20 captured repliesDiscussion pagination complete · Source accounts, not a confirmed diagnosis
THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHHELP Engine knocking noise W/Video and Audio
Leading reported evidence
Replace said dismantler mentioned the oil pan
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
Reported fixes
0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
Discussions
Read evidence and context
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Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
1
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
Said dismantler mentioned the oil pan was replaced.
Leading evidence: 'Replace said dismantler mentioned the oil pan' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'scored cylinder' (1 discussions; 0 report identifying it and 1 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Check cylinders' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Discussions that suspect a cause
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Suspected cause
Most likely a scored cylinder, which you can verify with a borescope.
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Suggestion
Then use the borescope to check all the cylinders.
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Suggestion
If it is still noisey pull the oil filter and dissect it to check for debris.
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Suggestion
Sounds too noisy to be a lifter, I had a couple stick a little when I first started my engine after the rebuild until they refilled , if you stick your head under the car to the side where the valve cover is you can hear it more clearly if it's a lifted, if it's coming from a more central location it's the piston skirt tapping on the bore because the bore has scored, I would get it out and send it straight back, when I bought my replacement engine I had it bore scoped and leak down/compression tested before I bought it, I paid the dismantler to bring the engine to the independent to check it before he got paid, then I pulled it apart and fully rebuilt it!!
Counts describe captured discussions, not unique people or a diagnosis. Author identities are not reliably stored. Exact duplicate evidence is counted once across matching discussions; one discussion counts at most once per action/state. Multiple repairs reported together remain a combination. Suggestions and failed attempts do not establish a fix. Matches cover whole discussions and can include related faults, model variants and incomplete threads.
20 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
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So the motor is a 996 3.6 from a 2003. It was purchased from a dismantler. I wont mention any names. I am also not with the engine at the moment so further diagnosis would not be possible until next week. Just wondering if anyone can share thoughts or opinions. Said dismantler mentioned the oil pan was replaced. So Im now deducting that something was starved for oil and Im fearing the worst a rod bearing. Dismantler has agreed to refund my cost for the engine but not the shipping to and from nor the labour.
Question is, is the sound bad enough to remove motor and send back or dig deeper and repair what is broken and accept half the repair bill.....
All advice and opinions are welcomed
15E076 - YouTube
Btw, you should first check if all the spark plugs are tight and the headers are not leaking. Then use a stethoscope to check if you can pinpoint the general area of the knock. Then use the borescope to check all the cylinders. If any of them is scored, the repair will be easily $10k+ range just for parts and resleeving
Have you let it warm up? If it is a stuck/collapsed lifter it might free up as it heats up. If it is a scored cylinder it won't hurt it any worse to let it warm up. If it is still noisey pull the oil filter and dissect it to check for debris. Check for loose spark plugs.
Then do the diagnostics that Ahsai suggested.
If you're in the market to buy another used engine we have one with 25k miles still in the car, can be tested in person before removed. We also have a rebuilt 3.6l available. If you're interested feel free to contact me for further questions.
Sounds too noisy to be a lifter, I had a couple stick a little when I first started my engine after the rebuild until they refilled , if you stick your head under the car to the side where the valve cover is you can hear it more clearly if it's a lifted, if it's coming from a more central location it's the piston skirt tapping on the bore because the bore has scored, I would get it out and send it straight back, when I bought my replacement engine I had it bore scoped and leak down/compression tested before I bought it, I paid the dismantler to bring the engine to the independent to check it before he got paid, then I pulled it apart and fully rebuilt it!!
It sounds real bad. Send it back ASAP. If this engine was advertised "as is" you're screwed. If it was advertised "runs great!" then the seller owes you $$,$$$. No one in their right mind could think that engine is anything but damaged.
