6GT3 Tequipment Roll Bar and Seat Travel

Wanting to embrace the "Factory" theme, I installed a Factory Tequipment Factory roll bar....damn was that dumb. I had no idea that it would restrict rearward seat travel with my factory seats, as opposed to the GT3 Euro Seats (Available from $3,500 to???). I am going to my local fabricator next week to see if he can work his magic...I WANT MY FULL SEAT TRAVEL BACK! Both GMG and DASsport assure me that I will get full seat travel with their products. RSS told me that their bar would be no improvement If he can't it looks like there are three options: 1.) GMG WC Harness-Rollbar, $1,795 (Comes Powder coated) 2.) GMG TSR Harness-Rollbar, $2,395 (Comes Powder coated) 3.) DASsport bolt in roll bar, $1,695 (Bare Metal) Question, anyone experience my seat travel dilemma with the Tequipment bar? Also, anyone install the GMG of DASsport products?

The Agency Power roll bar has removable cross bars and attaches to the same pickup points as the Tequipment roll bar does (seat belt points). You can remove the center two bars (unbolt) from this bar when you need rear access, the reinstall them when you need them for a track day. Also, If you have a Bose subwoofer and want to keep it the Agency Power and the Tequipment are the only options.

I was unaware of these guys, in AZ, somewhat local to me. Having the ability to unbolt the cross bars, incredible feature. Do you have one of the bars? I will be sending a note to the factory re specs on the bar such as what's it made of, Seamless DOM mild steel tubing? Does it have Tig welded joints, Need 1.75" diameter, 0.120" wall thickness, or? Thanks for the heads up on this product.

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Diameter is 1.5" and TIG welded. Not sure on the wall thickness, maybe shoot them an email or call. I just ordered one a couple weeks ago, do not have it yet, should be here soon.

I have the same issue, does not bother me due to how I sit. Where mine gets caught is on the eyebolt for the lap harness. I have the full power seats, if I raise the base of the seat up, it can clear the eyebolt and I think I get full motion. If that is the only place you are getting caught, you could cut the eye bolt off and use a different solution for mounting your lap belt.

I would consider the BBi roll bar. This thing is a work of art, give you room to back seat and Bose sub compatible. I had the tequip bar and removed it after 2 weeks also, couldn't live with tight seat position. Big waste of time and effort. If I buy another it will be the BBi.

...a work of art. And it ties into the ear sock towers...decent viability to the rear as well. Regardless of the bar you select, remember, from time to time you are going to clean the rear window from the inside. I love the BBI, I also like the GMG RSR Harness bar, it too ties into the rear shock towers, and is in two (2) pieces connected with a clevis pin. This makes it easier to install and to remove. It is Chrom Moly, and Tig welded. It comes powder coated in satin black. I like the Agency-Power too, but wish the OD of the tubing were 1.75" rather than 1.5" Minimum Roll Bar Tubing Sizes: Over 1,500 lbs. Mild Steel l.75� x .120� Alloy Steel 1.625� x . 095�

Martin what's the obsession with the tubing diameter and wall thickness? Racing class requirement? I get that thicker and bigger is stronger but even the smallest available is bigger and stronger than a harness bar. I would think bolting to the seat belt pickup points would be the weakest link which is not allowed for racing but OK for DE. For me since I drive to and from the track I don't want to give up the subwoofer.

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Good question, "My obsession with the tubing diameter and wall thickness?." I just figure if I ever needed a roll bar, I'd like it to be as strong as possible, preferably made from Chrome Moly Tubing, and I have a preference for Tungsten Inert Gas (TIG) welding, a much finer and delicate welding process, the stuff of craftsmen. I agree, bolting the bar to the seat belt pickup point is the weakest link in the roll bar system. If you go upside down at a DE event, or racing event, you're still upside down. This may be the time where the strength of the bar comes into play I would think. The Agency-Power bar is attractive, inexpensive too..love the fact that the cross bars can be removed for street driving, don't love the 1.5" diameter of the bar...if it were a cage, this tubing would not be acceptable in PCA Club Racing. Id. needs to be 1.75". Also like the DASsport bar, a bit more expensive, the aft portion attaches to the upper strut mounts and the forward section to the seat belt anchors at the "B" pillars. It's TIG welded...I'd prefer it in Chrome Moly steel compared to "seamless DOM Mild Steel" tubing. The tubing is 1.75" in dia., with a 0.120 wall thickness, a good thing. The GMG RSR Harness Roll bar, the most expensive of the bunch, also with the aft portion attaching to the upper strut mounts and the forward section to the seat belt anchors at the "B" pillars. It's TIG welded from Chrome Moly steel, which involves more time to build compared to a bar made from AISI 1010 Carbon Steel used in the Agency-Power bar. It's a two (2) piece bar with a clevis joint tying the bar together. This feature makes it easier to install, put in part "A", follow up with Part "B". So as a result of your feedback, and that of other Rennlisters, I now know what is out there as an alternative to the Tequipment bar. Thanks to one and all.