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Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHValve actuator solenoid
Reported or suspected cause
internal seals
Reported cause
No successful repair reported for this finding.
1
Identified cause
0
Suspected cause
0
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Reported cause
In my case it was the internal seals on the piston in the actuator that had disintegrated, causing sticky action.
Leading evidence: 'internal seals' (1 discussions report identifying this cause; no attributable repair resolution). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'internal seals' (1 discussions; 1 report identifying it and 0 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Check actuator' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
The solenoid can be tested by applying 12v to it and the pin will stick out 1/8" or so.
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Suspected cause
If you've been seeing any little bits of green rubber in your oil filter, I can almost guarantee your issue is the same as mine.
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Suggestion
Also a good reminder to others to check a new actuator before putting it on.
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Suggestion · Original poster
IF I did not find this out now, and installed back in the car, I would still have the problem code, and would be chasing my tail down some other path because I supposedly replaced the actuator with a new one.
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I have a 2001 996 Carrera 4S, with a code 1341. I see some conflicting information about what the part numbers are. Can someone help by posting the part number for the following;
1. Cam advance solenoid,
2. Cam advance actuator (bank 1)
Thanks
I just verified that is the correct diagram and parts. I plugged in my Durametric and found that after revving a few times, bank 1 cam angle would get stuck at 22 degrees while bank 2 drops back to -4 degree at idle. And the engine is running rough when that happens. My question is...
1. Is the oil solenoid on bank 1 failing
2. Is the tensioner failing to cause the stuck condition at advanced
3. Are both failing?
Parts are really expensive and no need to replace something that is not broken. Thanks,
You need to crack the cam cover in any case. The solenoid can be tested by applying 12v to it and the pin will stick out 1/8" or so. I have not heard of amy bench test available for the actuator. I think disassembling it may yield some clue. Maybe some seal is failing or breaking down causing it to get stuck.
Be careful of the tiny spring and plunger orientation. Has the engine always been like this?
You may find this thread useful:
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...cam-p1341.html
In my case it was the internal seals on the piston in the actuator that had disintegrated, causing sticky action.
I think I am having the same problem as you did. The electrical signals are fine because I can see the cam values change. Bank 1 stuck high after a few engine revs while bank 2 drops. So changing the actuator chain tensioner it is. I am going to take the engine out and do a few things too, an IMS update is planned.
If you've been seeing any little bits of green rubber in your oil filter, I can almost guarantee your issue is the same as mine. If not, then I'm not so sure, but the behavior sure seems similar.
Yes, little bits of green seal material was found in the oil filter housing last night when I drained the oil in preparation for an engine out... The culprit showed itself, finally.
Almost certainly that actuator is your issue then. How many miles on your engine? Mine was about 80k when it started acting up. I'm wondering how long until the passenger side bank fails in the same manner. There was no economy of scale for me to replace both at the same time since I didn't remove the engine, but since you're taking your engine out, you might consider doing both sides at once since it would only cost you the extra actuator (which of course is not cheap!) and a few gaskets. You should replace the spark plug tube O-rings, oil scavenge pump seals, cam shaft caps, etc while you're in there, but those are trivial compared to the cost of the actuator and the engine removal.
Update.
I got into the engine, bought a set of Baum tool for cam timing, removed the cam shafts, and removed the actuator on bank 1. After removing the solenoid, the plunger was stuck and only came out with the help of a pair of pliers. It's confirmed, the seal was all busted up and only a few rubber green pieces remained. Here is the bitch;
The $1000 dealer replacement actuator block came "previously opened" and repacked with 3m scotch tape. During fitting it into the chain, I removed the solenoid to have more room and ... there was no green seal on the plunger. The last **** hole you bought this actuator, stole the seal from it, repacked it with scotch tape and returned it to the dealer. Unreal. I understand that Porsche is making us buy a $1000 part to replace a $5 seal, but ... IF I did not find this out now, and installed back in the car, I would still have the problem code, and would be chasing my tail down some other path because I supposedly replaced the actuator with a new one. Rot in hell, thief.
Can you post pics of the seal? if it is a common metric O-ring size perhaps we can find a McMaster or something part that would fit, could help out a lot of folks who find the same problem.
Holy cow that is terrible. And I thought I was frustrated when I bought brand new brake calipers that had the wrong/missing pad hardware and the bleeder valves missing. I'm assuming that was the same thing, somebody buying an assembly, "harvesting" what they need from it, and then returning the "unused" part. Scumbags.
My old seal is in 100 pieces so that does not help. I will open up the next actuator and take a picture of the seal, as well as measure it. It look like green viton seal material.
Update.
I am going to post this here so others can learn from my effing experience.
I got 2 actuators from another dealer, and put them in the engine, and put the engine in the car. Fired it up today and it ran crappy. Hooked up the durametric and the computer is telling me that bank 1 is out of phase with bank 2 when the advance actuator kicks in. What that eff? I looked at the boxes the actuators came in and they sold me TWO of the same BANK 2 actuators while I need one left and one right. They are different part numbers.
Damn, they will order me another one, the right one, and this time I will put it in with the engine in the car. So if your actual cam variation waves looked out of phase like above, this is why.
Wow, what an odyssey! So sorry your going through this. Nothing more frustrating than doing the work right and having such trivial mistakes made by others screw you up.
But thanks for keeping us posted as it serves as a good reminder to 1. Never assume dealers know everything and make mistakes and 2. Always check the box (and its contents) twice before slapping on. Best of luck to you getting this squared.
the good news, if you can call it that, is bank 1 actuator can be done with engine in the car but the timing tool does not fit so you have to wing it. I don't see how bank 2 can be done with engine in the car, at all.
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