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YOUR RESEARCHNeed help- potential purchase 01 Aero C4
Leading reported evidence
Replace battery and it never came back
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
Reported fixes
0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
Discussions
Read evidence and context
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Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
1
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
However, seller noted that dealership cleared ABS/PSM and replaced battery and it never came back.
Leading evidence: 'Replace battery and it never came back' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Check aos/water pump/ims issues' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
Knowing how it's been cared for and what has been replaced is huge.
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Suggestion
As stated above - check the AOS/water pump/IMS issues.
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Suggestion
It's recommended by some that you change the AOS and water pump every 3 years, the IMS retrofit every 5, and you need to know if the RMS has been done.
Repair sand also determine extent of chain housing oil leak/etc
Suggestion or failed attempt
No successful repair reported for this finding.
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Reported fixes
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Unsuccessful attempts
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Discussions
Read evidence and context
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Discussions that contain suggestions
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Suggestion
- a good PPI will determine quality of repair sand also determine extent of chain housing oil leak/etc.
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Suggestion
It's recommended by some that you change the AOS and water pump every 3 years, the IMS retrofit every 5, and you need to know if the RMS has been done.
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27 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
0 evidence records excluded for query context · 0 excluded by outcome qualification · 0 adjusted by outcome qualification.
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Generation: 20261027T035758Z · outcome-qualification-6. Deterministic extraction; no AI model inference. How we use sources
Hey guys. Been a long-time searcher on rennlist, but needed some direction on a potential acquisition.
Vehicle: 2001 911 C4 Aero
Mileage: 51,000
Asking: $22,000
Had a chance to test drive the vehicle this afternoon. Felt very good. No anomalies in driving sensation. Anyways, had some basic questions if you can help.
1.) Vehicle came with a PPI from March 2016 from a Porsche dealership. Do all dealerships do a over-rev analysis? The seller did not have this and noted it never came with it. That seemed odd to me. I plan to contact dealership tomorrow to see.
2.) PPI noted chain case seepage. However, I couldn't note anything as the seller had powerwashed the engine and underbody (suspicious to me). I gave it some heavy foot and oil pressure held at 5 barr and returned back to 3. Seemed normal.
3.) PPI noted PSM off and ABS light on while driving. However, seller noted that dealership cleared ABS/PSM and replaced battery and it never came back. I didn't see it while test drive.
4.) Accident. Car had an accident, no salvage in title, however there is impact damage on the L/R undershield and it was noted in Carfax. Unfortunately, this is the 4th owner and accident occurred with 1st owner and there are no records on hand other than PPI and Carfax.
With all that said, it's a pretty car, right options, felt strong. I'm curious to hear about your thoughts on the price point or anything I mentioned that would make you walk away. I'm still learning about the 996. Was thinking of a TT, but this price point is pretty convincing.
I plan to do a PPI unless you suggest me otherwise.
Thanks!
It's really important to find a car that you can get a maintenance history on. Knowing how it's been cared for and what has been replaced is huge. It's recommended by some that you change the AOS and water pump every 3 years, the IMS retrofit every 5, and you need to know if the RMS has been done. You can easily spend 5k right off the bat (unless you are doing the work yourself) just to get the basics up to date. It's all a matter of odds but these cars can cost a whole lot of money to service and maintain so the more info you have going in, the more you reduce your risk.
Also, make sure you want a C4. It's all preference but the c2 is a little lighter and I personally like the way it handles a little better.
There is a speed yellow '01 C2 with an FSI rebuild (best money can buy) lurking around here thinking about selling. It's a little more money but by the time you do all of the maintenance on this one you will be money ahead.
Here's a link. Price is in CDN:
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...l#post13175398
Research research research
Yes to the PPI
Ignore the accident, if it happened with the first owner and no problems and the mechanic checks it out, no worries
As stated above - check the AOS/water pump/IMS issues. If not done, no big deal, but you will hace to pay eventually to have them done/addressed.
Spend more time here asking questions and looking. None of these cars are rare. And if you do not do your homework it can get expensive quick.
The aerokit is quite desirable. C4 not so much unless you plan on DD in winter conditions. The C4 can be converted to a C2 fairly easily though. I wouldn't worry too much about the accident either but I would recommend getting your own thorough PPI and I'd be prepared for some cash outlay for maintenance. Any pics? Options?
That's a bit more than I recently paid for a 99 C4 (non-Aero) with similar mileage. I think the price difference probably is accounted for by the Aerokit.
When was the last clutch replacement? Basically, clutch/IMS/RMS/AOS will cost like $4,000 to do all together, but addresses most of the big picture issues in one go.
You do know that the C4 has the a stiffer chassis since it shares its tub with the GT3 right? If you want to build a serious track car, the C4 is the better base (and then removing the AWD bits.
Actually the AWD is geared towards performance and cornering rather than adverse conditions, but it is a little beast in off color weather.
My buddy is also interesting in that car, but I think he lost interest because of the lack of response from the guys selling the car. Here is the thread I started the other day about the engine just being way too clean:
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...-thoughts.html
I would make sure you PPI included cam deviations, oil change look for metallic material, borescope the cylinders and drop the sump.
If it passes those inspections, I would jump on that car due to the options and mods that the previous owners had done if the body looks good.
FYI, the asking price on craigslist for the car is $20K, I don't know where you get the $22K.
Best of luck!
Mr Gnat speaketh the truth. My old C4 would pull like crazy coming out of turns on the track.
Not crazy about the current owner power washing away some motor crud though.
accident damage is important to acknowledge - some guys throw the aero-kit on the car when accidents happen to replace front bumper/etc. -how is the paint quality on front bumper and all other panels? - a good PPI will determine quality of repair sand also determine extent of chain housing oil leak/etc.
There is a '99 listed at 22k.
http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sby/cto/5523342244.html
I presume you guys are discussing this one?
http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/cto/5531566533.html
vitaminC: Yes, you are correct about the cars. My friend was looking into the $20K one. The sellers are new at the game, bought it from an auction and are providing very little info.
The other car is a close cousin to mine! Except it has the "preferred" four spoke steering wheel (if you are a Doc, let's just say I don't prefer them). Best of luck!
BTW, the $20K one just has so many options and nice mods IMO. The wheels could easily be changed.
They both look great on the outside but my tummy can't handle the grey interior they both have. The 20K car looks good but with all those cool pics you leave the oil cap dirty?
I'm in SanFran this week and have been resisting the urge to reach out to him for a look since it was posted to the CL thread...
Nice looking car even with a few things I'd need to take off. Would be a very nice blue twin to our Black one
Didn't know that, great info. I just know I like the feel of the rear wheel handling better than I did the AWD on the turbo I had. Weight may be a part of that as well but if I had a C4 I would probably convert it pretty quickly.
I will say that the C4S is very sexy and if they made a widebody C2 with factory aero I would be all over it.
[QUOTE=Paul Waterloo;13209568]vitaminC: Yes, you are correct about the cars. My friend was looking into the $20K one.
The sellers are new at the game, bought it from an auction and are providing very little info.
theres a scary bit of info - proceed slowly
[QUOTE=groovzilla;13209873]
You were, right! I have a signed document (took the guy three amendments to get the document right) by the seller and myself explicitly specifying an agreed upon price contingent on the PPI. I get a call at 5:15pm stating they had another buyer and wanted to know if I would counter. I asked to cancel my deposit based on these poor business practices. I will be taking this up with the BBB.
Just a warning for all of you in case you see this car relisted anywhere. It's being sold by a company named B&T Motors. They're a DBA under Pleasanton Smog and Repair.
Lesson learned...
[QUOTE=ancientsanskrit;13211333]
I test drove this car and decided to buy a different 911. The sellers original ad was not very well written, so I decoded the VIN and drafted a better ad to help him since he didn't know a lot about 911s. Sorry to hear about the way you were treated. By the way, I have no affiliation with the seller.
