996 Chain Tensioner issue - noisy startup after replace...

Hello Forum; I have a 996 Carrera2 3.4L; 1998 and @ 95K Km (60K miles) During engine regeneration because of 3rd cylinder issue; My repair shop (a private repair shop) said me it needed to change chain tensioners. I bought them from Porsche Frankfurt with Chasis numbers. But, the lookings of the tensioners were totally different; when I asked to dealership; They said these are the new versions, and suitable with my car. We built up engine; and everything looked good, works fine... But; when it gets cold start, there are chain noises just only for 3-5 seconds. After it gets oil pressure; noise is going completely... What should I do? I already changed the oil and filters etc... Why these new tensioners make noises on cold start up? We put the tensioners with this order: 996 105 188 01 (4-6 cyl, under the climate comp.) 996 105 180 54 (near the crank-shaft) 996 105 186 01 (1-3 cyl, left bottom korner) And; we did not use any plastic o-ring or metal washers/spangles. Is it occurs any fault? I will change the oil in next week; so during this procedure; I would like to fix this.

No one??

It's quite normal to hear a chain rattle on start up which goes in a couple of seconds. Well it is on mine. I don't think it should be on an engine which has just had NEW tensioners installed but not sure.

On my '99, which has the original chain tensioners in it, I get a lot of chain noise at startup. It lasts just a few seconds while the engine jumps to 2k RPM and then settles back down to idle. I agree that it does not sound good, but I have heard that it is normal. Interesting that an engine with new type of tensioners does the same thing.

Did the lifters get replaced?

Without knowing anything about Porsche tensioners, I would say they are not maintaining hydraulic pressure when the car is off. The same thing happens to the old 40 valve Audi 4.2 engine, and the same symptoms are present. The only fix on those is to replace the tensioner. I would check http://www.suncoastparts.com/ and maybe see what the part numbers are for a 99 and see if they match what you put in.

Might be something of value in the thread at this link: http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic...ain-tensioner/

Thanks Macster. Thats a great thread. I may give it a try sometime.

Ok this thread got me wanting to replace my IMS chain tensioner. Here's the question though... which one? I've read a few threads on here and renntech referencing a few different tensioners. For a 99': 996-105-180-54 was apparently the original. Not available anymore This got superceded to 996-105-180-57... tough to find Now I'm seeing 996-105-180-59 pop up in its place (still doesn't have the external spring like the newer style chain tensioners have) So do I go with a -59? I also read reviews that the type with the external spring works fine and some say better to reduce chain noise at start up... then there's some people who say not do use that type. Decisions decisions.

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The link I posted to a thread about chain tensioner replacement and the question about which tensioner for which MY could contain some info of some value. Since I am not in need of this knowledge I didn't read the thread well enough to be able to condense the info. All I can recommend is you visit your local Porsche dealer parts department and with your car's VIN have the parts department look up the correct part number for your car's chain tensioners. There would be still be gotchas. For instance the chain tensioners might require other items be replaced, too. The parts department might be able to tell this from the notes in the catalog but you might need to speak to a senior tech too, if you have that good of a relationship with the service department and the techs. (Some few years back I ordered/bought new windshield washer nozzles for my Boxster. When I had the car in and the washer nozzles in the bag on the front seat the tech offered to install them. He reported to me later he was unable to install the new nozzles as they would not work without the installation of the required $75/each wiring harness connectors.)

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It's the reason (along with multiple other similar threads) that I'm now confused on the issue.

According to Pelican the updated 4-6 tensioner can be determined by noting the large 'hex bit' design (14mm if I recall) instead of the 'bolt' design which makes very difficult to manipulate with the AC compressor in the way. The 4-6 also hangs upside down which according to Raby leads the old design to leak down after sitting idle for periods of time. My question is has anyone replaced all 3 tensioners and had their car quieter on startups because ot this?

You might also ensure you are using the correct grade of engine oil. I don't want to start a silly oil debate but if you use the wrong grade for your climate/usage ,it may be an issue.

Lost in translation?

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The tensioners in both of my cars are original, so I have never had them replaced or replaced them. I can guarantee you though is even with new tensioners there'll always be some noise upon startup if the engine has sat some length of time. This is a characteristic of chain driven camshafts along with the hydraulic lifters which add their share of noise to the general startup clatter too. All I can offer is you must be sure you used the right parts and installed them correctly. If you omitted say an o-ring or seal/washer it could be oil pressure is being bled away from the tensioner piston and the tensioner doesn't tension the chain as quickly as it would otherwise. This can extend the time the chain makes some noise after engine start. Also, I assume you didn't use some kind of "break in" oil? I've come across some "engine builders" who recommend straight 30W oil for "break in". You want the engine filled to the proper level -- max line but not above when measured hot -- of oil and the oil wants to be an approved oil, in one of the acceptable multi-viscosity grades: 0w-40, 5w-40, or even 5w-50. 'course, you must take into account the ambient temperature where you live/drive. If real low, very cold, 0w-40 is the proper oil.

Engine oil makes a huge difference in this. If you run M1 can bet that you will have these sounds, even with new tensioners. I have developed a kit that will forever quieten these sounds (patent pending). I have just released it to distributors, so we will see how long it takes to get it on the market. These sounds mean timing chain, and chain rail wear that's accelerated. There's no such thing as a "normal noise" in my world.

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There should be a thick crush washer between the tensioner & engine!

Without that crush washer, the oil passages in the tensioner don't correctly sign, either... Could be a big part of the issue.

All; Thank you for your interest and reply. I checked them couple of times; everything seems right. But still I am getting annoying noise Hope; it will not emake any problem in the future...

Fire starter you said you checked a couple of times but still have noise, the washer that needs to be installed is metal and very obvious between the block and the tensioner, as raby says if it's not installed it means the tensioner is further in than it should be meaning the oil hole gets miss aligned so the tensioner isn't getting proper oil feed, let us know do you have washers or not??