what should a PPI comprise?

I'm shopping for a 996/997, and I will get a PPI before purchasing as suggested in these forums... However, what exactly should be checked? IOW, what is an adequate PPI comprised of? Thanks.

A typical PPI will be similar to a used car dealership's "100 point inspection" - where lots of measurements will be taken such as paint depth, tire tread depth, brake pad and rotor material remaining, etc. If there are leaks they will note them and where they are coming from, if there is damage found it will be noted. Exterior and interior condition should be noted - some people use point systems (ex: 7/10 condition,) and some people simply say "good", "fair", "poor", etc. If things need to be replaced they will tell you - if things flat out don't work they should likewise tell you. Data such as paint depth, etc, can inform you whether a car has been in an accident that may be otherwise unreported on a carfax. (Carfax is not perfect, by any means.) Things like compression check, leak down check, used oil analysis, inspection of oil filter, etc... will be an extra cost. Really anything that requires a mechanic to turn a wrench expect that to be an extra cost. Generally PPI is arming you with extra data you will need to make an informed decision and rarely comes with a "final answer" like - yeah buy the car or no don't buy the car. If the car is really bad the mechanic may give you a head-shake and that is fair. But most mechanics I talk to don't like to get involved in the actual "opinion" part because it gets them in trouble. Most like to stick to hard data.

I think I know what you're facing. And, I can tell you I had nothing but problems with shops that were agreeing to do a PPI. The really, really critical stuff to have checked was never on the list of the PPI shop. "Oh, we don't do it that way". Or other statement. Most PPIs will be very heavy on the cosmetic checks: 'the rear tires have only 5/32 tread remaining and are wearing more on the inside'. Or notes on how a piece of trim on the interior is loose. All that is BS. Here's what I wanted done, and never found a shop: 1. Drain oil, take oil sample send to Blackstone. 2. Remove sump plate, inspect interior of engine, sump plate, and intake screen for particles. 3. Borescsope the inner cylinder liners. 4. Replace sump plate. 5. Connect Durametric, report all over-revs. 6. Inspect front bushings, and suspension components for looseness and wear. Everyone wants to focus on cosmetics during a PPI. That's not what I'm interested in getting. I finally did my own.

contact local PCA chapter and i'm sure they will have a list of recommended indy/dealerships that perform a good PPI. Its a great resource.

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That's a great list. But, I'm not letting a guy drop the pan and start scoping out my cylinders in my driveway. And I would also be against taking it to a local shop picked by interested party, if I had knowledge said shop is not familiar with model or l don't trust them. I might be open to interested parties compensating me for the oil/filter and doing it together.

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Yes and no. Local PCA advertises a few local indys I would personally stay away from. I don't take my car to dealership, but unless I had personal experience or knowledge of an Indy, I'd reluctantly have Porsche if available do the ppi. Yrmv.

I've had no problems taking a car I'm selling or having a car inspected by a shop if I'm interested. In fact if someone refused a PPI I would be walking away right then and there. Another thing shops can do is pull apart the filter to check for shavings in it.

I know I am late to the game but if your find a car ask the seller if they are willing to take it to an indie shop on your dime and have the shop do the Porsche CPO inspection. See attached (hopefully I did it right.

Have them check everything... I a few months back was looking at a not-so-perfect 997.1 C2S, and am SO glad I paid my tech $362 to do the PPI. He's a mad scientist and probably had 4 pages of extra notes on top of the usual checklist of stuff. The car would've been a LOT to get up to speed, so it's certainly worth it- example being, he let the A/C run for maybe an hour with the car on and found condensation/leaks into the cabin, something I'd never think to check! Being in TX, just that it comes on, is cold, and all the vents work properly.