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YOUR RESEARCHAre wheel lug nuts Porsche specific?
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Use ball seat lug nuts
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Read evidence and context
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My 69T with "S" Brakes and Fuchs Wheels used ball seat lug nuts..
Leading evidence: 'Use ball seat lug nuts' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Check carefully' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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A word of caution, the thread on Porsche bolts (studs were used on the 993 and earlier cars) is not special.
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Suggestion
On the other hand check carefully to make sure you get the right taper.
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Suggestion
BTW - Porsche recommends replacing the bolts every time the tires are changed.
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I need to replace these with some chrome plated lug nuts:
Hmmm, I'm not sure if the photo is uploaded or not...
Anyway, is the thread on the lug nuts Porsche specific, or can I buy an aftermarket lug nut that is chrome plated?
Or, what is my best option to replace these nuts with better looking ones?
Thanks.
...Rickker
Thanks, Tippy. No wheel studs? I guess people are wondering just how long Rickker has owned a 996 (about 3 months) since he has never had the wheels off.
Well, I guess they are Porsche specific! Are there chrome plated ones available? I could paint them, but how long would it last, if the wheels are removed frequently? What do others do? I haven't seen any pics on this forum of rusty wheel bolts like mine.
...Rickker
'99 C4
Here are the chrome plated lugs. There are several different ones available on ebay and from vendors like performance products. They aren't cheap...mine were $189 for the set. There are some stainless ones that might be nice. There are even titanium ones that cost as much as a nice set of wheels.
Well, if you get the right paint from the auto store they should hold up pretty well. How often are you planning on taking off your wheels? Mine don't come off that often.
Porsche had a whole period where the bolts rusted - some have had success in getting Porsche to fully or partially fund a new set, as clearly this should not be happening.
If you do buy your own new ones - Automotion.com is a good option
http://www.automotion.com/productcat...cid=22&sid=317
Chrome runs $14.95 ea
Thanks, Mfletch and cdodkin. It seeems sometimes you get what you ask for! The pricing on these items is testing my committment to going with chrome. Will check out the ones on eBay and see what happens.
....Rickker
I have these chrome ones from Boothe Design. Notice the serrated edge of the captive washer. The quality on these is so impeccable, you'll want to display them in your china cabinet. They're $12 per bolt for the standard length.
http://www.boothedesign.com/assets/bolt_lg.jpg
I used touch up paint from Advance auto. Get the heather mist metallic for Honda. Mine weren't rusted as bad as yours so I just painted over them without even taking the wheels off. It worked great and has held up well so far.
An easy and quick fix.
I bet Rustoleum makes a silver that goes right over the rust and looks good. I just don't have the patience to take all the lug bolts off and paint them while the car sits on jack stands, etc.
I have a couple of sets and found out the hard way that some after market wheels will not work with the standard nuts. Another reason to stick with Porsche wheels
Go with Automotion, the you know you're getting a set with the right floating shoulder piece etc etc
Here's my extra long set from them - for wheels fitted to 15mm spacers - same idea though
A word of caution, the thread on Porsche bolts (studs were used on the 993 and earlier cars) is not special. On the other hand check carefully to make sure you get the right taper. The side of the nut touching the wheel is not flat and the taper is important.
The floating spacers are a way to be able to use industry standard high tensile streangth bolts without having to design and manufacture special wheel bolts with the taper (and increased contact area) milled in. The "floating" thing is a misnomer. They are just adapters for tapered wheel counter sinks. Some would say that the increased contact area increases heat transfer and they would be correct (miniscule). T6 and up is what you want to run for optimal streangth (racing) but that is unnecessary for N/A driving.
Bottom line? Unless you are racing the foo foo bolts will work just fine. For racing, high tenstile bolts with "floating" adaptors are the cheapest way to ensure that your wheels will stay on when braking from 200mph -hundreds of times.
BTW - Porsche recommends replacing the bolts every time the tires are changed.
Last final note - there is a Porsche TSB that recommends that the wheel bolts should be replaced with the lighter 14mm head deapth bolts - the 15.5 mm head bolts seem to of been excessive and are unnecessary unsprung wheel weight. ahh - sure...
What started off as a simple question from me, has become a most informative thread!
Now here's a related question: Most cars have wheels studs, so when you are changing wheels, you lift the wheel up, juggle it until it slides on the studs, and then thread on the lug nuts. Pretty straight forward. But the 996 does not use studs as Tippy pointed out to me.
I am about to remove my snow tires/wheels and install the summer ones. The rear wheels are heavy, at least for my 65 year old body. Is there a trick to position the wheel in place, so that one of the wheel bolts can be threaded into the hub? It seems this job would be a lot easier with studs and wheels nuts, rather than the bolts used on the 996. It seems like 3 hands are needed. How do you guys handle this fairly common task?
....Rickker
Porsche have you covered.
If you look in your Porsche tool roll, you'll see a 4-5 inch long metal shaft with a thread on one end, and a hole through the other end.
This is a locator pin for fitting wheels back onto the hubs.
You screw the pin into the hub instead of a bolt, make sure the pin is at the top of the hub or the hole nearest the top.
You then pick up your wheel, and slide the top hole over the pin, which now takes the weight while you press the wheel in at the bottom, and locate your first bolt.
Put in a few more bolts, then remove the pin (the hole in the end takes the screwdriver shaft as a lever in case it's tight).
Put in the last bolts - tighten - drop the car off the jack - torque to the correct setting.
Done!
Hey, I've seen veteran car guys who have no idea what it was for - I guess it's a recent addition to some car tool kits.
Noticed my VW has one, made of plastic, but it has one!
My 69T with "S" Brakes and Fuchs Wheels used ball seat lug nuts.. that were Aluminum/Magnesium..
According to the dealer at the time,, that was the stock setup with the S brakes.
I had to stand over the guy at the tire shop to prevent impact wrenches from being
used and I provided the delrin lined socket to remove them. I finally figured out it was easier/safer to
put teh wheels in my Pickup and haul them to the tire shop.. Less arguing.
I painted mine a few at a time...off each wheel (not driving of course) used RUSTOLEUM silver after wire brushing them...look great, if it lasts a year fine, I'll do them again
Testors silver enamel works great. Goes right over moderate rust and you can paint while on the car. I painted mine about 6 months ago and looks like I did it yesterday. I’m having the wheels pulled on Wednesday for brakes and expect it will be the only reason to reapply.
