My first 911- suspension set up questions

I recently just sold on this forum a E36 M3 race car built for GTS that I build myself. I loved the car and it was a blast to drive but I was ready to get something I could enjoy more than 3-5 times a year. I have always wanted a 911 so i started shopping around. I knew the car would definitely see a lot of track time as well as be a weekend toy. I am going to enjoy the car as is for the next few weeks and then park it for the winter. Over the winter I will be going through the entire car. Safety, suspension, and a little bit of engine work.... The day I bought the car I picked up these forge star wheels with Michelin pilot super sport tires. Both practically new with a few hundred miles on them. I also instantly did the Gundo hack on the mufflers and love it. Next I bought a set of JRZ dampers and just got them back from being rebuilt. I am going with a 680lb rear and 620lb front spring both with helper springs. I will be doing a custom roll bar, Sparco Evo seats and Scroth 6 point harnesses. I am going to drop the engine and trans out, clean it up and fix any oil leaks. Only see 2 both on a sensor on each head. I will replace the air/oil separator. I am still not sure if i am going to both with the IMS. It has the dual row from the factory already and from all my reading I am willing to take my chances. I want to run H&R sway bars, adjustable front and rear drop links, replace front tie rod ends, all 4 lower control arms, and an adjustable rear toe link. Now I have some suspension set up questions.... As for rear camber, I have seen people go about this two ways, GT3 lower control arms with shims, or adjustable upper control arms. Is there any benefit of doing it either way? Right now I am leaning way more towards stock lower arms and adjustable uppers. Brakes... new OEM rotors, but what pads? considering i will drive it on the street but will be driven very hard on the track. Also I will upgrade to stainless lines and high temp fluid.

Congrats. I love the car and yes, you got a helluva a deal. Also sounds like you bought Trendys JRZs I'm guessing? I think they are the RS1s which have had some reliability issues on heavily tracked cars. So just keep an eye on them. As for rear camber, adjustable rear toe links will get you to -2.5 or better. Adjustable uppers are good and GT3 LCAs are good. But they are incremental improvements. Front camber can be a little tougher. I definitely recommend the GT3 LCAs (or equivalent) for the front. I can get -3.7 with shims but really need adjustable top hats to get to mid 4's. But that's on a dedicated track car. For my DD/DE car, I had pretty good luck with -1.8 up front and -2.5 in the back with just the adjustable rear toe links.

They are those RS1s. I'll keep an eye on then and plan on having them rebuild every 2 years or so. I am I to them for less than half what they are new. They are miles better than anything else I could have gotten for 2k or less. I really don't want to go too crazy with camber. I don't want to be replacing tires [email removed] couple of months if I decide to drive the car to work here and there.

Then I wouldn't worry about control arms at this point. Adjustable ear toe links are all you need to help compensate for the lower ride height. And FYI, my last time I took my DD to the track, I had 0 camber front and 1.5 in the rear. The only thing that wasn't stock were brake pads, fluid and a set of NT01s. And it was crazy fun. The looser suspension combined with the r-comp tires made it very easy to manage the rear with both the brake and the throttle. And the RS1s were a really good deal. The reason I knew about them was because I almost bought them, a couple of times.

If you're interested, I might be selling the GT3 coilovers from my '03.

How much for the knuckles and brakes to go with them?

Mr Slakker, Installing B-8 Bilsteins with H&R springs and sway bars on 1999 C-2 which I'm using for as many track events I can fit over the coming year. Ran five different track events this past summer completely stock and had a ball. Car is not a daily driver. My concern is alignment, from what I've been treading is I should be looking at about -1.5 on frt and somewhere around -2.0 at the rear. Will I be able to get there using stock strut mounts and will I need adjustable rear toe links to get the recommended toe adjustment in the rear? Recommendations from anyone using this setup would be greatly appreciated. On the fence about using adjustable camber plates up front.

So the official answer for camber is you can only really tell how much you need by having someone check your tire temps immediately after coming off the track with a Pyrometer. Now that that's out of the way, I think your numbers sound like a good start. Depending on how much the new springs lower you car, you should be able to get pretty close to your targets stock. And I don't think you would get much gain out of adjustable camber plates at this point so it's just a matter if the rear toe links are required. If you can get a good alignment for around $80-100, I would see what you can get without them and how it feels on the track. FYI, the Firestone around here offers lifetime alignment for $180 and let's me hang out with the tech while he does it. I've already had my track car in there for alignment 5 times. Also, looking back, the best money I've spent this year for the track was unquestionably the 4 day Grand Prix course at Bondurants. That's where I learned to control the rear end with the brake/throttle and that is where the magic of the 911 is. Second most important is track pads and 3rd is a good set of r-comp tires. My stock 996 DD with DTC-70 pads and NT-01 tires is an absolute blast to throw around the track even though it's about 9 seconds slower than my track car.

How are your DTC-70 pads on a street car? I ran those on my M3 race car and it always took a lap or so for them to really come up to temp and be comfortable braking hard with them.

There is definitely no issue braking on the street when cold. They will squeal though. But I've found that once they get bedded in pretty good it's a tolerable amount for me when I'm too lazy to swap my street pads back on.