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YOUR RESEARCHRebuilding tuning fork arms with poly bushing
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Replace bushings over the winter
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Suggestion
Totally understand, I started replacing bushings over the winter but only only completed the front so car went in for an alignment, will have to go back for another once I get the rear done.
Leading evidence: 'Replace bushings over the winter' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Replace bushings over the winter' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Personally I would get an alignment after replacing any suspension bits as there may be variances in dimensions and/or you could of changed the suspension geometry.
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Suggestion
If items are fixed length and you replace the old with a dimensionally same part, it shouldn't matter.
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Replace bushings over the winter
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Totally understand, I started replacing bushings over the winter but only only completed the front so car went in for an alignment, will have to go back for another once I get the rear done.
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Suggestion
Personally I would get an alignment after replacing any suspension bits as there may be variances in dimensions and/or you could of changed the suspension geometry.
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Suggestion
You can use a paint pen to mark any suspension adjustment points (eccentrics front and rear, top mounts for front struts) to get things back into the same location.
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So the front end of my car was rattling worse than a baby draging a string of bells and I had to do something about it. After reading countless threads I was pretty sure it was a combination of the forward control arms (tuning fork) and the sway bar links. The easy thing to do would have been to just buy new arms, but my plan was to do all 4 corners of my 911 and then my Boxster front as well. At $150 an arm that adds up fast. Anyway a couple of different suppliers offer the control arms with poly bushings instead of the plastic ball inserts. I read quite a few reviews of them and didn’t really find any negatives about them for the street. Tracking them may not be the best choice, but when I find the time to get back on the track I will build a dedicated car for that. Anyway, I managed to also stumble on a supplier that just sells the poly inserts for $38 a pair. However there were no instructions or threads on how to put them in. After a little bit of work I managed to get them in and my front end is as quiet and tight as ever. Next I will do the back end of the car. For those interested in going this way here is how I rebuilt the arms.
1. Pull the arms off the car. This isn't very difficult to do and takes about 10 minutes.
2. Pop off the dusk shields on both sides of the arm.
3. The insert is held on by a large washer that is them pinched into the arm. So you need to grind off the lip. Be careful not to remove too much material.
4.Once you grind off the lip the retaining washer will pop off from a little tap with a hammer on the back side.
5.With the washer out pop out the insert, but now you will see an inside lip on the other side of the arm that will prevent the new bushing from sliding in. Grab your dremel tool and some 60 grit sanding disks. Takes 3-4 disks, but the lip is easily grinded off. make sure it is nice and smooth when done, you can clean it up a bit more with some 100 grit sand paper.
6.Lube up the new bushings and slide them into the arms. You can tap them in with a dead blow hammer if they fight you a bit. Put the center metal bushings in then reinstall in the car. Have a beer, you just saved $250 and your front end is nice a quiet. Total time to do this was maybe 15 minutes per arm to put the bushings in.
Nice job, good write-up! Links to the company that sells the bushings would be nice! I think Powerflex may sell them too? After I did mine (with the EPS tuning forks) I sent my old arms to someone on Rennlist (I don't remember who it was) - he was going to try to do something similar I believe, but I never heard back, so I'm not sure of his results...
Here are the ones I purchased on Amazon
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07NCX2DV4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07NCX2DV4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I think the seller has them on ebay as well.
Nice write up!
You need a special grease for Poly bushings.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/p...mpaign=Brands+
+P&utm_term=4581871113154230&utm_content=GSAPI+5ba2960c4399e
When you switch to poly ,, just remember to inspect them often,, Poly doesn't recover if it gets over compressed,
Greaseable bolts are a good idea so you can avoid the poly squeek.
Functionally they work fine when new, they just don't last as long as a rotating ball in socket does.
I did take this into account when I chose to do this. However I can replace them roughly 8 times before I reach the cost of a pair of replacement arms. At the rate I put miles on my car that should take me out to 2120 pretty easily.
Nice write up but Warehouse33 sells the Meryle version of these control arms for $97 and give a 10% discount for Rennlist members so so $87.30. Is you look at the cost of the poly bushing and the time involved in changing out the bushings I�m not sure you reallly come out ahead. And the poly bushing are more questionable than the OEM style. I have had good luck with the Meryle parts too. Just my perspective��
Its all about what works!
My comment was more for the overall info exchange,,, Some folks don't know,
Common fail at the track especially if the installer didn't properly support the bushings.
In the case of the ones you did the support is good ,, Two piece bushings need a metal liner,
and a washer on both ends to keep the poly from deforming as easy.. For street they are fine,
the Porsche has a nice triangulated suspension, so they are tight even with a softer bushing,
not like cars where the control arm is it...
Here's a link to those Meyle control arm links
https://www.warehouse33auto.com/MEYL...996-341-043-06
I'm also a PowerFlex dealer too, have to contact me to purchase as it's not on the website.
-Jason
Personally I would get an alignment after replacing any suspension bits as there may be variances in dimensions and/or you could of changed the suspension geometry.
If items are fixed length and you replace the old with a dimensionally same part, it shouldn't matter. You can use a paint pen to mark any suspension adjustment points (eccentrics front and rear, top mounts for front struts) to get things back into the same location. Once you're all done, then you can get it realigned. If you mess around with tie rods, it is tricky to get things back into the right place, but you should be able to get it close if you measure before and after. There are lots of home alignment tricks to get you close. Worst case, assuming you get things close to where they were (and torque it all properly), you wear out a set of tires early.
Totally understand, I started replacing bushings over the winter but only only completed the front so car went in for an alignment, will have to go back for another once I get the rear done. Sucks paying twice but saves on tires and you can experiment with different settings. I put adjustable PowerFlex control arm bushing in up front, (gained -0.5* camber) and a more aggressive settings the car handles so much better.
