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YOUR RESEARCH996.1 run this oil?
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Run t6 in my rover disco ii v8 due
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I run T6 in my Rover Disco II V8 due to the flat tappet (read: old) GM/Buick design.
Leading evidence: 'Run t6 in my rover disco ii v8 due' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'best choice' (1 discussions; 0 report identifying it and 1 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Recommend 15-50' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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There are around 100 to choose from but Mobil 0w-40 is probably the best choice.
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I was recommended 15-50 for my 996, have used it for several years here in HOT Fl.
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Suggestion
Flat six and LN Engineering both recommend JG oil partly due to its higher ZDDP content.
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Suggestion
And a lot of off-road motorcycle guys have been using it for years in their bikes (high temps, lugging motor in the woods, but frequent oil changes).
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Suggestion · Original poster
Small update on this, I found the 2.5 gallons of rotella on walmart for $53 and free shipping so I ordered it and used it for an oil change on my wife's Benz turbo diesel.
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I'd be interested to know if anyone has run 15w-50 M1 for an extended period of time and then assessed the internal condition of the engine components, since it is not an approved oil.
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Was in autozone today and saw they have 2.5 gallons of shell rotella 5w40 synthetic for $60. Its diesel oil however, this would be convenient for me as I could use it for my benz turbo diesel and the 996, any negatives to running this? I'd change the oil every 5-6000 miles.
no additives that would harm the catalytic converter?
Diesel truck oil for your non-diesel sports car? Sound like a GREAT idea! i can't think of a single reason not to put the wrong oil in your car. I stopped using "engine oil" a long time ago and have been using extra virgin olive oil in my 996. 45 HP gain at the tail lights.
Probably not a good ideal. I'm new to these boards and looking for a 996/997 and already doing my homework on the best brands of oil, filters, etc. Look at the certifications met by the T6. I suspect they will be different that those required by your Porsche.
That said, T6 is an excellent oil for diesels. And a lot of off-road motorcycle guys have been using it for years in their bikes (high temps, lugging motor in the woods, but frequent oil changes). But the Porsche is probably not a good place to experiment.
By my faulty mental calculator thats $6/qt. You can get Mobil 1 from Wallyworld for about $23 for a five quart jug (at least the 0w40), and there's a Mobil 1 rebate for $12 on a jug. May be worth checking out.
It won't hurt anything. Many run it.
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-turb...otella-t6.html
Specs in this thread.
https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forum...Number=2243973
In the list of Porsche approved oils as 2012?
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsc...-oil-list.html
T6 carries the SAE SN or whatever the latest rating is. Main diff is that it carries ZDDP, which has been eliminated from most "auto" engine oils, which helps with anti-scuffing properties.
the SAE CK oil (Rotella) TBN has been reduce when it was CJ back in 2007 when big diesel were required to run catalyst exhaust systems, it will not harm the P-car emissions but I don't see anything with the right viscosity. great oil but known to be called Rosmella with the older diesel with open breather systems.
I've found mixing 50% Mobil 1 4T motorcycle formula with 50% T6 diesel formula to yield the best results. However, after changing to this mix my brakes started making a squeaking noise.
Just slather it all over the rotors, that should take care of the noise. If not, just throw the pads in a bucket of the mix over night. Wipe off any excess before reinstalling...this should do it
This is a popular oil for vintage car guys because it's about the only high zinc/ZDDP oil you can buy at most FLAPS. However I thought high ZDDP is not desirable on "modern" cars because it will damage the catalytic converter?
Info:
https://www.amsoil.com/newsstand/cla...ar-protection/
Some people were recommending this oil for 996 Turbos. My research into the oil found it has a high mineral oil content. Porsche calls for synthetic oils only in its engines. It is not even an approved oil for Porsche diesel engine and AFAIK it is not even approved for use with M-B diesels.
My advice is to run an approved oil in your Porsche. There are around 100 to choose from but Mobil 0w-40 is probably the best choice. If you live where it doesn't get that cold you can run 5w-50 (not a typo for 15w-50!) if you are afraid of the "40" weight in "0w-40". (0w-40 oil held up real well in both my Boxster and my Turbo in triple digit heat.)
If you want something in the "5w-40" class of oils there are a number of oils to choose from. I don't recall any specific ones off hand. Run by your Porsche dealer and get a printout the latest approved oils list. I get one of these lists every couple of years or so.
You might get lucky and find an approved oil that is also approved for use in your M-B. If not then my advice would be to run whatever oil M-B approves for its car and as I said above run an approved oil in your 996.
If you elect to run a non-approved oil you can use any criteria in picking the non approved oil you want to run. The Rotella jug is quite colorful. As good as any reason then to run it.
I run T6 in my Rover Disco II V8 due to the flat tappet (read: old) GM/Buick design. The ZDDP protects that engine, and it's an '03 so I would say catalytic converter concerns are generally unwarranted. T6 shouldn't hurt the 996 but without a specific, compelling reason I'd suggest sticking with M1 Full Synthetic 0W-40 for cooler climates and Castrol Full Synthetic Racing 5W-50 for warmer.
More ZDDP ain't necessarily better.
ZDDP was first added to oil to combat corrosion which affected copper/lead bearing metals. The amount of phosphorus was in the 0.03% range.
Then in the 1950s the appearance of high lift cams was accompanied by an increase of ZDDP to 0.08% to deal with scuffing early in the engine's break in. (When I rebuilt engines I used a special lubricant supplied by the camshaft maker to protect the cam lobes/lifter from scuffing at initial startup.) Engine oil tests were updated to test oils in situations where valve train hardware wear could occur.
It was found higher levels of ZDDP were beneficial at least very early in the engine's life (at and shortly after initial engine startup) but the higher levels of ZDDP resulted in longer term wear.
Starting around the early 70's engines required better antioxidant protection to guard against oil thickening and because ZDDP was cheap it was used in place of phosphorus, with the amount of ZDDP in the 0.10% range.
But because phosphorus is poison to converters ZDDP levels have been reduced since the early 1990's to where it is down to around 0.08%.
All modern oils must pass in addition to the other tests the 2 tests which test for valve train wear.
Modern oils contain nearly the same level of ZDDP which was found to address valve train scuffing/wear at initial engine start back in the 1950's but less ZDDP which was used to combat oil thickening in the 1970's.
There is no reason to run oils with high levels of ZDDP unless one wishes to risk longer term wear or premature converter failure.
ZDDP=a problem for cats on gas engines .That is an old story that applied to
T4
and older formulations - is no longer relevant. We are discussing the current Rotella
T6
See a prior Post:
" Newer formulations of Rotella T6 however are API SM rated as safe for pre-2011 gasoline vehicles." It's TBN is 10.6.
http://www.trucktrend.com/how-to/par...-gasoline-oil/
I'd be interested to know if anyone has run 15w-50 M1 for an extended period of time and then assessed the internal condition of the engine components, since it is not an approved oil. Is its lack of approval due to its insufficient sulphated ash and phosphorus levels vs the approved A40 oils (0w-40 and 5w-50)?! I dunno...
Are you (or the dude who recommended it) assuming the benefit afforded by less viscosity index improvers in the 15w-50 M1 surpasses the Porsche A40 approval of the 5w-50 version of Mobil1?
Food for thought...
Small update on this, I found the 2.5 gallons of rotella on walmart for $53 and free shipping so I ordered it and used it for an oil change on my wife's Benz turbo diesel.
A couple of things were tricky, there are no graduation marks on the side of the container so harder to measure out the correct volume of oil to use, also the big container is heavy (kind of obvious) so harder on my back bending over to pour it in.
However 10 quarts for $5.30 per quart is a good price so I'll probably keep using this, I'm around 4k miles away from my next oil change in the 996
I ran it for years (well over 100,000 miles) in my gasoline BMW, UOAs always came back great, the car always passes emissions. However the T6 formula recently changed and doesn't have the advantages (for us) that is used to carry. I've since stopped using it.
With Napa Auto parts online sale, their online club points discount, and Mobil1's rebate, I just got 10 quarts of mobil1 5w-50 for $3.33 a quart, total cost.
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