11 captured repliesDiscussion pagination complete · Source accounts, not a confirmed diagnosis
THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHEngine mount install
Leading reported evidence
Use jack
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
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0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
Discussions
Read evidence and context
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
I drove my rear wheels up my rhino ramps and then used my jack to lift the engine under the engine's oil pan.
Leading evidence: 'Use jack' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Run into problems doing one side at time' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
I used a second jack (from the tool kit) to nudge it up and that worked.
Outcome qualification: Negation, uncertainty or missing explicit repair resolution overrides the raw extraction signal.
Run into problems doing one side at time
Suggestion or failed attempt
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Suggestion
I think some people have run into problems doing one side at time.
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Suggestion
Unfortunately the RS mounts dont have the self setting bit - its just a standard bolt...
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
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Suggestion
Tighten the top bolts and then the bottom engine mount nuts.
Outcome qualification: Negation, uncertainty or missing explicit repair resolution overrides the raw extraction signal.
Coverage and how to read this overview
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11 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
0 evidence records excluded for query context · 0 excluded by outcome qualification · 1 adjusted by outcome qualification.
0 acknowledgements have no verified action link; they do not establish a repair result.
Generation: 20261026T130754Z · outcome-qualification-6. Deterministic extraction; no AI model inference. How we use sources
Hi everyone,
Trying to do an engine mount install and everyone says it's an "easy DIY" which it seems to be. However, One important question that I have and cannot seem to find an answer.
How far should the carrier mount be from the frame/body before tightening?
Or is there something that will indicate when the carrier mount is at the correct distance? i.e a contact point on the new mount that will prevent it from going any higher.
Thanks in advance.
Pretty easy for both sides. Use a block of wood and jack up the engine so the carrier mount rises to just where the back of the car starts to lift. Undo bottom nuts (18mm deep socket) and then the engine mount bolts. Place the new engine mounts into the holes and make sure the square part aligns with the carrier mount. Tighten the top bolts and then the bottom engine mount nuts. Lower back down and open a beer.
I just replaced mine and it is an easy job. I measured the amount of thread protruding from the nut before I started and then measured again after I torqued them to 63 ft lbs. I drove my rear wheels up my rhino ramps and then used my jack to lift the engine under the engine's oil pan. I had an oversized furniture moving pad between the pan and my jack so I didn't score the engine pan. I was little startled when I removed the first nut under the car. I guess that I had lifted the rear a little too much.
I removed both 18mm nuts on the bottom of the mounts before doing the top. I think some people have run into problems doing one side at time. When I installed the new mounts, I jacked up the engine a bit so there was almost the same amount of thread showing when I took it off.
My car only has 40K but the mounts were a bit worn and now shifting is bit more positive and the engine doesn't seesaw as much when I give it throttle.
If you buy a "kit" it will come with the nuts, which is a good thing. If you buy them separately, buy the nuts too.
One tip I have is that you should have another jack on hand just in case. When I did mine, as soon as I removed the mount from one side, the engine carrier dropped another inch or so. That made it impossible to thread the nut on the new mount. I used a second jack (from the tool kit) to nudge it up and that worked. I had read of others encountering this issue so I didn't panic. It's probably from not having the main jack and wood positioned exactly in the middle or the wood being too narrow.
This thread is timely as I've just received my 964 RS mounts, assuming the procedure is the same?
I had the same question, as my current mounts are sagging around ~15mm does that mean theoretically I need to raise the carrier ~15mm to bring it back up? Unfortunately the RS mounts dont have the self setting bit - its just a standard bolt...
