New purchase service items

So I've owned my 996.1 for a couple weeks and driving it fairly gently, feeling it out. It's time to get all the requisite maintenance things done. The car was generally well maintained (I don't have detailed service records), but buying any used car means a pretty thorough going over. I got my PPI done at the dealer but frankly I don't really trust them. In going to take my baby to Fischer Motors in Barrington, IL mostly due to the great reputation they have on this site. 101k and no record of a major service at 90k. Clutch and brakes done not long ago. So far my list of things to "do" is: - oil and filter - transmission fluid - spark plugs - brake fluid flush - check water pump (how can it be checked?) - coolant flush (guess this is a good idea) The drive belt probably needs replacing but I can do this myself. I can't do any "messy" work myself at the moment due to a really bad work area, but that should be resolved soon. Anything else that I should consider?

air and pollen filters, possibly coils when doing the plugs

Just replace the water pump with the Porsche pump with composite impeller to be safe. Also, replace the AOS and that will be two of the top 3 that can ruin your day.

Engine mounts? Cheap easy huge improvement in drive. I like Wevo many love RSS. Suspension components?

If you prefer to check the water pump rather than just replacing it: * Remove the serpentine belt and test to see if the pump pulley has any lateral play. If it wiggles at all, replace it. * Examine the pump shaft for evidence of dry coolant. If coolant is escaping, replace the pump. * Verify that it spins freely. It won't freewheel/coast like the AC since the impeller is immersed, but you should be able to tell whether it's turning smoothly. Apply some side load as you turn it - if it seems like there is play or if you get any interference when you're pulling it up toward the top of the engine (the direction the belt pulls it), replace the pump. Unless there is evidence that your stock motor mounts are failing, I'd leave that until you are more familiar with the car and decide you'd like to make a change. Same with suspension - check for broken/bent stuff, but leave it stock for now. Eyeball the brake pads and if you have a caliper, check the rotor thickness. If the car has drilled rotors, ensure that there are no cracks around the drill holes and especially that there are no cracks connecting holes. Jack up each corner and grip the tire (or opposite spokes) with both hands and try to wiggle it. This will help determine if you have any bearing play that might need attention. Also, check the tire wear for any abnormal wear. You may find that the rear tires are more worn on the inboard side than the outboard side depending on how the alignment is set. If the front tire on one side is wearing significantly differently than the tire on the opposite side (same for rears), you may have an alignment issue. If your mechanic allows it, ask if you can poke around the car for a while while it's on the lift so you can get an idea of the condition of the panels, brake scoops, fasteners, etc. that you don't otherwise have access to. Since it's an east coast car, I'd also eyeball the mufflers to see if you have any serious rust issues. Also because you live in a place where water sometimes falls from the sky: Check the drains to ensure they're not clogged. Many threads here and on Pelican. You mentioned the serpentine belt - look at the underside. If the ribs are cracked or broken, it's definitely time for a new belt. Check the engine air filter and the cabin air filter. If either one is dirty, order a replacement from Amazon or your favorite parts site - they're cheap online. Assuming it's a manual, check the shifter cable clips on the transmission. If the cables are not securely clipped in, clip them or if necessary zip-tie them. Incredibly cheap insurance against being stranded when your car suddenly refuses to shift normally. When you have a spare Saturday morning, take off the front bumper cover and clean the debris from between the AC condensers and the radiators (again, DIY's here and on Pelican, as well as YouTube). You will probably find a disgusting collection of stuff - I found a mummified bird in mine. While you have it off, re-route the manual front trunk release so you can reach it if you ever need to open the trunk using the cable. The one for the engine lid is usually behind the driver-side taillight - consider fishing that down lower and zip-tying it somewhere out of the way but easily accessible in case you ever need to pop the engine cover using the cable.

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Wow - thanks for the thorough write up! The mechanic recommended just a minimum of work. I'm about to move into a place with a garage so I'll be able to put her up on stands and go over thoroughly, and I'll follow some of these ideas at that time.