2001 911 996 brake pads and rotors what brand

street use only What is the most bang for the dollar brand should i buy pads and rotors I had to pull the trigger and I went with Textar pads and Sebring Rotors I hope I won't be too disappointed thanks all

I used ate rotors - cheaper than Sebro etc at the time - no issues. Textar pads are close to stock (if not the same) - check pelican , fcp and rock auto for prices

Quotes source post: 14412591

I might be selling complete set of textar , they have about 3000 miles on them , will try to take some pics soon for you David

Using Textar rotors and Akebono pads. Really got tired of the massive black smudge all over the wheels from standard pads and am very happy with braking performance, consistency and no mess.

Anyone try these? ~$55 each is pretty good. https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/por...an-40543048500

We offer a complete set of four Textar drilled rotors and Textar pads for $435 to your door, send us a PM if you would like a formal quote!

Quotes source post: 14412591

Meyle rotors and Textar pads will suit you just fine for the street and you can replace all 4 of each for about $400-500.

Does Akebono make pads for the 996 4s? I have looked and I think I found rears but no fronts.. I am looking for a low dust pad and I loved the akebono on my supercharged e46 (once they are broken in)..

Yes according to Pelican they do. You can try Jason at Warehouse 33 too, he's usually good for this type of thing and gives us a Rennlist Discount.

NYoutftr , thanks for the info but I am from Minnesota and bought this car in LA California and I leave this coming Sunday and driving it back and it needs a brake job I'm kinda under the gun and I ordered Textar pads and Sebro rotors, thank you

Thanks for the great response. Here's my story I live in Minnesota and bought a 2001 Carrera in Los Angeles. I am flying out Sunday August 27th and driving back Route 66, but before I take it down the road it needs Rotors and Pads. I have rented a garage complete with tools with a hoist for $25 per hour. Question I am a decent wrench but I'm getting a little older, I am thinking 6 hours to do all four wheels any idea what you all think I can get this done in how many hours? Look forward to your estimate and I am really looking forward to the drive back home

Quotes source post: 14420949

How bad are the pads and rotors? A 2000-mile highway trip is barely going to use the brakes, so if they are not literally worn down to the backing plates I don't see a reason to change them until you get home. Even if they're well below the legal thickness limit, they'll still stop the car fine, and then you can fix them up before getting the car inspected and registered in MN. You just risk opening up a can of worms if you suffer a part failure while doing the job remotely. What happens if you go to remove a caliper mounting bolt and it snaps, or the threads in the upright pull out? Now you're hosed and you have to wait days for expensive special-order parts. What if the rotor mounting screws are seized in place and you don't have the tools to extract or drill them out? Just something to consider. If the car is drivable now and safe, I'd drive it home and then screw with it at your leisure. If everything goes well, your 6 hours will be more than enough. With a lift and good tools a brake job should take half that. I'm just thinking of what happens if something goes wrong.

Quotes source post: 14420988

This is correct. Be prepared for damnable rotor set screws seized. And get new caliper bolts to go with the project. They are considered one time use although many re-use them. But if one is seized and breaks? That will take some extraction time but if you have new ones to go in, not so bad. Good luck.

Quotes source post: 14421110

You just never know what you'll find. The first time I took a caliper off, I found the previous person had cross-threaded one bolt and just cranked the f*ck out of it to get it to tighten down, I guess figuring "well, I'm never going to replace the brakes again, so this only needs to go back together once". It was jammed in so tight that the first socket I used immediately snapped. I finally got it out with another socket and horrific use of an impact wrench, but in the process of removing it, it totally wrecked the threads in the upright. The only way to properly fix it was to remove the whole upright and install a timesert. Which was not a big deal when I was at home and had other cars to drive to work and time to wait on parts in the mail, but if I'd been on the road somewhere it would have been a total disaster. It was 100% safe to drive before I started messing with it, though, since that bolt was not going anywhere. In contrast I once drove a car home from a race track with one of the pads worn entirely down to the backing plate after the last bit of friction material evaporated during my last session. It was fine, it just made a nasty grinding noise on stops, but it was time for new pads and rotors anyway, so I didn't really care about what I was doing to the face of the rotor. That was about a 300 mile trip and frankly you really only need to use the brakes a handful of times if you're driving proactively. No problem!

Quotes source post: 14421110

Am I the only one that doesn't bother to use the set-screw? Though my car has wheel studs, not bolts...

Quotes source post: 14421179

That's fine, but even if you don't want to use them yourself, you can pretty much count on having to remove the old ones during a rotor replacement. It's highly unlikely that the previous owner took them out.

Quotes source post: 14421179

Studs? Are you insane? Read up here https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...one-wheel.html You are probably not the only one not using the rotor set screws, however, I like my jobs done and complete, neat and tidy, just like the Porsche engineers designed it. Each to his own

Wow what some sage advice. I thought easy -easy but never think of the dark side! I will weigh this very smartly thank you I am hoping for the best. Route 66 awaits

Quotes source post: 14421179

The rotor set screw is to help align the hub and rotor during installation of the caliper. To keep the lug holes aligned for the lug studs. It clearly is not structural, like holding the rotor onto the car. It would shear like butter.

Quotes source post: 14415822

Made in China.

Quotes source post: 14422987

First, you are going to have a great time. I just did this in April, although my trip was California to NJ. Only got one ticket, but not from lack of trying! I used Roadtrippers.com to plan my trip (where to eat, where to stop based on mileage, etc.) and it saved a lot of driving around aimlessly, but we weren't locked into anything. As for the brakes, I just did these on my 2000. They are remarkably easy, I think I got done in 3 hours and had only done one other brake job. I would also worry about getting stuck, but I would imagine these rent-a-lift places would have some staff to help you if you get stuck. Get an impact hammer for the set screws and they are a piece of cake. Porsche recommends new caliper bolts every brake job, it is important to note that the new style caliper bolts are a Torx (T55) and the old ones are Allen key. I had to buy both kinds of sockets. Other than that, it's a super easy, regular brake job. The hardest part for me was figuring out how to unplug the pad sensors from the car. There is a junction on the strut with a hinged door. Pop this door open with a screwdriver, and the plug for the sensor is exposed. Re-routing the sensors through all the plastic clips is another fiddly job, but I like this stuff to be installed as intended. There are a ton of videos on YouTube. Here's one: You Tube Good luck!

Thanks for the roadtrippers.com suggestion. Am jumping over to it this morning. I will try to dodge the speed traps from the old smokies but they like these little foreign sports cars because they are just itching to get the guy driving them at speeds that are a touch over limits. But I will drop this out there ,,, if a car is designed to go fast and it's safe who's getting hurt? Like walking on a race horse and never let the thing run as they are bred to do. Those are just 1 horsepower what are 3.4l 300 hundredt hp ?

Quotes source post: 14431979

We got stopped in Oklahoma, not necessarily because of the speed we were going, but because a Range Rover was drafting us, and the sheriffs thought that was suspicious. Apparently, meth transporters use a transport car and a "decoy" car, so us and this Range Rover looked like that. As you can imagine, it was more than just the usual traffic stop, with 4 sherriffs cars, a search of our trunk and interior, etc. SOME FUN! Anyway, good luck! We had a blast. We stopped in Flagstaff, I highly recommend it, and also had fun in Little Rock, although I don't know if you are going that far east.

Thanks again I'll behave in OKlahoma

Quotes source post: 14421139

well you were prophetic as I am cruising through the brake job. URDreamgarage.com was perfect the right tools on site. It took me 7 hours 3 hours of it on passenger front . DKraig you were right it had a cross threaded caliper bolt which took me 2 hours to get out. Luckily i didn't snap the bolt or the spindle and luckily we had a tap and die set, we were able to rethread and redo the threads on the spindle. So with brakes done we left LA and about 50 minutes into the trip home I started to experience front end shimmy and pulled into a Goodyear and had all the wheels balanced. I also will have to replace bushings in the front suspension. I do have a carry over problem even though I replaced all 4 wear sensors and I got a brake wear light on. Checking by eye it looked like all pads were thick and not really worn i rechecked the sensors and were in their slots and I thought one was a little loose and pressed it back in, the light went out but on the trip home it would go out and return on several times. So now home I will try to find out which one is faulty. I do think all the shimmy and feeling every crack on the road it just seemed that it shouldn't jar my hands and shoulders felt every one of them. So I got to go through all the suspension. All in all I was rather proud of myself. I have good brakes and now can do the rest of the punch list.

Quotes source post: 14455303

Be sure to re-check the torque on that bolt after a few miles. If you had to run a tap in there and remove any material you may have significantly weakened the threads in the hub carrier, so that bolt may no longer tighten to the necessary torque without stripping the remaining material. If it can't be torqued securely a TimeSert can fix it without having to replace the hub carrier. I'd just make it a practice to click all 8 caliper mounting bolts with a torque wrench anytime you have the wheels off to make sure none are coming loose over time.

Ok I have returned from my west coast trip back to Minnesota with new rotors and Textar pads and new sensors. The brake wear light will come on I don't see any premature wear on anything. It seemed that the front passenger sensor was not seated right , but I pushed it in for a better fit. I started the car light was out but came back on within a few minutes of driving. How can I check the sensors one at a time to see if one or more are defective? What can I do short of buying another new sensor and exchange one by one. Or can there be another problem that would cause the brake wear light come on. The pads all look nice and thick like they were new. I hate this light if nothing is really wrong but it is just uncertain what might be wrong. Any help will be met with much appreciation

Quotes source post: 14468195

How rigorous are you about checking over your car? Like how often do you have the wheels off, and/or look carefully at the brakes? The reason I ask is that if you check things a lot manually, probably the easiest thing to do is just bypass this whole system. If you just cut off the old sensors, save the connectors, and solder the wires together on each one creating a short circuit, you will never see a warning light again. This is what I've done on my car since I track it and am constantly checking brake wear anyway with my eyeballs, I don't need a light telling me to look. If, on the other hand, you want to "set it and forget it", you'll have to inspect each sensor and get them all working. They are just a wire loop that gets broken once they rub against the rotor and wear through; so you could use a multimeter to check continuity of each one and then replace any that show an open circuit. If they all show good continuity and you are still getting a warning light, then there is an issue somewhere else, perhaps in the wiring farther up the chain.

Quotes source post: 14468258

An added note; by using the old sensors/connectors and shorting them out, rather than shorting out the wiring above the connector, this is completely reversible; if the next owner wants sensors back on the car, they can buy some and re-install them in minutes.

Yes I check the car every day but I can't see the inside pad very well but I will take tires off if I think something isn't right. Yesterday driving on the freeway, I got flagged down by a guy behind me and pulled off the exit and so did he,and told me there was smoke coming from my rear end. I looked and didn't see any problem then it dawned on me that I sprayed tire shine on and overspray did get on the rotors so I'm not surprised that there was smoke. The rear rotors were hot but not red hot. I also have a slight valve cover leak so there could have been some drips on the exhaust. With the brake wear light on it just drives me crazy so I might take your advice and short them out. When checking continuity does the ignition have to be on or car running? Forgive my rookie but where do I put the leads in checking with the multi meter. I am not good when it comes to electrical DKraig you have been on point through my whole experience driving it home 2300 miles along Route 66 then turned north at Alberquerke New Mexico sorry I can't spell alberquerkie Went through Colorado to stock up on some edibles for an old 70's return to my high school years

Quotes source post: 14469598

If you unplug the sensor and and look at its connector (the sensor side, NOT the side coming from the car), there are just 2 pins in it. Measure the continuity or resistance between those 2 pins with a multimeter. Continuity (near-zero resistance) means the sensor is good. Lack of continuity (infinite resistance) means the sensor is damaged, or has been consumed by wearing the pads down too thin, and scraping the sensor against the rotor, and it will need to be replaced.

We have added our Textar happy meal to our website, don't forget to use the coupon code in our signature for 10% off, flat rate shipping is $6.50 in the USA https://rennpart.com/product/brake-rotor-pad-set/