29 captured repliesDiscussion pagination complete · Source accounts, not a confirmed diagnosis
THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHAC not working
Reported or suspected cause
fresh air damper
Reported cause
No successful repair reported for this finding.
1
Identified cause
0
Suspected cause
0
Reported fixes
Read evidence and context
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Discussions that report identifying a cause
1
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Reported cause
On other cars I have had, it was the fresh air damper, so when you put it in recirc, it took a suction from the cabin and air started blowing.
Leading evidence: 'fresh air damper' (1 discussions report identifying this cause; no attributable repair resolution). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'fresh air damper' (1 discussions; 1 report identifying it and 0 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Adjust blower' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Reported cause
In the end, the culprit was a loose connection in the relay support frame.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
Replaced the battery and still no 12v at the connector.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
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Suggestion · Original poster
He replied that the ABS control module wasn't communicating, therefore triggering all the lights to go off.After replacing the battery they reset it again, still no result.
Counts describe captured discussions, not unique people or a diagnosis. Author identities are not reliably stored. Exact duplicate evidence is counted once across matching discussions; one discussion counts at most once per action/state. Multiple repairs reported together remain a combination. Suggestions and failed attempts do not establish a fix. Matches cover whole discussions and can include related faults, model variants and incomplete threads.
29 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
0 evidence records excluded for query context · 0 excluded by outcome qualification · 0 adjusted by outcome qualification.
3 acknowledgements have no verified action link; they do not establish a repair result.
Outcome without a verified action link
Finally got it to spin freely, hooked power to it and it worked fine.
Hi All,
The AC in my 2001 C2 won't blow any air whatsoever.
Do not know how to go about troubleshooting this, but when I have the unit on full blast you can't hear a string of air coming through, as well as in any other modes, no air comes out at all.
Any idea what this could be?
Thanks for your time!
Step one: Put it in recirc mode, does it blow air then? Can you hear the blower working, but it's just not getting air out? If so, it's a damper that's the issue. On other cars I have had, it was the fresh air damper, so when you put it in recirc, it took a suction from the cabin and air started blowing.
Need more symptoms.
Does the segmented fan speed indicator on the display change on the climate control module when you adjust the blower?
If it does not, this is similar to what my HVAC controls did when the electrical part of the ignition switch needed to be replaced.
Try rocking the key back and forth slightly - maybe 1/8" - while the car is running. You may find that wiggling it a little will cause the AC module to start working normally again. This would be proof positive that you need to replace the switch.
I freaked out the first time this happened - plus it was 90deg+ in the middle of August... The switch is easier to diagnose - if low beams dont come on and AC doesnt come on - it's likely the ignition switch from my experience. Try turning it gently back to the left against the stop. Its probably stuck just past that "normal position" closer to the start position.
I had a similar problem a few years ago. Blower switch would increase/decrease the segments on the display, but absolutely no air blowing. Everything else was OK, so I ruled out the ignition switch. I removed the blower motor thinking to replace it, but when I manually spun it, it seemed to be frozen up. Finally got it to spin freely, hooked power to it and it worked fine. Reinstalled it and haven't had an issue since.
I owe you a drink!
How did you know that? I pulled fuse D6 out (it was a 15 amp or 20 I forget) and threw in a 30amp fuse and bam it worked!
I was scared I would be in for a costly repair, I can't thank you enough.
A similar thing happened to me with my Audi A5
-Car wouldn't turn off without 10+ tries on the fob
-Loss of dynamic steering and adaptive headlights
-TPMS malfunction
-18 check engine codes
-Loss of speedometer (both digital and gauge)
-Odometer was frozen at milage before the Christmas tree lit up
-Loss of backup cam function
-Loss of ABS
-Parking break malfunction
and a few more i'm probably forgetting.
The battery was low, wouldn't hold a steady charge. But I don't believe that was entirely the problem.
Took the car to Audi for the VAGCOM solution, or so I thought.
Battery needed replacement, I already knew this so they went ahead and changed it at the very end.
Before doing so, they cleared the codes and the Christmas tree came back every time...service manager asked me if the car was in an accident. Never was, so I asked why?
He replied that the ABS control module wasn't communicating, therefore triggering all the lights to go off.After replacing the battery they reset it again, still no result. Bummer!
So he quoted me $2,819.93 for the ABS module and labor. They never did one before and they had to order the part from Germany (10+ days to arrive)
When I was paying for the battery I asked if they checked the fuses at all: "No, if it were a fuse your brakes wouldn't work" ...at that point I was to exhausted to even give him a response to his incompetence.
Came home and said "screw it, I'm taking a look at the fuses". Got my test light and checked out the fuse box and the horn fuse (10 AMP I believe) was blown. So, I took a new fuse, popped it in, and yep you guessed it, problem solved!
And I was thinking I had to spend $3k for a new computer! Meanwhile the culprit all along was a 5 cent fuse for the horn...how did this happen? We will never know.
It's bizarre how fuses can trigger problems that could entail costly repairs
Glad you got it sorted. I didn't know for sure but as the basic principle of diagnostic....always start with the simplest and obvious first so I went down chasing the power side first. It could very well have been the relay or a burnt motor or the fan resistor or a bad a/c control unit. You got off easy this time
A lot of times a fuse protects multiple circuits so when it blows, multiple circuits will be affected. Maybe that's what happened with your Audi.
I posted this elsewhere but this thread seems to be more on point...
The A/C Blower in my 2000 996 C4 has stopped working. It started a month or so back by working intermittently. After starting the car the blower would come on after a minute or so. That went on for a couple of weeks and then it stopped altogether, I read everything I could find and did the following:
Bench tested the blower -- ok
replaced the resistor -- worked initially but failed quickly
Checked the battery -- ok
Read about the ignition issue -- started wiggling the key between position 0 and start. That got it going although not consistently.
Replaced the ignition... still does not work.
Put a meter on the fan connector and started the car... slight jump in voltage (like 1 vDC)
Bench tested the blower motor again -- still good.
I really don't know where to go from here. Any help will be greatly appreciated...
The fan is controlled by a solid state transistor. Was this what you replaced?
https://www.oembimmerparts.com/Porsc...ShoppingEngine
Also, do you have Durametric? I think it can activate the a/c blower fan.
I replaced the fan regulator (see link)... sorry I misspoke on the resistor. I am thinking about sending the CCU to Module Master for a rebuild. Not sure what else to try. Maybe a new battery?
Spunds like you have eliminated a lot already. One check you can do is one of the pins of the fan (2 pins) connector should have 12v with key on engine off. Also, can you see when the blower is not running (and with a/c ON) whether the a/c compressor clutch is engaged? It shares the same power supplied by the ac heater relay so if the clutch also does not engage, your problem is the relay or upstream of it.
Replaced the battery and still no 12v at the connector. The compressor is engaged so that rules out the relay. Looks like it is narrowed down the the CCU. I am going to send it out for a rebuild. Is there anything else I can try before I do that?
When you measured the fan 2-pin connector, did you connect one of the probes to ground and the other probe to one of the 2 pins? If you did and still didn't see 12v in one of the 2-pins, your problem may not be the CCU itself.
The relay supplies 12v coming in at the bottom right when key ON engine OFF. the wire goes through pin 7 of plug X then it's connected to pin L1 of the fan socket.
So even if your CCU is bad, that wire should still have 12v. So if you don't get 12v on pin L1, you may have a break at plug X. Unfortunately I don't know where that plug X is.
If you measure the two pins L1 and L2, you may not get 12v because L2 does not provide ground (e.g., bad CCU). That's why one of the probes should be connected to ground when you measure L1.
I am guessing that this problem has to be related to a sensor or relay. I can get the fan to work completely properly (all controls) if I wiggle the key between the 0 position and the start position. Of course, that has cost me a starter Bendix (but hey, a small price eh?).
Once I get it working the fan will turn on for a few Key ON Engine OFF cycle but then it fails again.
At failure it throws off a HVAC 30 and 31 Durametric code -- (voltage owing to a relay??).
My question is which of these relays is the right one to check?
#18
http://workshop-manuals.com/porsche/...ion/locations/
You can swap it with #12 (foglight) for testing. The pink/grey relay in your second photo is the fuel pump relay so you don't want to touch that.
So, this one goes into the book!
Swapping relay 18 for the second time I accidentally left the key on. As I grabbed relay 18 the fan miraculously came alive! As I rocked it back and forth in the socket it came on and off. In the end, the culprit was a loose connection in the relay support frame.
After much brute force part replacement based trouble shooting it all came down to serendipity.
Now let's see -- 4 nights of crawling under the dash; replacing the regulator, key switch, battery... taking the fan out (several times) and ruining a starter. (a job still left to be addressed) I now have AC again just when the weather is cooling.
Now as to why the key wiggle intermittently had it working I leave that as a future topic for speculation.
Thanks to all contributors of this post! My 2000 cabriolet's blower suddenly failed to run intermittently. Was wondering if I need to spend a couple of hundred dollars to replace the blower motor. So I went through the Bentley manual and searched in this forum.
Finally I realised might be the blower resistor but I finally decided to check the D6 fuse and relay 18 first. D6 is good but i can't see the inside of relay 18. So I swapped relay 18 with 19 and the blower fan runs perfectly! Now it just costed me only 20 odd bucks to get a new relay and saves me going to the garage.
Cheers~~~
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