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YOUR RESEARCHBuy AP droplinks at your own risk
Leading reported evidence
Use tarett engineering drop links and ar bars
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
I use the Tarett Engineering drop links and AR bars on our street 996 that we AX and on our Spec Boxster that I race W2W with.
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Suggestion · Original poster
After loosening up so many times I was not sure if they were properly adjusted for 0 preload so today I was taking my wheels off to set them up with 0 preload and loctite the length adjusting nut as well as install an extra nut to lock them together.
Leading evidence: 'Use tarett engineering drop links and ar bars' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Adjust nut as well as install an extra nut' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Suggestion · Original poster
After loosening up so many times I was not sure if they were properly adjusted for 0 preload so today I was taking my wheels off to set them up with 0 preload and loctite the length adjusting nut as well as install an extra nut to lock them together.
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Adjust nut as well as install an extra nut
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
Reported fixes
0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
Discussions
Read evidence and context
Discussions that contain suggestions
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Suggestion · Original poster
After loosening up so many times I was not sure if they were properly adjusted for 0 preload so today I was taking my wheels off to set them up with 0 preload and loctite the length adjusting nut as well as install an extra nut to lock them together.
Counts describe captured discussions, not unique people or a diagnosis. Author identities are not reliably stored. Exact duplicate evidence is counted once across matching discussions; one discussion counts at most once per action/state. Multiple repairs reported together remain a combination. Suggestions and failed attempts do not establish a fix. Matches cover whole discussions and can include related faults, model variants and incomplete threads.
12 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
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I should have listened to others. After having my front end sound like it's falling off because AP droplinks won't stay tight, removing my front wheels 10+ times over the last couple of months to tighten them . . . you guessed it, my right front droplink broke. What a waste of 200+ bucks. Having to jack the car up and removing and installing the wheels was more of a pain then losing the money.
Dan at Vivid (after this thread, I guess I won't be receiving any refund from AP/Vivid) was nice enough to send these overnight to be matched up to GT3 sways. They immediately started loosening up and had to be retightened weekly if not earlier. After loosening up so many times I was not sure if they were properly adjusted for 0 preload so today I was taking my wheels off to set them up with 0 preload and loctite the length adjusting nut as well as install an extra nut to lock them together.
That's when I found the broken droplink. Now I know why they were so quiet. The clunking I always got was on the right side, even tho both sides loosened up.
So buy at your own risk. Time to go buy real droplinks.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/7358392@N07/2744307357/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/7358392@N07/2745144708/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/7358392@N07/2744306271/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/7358392@N07/2744308023/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/7358392@N07/2744307659/
You guys think the broken link are due to metal fatigue, inferior material or is it binding?
If the body is good, try just buying new quality heim joints from somewhere like Pegasus. Or you can give me the broken links so I can use it for my other cars.
I have to say my loctite solved the loosening nut problem. Until the droplink snapped. Waste of hundreds of dollars. Why not stainless steel instead of aluminum? The bolts are even all rusted. AP is off my consideration list for anything in the future - anyone that buys them, has been formally warned.
Hi Ken,
Sorry to hear about your problems. The drop links lead a tough life, so good ones are a must.
I use the Tarett Engineering drop links and AR bars on our street 996 that we AX and on our Spec Boxster that I race W2W with. The materials are top notch and I have not had any problems with them coming loose or breaking even under extreme racing conditions.
http://www.tarett.com/items/996-997-products/list.htm
Thanks,
Bill P.
resurrecting an old one. Anyone else have issues with loose drop links? I have been striking out getting my Taretts to stay tight in the front right. I'll put loctite on them but am curious if other have had similar issues.
I was able to keep everything tight with a generous amount of blue loctite on the locknuts. It took a couple times of re-tightening before I bit the bullet, completely removed and dis-assembled the drop links, put blue loctite on every threaded area and reassembled/reinstalled them. I am going on 3 months with no clunks so I think I have it beat.
Update: Loctite is now on all link threads after I redid the drop link installation. Several weeks and around 600 miles later, no issues. The front end is tight & responsive with no rattles at lower speeds.
Happy camper here
note: this is with Tarretts, not AP
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