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Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHCodes help. Camshaft adjustment + toothed belt
Leading reported evidence
Install (3
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
Reported fixes
0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
Discussions
Read evidence and context
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1
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
These are the chain rails that are fitted (3.4 through 2001) to the cam timing adjuster, and they are worn on all engines that we see.
Leading evidence: 'Install (3' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'on both banks of the engine' (1 discussions; 0 report identifying it and 1 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Check crankcase position sensor and maf' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
BUT, the best part is the owner said (like all of them do!) �I have followed the owner�s manual to the T, and always had the oil changed when I was supposed to, and the car was taken care of by the dealer�.
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Suspected cause
You should find the deviation issue is on both banks of the engine, but one side will be worse than the other..
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Suggestion
I would start by checking the crankcase position sensor and MAF.
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Suggestion · Original poster
I read some forums etc and I hope its as simple as replacing spark park coils.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
BUT, the best part is the owner said (like all of them do!) �I have followed the owner�s manual to the T, and always had the oil changed when I was supposed to, and the car was taken care of by the dealer�.
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13 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
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Hi.
I am getting these 3 codes not sure how to proced? Do I need to do timming?
Camshaft Adjustment bank 1
Toothed belt out of position bank 1
Oxygen sensing range 1. Cylinder 1-3.
with engnie idling I am getting?:
Camshaft Postion 1 deviation 17.0 crk
Camshaft Postion 2 deviation 0 crk
Igintion Timing 4.5 crk
I would start by checking the crankcase position sensor and MAF. Is the engine running rough?
P0174 System Too Lean (Bank 2)
P0322 Crankshaft position (CPS) sensor/engine speed (RPM) sensor
P0027 Exhaust Valve Control Solenoid Circuit Range/Performance (Bank 1) DOES NOT EXIST ON A 996
The codes you are giving us are weird. And a Porsche 996 3.4 engine does not have a "toothed timing belt". Who is giving you this information? You should probably do a search on how a 3.4L engine is "timed". That would be eye-opening for you.
Classic codes in relation to worn variable valve timing chain rails. These are the chain rails that are fitted (3.4 through 2001) to the cam timing adjuster, and they are worn on all engines that we see. I have seen them wear so badly they break in half, and the chain then takes out the cam adjuster, or breaks.
The PST2 has given me some shady data in the past, a Durametric is easier to use, and more reliable IMHO. You should find the deviation issue is on both banks of the engine, but one side will be worse than the other..
Thanks everyone for help. I read some forums etc and I hope its as simple as replacing spark park coils. As I might be having some problems with those.
The OBD2 codes I am getting are:
P1531
P1340
The car runs fine. The codes will stay off sometimes for 60 70 miles.
The car is running fine for a while, until the ECU looks to get a sample from a sensor.. Then it sees something out of range, and throws the CEL.
Don't be fooled. I�ve never seen a 1531 code created by a coil pack. Driving this car with these things going on, can easily lead to bigger issues.
Id carry out a proper diagnosis, then treat accordingly. Throwing some coil packs at it likely won�t solve anything.
When I bought my car as a non runner, one of these pads wore through and broke off. The broken piece made its way to the other bank and got jammed between the timing chain and the scavenge pump sprocket. This made the chain jump a few teeth that bent all the exhaust valves on that bank. So listen to the advise and change them or at least have a really good look at them (both pads on each bank).
Yep, that�s not the first time that�s happened.. Won�t be the last.
People think that just because the engine runs, that its ok to operate it.
Mechanical problems will never get better without intervention. They will only get worse, effect more components, increase collateral damage, and become more expensive.
I have seen someone run a car so long that these wear pads were worn away to the point of breakage. He still kept driving the car until the chain chewed through the cam adjuster housing. This shed super hard steel debris all through the engine, and there was nothing left that we could reconstruct. When the car came in, it had a piece of black tape over the check engine light. When i asked the owner why he did that, he replied that the light was too bright when driving the car at night.
BUT, the best part is the owner said (like all of them do!) �I have followed the owner�s manual to the T, and always had the oil changed when I was supposed to, and the car was taken care of by the dealer�. He followed that with �The light has only been on for the last 5,000 miles, and the last oil change was about 10,000 miles before that�.