Backed over my jack stand and punctured my oil pan!

Now there�s 9 quarts of oil in my driveway, and none in my car. How screwed am I??

Assume you mean punctured your oil pan? Order a new one @ $160. Remove old one and inspect for damage to pickup/baffle area and pan sealing area. If none, replace pan using proper sealant. Use oil dry or kitty litter to get up loose oil. Then scrub driveway. Drive away happy. You aren't that screwed! You didn't drive the car with no oil in it right?

I don't think the 996 has an oil tank. Do you mean the oil pan? If you didn't drive the car long just drop the pan and replace. Lots of videos on it. Not really expensive. Just make sure you didn't damage anything else.

Thanks, Yeah, I meant oil pan. No, I turned the car right off. Looks like just the tiny corner of my jack stand pierced the pan. How hard is it to remove and replace the pan??

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Easy to remove - it's held on by something like 13 M6 bolts (which I think have an external torx head). They are easy to extract - not much more than hand tight. Standard reinstallation involves obtaining and applying the right silicone sealer, which I believe is Drei Bond type 1209 (but you should verify this). Because that procedure is slightly tricky, I decided to make a gasket (out of thin teflon sheet) which has worked well. If the damage is slight, you might want to consider having it repaired by a good welder.

your lucky you noticed that quickly or that could have been a mess but at least its easy and cheap to fix cleaning up the oil is the worst part

Buy a new pan. Not expensive and I would always have to worry about the weld fail while driving. It is what keeps all the oil in your engine!

I heard the crunch and knew right away I rolled over my jack stand. Turned the car right off, and watched all the oil pour out. Pretty scary! Sad part is I was going to do an oil change, but Pellican sent me the wrong oil filter (tiny short one, instead of the long refillI)! I'll look for a new one, hope I can get it done on jack stands!

Jack stands will give you plenty of room to do the oil pan. Just remember to take time to look for any other possible damage after pulling the old pan.

Remind me not to have you change my oil . I hope things work out, sounds like you did the right thing given the circumstances. In my younger days, I used to ride ATVs, and a guy with a brand new Bombardier poked a hole in the bottom of his engine case, and kept riding without realising it. I saw the aftermath, and it wasn’t pretty......

I really am a dumb-***. I put the car up on Rhino Ramps, and stuck my jack stand under there just in case. When I realized the filter was the wrong size, I was so pissed, I forgot about the jack stand being there. D'oh! Cleaning up all the oil is/will be the worst part!! I've yet to see a good tutorial on applying the sealer to prevent leaks (or a re-do) - is it easier than I am thinking?

found this using GOOGLE: PART 1: You Tube PART 2: You Tube PART 3: You Tube

Saw that video, but he has some kind of added gasket or metal shim, not your stock setup. I guess the sealer process is the same?

The good news is that a couple hundred bucks and a day and you'll be back on the road. The bad news is you'll have to put car up on jack stands. :-)

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Yup! When I saw the oil pouring out, I thought the worst - that I punctured the motor, or transmission case, etc! Glad it's just a $189 sump plate. I assume it's better to buy the OE Porsche plate, and not one of the cheaper alternatives.

If you are an agressive driver, look at the LN/FSI deep/baffled sumps. Otherwise, OE over an inexpensive aftermarket would be my cjoice. Not that much money to be saved.

I actually have a spare one up in my storage with baffles with a magnetic plug you can have for $100 shipped. I can probably get it out to your this week. its from a 2000 3.4. Sorry about your car....

I don't feel so bad now...I drained all my coolant into a container today that had a crack in it. Walked away and came back to all me tools and matt soaked in coolant

Pm me. I've got a used one.

To the OP, We have tons of good used sump plates. 75 bucks will buy one. You can use the videos that Jake has on youtube that are linked above to do the replacement. Its the same process, just without the sump extension.

One thing I would add would be to buy a couple of 1 1/2"-2" bolts (of same dia and threads as pan bolts), cut off the bolt heads and install one at each end of pan as alignment studs so you do not damage "displace" the thin bead (1.5 mm) of sealant on pan. Then remove these after installing a couple of the pan bolts. Also, buy an inch/lb torque wrench, the pan bolts only get torqued to 7 ft/lbs (84 in/lbs) and if you think your magnetic plug at 19 ft/lbs is not much, 7 ft/lbs is less than what your wrist can do with little effort. Over tightening these pan bolts can not only result in stripping but oil leaks even if the bolts don't break or strip. Just my two cents.

Good points about the guide screws. But, I was told just use two original bolts, holding the plate close enough to let the threads catch, by hand. Then, use those bolts as guides, tightening them by hand until the plate mates to the engine. Then, install the other 11 bolts.

Just use Raby's thin pinky smear technique and not worry about a bead and it getting distorted, it's not that difficult.

Yeah, smear and go!

FYI, This is a dated video. Jake no longer recommends Loctite 518 as the pan sealant. It works well and is anaerobic which is good, but he said they no longer use it because it is a nightmare to remove the pan after using this. Somewhere on this forum he pointed this out to me. Unfortunetley I used this video and used the 518. Haven't removed the pan since. But when I do I'll most likely be cursing Jake.

I used Loctite 5900 the last time I removed the sump pan, can not remember where I read it was a recommended alternative to their 518 or Drei Bond but have not leaked a drop. Hopefully this material will be easier to remove than the 518.

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Did the 5900 go on by spreading it thinly over the plate, like in Jake's old video? I ordered Drei Bond from Pellican, but FedEx says it will take another WEEK to get to me. Screw that! I can get 5900 delivered in 2 days.

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I did not use the thin spread technique, I used the recommended 1.5 mm (1/16") bead. I like this method so that if there are any small imperfections (deep scratches) in either of the two bond areas, I would have a better chance of getting a good seal. The 5900 material takes a bit of hand pressure to get out of the tube (with the small 1/16" cut at end) but you can set the tube of 5900 into hot/warm water for 30 minutes or so before applying it which helps with the application. I do still recommend using a couple of studs as guides so that you can use both hands to center the sump pan in stead of trying to hold the pan with one hand (a 1/2" away) while trying to start a couple of the fasteners with the other hand).

What size stud/screw do I need? I can hit Home Depot, assuming they have the size. You are probably right about it being a pita to hold the plat/baffles with one hand reliably. So a small 1/16th bead, in the center of the plate mating edge?

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I actually used 4 studs (1 at ea corner), the cost is nothing and a few minutes to cut off heads, as for the size, don't remember the dia/thread but just took one of my pan bolts to the hardware store and matched them up. The length was approx 2" (see pic) and after cutting off heads, used a file to round off the cut ends. Yes, just run the 1/16" bead down the center and to the inside of each fastener hole (I may of ran an additional 1/16" bead around outside of hole also but do not remember). I followed the recommended application which can be found on youtube,

Every time I see this thread I wonder if you also blew out your flip flop and stepped on a pop top. I can hear Jimmy Buffett sing it "backed over my jackstand, punctured my oil pan, parked my car in a messy garage"

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Ha! She's a real beauty, a German-made cutie, but now she's just sitting outside the garage!

Wasting away again in 911ville

Tryin to jack up the car, without slippin on oil...!

One thing I'll add to this thread is that in the video provided by Jake, I noticed that a oil sump used with the deep sump kit was the early non-guarded style sump. I recommend if you have this early style non-guarded sump that you upgrade to the later guarded sump. Or buy one of the aftermarket "skid plates". I have seen several cases of the exposed bolt heads have been caught by a curb and have damaged the engine case as the bolt was torn from the engine. I have not seen any instances of the damage extended to the case when the guarded sump is used. If you look at a picture of the early non-guarded sump compared to the later guarded sump, you can clearly see the difference in how the bolt heads are protected.

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Kitty liter or spray some degreaser (and wipe)around your jack points at the very least. Be careful!

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Yup, my new pan has the recessed bolt holes. I did notice the flat pan with bolts sticking out on Jake's video.

Talk about dodging a bullet!!Just missed the edge!! i used the smear method with Drei Bond, used the two stud method (glad I did - way easy to line it up that way). Big test comes tomorrow when I fill it with fresh oil. Fingers crossed it won�t leak! Thanks for all the help!

Update: No leaks, and the motor is so much smoother and quieter! Should have changed the oil sooner I guess. I put in close to 9 qts, yet my dash gauge shows less than half full?? Is there a reset process?

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No reset procedure. Car level and stone cold (first thing in the morning after sitting overnight). Check with the dipstick not the dash gauge. Mine has a stock oil pan, spin on oil filter adapter....I put 10.25 quarts in during an oil change and it is right on the top line of the dipstick....and the dash gauge shows one bar below the top.

Thanks, guess I'll add until the dip stick reads middle level.

The car actually holds ~12 qts. on first, new rebuild, fill. Somewhere around there is a drain time vs. refill chart where 20 minutes =8.5 /8.7? qts.

I always let mine drain for 3-4 hours (ref to this post I placed on another thread) https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...l#post15107993 and end up refilling with between 9 & 10 qts.

Mine drained for a week, so I guess I'll be adding more tonight!

Also helps to drive slowly the last 1/2 mile to your overnite parking spot to allow the oil scavenge pumps to evacuate excess oil from the heads.