Is a visual or other inspection of LN Eng IMS Retrofit bearing possible?

Yeah, I know, the most over-done topic except maybe oil. I don't want to start a battle over which is better, worse, best, etc. Then again, I can't stop you if you want to talk about it... My question is (I hope) simple: is there any means to visually or mechanically check the health of an IMS bearing while the engine is out of the vehicle? I've got my engine on the bench, transmission removed, clutch off and have the LN tool kit to do a IMS replacement, but I don't see any point in doing a replacement if the bearing is fine. The bearing in the engine is an LN Engineering IMS Retrofit with a 2014 manufacturer code, and if just going by miles/years shouldn't need a replacement according to manufacturer recommendations. I need to pull the IMS cover to inspect the o-ring and reseal the bolt, so I will have it opened up. Can I visually inspect the condition of the *****, cage and races (under magnification or with a borescope), measure movement or runout or deflection with a dial gauge, etc? Is any other inspection procedure possible, if for nothing more than peace of mind?

Yes. I sent my old LNE IMS in and they gave me a report on it after they sent me a brand new one for my build. once it's been removed, it cannot be used again.

Just to clarify, I am not planning to remove the bearing from the intermediate shaft (if I can in any way avoid it), but I am planning to remove the IMS flange. This should not result in the destruction of anything, and will (should) expose the bearing, races and shaft.

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I think you're about half way through the life of the LN bearing, you may want to just err on the side of caution and replace the whole thing.

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oh, in that case, no, there isn't really a way to do all that.

I believe the bearing is open to the outside. Lock down the engine per the installation instructions and remove the cover. If its sealed you should be able to remove the seal, inspect, an reinstall.

Thanks all. I'll lock it down this weekend, pull the cover and see what it reveals. At that point, I can make a call whether to pull the bearing and replace it or to risk it until the next transmission drop. I'll share what I see, if it is in the least bit interesting.

If the IMS Bearing is extracted, it must not be re- installed. Pulling the bearing from the inner race (the only way to extract it) will point load the outer and inner races with the contact points where the ***** are located. This will dent the races, and create increased wear at a rapid rate. If an IMS bearing is ever extracted, that bearing must be thrown in the scrap pile, and should never be entered back into service. I have experienced this first hand, and quantified it.

Jake, Thank you for the reply (and than you for your Technical Specifications book, it is awesome). I am super appreciative of your contributions to the community and the innovations you've brought to us. Thank you!! I am not planning to extract the bearing, unless I do so to replace it. I am planning to remove the outer flange, and see if I can do a visual inspection of the condition of the bearing (it is a LN Engineering IMS Retrofit with a date manufacture code of 2014). I will not under any circumstances extract and reinstall any IMS bearing. It makes perfect sense to me that extraction would cause damage to the bearing. If it comes out, it will be replaced.

If you plan to keep the car, what a wonderful opportunity to upgrade to the fit & forget (IMSB anxiety) Solution. If you try to sell with an IMSB approaching the end of it's Service Life ....just a thought

Update: after locking the engine at TDC and locking the camshafts, I removed the two rear tensioners, center nut and the flange bolts, then carefully removed the flange. (Please note that I didn't pull the bearing or put any force on it) The bearing rotates freely and smoothly, there is zero play, and everything looks undamaged good on a visual inspection. I don't know what else to look for, but it seems to be in great shape. Now the big question, do I replace it, or do I just button it back up and deal with it the next time I have it apart. It seems like there is contingent that suggests just replacing it, but it's a substantial cost to me. I can imagine people saying "it's a lot cheaper than a new engine". There is a big part of me that doesn't want to replace a perfectly serviceable part. I'm not looking for an answer, just sharing progress. On a practical note - assuming that I do reinstall it, does anyone know the dimensions and material for the o-ring used on the LN Engineering bearing replacement shaft? And what kind of "micro-encapsulation" compound is used on the flange bolts (it doesn't look like any thread locker products that I have)?

I spoke with tech suport at LN, they're sending me some small o-rings and new microencapsulated bolts. I'll also be replacing the large round flange seal while I'm there.

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Use some gasoline as a solvent to wash away the oil in the bearing and then let it dry and examine it very closely with an inspection optic like a magnifying glass with a strong light. There should be no pitting or damage on the bearings or race. You'll only be able to examine the outside a little, its not perfect but if you see any damage or pits replace. You will need to wash the oil away to do this hence the gas, when done squirt oil on the bearing to make sure there is no dry running on first startup.