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YOUR RESEARCHFirst oil change -- Problems after
Leading reported evidence
Check oil filter
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
I went ahead and drained the oil and re-checked the oil filter, which when broken, spun off by hand perfectly.
Leading evidence: 'Check oil filter' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Check camshaft deviation values, and top it off' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Suggestion · Original poster
and was getting ready to drive off to let the oil disperse, check my camshaft deviation values, and top it off with oil tonight.
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Suggestion · Original poster
I'm just glad I was checking my gauges on startup.
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Suggestion · Original poster
After filling the car back up with 8.5-9q of oil, I checked the electronic level (the dipstick read over full) and it read two or three bars under full line.
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Suggestion · Original poster
After filling the car back up with 8.5-9q of oil, I checked the electronic level (the dipstick read over full) and it read two or three bars under full line.
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28 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
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Hello all,
Today I changed the oil on my new-to-me 996. Additionally, I decided to change the air filter and drive belt. After filling the car back up with 8.5-9q of oil, I checked the electronic level (the dipstick read over full) and it read two or three bars under full line. I plugged up the
durametric
and was getting ready to drive off to let the oil disperse, check my camshaft deviation values, and top it off with oil tonight.
Before I was able to leave, I noticed after about a minute (and a half) of running that the oil pressure light was on and the oil pressure gauge read sub-1 bar. I freaked out and immediately shut the car off. I checked to see if the oil filter, which looked good and scoured the forums -- didn't see a similar problem. I decided it must have been a fluke, so I tried to re-start the vehicle. Start up showed the gauge still at sub-1 bar and the oil pressure light on. This start sounded much rougher.
Thinking back through the oil change, I wondered what I could have possibly done to leave my car with no oil pressure. The only weird thing I can thing of is the oil filter hand-spun on about half the way and hung up, so I had to finish the rest of the 10 or so revolutions with a wrench. I started to thing that maybe I couldn't build oil pressure because I cross-threaded the oil filter, or messed up something on the oil filter. It's the only odd variable.
I went ahead and drained the oil and re-checked the oil filter, which when broken, spun off by hand perfectly. The oil filter looked good to go, with the oil bypass mechanism well-seated in the oil filter. I'm going to let the oil sit for awhile and see if there are any insights on these awesome forums. Thanks in advance!
I'd say the other odd variable is the dipstick reading overfull when you only added 8.5-9 qts of oil. In my 996.1, 9 quarts gets me right in the middle of the dipstick, which I have found always more accurate than the electronic reader. That doesn't explain why your oil pressure should be low, but on flat ground that dipstick reading is way off.
Ten or so revolutions sounds a lot more than what I remember from the past as a total turns on the plastic oil filter holder!! I use a spin on filter now so maybe my memory is faulty, but...? So when you installed the filter cartridge did you slip it on the tube until it seated then screwed on the can? I heard reports that these filters can crush, but you said it looked ok,,,right? Was there oil in the filter can when you removed it after the no oil pressure problem?
"
the oil filter hand-spun on about half the way and hung up, so I had to finish the rest of the 10 or so revolutions with a wrench"
This scares the crap out of me.
I'd not be surprised if a "little plastic part" was put in the wrong side of the filter when it was re- installed... That is IF it was a stock cartridge style filter, and not a spin on.
I've seen people do that before... Thats why the filter canister had to be turned with a wrench so many times, because the assembly was reassembled backward, and the "plastic part" contacted the oil inlet too soon.
This is the only thing that makes sense to me..
10 turns sounds like a lot, no? Maybe 10 turns is 10 "twists" or partial turns...like 10 quarter turns.
10 revolutions sounds like about 6 or 7 too many.
Yeah, but if the filter inlet has a plastic valve shoved inside it, you'll struggle to even get the first thread of the canister started... Then you'll have to work hard to thread the canister on.
I have seen someone do this, and kill his engine. This is just a guess, as we've seen it a few times, and this is the only thing that makes sense, that he could have done to require such a tightening task, AND low oil pressure.
Much appreciated gentlemen for the input. Ultimately figured out my issue (<<< noob).
The oil bypass valve came out with the old filter and not the canister. I got the direction wrong when I put it back in, which is why the oil filter/canister threaded half-way by hand without issue, and required a wrench to turn the rest. Pulled the new filter out last night to reverse the direction and noticed the filter tear. So, for that last half-way of threading I was destroying the filter.
If anyone is doing a first-time oil change and you happen to have the bypass valve separate from the canister, make sure you either seat it in the bottom of the canister, or (what I had to do), press it into the bottom of the filter, press the filter on to the car, and finally finish by threading the canister on.
After I finished this process, I restarted the car this morning and after about 2 seconds of running with no pressure/oil pressure warning light on, the pressure bounced immediately up to 4+ bar and the warning light went out.
ETA: I did get a new filter to replace the torn one.
So... the �plastic part� did get you..
What that scenario does is shut off the oil exiting the filter, going into the engine.
This one has gotten a lot of people. Looks like I need to do an oil change video for Rennvision.
Buy a spin-on filter adapter from LN Engineering and the proper spin-on filter. That way you don't have to worry about this issue and many others due to the original plastic can. One of which is if the by-pass fails in the open position you feed unfiltered oil back into your engine. NOT a good situation! I believe the by-pass snaps into the bottom of the filter can...right?
Yes, it did! I figured the oil bypass valve would be engine side, but alas it wasn't. Since I didn't see the valve indicated on any manuals or other tutorials, or associated with the canister, as I prepped for the job I thought for sure it wasn't supposed to go that way.... I'm just glad I was checking my gauges on startup.
Yes, I want to get the adapter and will have it ready when I do my next oil change!
Yes it can be cut open to review the filter media. There are many ways. The best I have found is to get one of these oil filter cutter tools. I got mine from Speedway Motors, but it is available from numerous sources. Safe easy quick.
Just did my first oil change on my new to me 2003. Ended up getting the spin on filter, adapter and magnetic plug from LN along with the oil. Feel that it was a good investment. Old filter was good, no issues happily! Engine is very happy with the new filter/oil. Running more quietly now. Feel for the original poster, must have been freaked out when this happened. Hope all turns out to be OK.
Cheers,
John
