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YOUR RESEARCHAlignment question
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Replace most all mounts, nuts and bolts in suspension
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
Most all mounts, nuts and bolts in suspension have been replaced with new Porsche parts.
Leading evidence: 'Replace most all mounts, nuts and bolts in suspension' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Replace most all mounts, nuts and bolts in suspension' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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I use -1.8 in front and -1.4 in rear - with the minimum amount of toe out both front and rear.
Run r-compound track tires) so definitely need more negative camber
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Suggestion
This year, my first track season w/ the car I have chewed the heck out of the outer edges of the front tires (running R-compound track tires) so definitely need more negative camber.
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Suggestion · Original poster
His shop does a lot of set-ups on spec miata cars and other cars that run at Watkins Glen, we are less than an hour away from the track.
Run r-compound track tires) so definitely need more negative camber
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Suggestion
This year, my first track season w/ the car I have chewed the heck out of the outer edges of the front tires (running R-compound track tires) so definitely need more negative camber.
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From what I have read you have to install them backwards left to right and the geometry is still not right (wheel ends up too far forward in the well) but it can be made to work.
I have a 2003 C2 996 NA
The suspension has been upgraded to Techart springs, sway bars and front strut brace.
The shocks are Bilsten B8s.
Most all mounts, nuts and bolts in suspension have been replaced with new Porsche parts.
The wheels are Cargraphic 3 piece 18x9 and 18x11, the tires are Sumitomo HTR Z III, 245x40rx18 and 295x30rx18.
This is WOT coming up the esses at Watkins Glen
After the installation, the alignment was put to all standard specs.
I want a little bit more aggressive alignment.
Anyone with a similar suspension, have specs that work well.
Daily Driver, 5k miles / year and 5 track days / year and a couple autocross.
Thanks
David
I have B8 performance plus and H&R
I use -1.8 in front and -1.4 in rear - with the minimum amount of toe out both front and rear. - your shop will know what this means.
this is based on the X74 alignment specs that porsche publishes - in fact you can go lots more aggressive in the front -1.9 or -2.0 but start with -1.8 and see how that works for you ... I love it - my usage is same as yours (tad more track days... )
I am going down this path right now with the same car (03 996 C2). Currently in the research and ordering parts phase. This year, my first track season w/ the car I have chewed the heck out of the outer edges of the front tires (running R-compound track tires) so definitely need more negative camber.
My goal is to hit -2.5 degree front and -2 degree rear.
From that I have read you can hit -2 on the rear w/ the stock eccentrics. If you are lowering the car with this you'll want to install adjustable rear toe links to correct the toe back to around zero.
To hit -2 to -2.5 on the front you need adjustable top mounts on coilovers or GT3 lower coffin arms, or both. I suspect with factory springs (such as M030 or X74) you might hit the inside of the shock tower, or your wheel might hit the spring perch, w/ the adjustable top mounts but would not with narrower diameter coilovers. My suspicion is if you are running factory springs (again M030 or X74) you would need the lower coffin arms to get the wheel out and away from the large diameter spring perch. Also on the front if you are lowering the car you'll want to install bump steer tie rods.
There are some issues w/ the GT3 lower coffin arms on C2 cars because the C2 uses different pickup points than the C4 or Turbo cars. From what I have read you have to install them backwards left to right and the geometry is still not right (wheel ends up too far forward in the well) but it can be made to work.
I am going with coilovers with an adjustable top, hopefully I can hit at least -2 on the front with this setup sticking w/ the stock lower arms. I will be installing all poly bushings with this project as well.
agree with slightly more negative camber and slight front toe out.
specifics would depend on driving style, track layout, tires and tire temps. IE may not need such high negative camber with street tires. Slightly more F toe out for autox, slightly less for larger tracks
Thank you for suggestions.
My alignment guy is only down the road.
His shop does a lot of set-ups on spec miata cars and other cars that run at Watkins Glen, we are less than an hour away from the track.
I will show them these suggestions and try this for the rest of the year on the street.
no more track days till spring
Thanks
David
Fwiw I have rss control arms in front. -2.5 in frint wont work well as a DD Pure track sure !
There is never a perfect balance but -1.8 f and -1.4 rear is great for combo duty. You can even try going -2.0 or -1.9 for front if u feel-1.8 isnt enough or you are getting lots of edge wear
a pyrometer is the way to know for sure!
