explaining in detail why you believe the early 996 cars like the '99 model are superior to the later ones. I've purchased many 996/ M96 engine books and have yet to see anything other than the darn dual row IMS, that would make it that much better.
I'm sure you could do it blindfolded. The rest of us need a bit more light on the subject, but we do really appreciate the videos and hope you continue.
My idea with the video was to show this in the absolute hardest way possible.. If someone is using ramps to access under the car, it sucks to try wheel removal.
I try to remove as little pieces as possible when doing any job. The more you touch, the easier it is to screw up something. Broken fasteners are always my nightmare.
The purpose of the video was to build confidence in the DIY’r doing the job, show the layout, go over some tools, and show how to grade the coils. The secondary objective is the Show a few “gotcha” items that can cause more work, later... Like failing to reconnect the coil pack connectors till they “click”.
As far as a video on the early Vs. later 996. That one is asking for trouble. The people that have only driven the car they own will get pissed if I say the early 1999 is a better car than their 2001. Then they’ll weigh in, and even though they have not driven hundreds of each car, fitted with every engine on the planet, they’ll argue.. That will lead to comments that will **** me off.
I'd love an injector swap vid...Maybe use a borescope for some tight shots?
I really appreciate all that you are doing here for us. DIY is the only way to go for me...
The hardest way in many cases is the best way in the long run. I'm glad the job can be done without removing the rear bumper and exhaust system. In my opinion, that would seem to be harder, especially if you break off the head of a fastener. I just looked at mine and they are rusted really bad.
Are the coils failure prone on the 996? My 2004 BMW 325i has 230,000 miles and still has the original coils (I’m the original owner). I’m mystified why they keep going though a BMW tech told me long spark plug change intervals are hard on the coils. I’ve always changed spark plugs around 50-60,000 miles.
The coils are IMO most prone to cracks which allow water in then cause missfires.
The 996 part has been superseded to a thicker more robust 997 part and is worth the upgrade as preventative maintenance.
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