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What should I look for if buying a 996 Cab?

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YOUR RESEARCHWhat should I look for if buying a 996 Cab?

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Adjust itself

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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster

Unfortunately the exchange rate adjusted itself....

What should I look for if buying a 996 Cab?
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Leading evidence: 'Adjust itself' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Adjust itself' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.

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Replace (little extra cost)

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Suggestion

RMS - is a feature, not a real issue - it's mostly a cosmetic/psychological issue for the owner - people leave them leaking for tens of thousands of miles, then have a new RMS when they need a clutch replacing (little extra cost).

What should I look for if buying a 996 Cab?

Replace already

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Suggestion

So if the engine's been replaced already, then you might be in good shape.

What should I look for if buying a 996 Cab?

Replace clutch since the tranny has

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Suggestion

If it starts to leak, big deal...you can live with it until you need to replace your clutch since the tranny has to come out to get to it.

What should I look for if buying a 996 Cab?

Test conv

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Suggestion

it's winter now, so make sure you think about how to test the conv.

What should I look for if buying a 996 Cab?
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Adjust itself

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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster

Unfortunately the exchange rate adjusted itself....

What should I look for if buying a 996 Cab?

Replace (little extra cost)

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Suggestion

RMS - is a feature, not a real issue - it's mostly a cosmetic/psychological issue for the owner - people leave them leaking for tens of thousands of miles, then have a new RMS when they need a clutch replacing (little extra cost).

What should I look for if buying a 996 Cab?

Replace already

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Suggestion

So if the engine's been replaced already, then you might be in good shape.

What should I look for if buying a 996 Cab?

Replace clutch since the tranny has

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Suggestion

If it starts to leak, big deal...you can live with it until you need to replace your clutch since the tranny has to come out to get to it.

What should I look for if buying a 996 Cab?

Test conv

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Suggestion

it's winter now, so make sure you think about how to test the conv.

What should I look for if buying a 996 Cab?

Test drove it

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Suggestion · Original poster

I test drove it today for about half an hour.

What should I look for if buying a 996 Cab?
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36 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.

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POST 1 / ORIGINAL POSTEROriginal post

I'm looking at a 996 with 60,000 miles on it. I test drove it today for about half an hour. It pulls and it's tight. This car has no warranty. I've heard all kinds of nightmare stories about RMS problems. Should this be a concern of mine at this mileage? I looked underneath and there wasn't even a drop of oil. Thanks,

POST 2Original post

James, remind me to bring you Adrian Streather's book on the 996 to next Saturday's GTG; you can borrow it if you like. It's thicker than an encyclopedia and very informative on the first gen H2O p-cars and will answer all your questions. RMS issues have been blown right out of proportions...without being an expert, I would think that if the RMS is bone dry at 60K, it's going to stay that way. If it starts to leak, big deal...you can live with it until you need to replace your clutch since the tranny has to come out to get to it. The three key things with these cars, like all Porsches, is maintenance, maintenance and maintenance. If all maintenance has been done and documented since day one, and it passes a thorough PPI, buy it and enjoy.

POST 3 / ORIGINAL POSTEROriginal post

Holy crap this is getting exciting! Imagine.. just imagine.. . a 911 with such luxuries as heat, windshield washer fluid, and a transmission that doesn't shift like a tractor.... Don't be hurt, Ruby (current 911), I'm sure you'd blow us away in a drag race.

POST 4 / ORIGINAL POSTEROriginal post

Anyone know what standard options came with the base model? PSM, Traction Control, etc?

POST 5Original post

What model year is the car? '99 - '01 models had 3.4L engines with 295 HP (I think), no glove box and generally less sophisticated interiors '02 - '04 models have 3.6L engines with 320 HP, vario cam plus, e-gas, golve box and nicer interiors.

POST 6 / ORIGINAL POSTEROriginal post

It's a 99 Cab. I'm trying to determine the basic options.... such as... was LSD standard, etc.

POST 7Original post

Quotes source post: 6004387

Hey Hey HEY!!! Thems fightin words! Just cuz I aint got no tooths dont mean I aint a fisticated like thems over yander. (PS, you also get a cute little wing that pops up @ 70 mph... WHEEEE!)

POST 8Original post

You should look for a 2004 40th anniversary car that's already had the RMS fixed. It would be perfect for you. I even know where you can find a great deal on one..... http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforum...d.php?t=464901

POST 9 / ORIGINAL POSTEROriginal post

Wow, thats nice... I need a mileage racker though....

POST 11 / ORIGINAL POSTEROriginal post

I drive a lot for work. Last year I drove 60,000 kms, so I don't want to get anything too "nice" for daily driving purposes.

POST 12Original post

Quotes source post: 6004409

Google it.. word actually exists! Did you really mean it, Tim???

POST 13Original post

Quotes source post: 6004997

Of course it did! Just because I originally mis-spelled it (which is now corrected), doesn't mean I didn't mean it.

POST 14Original post

RMS - is a feature, not a real issue - it's mostly a cosmetic/psychological issue for the owner - people leave them leaking for tens of thousands of miles, then have a new RMS when they need a clutch replacing (little extra cost). Of greater concern for you is the fact that the early M96 blocks, like your '99 have design flaws which can and do lead to engine failure. These include, but are not limited to IMS shear, cracked head due to temperature cycling, Intermix (coolant/oil mix due to porous block), cracked coolant tank due to temperature cycling. So if the engine's been replaced already, then you might be in good shape. Otherwise - buyer beware IMHO. Later years have had modifications to the design to address these issues - so you get more for your money. Of course you'll find a whole bunch of people on here that will say 'my '99 has done x thousand miles, and has never had these issues'. Of course, they are all in that position until something fails...... Or maybe you one of the 'you gotta pay to play' folks ,who keep $14k in the bank in case you need to buy a new engine - there are a few folks here that would like us to believe that they live that credo. Interesting psychology on that one......... Best of luck with the hunt - hope the '99 is cheap!

POST 15Original post

you are all right...the 99 is a terrible car...less sofistimacated ( kind of like a POS Honda--a white one..wink wink)....engine flaws (after a certain mileage the engine will just fall out!! better wear steel toed shoes!!) NO F'ing glove compartment (can you imagine...were the hell do I put my gloves?!??! NOWHERE....so I got blisters and colossus ? don't know how to spell this word? on my hands) I would get myself a Honda (or if you want a glove compartment and more sofistimacation an Acura)!

POST 16Original post

Quotes source post: 6005621

I seem to have struck a few nerves! I wasn't trying to rag on the '99 - '01 P-car, just telling the guy about some of the differences. At least my POS Honda will probably never get a RMS leak!

POST 17Original post

more sofistimacation All in good fun Tim, no offense taken... remember I own the cheapest 996 on the planet (thankfully I paid more for it than it's worth or I would feel really bad )

POST 18Original post

Quotes source post: 6004387

MY00 and MY01 have 300 HP and e-gas.

POST 19Original post

all I can toell you is not to rush into a purchase. I looked around for about a year and came into several good buys. Then settled on the 03-C4 with low miles and to my benefit, the owner was **** about maintenance. I don't know about the Ontario area, but prices for 996's are low. Dealers both independent and franchised are trying to unload them as the prices keep dropping due to the economy. Here is what I have seen: 1999 - $22K 2000 - $23-24K 2001/2002 - 26 - 32K 2003 - $33 - 38K 2004 - $35 - $49K I paid $38K for a pristine 2003 C4 with enough wood inside to start a campfire. Only 36K miles, impecable maint, New Tires, all leather, Xenon, etc. The values are out there. PS: dealer in N. NJ has a 2004 C4S with 42k miles and last time I looked they were asking $43K and would take offers Cheers, Max

POST 20 / ORIGINAL POSTEROriginal post

Quotes source post: 6005820

Wow, those 99s are cheap! Unfortunately the exchange rate adjusted itself.... Prices are still high in Ontario.. .circa $30k+

POST 21Original post

I would like this one....had I waited, it could be mine!! No Affiliation, just happen to see it http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/ctd/919778044.html

POST 22Original post

eEEEEHHHHHhhhhhh Tim..you know I am just kidding....I forgot to mention that at the end of my reply!! I still love you and the Honda.... less everyday because of your ****ty remarks (JUST KIDDING)....

POST 23Original post

AND Tim your honda will never have an RMS leak.....but then again do you really need one!! Isn't Honda Japanese for oozing wound! on wheels!!

POST 24Original post

it's winter now, so make sure you think about how to test the conv. top with plastic window. according to menu, you shouldn't operate the conv. top when temp below 45 otherwise you risking crack the plastic

POST 25Original post

Quotes source post: 6007004

I know you were just kidding!

POST 26Original post

Quotes source post: 6007013

Touche! That is exactly how I feel about it every time I drive it!

POST 27Original post

Quotes source post: 6005088

I was just being facetious and was wondering if anyone fell for it and actually Googled it

POST 28Original post

http://seattle.craigslist.org/est/cto/922948386.html no affiliation... just info for you, looks like what you asked for

POST 29Original post

Quotes source post: 6005621

I have way over 3000 miles of track duty on my 99 w/54K You can stick you're steel toed shoes where they belong DA

POST 31Original post

Quotes source post: 6017026

someone thought you were serious... I had my steel toed boots on so that crap dont effect me none!

POST 32Original post

[Image-only post; no author-written text. Original image references:] https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/popcorn.gif

POST 33Original post

Enjoy the process. As said, the market is "dead." You will do very well, no need to acquire a high mileage vehicle. Contact me if you need any help. Gary

POST 34Original post

Quotes source post: 6005921

I bought my Cab from the same guy who is posting this ad. He's straight-forward and did quite a bit of maintenance on my car after the PPI produced a couple of oil leaks. I like the matching colors on the interior but I absolutely hate the blue LEDs. As for all the rhetoric surrounding engine failures & coolant intermixes...there are literally thousands of people driving cars with an M96 who have never had problems of this nature. One may actually be able to assert about a 95% chance that you won't encounter any of the horror stories.

POST 35Original post

I reccomend 02 or newer, a 99 has to be a great deal !

POST 36Original post

Quotes source post: 6019521

Yea, he seems to get nice cars. I would really like that Aero, but not right now, unless he gave me an insane offer for mine to offset the cost... Nice to hear good stories...

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