20 captured repliesDiscussion pagination complete · Source accounts, not a confirmed diagnosis
THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHABS Troubleshooting
Leading reported evidence
Check abs fault codes
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
Reported fixes
0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
Discussions
Read evidence and context
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Leading evidence: 'Check abs fault codes' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'tires giving out since it was my first time' (1 discussions; 0 report identifying it and 1 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Check abs fault codes' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
Source reports, not a diagnosis or a success probability. Counts refer to discussions and can overlap.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that suspect a cause
1
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Suspected cause · Original poster
I initially thought the problem was my tires giving out since it was my first time on racing slicks and they had 20+ heat cycles on them.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that contain suggestions
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Suggestion
Check the brake pedal switch - potentially cheap solution to a potentially expensive issue.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that contain suggestions
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Suggestion
Since I read that your wiring harness for the front lights got torn up, I was going to suggest checking the grounding points around there.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that contain suggestions
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Suggestion
I would go to the module that each wheel sensor is wired to, place car on jacks and check the output of the wheel sensor at the module, should get about 1 volt AC when rotating the wheels, you will need a wiring diagram to know which wires are to each sensor, if you find one that does not put out, go to the connector at the wheel and check output there, if none, change the sensor, if snesor is ok , do a continuity check of the harness back to the module.
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Suggestion
I would go to the module that each wheel sensor is wired to, place car on jacks and check the output of the wheel sensor at the module, should get about 1 volt AC when rotating the wheels, you will need a wiring diagram to know which wires are to each sensor, if you find one that does not put out, go to the connector at the wheel and check output there, if none, change the sensor, if snesor is ok , do a continuity check of the harness back to the module.
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Suggestion
I would go to the module that each wheel sensor is wired to, place car on jacks and check the output of the wheel sensor at the module, should get about 1 volt AC when rotating the wheels, you will need a wiring diagram to know which wires are to each sensor, if you find one that does not put out, go to the connector at the wheel and check output there, if none, change the sensor, if snesor is ok , do a continuity check of the harness back to the module.
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Suggestion
I would go to the module that each wheel sensor is wired to, place car on jacks and check the output of the wheel sensor at the module, should get about 1 volt AC when rotating the wheels, you will need a wiring diagram to know which wires are to each sensor, if you find one that does not put out, go to the connector at the wheel and check output there, if none, change the sensor, if snesor is ok , do a continuity check of the harness back to the module.
Counts describe captured discussions, not unique people or a diagnosis. Author identities are not reliably stored. Exact duplicate evidence is counted once across matching discussions; one discussion counts at most once per action/state. Multiple repairs reported together remain a combination. Suggestions and failed attempts do not establish a fix. Matches cover whole discussions and can include related faults, model variants and incomplete threads.
20 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
0 evidence records excluded for query context · 0 excluded by outcome qualification · 0 adjusted by outcome qualification.
2 acknowledgements have no verified action link; they do not establish a repair result.
ABS went out which made for an interesting day at the track yesterday. ABS light is on and front left tire locks up at 50% braking. I've bled the front brakes to try and get it braking more evenly and have pulled the wheel sensors and cleaned them to make sure that wasn't the issue.
Any recommendations on next steps to troubleshoot?
No ABS controller fault codes? I assume Durametric is capable of querying the ABS control module for these?
If possible you might try swapping wheel speed sensors from side to side to see if the problem follows the sensor of course.
Absent a mecnhanical problem: a pinched brake line to that locking wheel; a bad wheel speed sensor; the ABS control module has to be suspect.
Is Durametric capable of performing a system/functional check out of the ABS module? If so this would be a good next step. If not then one needs access to a Porsche diagnostics computer.
Yes, Durametric communicates with the ABS module.
Dumb question: Wheel spins freely when the car's off the ground?
I'd...hm. Use Durametric activations to try to activate the ABS pump and see if it's actually functional.
Check the brake pedal switch - potentially cheap solution to a potentially expensive issue.
Aside from what has been mentioned, make sure all your brake lights are working. I've heard of some problems with the ABS/PSM system when the brake lights are not working correctly.
Ok, I'll take a look this afternoon. Durametric has an ABS/PSM 5.3 module that appears to be communicating. That's where I checked for the ABS Fault Codes.
This is almost identical to my first time with this car on track when I had the ABS sensor and the pad wear plugs reversed. Luckily this time I didn't brake the subframe when I went off track. I'll try swapping the sensors around first.
I would go to the module that each wheel sensor is wired to, place car on jacks and check the output of the wheel sensor at the module, should get about 1 volt AC when rotating the wheels, you will need a wiring diagram to know which wires are to each sensor, if you find one that does not put out, go to the connector at the wheel and check output there, if none, change the sensor, if snesor is ok , do a continuity check of the harness back to the module.
Continuity to wheel well sensors is good. Voltage from sensors is good. Going to order a salvage ABS unit but hopeful somebody has more ideas on things to check.
The sensors have been unplugged a few times but never taken out of the wheel. Nothing else has been touched. One thing that did happen is the headlight harness came loose and got chewed up by the wheel. So I unplugged and pulled the harnesses for both sides. Seems like that was the same day but I can't remember for sure.
Dammit. Replacing the ABS controller didn't fix it. I'll try the brake switch but the brake lights are working just fine. Any other ideas? Last two track days of the year are this weekend.
Actually, you are spot on. What I've learned from driving without it has been awesome. My only issue is that the left front is locking up well before the right front. If I don't solve the ABS issue today I will go with new pads and fresh brake fluid (SRF) and hope this evens them out for the weekend.
Fixed it! The ABS return pump uses the same ground as the headlights. After a session, I discovered that one of the headlight wiring looms had gotten chewed up by the front wheel. So I disconnected both harnesses at the X/1 and X/2 connectors since it appeared they only fed the headlights and air temp sensor. I didn't see the ABS light come on because of my AIM dash. I initially thought the problem was my tires giving out since it was my first time on racing slicks and they had 20+ heat cycles on them. So I didn't make the cause/effect connection.
Well, darn it, you beat me to it. Since I read that your wiring harness for the front lights got torn up, I was going to suggest checking the grounding points around there. Makes sense the speed sensors would be grounded somewhere around there. Good for you! Hope you have fun this weekend.
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