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YOUR RESEARCHHope it's not bore score
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area, you will definitely hear the increase in noise
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No successful repair reported for this finding.
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Read evidence and context
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Suspected cause
But for exhaust leaks (or sometimes other external noise) a length of rubber hose 1/4 inch or bigger is the best thing.One end in your ear, the other routed around the suspect area, you will definitely hear the increase in noise when you get close..
Leading evidence: 'area, you will definitely hear the increase in noise' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'area, you will definitely hear the increase in noise' (1 discussions; 0 report identifying it and 1 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Check first' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Replace (2000 miles), no oil consumption, never seen any really
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Suggestion · Original poster
Since last oil change (2000 miles), no oil consumption, never seen any really.
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Suggestion
Higher than expected oil use, ticking louder when hot, bluish-white smoke on start up(occassionally), spitting carbony looking stuff out of tailpipes on first start of day, dark/sooty tailpipes, darker than expected oil when changing, fuel smell in oil when changing, etc...?
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Like Jake says if I didn't know better, I'd say the sound was a collapsed lifter , but the clacking/ticking sound didn't silence itself or go away during that run time.
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Suggestion
Higher than expected oil use, ticking louder when hot, bluish-white smoke on start up(occassionally), spitting carbony looking stuff out of tailpipes on first start of day, dark/sooty tailpipes, darker than expected oil when changing, fuel smell in oil when changing, etc...?
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area, you will definitely hear the increase in noise
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
Identified cause
1
Suspected cause
0
Reported fixes
Read evidence and context
Discussions that suspect a cause
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Suspected cause
But for exhaust leaks (or sometimes other external noise) a length of rubber hose 1/4 inch or bigger is the best thing.One end in your ear, the other routed around the suspect area, you will definitely hear the increase in noise when you get close..
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But I noticed the last couple days, a ticking coming from what sounds like the drivers side cylinders. It seems to go with the engine speed.
There has been no work done to the car lately. New spark plugs and coil packs last July.
Going to get a stethoscope in the AM and see what that sounds like. Try and post a video of it too.
I actually got the harbour freight one for like 55 bucks on sale, it works fine and
I used it to diag a similar problem in my daughters honda..
It was just before the cheaper ones all hit the market on ebay and amazon..
I use it for all kinds of stuff.. Really handy for finding that bolt you dropped
above the engine that never fell out the bottom. LOL
Once you get your bore scope, why not scope both banks? Cylinder #3 and #6. Those are relatively easy to reach. Post back when you have time. Good luck!
Make sue you watch, and become familiar, with Jake's recent YouTubes on this subject. There are about 4. You can even fast-forward to the last 3rd and 4th. They are excellent. GL.
Notice anything else suspicious? Higher than expected oil use, ticking louder when hot, bluish-white smoke on start up(occassionally), spitting carbony looking stuff out of tailpipes on first start of day, dark/sooty tailpipes, darker than expected oil when changing, fuel smell in oil when changing, etc...?
Since last oil change (2000 miles), no oil consumption, never seen any really.
Tick seems to be constant and goes with the speed of engine.
Never see smoke, but then again, cant see that from in the car.
Tailpipes look as they have they entire time I've had it, never overly dirty.
Will have to look at changing oil and see what it looks like currently. I dont recall what if it was dark or not last time. But that was also before the tick.
I havent noticed any other symptoms. Just the sound, maybe its just all the talk here recently that has me thinking beyond the norm.
" I havent noticed any other symptoms. Just the sound, maybe its just all the talk here recently that has me thinking beyond the norm."
videos
I thought same on mine, after watching F6I and getting a borescope, I'm sleeping better.
By this, I assume you mean from the spark plug holes (top of the pistons)? I'd really like to see how Jake (or anyone else, for that matter) does this from the sump. I tried and could only get at #5 (and not all that effectively).
Good! Might be water pump, belt idler pulley, or something driven by the belt or even other stuff in the area that can be pretty benign. The recording might help the experts who reside here.
I'll look again, but I think I've seen all of them. Was not able to get his technique to work for me. I'll certainly try again, the next time I drop the sump plate.
Seeing a more detailed explanation would also be helpful, for me.
Good points. Removing the belt for a short trial might not be a bad option. If the sound persists it will likely be an internal issue. The stethoscope should be helpful, before messing with the belt.
Yes - he says you need to go in through #5 to access #6. What about 1 - 4? Not even sure you can access bank #1 at all.
My plugs looked good when I had them out 2000 miles ago. The bores seemed OK, as well, as seen from the top of the pistons. I'm not losing sleep over this, but I would feel better if I had seen more of the bottom of the bores...
Hard to tell from that - unsighted - sound bite.
You (OP - sorry Strath.. ) have, or were going to get a stethoscope, correct? Let the car idle and try to get a good listen to each injector, as best you can (understanding space is limited). Do the best (subjective) comparison you can from one to the next. Also - verify first, that the noise you were concerned about truly is injector sound (i.e. don't trust everything you read on the internet).
Finally, if you have, or can gain access to the Durametric tool, you can look at data to help you determine if there might be an injector (or other possible) concern.
I'd have to go back and check my thread. There are individual cylinder 'balance' parameters that you can monitor with the Durametric. Balance in quotes because it may be under a different name (efficiency, for example). This is a more advanced step to take. Try the stethoscope check first. Personally, I think there is nothing wrong. (Again, see above - about trust).
I got the stethoscope, but not time to look at the car yet.
I will look at injectors and see if any sound different.
The video portion was useless, just the rear quarter panel shown.
As far as a durametric, without going to an Indy or dealer, no access. Are there other readings that can be pulled from the OBD2 port that would show a potential issue?
There is definitely a tick that was never heard before this weekend.
And this was right after seeing the latest F6I video on bore scoring, right?
Relax. You should be able to tell if one injector sounds different from others. Or otherwise locate the source of the new sound.
And no. There are no parameters of any value from the OBD port without a proper tool. If you don't have a check engine light, there will be no engine (emissions) related codes to collect.
Ha, the only one I watched was part 4 and it was after I started hearing it. I'll see what I can find out.
Wasnt sure if anything that say OBD Fusion is capable of showing would give any indications. There are many things you can monitor, but I wouldnt really know what specifically to look at or what ranges.
Had to look that up. If it is compatible with the communications protocol that Porsche uses, you may get useful data. Someone with more knowledge would be able to help. I would be quite surprised if that would be compatible.
A stethoscope is invaluable for internal noise, water pump, PS, a/c compressor, idler pulley bearings ect. But for exhaust leaks (or sometimes other external noise) a length of rubber hose 1/4 inch or bigger is the best thing.One end in your ear, the other routed around the suspect area, you will definitely hear the increase in noise when you get close..
Like Jake says if I didn't know better, I'd say the sound was a collapsed lifter , but the clacking/ticking sound didn't silence itself or go away during that run time.
It hasn't manifested itself again, but I don't expect it to not return . Maybe then I can get a better idea what the cause was.
It seemed louder than just a normal injector firing. I don't know if there is a fuel injection pressure relief valve or something of that nature ( MB's use this and you usually hear it relieving fuel pressure at idle or when stopped.) that might cause it.
it is a rather painless check out procedure with a borescope camera. It just takes some time getting to bores through plugs, and rotating crank to see as far down cylinder walls as possible. Once I was able to see walls of cylinders and rest of items checked out, (Exhaust soot, smoke , etc ) I didn't drop sump to further check.
If someone watches his video and does most if not all preliminary checks ( I have Durametric, but not all do.), that will determine if you'll need to further investigate issue.
My Oil usage was clouded by my penchant for topping it off when a had a drop in level reading on display. I've also was not measuring it in same exact place every time and giving the oil time to drain back. Very important I feel using display gauge. Dipstick is very consistent, but with new oil it's tougher to see.
I'm not seeing oil usage that I thought I was (less than ounces over hundreds of miles was my initial thought. I also haven't added or topped off oil if it is a tick low on display. Just wait and see if it goes down further. You have plenty of room to spare.
As always your mileage may vary
Mike
Again, doesn't sound fatal to me. If "listening" proves nothing. Pull the belt, start the car for a short time and see if noise is gone. If it is, try to find which rotating item is rough or wobbly. My vote is NOT bore scoring...
I ended up selling the car today.
I decided there was enough things that needed to be done, it wasnt going to be worth the money or effort to put into it.
I did. Not really this issue, but it was a little easier.
The seams on the convertible window tore, interior needed a good amount of refurbishing (seats, doors) and a few other things. I decided before any major mechanical issues arise, I could get out of it quickly. Ended up selling to a dealer that will either auction it or try to fix it up cheaply and make some money from ir. I have a feeling they may end up red with this one.
Going to start looking to get another one myself. Mayne a C4 or Turbo.
Just figured between those 2 main items, itd be an easy $4k+. Possibly throw another $1k at an engine issue soon. Now that's more than a 1/3 of what I paid for the car, not including any work or upgrades.
Enjoyed the car and will be in another soon. Got value, minus estimated costs for top and interior. Slightly lower tha. I posed on craigslist. Easiest sale ever. Posted at 430am, woke up to 10 people wanting to see it. 1st person arrived at 1130am, by noon was headed to get the money and give up title.
You must have great patience and a bore scope smaller than 5.5mm with a very flexible conduit. The one I use in my part 4 bore scoring video came from Amazon for 40 bucks.
getting inside cylinder 6 is not easy from the sump, but it�s the best way to find the issue.
^ Here's my problem. I have the rest covered. I actually bought the same unit (or one just like it) that you recommended. Works well. I'd like to send the signal to a bigger screen, but I am clumsy with the technology.
Thanks for all you do for the community, Jake. You're a good citizen.
Almost forgot - the last audio piece from the OP did actually capture a sound that was consistent with bore scoring. Best of luck going forward. Didn't want to mention it, since I was hoping the stethoscope test would turn-up something else. Would be interesting to know what we really were hearing.
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