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YOUR RESEARCHNeed some help/advice about replacing brakes/rotors
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Use ebc red stuff
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I use EBC Red Stuff for my daily driver and it's a good low dust pad.
Need some help/advice about replacing brakes/rotors
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Leading evidence: 'Use ebc red stuff' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'only one who will ever notice it' (1 discussions; 0 report identifying it and 1 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Check .....i'll join you in my garage' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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I used a small C clamp to compress the pistons (one side at a time) and the pads slid right out.
Need some help/advice about replacing brakes/rotors
Use small flathead screwdriver
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I just used a utility knife to get up under the disk and then used a small flathead screwdriver to peel the adhesive disk away.
Need some help/advice about replacing brakes/rotors
Use small piece of an indoor/outdoor carpet scrap
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
I use a small piece of an indoor/outdoor carpet scrap to protect the caliper
Need some help/advice about replacing brakes/rotors
Use textar oem pads, ate coated rotors
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I personally used Textar OEM pads, ATE Coated rotors with replacement sensors and hardware package from Jason at Warehouse 33 he gives you a renlist discount.
Need some help/advice about replacing brakes/rotors
Replace brake discs and pads
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Suggestion
It takes the ****, replacing brake discs and pads on a 996 is no harder than any other car but guess what, they charge loads more, I get why the parts cost more as they are high performance but why more to fit them, luckily I can do my own work and brakes are so easy really like pads, remove two circlips, hammer out pins, prize Pistons back , remove pads, slide new pads in, refit pins and circlips, done , takes half hour, oh and the rotor had one retaining bolt , whack it with a hammer and it's off, really hard that!!
Need some help/advice about replacing brakes/rotors
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Hey guys, so my brake warning light just came on a week or so ago. To prevent any further wear before I was able to evaluate it, I've kept it in the garage. So I called up the stealer to inquire about service and they quoted me numbers into the thousands depending on whether the rotors needed to be replaced or not.
Hell nah. So I've never worked on brakes before but I'm decently mechanically inclined. I looked into how to change the pads and it appears to be quite simple.
1st question:
So far, I've only had a chance to take the rear wheels off. The rotors have zero cracks and turn freely without any notchy sections. They both measured around 23.94 to 24mm in thickness. Is it safe to assume the rear rotors are probably fine?
2nd question:
Since I've never replaced brake pads, I'm not all that familiar with what is worn and what is not worn. Is this worn and would this have triggered the sensor? Is it concerning that one side appears to be quite a bit thicker?
DCkyYEU.jpg
3rd question:
I originally started to check the fronts first but after removing the lug bolts the wheel literally stuck to the axle. I even took out the freakin guide bolt and it just hung there in mid air. What the heck? One of the rear wheels started to act like it was going to do the same thing but I gave it a good kick and it came loose. Should I just give it a good pounding (while the guide bolt is in) and see if that loosens it? I've never heard of this happening. lol
4th question:
Is there a particular brand I should look for/look out for? Theres a ton of kits on eBay. Any recommendations?
Thanks everybody. You guys know I've spent way too much money on the tranny fiasco so I'm hoping to God I can't just do the pads myself and move on. haha
I'm planning to do pads & rotors on the rear this winter with the help of this:
https://www.amazon.com/Projects-Pors.../dp/0760344035
gl, let us know how it goes.
Those pads look fine. Plenty of wear left in them. When the actual pad gets about 1mm is when I swap them.
There are lots of really good pads out there. I use EBC Red Stuff for my daily driver and it's a good low dust pad.
Are you wheels powder coated? This can cause them to stick. But yes, just get aggressive with it to get it off.
Lots of choices available in pads and you should definitely be able to change them yourself and save some $
http://www.paragon-products.com/Pors...akes-s/264.htm
Thanks for the replies. It must be the fronts that set off the sensor. I'll pull off the wheels when I get home today. It was getting late last night while working on them and I didn't wanna **** off the neighbors hammering out retainer pins haha
Its a pretty easy DIY.
These videos show you most of what you need to know. Some debate on whether or not to replace the bolts at time of fitting, I did not, just applied threadlocker.
Check to see if there is a noticeable lip on the discs (rotors) mine failed safety so I had to replace fronts, pads were still good.
I personally used Textar OEM pads, ATE Coated rotors with replacement sensors and hardware package from Jason at Warehouse 33 he gives you a renlist discount.
But as others will mention there are lots of choices. Final note is front rotors are directional rears are not.
You Tube
You Tube
Standard thickness for OEM rotors for your Carrera are 28mm (front) and 24 mm (rear)
When brake pad thickness reaches about 2 mm, the sensor creates a short which in turn illuminates a "Brake" MIL. Therefore, if you're getting Brake warning lights, then it's time to at least replace your pads with new sensors and vibration dampers.
There's an extreme amount of hydraulic pressure and it's not uncommon for the pads to be gripping the rotor which wouldn't allow you to rotate it. You should follow Van Sveson's guide to replace Porsche 996 brakes and rotors. In the video, he shows how to remove each peace and release hydraulic pressure in order to remove the pads.
You Tube
I personally went with Meyle. IMHO, they're perfectly fine for normal driving and they grip a lot better than what I was experiencing with the OEM setup. I was able to replace the pads and rotors for front and rear for well under $500.00.
Decent set of Textar pads:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Porsche-911-...lVajUu&vxp=mtr
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Porsche-Brak...tXxvvj&vxp=mtr
Here's a inexpensive complete kit which includes Meyle rotors for under $300:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Porsche-911-...hWVGx0&vxp=mtr
Here's a decent Brembo kit for around $500.00
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Quality-BRAK...JX9KKP&vxp=mtr
Of course, many will swear by high-end pads, but unless you're tracking the car, I don't think you need them.
Don't forget the brake pad's vibration dampers:
(you might be able to reuse your olds ones, but they're glued to the pads.)
*FRONT*
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Porsche-99-1...JWDjcn&vxp=mtr
*REAR*
(You should be able to reuse your old ones!)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Genuine-...VWxSWD&vxp=mtr
Whatever happened with Dennis and the old transmission? Did he pay up since he didn't know what he was doing???
Take a 2 lb beater and a 2x4 and whack the wheel from the inside. Hit it in a couple different spots around the wheel. If the wheels haven't been off in a while that is reason it is sticking. Been there done that.
Also someone said to change out the caliper bolts....only do this if you are removing the calipers. Doing brake pads do not require caliper removal. Changing pads is one of the easiest DIY's that come to mind on the pcar. Good luck.
Yeah, I'm hoping I don't have to do the rotors. Pads definitely look super easy. Though, how do I go about compressing the pistons without removing the calipers? Will a C-clamp reach in there?
All you need is a small metal putty knife and slide it between the damper and the pad. It might take a little effort, but not much and you can easily separate the dampers from the pads
No need to buy new ones unless that are damaged
Many also don't bother with using the dampers at all
All you need is a pair of channel locks. As Van's vid shows, put the channel locks on the brake pad tab / ear and caliper and compress. That will push the piston back into the caliper. On the outside of the caliper use some cardboard to protect the caliper finish.
I don't remember exactly because I didn't bother writing it down. It was around 500 for just the front pads, 600 for just the rears, around 1000 for rotors and pads in the front and 1200 for rotors and pads in rear I think.
Wow. That's crazy high. In case the video doesn't show it, you will need a small putty knife to separate the dampeners from the pads.
I like the cardboard idea but I just wrap the jaws of my channel locks with gorilla tape to squeeze the calipers.
+996 on channelocks for spreading the pads
I use a small piece of an indoor/outdoor carpet scrap to protect the caliper
I like the idea of using tape. Good idea Slakker
Okay, so I pulled the front wheels off and the pads look to be at least 5mm. No cracking in the rotors and they spin freely. Is it possible something just tripped the sensor for some reason? The light is no longer on and when I search for messages it says there are none.
A cheapo brake spreader is $6 on Amazon...while I am a diehard fan of using the wrong tool for the job, it's just not worth tearing a dust boot to save $6.
I think your culprit is in this picture. If you look at the right side, the wear sensor is at the end of the red wire. Looks to me like the right side pad is worn just thin enough that the sensor is touching the rotor, which is what causes your light to go on. I'd just replace the rear pads and move on. This should be a cheap & easy DIY job: rear pads and a sensor.
We have a Rennlist sponsor who starts out very cheap on his parts, then gives another 10% off if you use the promo code RENNLIST.
www.warehouse33auto.com
Exactly. You will continue to get intermittent brake pad wear warning light until the sensor is completely worn down (the wire inside cut into two), then the warning will turn solid.
As-is that senor will need to be replaced.
You have a link for one that will work with our calipers for $6?
I'm all in up to $10
Just cut the wires by the sensor and twist/solder them together and tie the wire off. That will bypass the sensor
I'll start working on a GoFundMe page for you tonight.
But we know you already have
all
the sweet tools...Cuda said the Windstar is loaded **** carpet to roof with high-quality gear.
It takes the ****, replacing brake discs and pads on a 996 is no harder than any other car but guess what, they charge loads more, I get why the parts cost more as they are high performance but why more to fit them, luckily I can do my own work and brakes are so easy really like pads, remove two circlips, hammer out pins, prize Pistons back , remove pads, slide new pads in, refit pins and circlips, done , takes half hour, oh and the rotor had one retaining bolt , whack it with a hammer and it's off, really hard that!!
Because they can - and people will pay. If you start charging $200 for an oil change and the waiting room is just as full as it was when oil changes were $150, what's your incentive to keep costs low?
Oh, sh*t - I read your original post wrong. You said you're in for up to $10 for a pad spreader. Please paypal me your $10 at your earliest convenience so I can order up a $6 spreader for you.
On an obliquely-related note: "spreader" seems vaguely dirty, even though the term is completely benign in this context. Maybe this is a holdover from the farm, where we referred to last year's Sears catalog as the manure spreader.
I used to use a giant screwdriver and some Home Depot paint stir sticks, but then I bought a Porsche and got all uppity with my tools.
Or I ran out of stir sticks. Choose your own adventure.
Finally had a day off and was able to install the new pads! Went off without a hitch. Once I pulled the pads you could definitely see why the sensors were tripped.
I did. I just used a utility knife to get up under the disk and then used a small flathead screwdriver to peel the adhesive disk away.
I did unfortunately chip the pain on the caliper like an idiot. I'm probably the only one who will ever notice it though.
nice work KK. I just did my rear pads today after the light finally came on. $58 pads from Warehouse33 & a pair of $8 sensors
. Figure this is the best thread to throw em up one for any other newbies.
The 101 projects book/Pelican article was helpful
old left rear pad
am I a yakoff for reusing these rotors? I put a micrometer on it for scale.
left rear disk
right rear disk
old pad
^^^^
That looks like there is a little lip on the outer edge of the rotor which is normal with wear. It appears that you are measuring the lip, not the rotor surface.
Get a couple of big washers and use then to space beyond the lip and then measure the washers and subtract from the measurement you got to fined the actual rotor surface thickness
You also need to measure the entire rotor, not just 1 side
Forget measuring the rotors. (BTW, as JayG observed you are measuring the rotor wrong.)
The lip is close enough to 1mm that the rotors if not currently worn undersized will be long before the replacement pads need replacing again.
My advice is to replace the rotors along with the pads.
