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YOUR RESEARCHNeed Help! 944S vs. 996!
Reported or suspected cause
broken oil filler tube (supplied replacement by po)
Reported cause
No successful repair reported for this finding.
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Reported cause · Original poster
The only issue was a broken Oil Filler tube (supplied replacement by PO).
Leading evidence: 'broken oil filler tube (supplied replacement by po)' (1 discussions report identifying this cause; no attributable repair resolution). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'broken oil filler tube (supplied replacement by po)' (1 discussions; 1 report identifying it and 0 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Adjust every 15k miles and replacement every 30k' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Reported cause
They will be priced a lot lower then low mileage cars and at the same time be proven to be good cars that have stood the test of time and mileage and at the same time been used, which the lack thereof is pretty hard on a car.
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Suggestion
Timing belts need adjusting every 15k miles and replacement every 30k.
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Suggestion · Original poster
I had a PPI done with Chapman in Virginia and she turned out to be in a very clean condition.
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Suggestion
They did another month later and I got it very cheap, drove it to the tire store, put on new shoes, then did brakes, fluid changes, timing belt, all the things that the previous owner neglected.
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Reported cause
They will be priced a lot lower then low mileage cars and at the same time be proven to be good cars that have stood the test of time and mileage and at the same time been used, which the lack thereof is pretty hard on a car.
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63 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
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Generation: 20261026T190023Z · outcome-qualification-6. Deterministic extraction; no AI model inference. How we use sources
Hello All! I would like to apologize in advance if this is not an appropriate forum for this thread! This is my first post here though I have been reading posts on Rennlist for about 6 months. I greatly appreciate the effort that all the active members put to keep this community going!
General Introduction: I'm an automotive engineer, with not a lot of wrenching experience, but decent enough understanding and determination to commit to a car. I am not primarily concerned about the value of the car. I intend to keep it for long. I love 944s and 996s, more so cause they are just enough to empty my pockets. I am only interested in the coupes. I am looking to buy a DD with about 6000 mi of driving per year, with maybe one long trip of a 1000mi. I intend to do all service myself, even the IMS, RMS issue on the 996. I would like to gather advice from all the Porsche enthusiasts to help me purchase my first Porsche. My current thoughts are about $13-$14k on the car + $2-$3k reservoir for repairs. My primary concern is the cylinder scoring on the 996 as I am from the Mid-West. What would be the best car to buy in my situation considering that I am willing to spend about $3k more per year on maintenance? The big picture is to keep a mechanically sound car as long as it lasts.
Thank you for your time you all,
-AM
Cylinder scoring is just one issue you may or may not face. There are many things that can empty the pocket book. Either car you buy will require maintenance and repairs, but the 996 might be a hair more in that price range of $13k - it�s a bit low for this car. Either one is fine.
BTW, do you need rear seats? If not, I like an early Boxster S. They are mostly a 911, but a bit simpler and quite a bit cheaper, and they handle quite well.
FAR more valuable than any advice found online will be had if you go drive each model car you're contemplating. The 944 and 911 are wildly different cars.
I had a 944 turbo many years ago and a 911 now and you'd either want one or the other.
Front engine vs rear engine. 4cyl vs 6cyl. Big difference in performance. Big difference in cost of ownership. All that you an mull over AFTER you drive each.
Once you've done that, you'll be in a far better place to debate the merits of each.
Good luck and happy hunting.
You couldn't pay me enough to DD my 951.....you just get tired driving that car. The 996 on the other hand is just so nice and you are relaxed when you reach your destinations. I think your wants and your budget don't line up, but there is no doubt that I would go with a 996 over a 944. If you got a NA 944 I think you would be vastly disappointed in the power, and if you got a 944 turbo, you would want to spend $$$ to make it faster. They just don't have much power in the stock form. The 996 is perfect.
I�ve had both a 87 944s and two 996 coupes. They�re both okay in their own way, the 944 is nicely balanced and fun to drive, but the 996 is a completely different league of car in terms of power, handling, driving dynamics, and connectedness to the driving experience. Given the choice I�d pick a 996 every time.
I think your purchase budget may be on the low side, but if you can swing a little more up front, you can likely swing a decent example.
The best advice I can give you (and repeat from countless others) is to drive them both, get a pre purchase inspection, and buy the best example you can afford.
Thank you all! I will book test drives with these cars next week. I do need rear seats. For that added practicality and storage, just in case.
How much of a stretch would be needed in the budget for a 996? And how much stretch in for repairs? I do understand that each car is different and If I don't do a PPI, I may buy a lemon, but in general.
Also, what mileage range should I look for?
I have read to buy the newest model that I can afford with the lowest mileage, but if I do find a good example in higher 180k mi, would it be worth investing into?
Also, if I find a good example of a first model year car, would it worth investing into?
I want to be devoted to this car and want to slowly make up for all pending services by the PO. I certainly do not have the money to replace a blown engine, hence the concern.
Having read all posts, I'd strongly suggest a Boxster (98-2003 or so). Two trunks give it plenty of storage, rear seats in the 911 are pretty useless (my wife and I both drive cars that have no/useless rear seats and it works out) unless you have tiny people around. Boxster replacement engines can be had for abt 3k if bad things would happen and the cars can be picked up for under 10k in decent shape.
For a 996 factor in 5k for the first year (just to be safe).
Hope that helps.
I think you�ll get all kinds of opinions on mileage but in my mind the sweet spot for mileage is around 60k. They will be priced a lot lower then low mileage cars and at the same time be proven to be good cars that have stood the test of time and mileage and at the same time been used, which the lack thereof is pretty hard on a car. Don�t get me wrong, higher mileage cars are fine too, but you will need to factor in more $$ on the backside for replacement parts as higher mileage cars will need more things replaced. At 60k, you either spend more on a car that�s had all the needed wear items replaced at that mileage (which is significant) or buy one for a lot less that needs these repairs and do them yourself. Personally, I wouldn�t get into a 996 unless I had $20k to throw at it. Either all that up front for a car that needs nothing or $15k for the purchase of a needy car with $5k in the kitty to get it back to spec.
I do not mind paying 5k for the first year. I am prepared to have no life outside the garage. I just want to understand the economics to keep this beauty running, tight as a drum. Thank you so much for your input.
996 ftw
great cars for the money, likely easier to get parts for
more return should the situ arrive where it had to be sold
buy a running car, buy the best version you can get so you
drive
it and not work on it
there's a nice '99 coupe in the classifieds for 19USD in Canada
https://rennlist.com/forums/vehicle-...l-hardtop.html
looks up to date, on paper the only thing that appears to not been addressed
is the suspension
at 89k miles there will be plenty enough maintenance
I�ve owned my 2002 996 with 54K miles since August 2017 and I�ve been daily driving it.
I�ve spent very little on maintenance.
Maybe $70 on a control arm, under $650 on a windshield, and around $270 on oil and filters.
But ive spent a bunch on mods.
Repairs:
Windshield $633 (Safelite) Appointment scheduled for 10/6/17 rescheduled for 10/20 Rescheduled for 10/27
https://fixmyglass.safelite.com/FixM...teDetails.aspx
Control Arm $68
https://www.rockauto.com/en/partsear...um=99634105316
GBox 2nd gear popout detent
http://www.gboxweb.com/detent.html
Mods:
Appearance
Aspherical mirrors
https://www.suncoastparts.com/product/9X6AMS.html
Headlight Covers Andrew Kwon
[email removed]
https://rennlist.com/forums/parts-ma...-design-2.html
Tow Hook License Plate Bracket
http://www.rennline.com/Tow-Hook-Rec...1070.1080/2049
FunctionFirst Classic Shift ****
http://www.function-first.com/produc...sic-shift-****
Redline Shift Boot
https://www.redlinegoods.com/Carrera9904shiftboot.php
911 Emblem in black
https://www.suncoastparts.com/produc...92370170C.html
Engine Performance
GT3 throttle body
https://www.partsgeek.com/gbproducts...ad=47433965052
Ben�s plenum
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...-s-plenum.html
Fabspeed air intake
http://www.modbargains.com/Fabspeed-...rbo-Intake.htm
GT3 Intake Adapter
http://www.fabspeed.com/competition-...-body-adapter/
Fabspeed MaxFlo Exhaust
https://www.fabspeed.com/porsche-996...xhaust-system/
Exhaust Headers
Suspension Performance
Feal Coilover suspension
http://feal-suspension6.mybigcommerc...rsche-996-2wd/
Safety
Wheel Studs and nuts
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-ecs-part...01467ecs01kt7/
Skid plate
https://www.suncoastparts.com/product/99610798100.html
RSS Rollbar
http://www.sharkwerks.com/products.php?pid=187
KAP Fire Extinguisher Mount
https://kap.industries/product/porsc...guisher-mount/
Other
997 shifter
997 424 010 91
https://www.partsgeek.com/ss/?ssq=99...ifter+Assembly
Dash cam
http://www.thedashcamstore.com/black...ront-and-rear/
Rennline Cellphone Holder
http://www.rennline.com/ExactFit-Mag...tinfo/PM01.08/
In my view a 996 is not a good choice for anyone on a budget. If you are truly willing to spend $3,000 per year on maintenance (every year) and $15,000 up front, then you should be okay. Just take your time finding the right car. With $13k - $14k to spend you're looking at high mileage cars or very high mileage. Maintenance records will be important. I have spent over $15,000 in 3 years on my car getting it where I wanted it to be. But that included new wheels and tires, new suspension, new seats, lots of stuff. Also I have owned both a 944 and two 996s. The 996 is much faster. There really is no comparison between the two cars. The 944 will be much easier to work on the engine, much easier. If you do get a 944 spend extra on the turbo or a 944s.
Thank you so much for your input. I really am willing to spend $3k-$4k on maintenance every year. But what mileage in your opinion would be a no-no? I have come across a 169k mi example. He is asking $12.8k, which is well within my budget. If PPI confirms the good condition, and if the seller has good records, should I pull the trigger?
Seems like a lot of miles. Particularly if you plan to dd. Think of this way, a car with that many miles is gonna be more worn out than a car with half the mileage. Paint, interior, etc. would you rather own that over a car you have to cough up more for up front?
Obviously anything can happen with a used car, but I�m not factoring $3-4K per year with my car. I spent about $8k within the first 8mo to get the car back to spec. Aside from the unexpected, I�m good for a while. If you can�t wrench (which it sounds like you can) maybe have an emergency fund, but parts aren�t stupid expensive, so if something breaks, fix it. I don�t see this costing $3-4K per year unless your unlucky enough to obtain a problem child.
And thats the best advice I can give you. Don�t be in a rush, they made a bunch of 996s. Find one owned by someone who is knowledgeable and loves the car they are selling. You might pay a premium, but you�ll save in the long wrong. The more you know about the cat your buying, the less guesswork and random parts you�ll replace.
You can probably find a decent 1999 around your budget if you are a little patient. Mileage around 100k. The 99s have the advantage of the double row IMS bearing which has a low failure rate. As others have said, there will be expenses beyond the initial purchase price. My car matches your scenario. Following my purchase, I had to replace the alternator, motor mounts, change the oil, and a few other things. About a $1000 of "have to" items. I spent a few thousand on elective items in my first year of ownership. I will also be doing a engine out major in a couple of months including IMS Solution, RMS, AOS, chain guides, etc to the tune of several thousand dollars doing the labor myself.
I have never owned a 944 so I really can't compare them. I do know the 996 is a fun car to drive. I have no intention of ever selling it.
I highly recommend getting a PPI when you find your car. It is cheap up front insurance, costing a few hundred dollars and potentially saving you many thousands.
I spend 3 months looking and finally found and purchased a 2002 996 4s. I started looking for a c2 and there are plenty of them all over craigslist well under $20k, but the cars under $15k are not the best.
I say increase your initial budget a bit, I had to, and you should be able to find a nice C2.
Once you have the car, if you stick to only repairs or required mods you won�t kill your budget, but it be hard not to get caught up on the mod mood and that is a different discussions as you can see above.
I've had both cars, but it doesn't matter.
What will get you is some expensive repair that will put the car off the road. The reason is both cars have their ticking time bombs. The 944S Achilles' Heels are cam tensioner, timing belt, water pumps and exchangers, motor mounts, and a host of other little issues. The 996s have potential catastrophic engine issues, plus a lot of stupid things that go along with the increased use of electronics. Both cars are decades old and things degenerate. They will not be a good daily driver in Detroit. Get a Honda or a Hyundai first, then buy a Porsche as a toy.
The real problem when buying cars like these is not having deep enough pockets. My advice is this. If the car you buy catastrophically dies tomorrow and you can't walk away from it without serious financial loss, get another car.
The smart buyer pays cash out of
disposable
income and has enough of a reservoir of funds to take anything that an old used car could throw at them and not impact their financial wellbeing or even disturb their night's sleep.
I have owned sports cars since leaving high school and can tell you from personal experience that you will have a better life if you work on financial security first. Earn, save, and invest. Then when your coffers are secure, buy your toys and be happy.
If either of my Porsches explode today I will be upset, but it will have no other impact on our financial lives.
Lastly, the ticking time bombs are not the only thing to worry about. Normal maintenance is going to be expensive. Tires are not cheap and they wear much faster than your dad's car. I average $1,000 a year on tires alone. Mobil One is not cheap. The 996 uses 10 quarts for each oil change and you should do that twice a year in Detroit. Brakes are more expensive. Every normal little wear item on these vehicles will be more expensive than other normal cars. You will be surprised how it adds up.
That being said, Porsche ownership is not as bad as owing an aircraft, but think of it along those lines.
I agree with all of the comments however there are two things I would consider in your decision:
1) Any of my non 911 Porsche buddies all long for a 911
2) The 996 will be much better from a safety persoective with all of its airbags.
Marv is right. But I only agree if �Buy a Hyundai or Honda first� means buy used - like 3+ years or older.
My Porsche ownership over the 10 years owning them has been cheaper than if I had purchased a new X, where X is any brand new car. Depreciation is actually the biggest cost of vehicles (not to mention finance charges from loans), so really financially smart people get an �old� Asian car, not a new one.
�My Porsche 911 was 1/2 the cost of your minivan� is not a stretch.
Just read through this thread and have two comments:
1. Budget
It seems to me the main issue on budget here is not annual maintenance costs but initial purchase costs. I've been shopping for 996s, and for around $19k the OP can get a sub-100k-mile 996 that doesn't immediately need $5k of work. You can buy a 996 for $14k, but there's no way you can be sure you won't immediately need to drop $5k on it. So I think the OP needs to feel OK about spending at least $18k up front. Otherwise he shouldn't buy a 996 right now.
2. Car
And this is why I would say if you don't want to save for a while longer but get a car now, then either get a 944, which will cost MUCH less up front, or if you want a flat-6 with the engine behind you, get a Boxster. But here I will also echo what others have said: the 944 and the 996 are totally different beasts behind the wheel. Both great, but nothing at all alike.
Thank you all for your inputs! My workplace would be less than a mile away, so a broken car would not cripple me. The only issue is the initial investment. I certainly will make my purchase when I can invest more in the car upfront. I really appreciate all the valuable advice. Thanks!
-AM
Hello all!
I found one 996 with 80k on the clock for about my budget. I'm working on stretching it. The vehicle skipped 60k service and has some issues flagged by PPI last year. The seller, who has had it for 5 years, says the car is in perfect shape to be a DD. History indicates a frontal collision, from a previous owner, with airbag deployment that seller confirms. He claims to have driven the vehicle for 10k with nothing but oil changes. The PPI is attached. Please assist me with your valuable advice. I greatly appreciate your inputs.
-AM
You've got lots of work ahead of you with that car. Even parts alone you should expect to spend a couple of thousand $$ to replace/fix all the stuff noted in the PPI. If you aren't doing the work yourself, little inexpensive things like the valve cover reseal (x2) are lots of labor which adds up fast. Then you will want to address the stuff that isn't listed and keeps you awake at night (IMSB, RMS while you're in there, maybe a clutch, since the labor is the costly part, etc.). The general advice around here seems to be spend more up front to get a better one.
The PPI is dated July 2017, so its almost a year old. You may want to get a new one. Assuming the car is in the same condition and nothing has been repaired, I would still consider this one. It is an early build (May 1998), which is a plus, and none of the items in the PPI would be a deal breaker for me. The suspension will be the most expensive item at about 3k to refresh. It is worn out, which is not unexpected in a 20 year old car. The rubber bushings are shot. The accident damage would not be a big deal if it is going to be your daily driver, provided it was properly repaired. The PPI did note a stray wire up front that would make me take a close look at the work that was done.
The bottom line is that you need to do enough due diligence to make yourself comfortable that you are not buying someone else's problem. Buying a 20 year old car is always a little bit of a crap shoot.
Be prepared to spend at least 5k on this one after you buy it. The good news is that you don't have to spend all that money immediately.
For starters the PPI itself is horrible. The level of detail sucks. But at the very minimum it does indicate the car needed thousands of dollars in work 10 months ago. If you can get this one for $15k, it still might be a good car with some additional funds invested. You would be wise to have your own PPI performed by a Porsche expert you have chosen. Also have a sales agreement IN WRITING that is contingent upon an acceptable PPI if you are concerned about paying for the PPI and the seller selling the car to another party.
Thank you so much for your input! I am waiting for another car that was owned by a long time PCA member. I will soon post it here if everything checks out. I appreciate all the help!
-AM
I don�t agree with all the pessimism in terms of annual repair costs that we will see on a 996. I bought one three weeks ago after combing through cars.com, Craigslist and Autotrader for about three weeks, looking at every
99-2004 996
in the country.
I found a 2000 with 88,000 miles that had been maintained by a Porsche Dealer in Newport Beach until 2003, and then for 15 years by a German mechanic with a PhD, who did everything the car needed including IMS and RMS, water pump, etc. etc. The owner had two Ferraris and this Porsche as his daily driver.
The car had had new leather seats, all new carpet, brand new 19 wheels and Conti Extreme tires, all new brakes, the paint looked great, it had been garaged since the beginning, and basically babied. The car looked like it was 5 years old and felt smooth, rattle free, and refined. All the others felt 15+ years old in one way or another.
I paid $18,000, spent $1600 for a beautiful new top with a glass window even though the original top was in great shape other than a plastic window that needed to be replaced.
I dont expect to spend $5,000 per year on this car. I drove five others and they were all rough and showed different degrees of wear and tear that worried me. The best one I turned down was beautiful but the PPI came up with $5,000 in leaks and mounts that needed addressing and it didn�t have the IMD done. The guy wanted $18,000 and would not budge.
You can find a 996 that was well cared for and not abused. You just have to get lucky.
And have the cash in hand at that moment.
Woah! That's a beautiful Porsche! I certainly have learned that patience will serve me well. I will take my time to look all around the country for the best 911 my money can buy. Thank you so much for your input. I appreciate it.
-Abhishek
My pleasure. Honestly, I wanted a Silver one with black leather interior more, but this one was too nice to pass up. I didn�t want to wait any longer for the right one to become available and this black one had such a great story behind her that I jumped on it.
If I grow weary of maintaining a black car I can always sell it and find another one. Time will tell.
MBH911 - awesome purchase but you found a unicorn. Not may 996s around for under $20k with this history
"I found a 2000 with 88,000 miles that had been maintained by a Porsche Dealer in Newport Beach until 2003, and then for 15 years by a German mechanic with a PhD, who did everything the car needed including IMS and RMS, water pump, etc. etc. The owner had two Ferraris and this Porsche as his daily driver.?"
Most are like the 5 others you drove (83% of your small sample size) which do need thousands in deferred maintenance, even the "second best" one. You are certainly correct that when a fully documented and fully maintained vehicle comes around for under $20k it sells fast to the first buyer with cash. Enjoy!
You bought a beautiful car!
The point of all the pessimism is to be prepared for the worst.
There really is no way to know absolutely what your car will cost over the years, particularly a car that is nearly 20 years old. It's simply prudent to have deep enough pockets so that a bad day doesn't become a miserable ownership experience.
Maintenance costs with these cars seem to be more luck thank anything. It's great if hasn't cost you anything. Mine cost an average $500 per month for the 1st two years of ownership and others have echoed something similar. The oldest of these are nearing 20 years old, you're going to start replacing stuff just due to time. They say there's nothing more expensive than cheap German car.
Worst case, be prepared to walk away with getting back $5 - $7K for your roller. Bore scoring is not the only thing that can go wrong with these cars. Not likely, but be sure you have a contingency plan - you said this is your DD.
Pricey stuff you should be prepared to address year 1 or 2 (may not happen, wouldn't be surprised if did) - cost these parts to get an idea of what it would cost: IMS, RMS, water pump, coolant tank, AOS, suspension, catalytic converters, suspension (at least shocks and bushings, potentially random other stuff) and add tires, brakes, clutch / flywheel if necessary.
$3K a year might do if you buy a high mileage driver that's been taken care of. But you should have reserves to absorb major snag if this is your DD. Realistically, engine rebuilds for most of these cars do not make financial sense - i.e. roller scenario.
Good luck, these cars are awesome for the money and entry price is low. But keep it real.
.
Cute (pessimistic) reply. But I knew in advance I was going to pay for a new top to be installed, and the $1600 would included servicing the mechanical parts of the convertible.
Look at it this way. You get much more enjoyment out of your ride if you are prepared for the hard knocks.
I've owned sports cars for more than 40 years and have some experience with the financial disappointments. Having a car sit for long periods or sold off at a significant loss because you overreached is a bitter pill that I wish no one to swallow.
I've seen it all the time. I spotted a low mileage '87 944S sitting on a BMW dealer's lot for months. I test drove it and it was horrible. It looked nice, but severely forsaken. It had three different makes of tires on it! Obviously, the previous owner couldn't afford to keep it up and it became a nightmare, finally dumping it on the dealer.
I told the dealer when you are sick of it sitting on the lot to call me. They did another month later and I got it very cheap, drove it to the tire store, put on new shoes, then did brakes, fluid changes, timing belt, all the things that the previous owner neglected. Turned out to be a fine daily driver for years, but I had the cash reserves to make it right and keep it going. I've seen a lot of neglected Porsches in my day.
Your beautiful example is a sample size of one. Not everyone loses, but expecting the worse can leave you without the major disappointments.
Let me tell you a story...I've been search and study for a year. Just bought a roller ($4K 02 coupe) that the PO bought 4 years ago for $17K and spent another $17K over the course of his ownership on all the preventative items mentioned above + some unexpected things like alt, ignition switch, suspension, window regulator and other little things that pop up in-expectantly. Then one day the car lost power, chk eng light came on and he had towed home. He tried to start it again (big mistake that probably added another $3K in collateral damage) and that was it, he's done.
Now I own it knowing that the car (body/chassis) has been loved and cared for and will get a rebuilt motor that should last me a long time. I hope to be all in for under $20K.
Documentation with good service history is key. Be ready with cash in hand to jump one the right one when it comes along. Form me this was the best option as now I know exactly what I have.
Lol, debating the unknown. There is no absolute here. The only facts are, these cars were $70-100k new in the late 90's early 2000's and are now almost two decades old. Parts will fail and need to be replaced. Depending on how many, how often and whether or not you can do it yourself will dictate if you're dropping $500 or $5k per year to keep it on the road. Proper due diligence in finding the right one will certainly diminish the likelihood of unexpected exposure, but not alleviate it all together.
I for one can do most of the wrenching myself and choose to replace parts based on age/mileage not after failure. This makes the car pretty manageable and fairly reliable, but also keep an emergency fund on hand for all of the reasons stated above. If you can do the same: buy one, enjoy it often and worry about other things in your life.
WOW! As a former 951 owner I have to say that I really enjoyed driving mine whenever I could, and IMO the 944 turbo makes an
excellent
DD. Unfortunately reliability was a factor -- mine spent just as much time with the hood up as it did down. Granted, it was a 1986 and was plagued with a variety of early issues like brittle stainless exhaust manifolds, fiddly timing and counter-balance shaft belts and a host of other things. BUT, it was quiet, comfortable, relatively quick with 225HP (very brisk boosted acceleration), fuel efficient, near 50-50 transaxle weight distribution, totally neutral rail-like handling in excess of 150MPH and best of breed with widebody styling. I for one
never got tired of driving the 951
and would have one any day. As long as I could still have my 996, that is.
I've owned both. Both are fun cars. 944 is much lower on power but parts seem to be less expensive. Mine had over 180k miles on it when I sold. Timing belts need adjusting every 15k miles and replacement every 30k. Not a terrible job with proper tools. Can get a nice one for < $10k. 996 is much more car as far as power and luxury. You will spend more $s on maintenance, gas and tires. Some known issues with m96 motor, too. Most issues can be rectified with proper upgraded parts for basically trouble free running. One issue is there are more electronics that can fail on the 996. Both are great cars, but different animals for sure. You might look at a 968. Largest production 4 cylinder car and has ample power. A bit harder to find and priced closer to a good 996, but is a nice compromise between the 2. Something to think about.
Hello All!
Here's an update. After searching for about a month and a half, and after a very careful consideration, it is my pleasure to announce that I have finally joined the 911 ownership bandwagon! She is a Millenium Edition with an upgraded big IMS motor. I've had the pleasure of driving her from Virginia to Detroit, and boy was she spectacular! I had no need for the radio, she was singing all the way through! The PO is an absolute gentleman and has helped me through the deal a lot. I had a PPI done with Chapman in Virginia and she turned out to be in a very clean condition. The only issue was a broken Oil Filler tube (supplied replacement by PO). After a week of getting to know her, here are some pictures!