IMS Installation problem

I know this topic has been beat to death, but I have a question and need some help. I have a 996 C4 that is in the shop for RMS, IMS from LN, and clutch. We got the IMS dual row and I just got a call from the shop saying he can't get the IMS installed and doesn't want to beat on it any harder. He did not buy the LN Engineering installation tool. Heated the shaft, froze the bearing, but no luck. Has anyone installed an LN IMS dual row without the LN tool? What is the trick? or is the tool the only way to go??? Thanks John

The installation tool comes with the removal tool set. If the shop does not have the removal tool set, how did they remove the bearing? Second hand information from a first hand source that seems to not know what they are doing, tells me to not try to solve this dilemma.

DId they set the engine to TDC, lock the camshafts, and remove the chain tensioners? I think they missed a step. Now I expect the timing is off. Time to buy the right tools!

There are two sets of tools (IMS Pro tool kit, and M96 Faultless tool set) . He has the first set which was used to remove the bearing, he does not have the second set. I take it that your experience is that the IMS pro tool kit is also used for installation of bearing ??? Is that the case? Thanks for the info

yep, camshaft locked, TDC set, tensioners out.

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That would be my vote. Porsche did not engineer this bearing with the idea that it would be changed, so it's not surprising that ordinary tools don't seem to work well. Precision is quite important here, and it has to be false economy to try to get along without the right tools.

If it is just a standard bearing, the pro set is all that’s needed. If it is IMS Solution or retrofit, you’ll need additional tools. But the bearing not going in all the way sounds like they missed a step.

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The tool kit 106.08.13 in the first picture includes a installation tool for the single row or the dual row IMSB, BUT if you are installing the single row PRO brg 106.08.2.2 (dual row brg into a single row shaft) you must use the install tool from the Faultless tool set 106.08.22 due to the 106.08.2.2 brg having an external retaining ring that must be first collapsed (in the installation tool) before it is installed into the shaft, otherwise the bearing will not go past the retaining ring...

Are you saying that they have the bearing partially installed but that it won't fully seat? Honestly, I'd use the proper tools before you cause a more expensive problem. Even with the tools, the IMS shaft gets pulled off to the side slightly once the original bearing is removed and can make it a little tricky to get started. Using the tools, I couldn't get my bearing to fully go in by pounding it (we're talking like the last 1mm) - and ended up pulling it in the rest of the way by slowly tightening the flange down. Good luck.

The thing I don't understand is why the shop is calling the client and asking for pointers on how to install the bearing?

I have only done ONE of these in person. So - that means I am no expert by any stretch. Here's two cents worth. There is a bit of a ridge on the case flange where the bearing rides. I there is any kind of deformity or bumps, or knocks on that case flange, it will **** the bearing on install. Once that happens, it gets worse, and worse, and worse as more force is applied. Next, did they take the lockring off and leave it off? I did a double row, so I didn't have the same kind of lockring, but I believe there is a spring wire, or clip, or some kind of retainer for the single row bearing that needs to come out when going to dual. Lastly, I did no beating on the bearing at all. the threaded shaft, and the barrel were used to smoothly press the bearing home. The shaft helps self-center the machined cam end. If there is a bump or ridge on that, it will interfere as well. Again, not a pro, and not an expert. Mine went in without any beating. I did a dual row, to dual row and it was a flawless fit.

Problem SOLVED !!! Bearing installed !!! Thank you all for your help. The IMS Pro tool kit did the job and the M96 Faultless tool was NOT needed. There was a slight burr on the slip ring groove that kept it from going in straight the first time he tried. Cleaned everything down and it went in great. Back in business. New RMS/IMS/Clutch. As for why the "client" was researching the fix, I know the mechanic very well, and I volunteered to do a quick post when he said he had trouble getting the bearing in the first time, and since he charges me half of the other shops around, I'll help in any way I can. Thanks again John

Whew, good to hear. Don't for get RMS and clutch. It's kind of a package deal, depending on mileage.

Should you really do RMS though, if it's not leaking? On other cars I worked with, it's always a "leave it alone" kind of deal as long as it's shut. On my Volvo it lasted over 300k km, yet leaked when I put the new one in on a rebuilt engine. Second installation didn't leak. I've heard crazy numbers thrown around by my local mechanic like "1 in 10 RMS jobs leak right from the start, that's just how it is" but have no source for that.

RMS is a known failure item on the 996 engine. Doesn't matter either way to me, but mine wasn't leaking either and I put a new one in. Apparently there is a design change from the original.

I�ve used the if it isn�t leaking leave it alone approach with the RMS since getting them installed perfectly can be tricky and you don�t know for sure until it�s all back together. When I did my IMS I saw that my RMS had been replaced with the updated seal so I opted to leave it alone.

The RMS was leaking, that's what got me there in the first place. Once things were torn apart I decided to do the clutch and IMS. The clutch was a no brainer, but I debated on the IMS since it showed no issues. However there was overwhelming input from forums and other owners I know, to do the IMS given the 996 history and catastrophic impact of failure. Time will tell, I'm hoping the new RMS design will stay sealed for a long time.

For what it's worth, I did my own L&N IMS install without special tools. I did make a couple of tools myself, but mostly you just have to be careful and not miss a step, like removing the chain tensioners. Also, for me, I went ahead and did the RMS with the updated part. Mine had the original seal in. Plus I did the new microencapsulated bolts. Burner's Cars on YouTube has a great series where he did an IMSB swap on a Boxster. He didn't use an L&N bearing but same principle. I found it very helpful. https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCIo...RWYPh7d9GmRbDQ