Headlights not coming on

I have a 2004 911. Headlights aren't coming on...neither low or high beams. When I pull the stalk on the column, the high beams will come on...but only if I pull toward the driver and hold it. If I push the stalk to engage the high-beams, they don't come on. I didn't check the fuses...figured that since I was getting power to the high-beam through the stalk, that the lamps were getting power. Other light functions are working through the headlight switch (tail lights, running lights). Before I run out and replace the headlight switch, does that sound like what the problem is? I've seen some posts about problems with the headlight switch...but would like to confirm if others had the same symptoms and what resolved it.

Follow-up question...if it is the headlight switch, is it worth an extra $100 to get the Porsche branded switch? Pelican has the Porsche one for $191 RockAuto has the Standard Motor Products branded one for $95

I'm sure somebody will chime in...but it sure sounds like it is your ignition switch....after you start the car it does not return to the "on" position and does not pick up the load reduction relay. Go out to the car, start it, see if the lights do not come on again, if so, move the key ever so little back towards off with the lights on and see if they come on, if they do, it's the switch. Same thing happens on Audi's.....tell me how I know: http://www.audipages.com/Tech_Articl...chreplace.html

get the Audi or VW part. Its the same and lower cost

One note about the switch is usually when it's bad you can play with it, turn off turn on, wiggle it and sometime see the headlights flicker in relation to the position of the switch. It definitely does sound like the switch is your issue though. Personally, I like genuine for this particular switch.

Sounds like the switch to me. I have an 04 C4S and had the same problem.

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Ditto - same problem on my 2004 C2. New switch fixed it.

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Sounds like we are talking about 2 different switches here: 1) the infamous ignition switch that causes all kinds of electrical gremlins, or 2) the headlight switch. I agree with Paul that the ignition switch is the likely culprit, but certainly wouldn't be surprised if it is the headlight switch. If you don't already have a spare ignition switch sitting in your glovebox, then I'd use this opportunity to go buy one or two of them. The expensive one is about $30 and the NAPA cheap ones are $12. It takes anywhere from 20 minutes to an hour to change. That switch is notorious for going bad, so even if it is not the culprit, then you've pre-emptively fixed a part that's going to go bad on you in the future anyway. Like I said, buy two of them and keep a spare in the glovebox because you never know when one is going to go out and strand you. I'd throw the tiny flat head screwdriver tip you'll need to change the switch in the box along with the spare switch so you'll have the tool you'll need to swap the switch. This bit of "be prepared" may very well save you from a huge hassle in the not-too-distant future.

I wiggled the ignition switch and no change. It seems to function properly and returns to "run" position after starting normally. I will pick up a spare in case it's ever needed. I tried wiggling the headlight switch too, but no change there. I'll replace the headlight switch and hopefully that does the trick.

Do yourself a favor....when the headlights don't come on, try other large loads, I am unsure what comes off the load reduction relay, but the AC compressor is one....it the AC doesn't come on, it's the ignition switch. I would definitely replace it based on all the issues reported here. Troubleshoot the headlight switch, does it operate a relay or controller? I know it does, but have never followed the wiring diagrams....troubleshoot it before you replace it.

Check the fuses. Also from another forum "I have never had anything else cause low beams not to come on, I would check the ignition switch next, it could have a fault circuit because it is designed to turn of power to the lights when the car cranks, if that is good you will have to start checking for power between components starting at the fuses and switch and moving down to the lights and see where the problem starts, also do the same with the ground. Read more: http://www.justanswer.com/porsche/5k...#ixzz3nFVUJ2Fo

Exact symptoms as mine. It's the Headlight switch. I found one from a wrecker on Ebay nearby for $75. GG

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So I've searched the forum but can't find any guidance on how to remove/replace the headlight switch on my '03 996........anyone have any instructions/directions/link to the procedure?

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Did you try Google? Search for "how to remove 996 headlight switch".

https://www.renntech.org/forums/topi...comment-281216 https://www.renntech.org/forums/tuto...h-in-the-dash/

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Thanks, much appreciated!

Not sure when the last time you had the light housings out, but maybe make sure they are locked all the way in place ensuring good connection.

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When I bought my 996, only the high beams worked on the passenger side, and none of the other bulbs. After some tinkering, I discovered that the tabs that hold the plug on the base that the headlight mounts on were broken. The plug on the back of the headlight assembly was not seating all the way into the plug on the base.

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There's no mention in this procedure or the Pelican version about first disconnecting the battery.......is this not an issue?

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This is a very good diagram of the various parts, however and this is true for the Pelican site also, once all the screws are removed, the dash/vent assy still doesn't come out easily. In fact you have to pull seriously hard on the assy before the built in catches give up and the assy comes forward with a loud crack. I tried for about a half hour looking for additional screws that would account for the fact that the assy didn't just "come out".......it requires some heavy heaving to the extent that when it finally gave in, I was sure something had broken, fortunately not......all the aforementioned is only true for my '03 of course and things might not need to be so heavy handed with other cars.

Ok, so I replaced my headlight switch today with the OEM replacement. Not inexpensive but then you own a Porsche so what else is new! I decided to take the old (original Porsche part) to pieces to try to find out why they fail. You have to go a little medieval on the thing, the outside metal shell being quite decently thick metal so you need to cut the locking tabs with a dremel and then bend them out, this allows the top to be removed but also to allow pressing the tabs back in place when reassembling . Inside is a collection of high quality contacts with brass and copper connections, all of which, depending on their function/circuit are activated with a complicated cam device operated by a central column which the user, you and I, use to operate the thing. All pretty clever stuff but what struck me, and I've been in electrical engineering of one sort or another all my working life (now retired), was the high quality of the various interior parts/contacts. Ok great, so what did I find out.......the various circuits are connected using a cam and points system, similar in operation and appearance to the old ignition points. Brass/copper arms with what appears to be a Tungsten contact on each one. These contacts being those operated by the cam I mentioned earlier. They are a little difficult to see and it seems impossible to remove them without damage, maybe not but I didn't want to risk break anything if it wasn't necessary. But, you can get a piece of emery cloth or old points file card in there to clean them. Time consuming etc, yes, but at $170 a piece for the OEM part, likely worth it. And even if you use one of the cheaper replacements I still think it worthwhile to keep the "failed" unit, take it apart and clean it up, ready for when the replacement packs up. I've no idea of course about the internal quality of the non-OEM part but I can say that the originals are well made, and worth keeping if possible. I find it difficult to believe that a $30 part replaces like for like in terms of build quality with the Porsche OEM $170 item (which I got from Pelican). Anyway, this is just me and how I think about things......thought one or two of you might be interested. Oh, one last thing.......if you take one apart, take some pic's before you remove any of the innerds as it's very clear they have to go back in with a very specific orientation.

I had the same issue. Removed the switch (which looked pristine) and sprayed a lot of electrical cleaner into every orifice and worked the switch through all permutations. Has worked perfectly ever since.