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Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHAdvice appreciated- removing rotor. Why is it always the last screw/bolt?
Leading reported evidence
Use stud extractor
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
I use a stud extractor to grab onto the nub and remove it:
Advice appreciated- removing rotor. Why is it always the last screw/bolt?
Frequently discussed work
Clean hardware
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Suggestion · Original poster
Throw the car up and change out the drivers side, clean all the hardware with brass brush, lube up what's needed, put new caliper bolts in (I heard somewhere you are to change them-I dunno, for like 8$ I didn't wanna risk it).
Advice appreciated- removing rotor. Why is it always the last screw/bolt?
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Leading evidence: 'Use stud extractor' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Clean hardware' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Suggestion · Original poster
Throw the car up and change out the drivers side, clean all the hardware with brass brush, lube up what's needed, put new caliper bolts in (I heard somewhere you are to change them-I dunno, for like 8$ I didn't wanna risk it).
Advice appreciated- removing rotor. Why is it always the last screw/bolt?
Recommend left-hand-twist drill bits
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Suggestion
If you end up drilling it out, I recommend left-hand-twist drill bits for extraction.
Advice appreciated- removing rotor. Why is it always the last screw/bolt?
Replace brake pads/rotors easy peasy right
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Suggestion · Original poster
I'm changing my brake pads/rotors easy peasy right.
Advice appreciated- removing rotor. Why is it always the last screw/bolt?
Replace rotor, don't bother
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Suggestion
If you're going to replace the rotor, don't bother using an easy-out/helicoil - just chuck up a 3/8" carbide bit and drill the top off that sucker.
Advice appreciated- removing rotor. Why is it always the last screw/bolt?
Frequently discussed actions (9)
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Clean hardware
No successful repair reported for this finding.
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0
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1
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Discussions that contain suggestions
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Suggestion · Original poster
Throw the car up and change out the drivers side, clean all the hardware with brass brush, lube up what's needed, put new caliper bolts in (I heard somewhere you are to change them-I dunno, for like 8$ I didn't wanna risk it).
Advice appreciated- removing rotor. Why is it always the last screw/bolt?
Coverage and how to read this overview
Counts describe captured discussions, not unique people or a diagnosis. Author identities are not reliably stored. Exact duplicate evidence is counted once across matching discussions; one discussion counts at most once per action/state. Multiple repairs reported together remain a combination. Suggestions and failed attempts do not establish a fix. Matches cover whole discussions and can include related faults, model variants and incomplete threads.
16 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
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Outcome without a verified action link
I had to use an easy out on mine but it worked great.
Howdy
I'm changing my brake pads/rotors easy peasy right. Throw the car up and change out the drivers side, clean all the hardware with brass brush, lube up what's needed, put new caliper bolts in (I heard somewhere you are to change them-I dunno, for like 8$ I didn't wanna risk it).
Move to the right side and what the ****
one of the screws (the last one ) does not want to budge. I drenched it in PB blast, sprayed more and more . Let it sit overnight , still no luck. Tried using heat and still no luck. And I'm afraid it started to round out. What do you guys recommend? I haven't tried that hammer/screw turner tool, I can go purchase one but don't want to if it won't do much good? I've never had expiriance with those?
Worst case scenario - how can I get this rotor out? Any help out be appreciated?
Btw -is there any bad effect of leaving the car up overnight ? It's only supported on 1 side by a jack. - I have jack stand right underneath in case of an emergency , I just was not too sure if it was ok to rest the weight on the LCA, -and thought it be a quick 1 hour job -I know the car is not going to fall but will it "warp" the chassis is I leave it up supported only on 1 side?
Yeah, those screws will strip like they are made out of butter. That impact screwdriver is definitely the way to go, it very cleanly broke them loose for me.
Yep. I had the same problem. Used this one with success.
http://www.harborfreight.com/impact-...ase-37530.html
If you end up drilling it out, I recommend left-hand-twist drill bits for extraction. They work great.
http://www.harborfreight.com/catalog...eft+hand+drill
I have had to drill out several of these - before I started using an impact driver to remove them.
Since then, I have never had to drill one out. Took me far too long to learn that lesson.
If you're going to replace the rotor, don't bother using an easy-out/helicoil - just chuck up a 3/8" carbide bit and drill the top off that sucker. The stripped-out screw head plus the bevel in the rotor do a fine job of keeping the bit centered, and if you use a broad enough bit, there will be enough of the screw body left to grab it with your tool of choice and back it out. I use a stud extractor to grab onto the nub and remove it:
If you're reusing the rotor, a bit more discretion is advisable.
I've had success using a punch and hammer. Place the punch at an angle as far out from the center to leave some screw material. Used this method a few times. Also don't use PB Blaster. Get Kroil.
That's the problem. It won't roll if I can't get this damn rotor changed to put the wheel back on.
NEVER!
Well thanks guys for all the info and advice. I ended up swinging by Good ol' Harbor Freight and picked up a impact screwdriver as mentioned.
I'll be damed- broke the bastard screw loose out in 3 seconds. Thanks guys!
I've led a pretty fortunate life in which I've never had to go further than PB Blast overnight to remove a bolt/nut! Drilling out a stripped screw is not something I want to learn on my 996, no matter how much of a POS it is.
Thanks guys!
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